Tag Archives: nova scotia

Wednesday 17th September 2014 – I AWOKE THIS MORNING TO AN UNEARTHLY SILENCE

And long after the usual waking-up time too. It seems that the battery in the European phone went flat during the night and so that was that as far as that phone was concerned. However, I couldn’t understand why the Canadian phone didn’t ring at all. Subsequent enquiries revealed that I can’t find it anywhere. I wonder if I have left it at the motel where I stayed the previous evening. It’s just like me to do something like that, isn’t it?

But last night I did manage to wake up last night after crashing out at about 17:00. It was just long enough to cook tea and edit the photos, and then I was off again, flat out once more. I must have been tired yesterday.

parking beach inverness cape breton island nova scotia canada september 2014So having recovered from my exertions, I made myself a nice hot coffee and sat drinking it, looking at the sea for a while. You have to admit that I chose a superb spot for last night.

And I was feeling much better than the weather too. It’s all grey and overcast this morning. There are some right heavy dark clouds and I reckon that we are going to have a rainstorm before we’re much older. There is however a bit of blue sky out to sea. Let’s see if the wind blows it back our way.

I also had to fill up with fuel too. Well, I didn’t, but I’m on a little more than a quarter-tank and I’ve no idea what it might be like for fuel further on along the road. 136.4 cents per litre too – that seems to be the going rate around here. That’s a portent of things to come, isn’t it?

A few miles out of Inverness we turn onto Highway 219 to go around the top of the island. That is the road that I’ve been aiming for. If you think that the route has been picturesque to date, just wait until we’re driving along here.

margaree harbour cape breton island nova scotia canada september 2014This is probably one of the most beautiful views in the Maritimes, or at least it would be if the weather were to brighten up. This is Margaree Harbour, a few miles north of Inverness.

Crossing over the river at the bottom of the hill is a new bridge – I don’t remember this bridge when I was around here in 2003 and I don’t remember what was here in its place.

And here’s a surprise. It’s starting to rain.

harbour grand etang cape breton island nova scotia canada september 2014This is the village of Grand Etang, and its harbour. The coast has plenty of these small harbours, a reminder of the days when everyone earned his living from the sea and there was no road communication between the village and the mainland.

And my wind turbine from 2003 is right behind where I’m standing, and still working too. I still don’t understand why they don’t go in for wind turbines in New Brunswick. It seems totally bizarre to me.

At Cheticamp there was a Tim Horton’s with a reliable internet connection so that I was able to update everything. I contacted Hannah and she contacted the motel from the other night and, sure enough, the Bane of Britain did indeed leave his mobile phone there. Hannah has set off to rescue it.

The place was decked out in advertising for this new Dark Roast coffee blend, and all of the fibre cups were plastered with the advertising. And so Yours Truly asked for a dark roast coffee, only to be told that “we don’t have it yet. The machine hasn’t arrived”.

Just after here we find ourselves on the Cabot Trail and in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. And a whopping $7:40 to drive around it too, even just for the day but she seems to have given me the seniors discount again as I’ve been charged a mere $6:40.

This is where I want to be and I shall have a good time here, especially as the weather has now improved and we are having a beautiful day.

cabot trail highlands national park cape breton island nova scotia canada september 2014You can see the road that i’ll be driving in a few minutes, climbing away over the headlands along the coast.

It’s one of the most beautiful places that I have visited. But just a word of warning. I’m only going to post a couple of photo here out of the hundreds that I took, because there isn’t room for them all.

And I could have taken thousands more had there been a place to park safely.

cabot trail cape breton island nova scotia canada september 2014From the top of French Mountain there’s one of the best views in the whole of Canada – all away along the coast to the tip of Cape Breton Island to Meat Cove, the farthest northernmost point of the island.

And here I fell in with a couple from Rhode Island. We had a very lengthy chat about wind turbines and the like. But I wasn’t impressed with the notes from the Canadian Tourist Board –
“No-one knows who first explored these waters – probably Mikmac and other native cultures fished and hunted here long before Jacques Cartier’s voyage of 1534”.
There was nothing about Cabot. After all, this is called the Cabot Trail and a place just along here is claimed to be his landing site. And why is there nothing about the Norse? Not a single mention. It’s quite depressing.

pleasant bay cape breton island nova scotia canada september 2014A little further along the road is a quite amazing descent into the village of Pleasant Bay. Normally I let the car run down hills under its own steam, but that wasn’t the right course of action to take here. I might have made the first bend but not the second or subsequent.

And the village certainly lived up to its name – I’ll tell you that. But there again everything was stunningly beautiful around here.

collapsed bridge meat cove cape breton island nova scotia canada september 2014We had a slight problem on the way out to Meat Cove. A set of road works that delayed us for quite some considerable time.

It seems that the old bridge has collapsed and a temporary bailey bridge has been installed. If you look carefully, you’ll see the old bridge underneath the current one. Meanwhile, major roadworks are under way to build a more permanent bridge and this is what is holding up all of the traffic. The old bridge clearly wasn’t holding anything up.

meat cove cape breton island nova scotia canada september 2014Out at Meat Cove I stopped to recreate the photo that I took in 2003 but I was amazed at the difference in the scenery over the last 11 years. It’s totally different today.

There were quite a lot of tourists around here too – maybe the camp site had something to do with that, and I was tempted to book myself in here, but I had my eye on another place that looked even more suitable.

But more of this tomorrow.

Tuesday 16th September 2014 – I’VE REACHED THE SEASIDE.

evergreen motel antigonish nova scotia canadaThis motel where I found myself last night would have been really good value (apart from keeping on dropping the internet connection which annoyed me intensely when I was trying to work) but it was not at all the kind of place that I was looking for.

And I had a really bad night’s sleep too. That coffee that I had with Hannah did me no good at all.

st francis xavier university antigonish nova scotia canadaSeeing as it was dark last night after I had left Hannah, I went off this morning for a little wander around the University campus to see what there was to see.

And it seems that apart from being at the most prestigious University in Canada, if not the entire English-speaking world, Hannah is also at probably the most beautiful one as well, because it really is nice and civilised here.

canadian national railway line antigonish nova scotia canadaThere’s a railway line here at Antigonish, which is a surprise as Canada really out-Beechinged Beeching when it came to decimating the railway network.

Judging by the rails it receives plenty of use, but the station doesn’t get any at all which is a tragedy for many people living around here. Canada really was ruthless when it came to gutting its passenger facilities. If it wasn’t for the fact that this is the main line for the oil that’s landed at Port Hawkesbury on Cape Breton Island, this line would have been long gone too.

willimans point antigonish nova scotia canadaFrom here I wander off along the Nova Scotia coast because it certainly is beautiful around here. I have thousands of photos that I took and it’s hard to find just one that would do justice to the view.

This one is as good as any, taken from the end of the road down to Williams Point, just a few miles outside Antigonish. If you’re a fan of the outdoor life, then the coast of Nova Scotia is certainly the place to be.

our lady of grace monastery nova scotia canadaThere’s a town called Monastery along the coast and it is so-called because there’s a monastery here. This is it, a couple of miles outside the town, and it’s called Our Lady of Grace.

It’s not very well-known but I once tried the monastic life, but I didn’t last too long. It was the monotonous diet that did it for me. There were only two monks who worked in the kitchen, the Chip Monk and the Fish Friar.

canso strait cape breton island nova scotia canadaThere’s the Canso Strait just down there at the bottom of the hill and Cape Breton Island is over there on the other side of the strait. That’s our destination for this afternoon and we’ll be there in 10 minutes with a bit of luck, God’s help and a bobby.

The south side of the island isn’t all that interesting apart from the old French fort at Louisbourg, I drove the central road in 2010 and so I’ll be going up along the north west coast.

site troy railway station abandoned railway line canso causeway inverness cape breton island nova scotia canadaWe mentioned the decimated Canadian railway network earlier, and this is my lunch stop at the site of the old Troy railway station.

There used to be a railway line that ran from the Canso Strait to Inverness as there used to be all coal mines out around there and the railway was used to haul away the coal. It opened in 1901 but passenger traffic ceased in 1959 and goods finally ceased in late 1980s although been tottering along on the edge of closure for years. Of course, the mines have all gone too. In fact I can’t think of any coal mine still operating on Cape Breton Island.

view cape breton island north coast cliffs nova scotia canadaComing out of the back end of Port Hood on the old gravel road over the headland, you’ll see why I’ve chosen this particular way round the island. The views from up here are really stunning looking north towards Inverness

And you are lucky that I took this photo. 5 seconds later and I was shrouded in dust from a school bus that roared past me like there as no tomorrow and it was like a Sahara dust storm.


old redundant school bus transformed into pickup west mabou cape breton island nova scotia canadaOne of the “games” that we play on our travels is “101 uses for a redundant school bus”. School buses are only licensed for a certain number of years and so the countryside is littered with abandoned and redundant school buses. It’s interesting to see what people do with them.

Transforming them into pickups is certainly one of the best ideas that I’ve seen.

beach inverness cape breton island nova scotia canadaThe biggest town on this part of the coast is Inverness and it’s quite famous for its wonderful beach. This is what I’ve come here to see, and you can tell that they aren’t wrong about that.

And although it’s not by any means late (despite how dark it looks), my bad night has finally caught up with me. I’ve not been able to find a coffee place and I’m too tired to make one, so I’m going to crash out right here.

Monday 15th September 2014 – ON THE ROAD AGAIN

Next morning I troll off early towards Antigonish. It’s a long way away and I have plenty to do en route.

It’s quite an uneventful drive at least as far as Fredericton where I stop to pick up my purchase from Saturday. And in due course I’ll post a photo of it and tell you all about it.

Back on the road south-eastwards and at a certain moment a few miles south of Fredericton, I’m surprised by three tanks that drive over a bridge across the Trans-Canada Highway. And I don’t mean water tanks or that kind of thing, but proper great big self-propelled armoured machines with long guns. I wonder what’s up with them.

david alward campaign bus smashed window trans canada highway moncton new brunswick canadaJust gone past me is a campaign bus for one of the candidates in the forthcoming elections and if you look very carefully on the nearside you might see something black flapping in the wind. It seems that someone has put out one of his windows, and the driver has covered it over with a black plastic bin liner to keep out the rain, but that’s burst now due to the air pressure as he’s been driving along.

And as we approach Moncton it seems to be brightening up now. We have blue skies and there might even be some sun about to make its appearance. It makes a change from the grey miserable misty morning that we had.

I struck gold in Princess Autos. They are having a sale and I bought an 25-inch power bar for $9:99, a set of 22 spanners, 11 metric and 11 AF, for $12:00, and a tyre pressure gauge for $0:99. An absolute bargain, that all was.

The only downside of this was that they didn’t have a cheap set of sockets to go with the power bar. But these were unbelievable prices.

And at the Salvation Army Thrift Store down the road they gave me a senior citizen’s discount on the CD that I bought. I’m not sure whether to be pleased of humiliated.

And on the Trans-Canada Highway, which is effectively a motorway with dual carriageways, just outside Moncton there’s a railway level crossing. And there’s another one too just a mile or so further on, by the Dieppe and airport turn-off. This isn’t something that you see every day on a motorway. We would have endless amounts of fun with a railway level crossing on the M25 in the UK.

wind turbines wind bent tree fort beausejour tantramar marshes new brunswick nova scotia canadaBob Dylan once sang “You don’t need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows”, and that’s certainly true around here, isn’t it?

I’m at my lunch stop and you can tell that we are at the border between New Brunswick and Nova Scotia because tthere’s a pile of wind turbines down there taking full advantage of this screaming wind.

Where I am is actually in New Brunswick and there’s not a wind turbine in sight. I know that I have a “thing” in favour of wind turbines, owning four myself, but this lack of wind turbines in New Brunswick is just plain absurd.

fort beausejour new brunswick canadaWhere I am is actually at Fort Beausejour and we’ve been here before, haven’t we?

It was freezing cold then in the middle of winter so I didn’t stay there long. And I didn’t stay here long today either as I was in quite a rush – just long enough to take a couple of photos and eat my butties. I’ll have to come back here yet again.

I made it to Antigonish right to the minute and Hannah was bang on time too. We went for a meal and a really good chat and she told me all about her first couple of weeks at University. She’s the first of our family to go to university straight from school by the way, and she’s at St Francis-Xavier University, the best University in Canada if not the English-speaking world. I don’t know about anyone else but I’m intensely proud of her.

The downside of this is that I have left it far too late to find a spec for the night and I’ve ended up in a wickedly-overpriced motel. Still, you can’t have everything.

Thursday 27th February 2014 – THIS IS WHERE …

hotel grain de sable ares gironde france… I spent the night. The “Grain de Sable” in Ares. So called because all of the walls are lined with bottle containing sand from different beaches throughout the world.

A little on the expensive side, but you would be surprised how difficult it is to find any hotel here in this tourist area, never mind one that is open. Camping and chalets and flats seem to be the order of the day.

But you can see what the weather was doing. Cold, wet and miserable. It caught me up during the night. But not as cold, wet and miserable as last night in the mountains of Nova Scotia where I wqs picking up bits of the Swissair flight that blew up over the Atlantic just offshore from Halifax. Must have been a strong jetstream to get aircraft parts onto the mainland, that’s all I can say.

I had a slow, leisurely drive all the way around the bay and to the town of Arcachon. There I was disappointed as it really is a “twee” place. No chance to park as firstly the weather was so bad and secondly, parking is very strictly controlled and it wasn’t easy to see a space, let alone reverse into it seeing as how the streets were so narrow (well, they weren’t – it was just that the roadway was deliberately narrowed so that pedestrians would have more room to walk about, not that it stopped them stepping off the road in front of the traffic without even looking or caring whenever the fancy took them. How was it who once famously said “There are two types of pedestrian – the quick and the dead”?)

phare de cap ferret lighthouse gironde franceI did stop a few miles out of Arcachon because I reckoned that from there I would be able to see the Cap Ferret lighthouse across on the other side of the bay.

So there you are – that’s where I was yesterday afternoon. Round by the lighthouse across the bay.

And you might have noticed that the weather has improved sightly too.

sand dunes pyla sur mer gironde franceAs you come out of the bay and hit the Atlantic coast, the effects of the currents going in one direction and the wind blowing in the opposite direction has created some immense sand dunes, such as this monster dune near Pyla sur Mer. It’s enormous.

I was going to have a close look at it but it’s all fenced off until you come to the car park, which is a “pay to leave” car park with ticket control, automatic barriers and the like. I did a U-turn and drove out of the entrance – I’m not being caught for parking like that.

Next stop was Biscarrosse Plage in Les Landes. Odds-on there being loads of hotels here seeing that this is one of France’s major unsung holiday resorts.

biscarrosse plage les landes france
But why it is unsung is that there are in fact only 5 here (and a couple of enormous camp sites) but none is open. And not only that, there isn’t a single open boulangerie in the whole town.

The beach is closed too, but there’s a reason for that. There’s been a howling gale blowing here for the last month with enormous waves. This area is the neck of the funnel that is the Bay of Biscay and the whole of the Atlantic Ocean is trying to fit into this little coastal strip. There’s nothing out there until the south-eastern seaboard of the USA. IMpressive, what?

So with no hotels, no bakery, no nothing, I drove on and on and now I’m in Mimizan Plage where not only is there a little democratically-priced hotel but also a Morroccan restaurant that has made me a delicious vegan couscous.

Thursday 12th September 2013 – IT WAS THE DRIVING, POUNDING RAIN …

… that awoke me this morning. Things aren’t looking so good for the Festival. Still, the show must go on I suppose.

And no, this isn’t a misprint with me copying from yesterday – it’s merely a carbon copy of what has happened this morning.

However it did clear up enough for me to have a shower and make a coffee, and while I was on the computer Cécile appeared and so she had a guided tour of the Dodge and the campsite on Skype and the webcam.

Into town at lunchtime where the weather caught up with me again and I sought refuge in the library. With a stable internet connection I could do all kinds of things and catch up on a lot of stuff that I had let go for the moment.

lee boy monastery nova scotia harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton 12th September 2013The music this evening started off at 19:30 and I was in the Hoodoo House. First on stage was a guy called LeeBoy from Monastery, near Antigonish in Nova Scotia.

He’d had success in some of these reality TV stuff and songwriting competitions and while I’ve seen better acoustic blues performers, I’ve also seen a lot worse.

He certainly put everything that he had into his performance which, although it might not have been a lot, was nevertheless quite an acceptable warm-up act.

steve strongman harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton 12th September 2013Next up was a three-piece blues band – guitar, bass and drums – the typical blues power trio. At last, the right number of musicians on stage.

This was Steve Strongman from Hamilton Ontario. He’s been on the road for over 20 years, so they say, so I imagine that he’s pretty tired by now and his feet must hurt. They say that he is quite well-known, with a string of blues albums to his name.

His set was absolutely excellent. I really enjoyed this. Shame that he got the gob-iron out halfway through his act but then again I don’t suppose that you can have everything. Why do blues musicians think that they have to have a mouth-organ?

street entertainer fire juggler harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton 12th September 2013There was a half-hour break at the Hoodoo House and so I went for a wander outside. We had the usual street entertainers who have now moved in, seeing as how the streets are now blocked off. This guy was on a plank on a few tin cans juggling with flaming brands.

Yes, it is a flaming brand, not a perishing torch.

I also enountered a couple of Fredericton’s finest. Two women as well, patrolling the streets of the Festival, the first that I’ve seen here.

One of them (for I did ask) told me that there was just 8 on duty tonight patrolling the streets of the city, a Provincial capital at that. I compared that to a music festival in the UK where there would be 800 bobbies patrolling the festival alone, always assuming that the festival would be allowed to go ahead, given the pathetic UK Health and Safety rules.

avett brothers harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton 12th September 2013I’d seen the Avett Brothers, a country and western band from North Carolina, doing a sound check in the Alexander Keith tent earlier and so I went over to see what they were up to, because it sounded interesting.

I don’t think much of Country and Western but if it’s really good then it’s excellent and I quite enjoy it. However this wasn’t as good as it was cracked up to be during the sound check and so I didn’t hang around for too long, just in case they started up with “I Lost Control Of My 18-Wheeler And Ran Over My Dog”.

billy dre and the poor boys harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton 12th September 2013At the Barracks Square, there was a band called Billy Dre and the Poor Boys playing.

They certainly lived up to their name because “Poor” was exactly the word, although there was a spelling mistake in the leader’s name – there was an “I” missing.

This was punk rock at its worst and I do not understand how the organisers of the Festival had let these people (I refuse to use the term “musicians”) onstage at all.

It wasn’t that I didn’t like their music, the singer/guitzrist had in my humble … "humble?" – ed … little technical capability and the bassist even less. I reckoned that this was bringing the Festival into disrepute.

the record company harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton 12th September 2013Back in the Hoodoo House (to which I had fled) The Record Company, from Los Angeles, took the stage.

Another power trio, and another excellent power trio too. While they were not as technically efficient as Steve Strongman and his band, they certainly knew how to move a crowd and their performance was thoroughly enjoyable.

And so heading back to my campsite in the torrential rain, I mused on how I had seen that evening two of the best bands that I had seen for ages, and also musing on the fact that how a band like Billy Dre and the Poor Boys could pack them into a tent whereas Steve Strongman and The Record Company didn’t even have 250 spectators.

And all of this just goes to show that my opinion counts for nothing in moments like these when it comes to personal taste in music.

Wednesday 11th September 2013 – IT WAS THE DRIVING, POUNDING RAIN …

… that awoke me this morning. Things aren’t looking so good for the Festival. Still, the show must go on I suppose.

And leaving the camp site I left behind the old suitcase, as I remembered when I arrived in Fredericton. Ahh well, that’s one less piece of clutter to worry about I suppose. Good job I emptied it.

boat loading ramp Saint John River Fredericton New BrunswickThe weather dramatically improved round about 14:00 and so I went for a walk along the old railway track bed along the southern shore of the Saint John River. Over there on the northern shore is the boat ramp where I had my lunch yesterday and so I took a photo of that as it looked so nice from here.

Back in town, I did a very silly thing.

When I was in Truro in 2010 I went for a wander around in a music shop and noticed a Roland Cube Amp. These little practice amps are about 15 or 20 watts and are battery-powered, running of 6xAA batteries or a 9-volt DC inverter. They cost $289 which isn’t all that much, and so I enquired if there was a bass version – one of these would really suit me back home.

I was told that there was one in the pipeline but it wasn’t available yet.

Anyway, to cut a long story short … "hooray" – ed … here in the music shop was a Roland bass cube amp, previously $319 (inflation over 3 years of course) reduced to a mere $149 in the summer sale. Borrowing a Fender Precision bass, I had a little play.

Now we are even more crowded here in the Dodge. Heaven alone knows what it will be like by the time we get to Woodstock, where we were half a mill … "you’ve done that twice already" – ed.

After finding a library book sale and a military tattoo (spelt correctly of course, this isn’t Maine), I went to listen to the bands. But not without being caught in one of the most trememdous thunderstorms I have ever seen. The lightning was magnificent and one burst of thunder, right over our heads, had everyone on the floor, including me, and we watched the rainstorm roar up the street to engulf us.

stu jazz band harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton 11 september 2013First band up was STU Jazz. 37 of them on the stage, so we are reliably informed, and that is about 34 too many if you ask me for my opinion. Like Mark Knopfler, I don’t give a damn about any trumpet-playing bands, and these weren’t up to all that much, even if they did have a lady bassist.

And while I was busy deleting a pile of photos thinking that I can do better than that, the performance came to an abrupt halt. The hurricane was heading back and the tent was not built to withstand it, neither was the grass floor.

world party british blues band harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton 11 september 2013We all trooped over to the Blues Tent to see World Party, a British blues duo.

They weren’t all that bad at all, and in fact could belt out some really serious blues when they really wanted to, which, unfortunately, wasn’t all that often.

And to prove how small the world has become, in the audience was a guy with a Nick Lowe tee shirt and we had a lengthy discussion about Brinsley Schwartz, a concert of whom I recently played on Radio Anglais, and it turns out that he’s a wine importer and
1 – he knows the Massif Centrale
2 – one of his clients is Simon Cowe, former bassist with LIndisfarne.

jj gray mofro harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton 11 september 2013Headline act was a band from Florida, JJ Grey and Mofro. again, far too many musicians on stage – get rid of the horns and the keyboards would be a good start in my opinion.

And we had to wait until the middle of their set to see the first harmonica. Why can’t we have blues bands without harmonicas?

They were under-rehearsed and over-produced but could still belt out the serious blues every so often and I wish that they would have done more about that.

But then it was time to brave the torrential rainstorm again and, with a bag of chips from the Lebanese take-away, I headed for my camp site at the Mactaquac Provincial Park through the downpour.

Thursday 4th July 2013 – I WAS TOO TIRED …

… to cook tea tonight.

That’s no surprise, though. It was 19:25 (or something like that) the other night, 19:45 last night, and all of 20:40 this evening when I finished.

I’d actually fitted one sheet of plasterboard onto the stud wall, but it has to come off and be refitted as it’s in the wrong place, and I ran out of time and energy.

You are probably wondering why it took so long to fit it. The answer to that is that it’s not as straightforward as I led you to believe yesterday.

Apart from the usual interruptions of the phone and of visitors, first thing that I had to do was to extend the flooring into the bedroom. I’d “overlooked” the fact that I hadn’t refitted the horizontal bracing to the stud wall at ground level.

You may remember that I’d had to raise the level of the shower room floor and so I’d taken up the floor level horizontal bracing. And I hadn’t refitted it. And of course with the higher level of flooring it needed to be reshaped.

Then of course there’s a quick way and there’s a proper way to do all of this and I’ve decided to do it the proper way.

Consequently all of the framework is now on the end wall and the insulation is stapled in place but it isn’t nailed in with the counter-battens yet.

I also still have these two holes to drill in the wall. But it’s all coming together quite nicely right now and we are making progress in leaps and bounds..

Apart from that, you may remember a few weeks ago that I was talking about these Nova Scotia pages that I had half-written.

Since then, I’ve been spending two hours each morning just after breakfast to bring them right up-to-date and this morning I posted the first batch on-line.

have a good read – that should keep you out of mischief for an hour or two.

Saturday 17th September 2011 – I HAVE SAID …

“on many occasions too” – ed … that if I were to live around here, the vehicle that I would choose would be an old Land Rover.

old series land rover keswick new brunswick canadaAnd not just any old Land Rover either. Not a Defender and not a 90 or 110 either but a “series” Land Rover with leaf springs and other prehistoric fittings that I find so attractive.

And sure enough, here we are. A Series Land Rover (I can’t tell if it’s a 2A or a 3 but at a guess I would say that it’s a Series 3) complete with snowplough parked up at the back of someone’s house. A new galvanised chassis underneath that and a little tidying-up of the bodywork and you would have something that would last for 100 years.

burpee drilling keswick new brunswick canadaHere’s an interesting sign. I’ve also found a Burpee Drive and a few other Burpee things, so it might be a common local surname.

My interest in this name is that there was a “Burpee” – in fact, a Pilot Officer Lewis Burpee of the Royal Canadian Air Force who flew Lancaster ED-865 “AJ-S” on Operation Chastise “the Dambusters Raid” and was lost with all of his crew near the Gilze-Rijen night-fighter airfield in the Netherlands

But I’m getting ahead of myself here. There are a couple of garage sales around here and I’ve stocked up on a couple of tools and a couple of books, including one on how to build a typical Canadian wooden building. I’m really making progress here

old burial ground fredericton new brunswick canadaParking is difficult here on Saturdays but I find a place near the Historic Burial Ground of Fredericton. This is where you will find the early pioneer settlers, United Empire Loyalists, civic leaders, visiting provincial dignitaries and the like.

And also the unmarked graves, just in front of me, of British soldiers who died while serving at the barracks in the city between 1784 and 1869

skateboarder queen street fredericton new brunswick canadaI went off into the town to see what was happening. And with Queen Street being closed off to traffic, we have a pile of street entertainers – all kinds of things happening.

One thing was some kind of informal skateboarding competition with teenagers leaping over a few jumps and, a little further down the street, an old car. You can see that there was quite a crowd watching the entertainment, and it certainly was entertaining.

I had a chat with a couple of the skateboarders later and, unfortunately, I can’t find the notes that I took. Did I mention that the batteries went flat in my dictaphone and I had left the spares in the Dodge?

And going all the way back to the Dodge to pick up my spare batteries, I had the shock of my life.

citroen 2CV fredericton new brunswick canadaDespite being the symbol of the trendy hippy-set of Europe in the 1970s and 80s, the 2CV had a dreadful reputation for exhaust emissions and I never expected to see one on the roads in North America.

However a few were actually sold in North America and whatever reached Canada didn’t last long due to the wafer-thin bodywork being destroyed by the amount of salt on the roads in winter. So this is quite a rarity.

stakeboarders queen street fredericton new brunswick canadaI can now carry on with my wandering around the street entertainers down Queen Street and end up with the skateboarders again who seem to have moved on to have a go at leaping over the car that I mentioned earlier.

Many of the skateboarders don’t seem to be able to manage the leap, but credit to them because I wouldn’t want to do it, but this guy here does it in spades, so chapeau to him.

double dutch hutch harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canadaBy now the music has started and I’m drawn to the marquee un the Barracks Square to see what’s going on.

This is someone, or someones, by the name of Double Dutch Hutch who are competing in the Galaxie Rising Stars competition with the prize of playing at an international blues competition in Memphis, Tennessee in the New Year.

george street blues project harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canadaAnother band that is competing in this Galaxie Rising Stars competition is the George Street Blues Project, whom we met the other day … “yesterday, in fact” – ed … in the open air at Officers Square.

Highlight of their show was definitely a spirited rendition of the old William Bell number “Born Under A Bad Sign”, which echoed many of the lyrics written by Lightnin’ Slim in 1954 in “Bad Luck Blues” and made famous by Cream on Wheels Of Fire and which went down well with the crowd.

snooty fox morgan davis geoff arsenault drummer harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canadaHaving seen these before I went off for a wander and there at the back of a dimly-lit “Snooty Fox” I encountered Morgan Davis and Geoff Arsenault.

I had a chat to Morgan afterwards. It appears that he’s originally from Detroit and came to Canada in 1968. Probably too young to have been one of the people who found peace on Canadian rather than Swedish ground, and now he lives in Nova Scotia. And quite right too.

On my way to catch Taj Mahal I ended up chatting to quite a few different people, including a guy who was a sales rep for a Fibre-Optic system. He had quite a keen interest in all kinds of Renewable Energy and in the social situation in the UK – such as it is.

taj mahal harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canadaThis time, armed with a media pass, I could take photos of Taj Mahal, and so I did, much to the chagrin of a security guard who made a spirited grab for my camera until he saw my media pass.

I’ve never seen anyone go so quickly into reverse than I did just then. It was all rather amusing.

taj mahal harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canadaI enjoyed the concert, especially as they played “Good Morning Miss Brown” – an old blues staple that was part of our playlist with “Jack the Ripper” and “Orient Express” in the early 70s.

And I enjoyed his sense of humour too. He played some of his own compositions as well asa few old standards and generally took the mickey out of the audience “I recorded this song when ‘it’s squid-dipping time in Nova Scotia’ was top of the Canadian hit parade”.

7 string acoustic guitar t j wheeler harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canadaNow what do you notice about this acoustic guitar?

That’s right – it’s a seven-string guitar made by Eastman and I’ve never seen one of these before so I went off to have a chat with the musician, TJ Wheeler, after the concert. Apparently most musicians string it to A to use it as a seventh string for chords, but he has it strung to B and uses it to play walking bass notes while he’s playing a “normal” chord.

Not content with playing acoustic guitar and bass at the same time, he can play the kazoo too. I would have been confused a long while before this.

Still, they are all bizarre in New Hampshire, which is where he comes from. And his gob-iron player is Dan Robichaud who tells me that in his day job he’s an educator attached to the First Nation communities in New Brunswick.

thom swift harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canadaNext up was a guitarist called Thom Swift. He played a variety of different guitars, including this interesting 1930 National Steel guitar – and steel is the right word to use, because it is.

It has a built-in speaker in the front that resonates backwards into the body and the sound reverberates around and escapes out of the holes in the front. They were made for public performance in the days before electricity

thom swift harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canadaI quite enjoyed his act, as did the large crowd here in the Hoodoo House, even if he did spend a great deal of his time singing maudlin songs about his mother and his dog.

But isn’t that what the blues is all about? As for me, I regret very much going on the Prozac because I haven’t had the blues for years. I’m going to have to sort out my bass guitar and take up the music again.

rick fines female bassist harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canadaFinal act up on stage at the Hoodoo House tonight was Rick Fines, complete with a lady bassist and I’ll try to track them down too to find out her name, as I missed it (out getting a bag of chips at the Lebanese takeaway down the road) when they came on stage.

I quite enjoyed their act too – quite simple basic blues, but then what do you need more than that as entertainment? It’s possible to overcomplicate your music and play ten notes when one note is much more effective, isn’t it, Chris Squire and Jimi Hendrix?

And so having had a really good day out, and now that I’m thoroughly exhausted, having walked about 100 miles today, I’m off to bed.

Saturday 10th September 2011 – I’M OFF ON MY TRAVELS AGAIN

mars hill windfarm maine usa new brunswick canadaAnd not before time either because if I stay too long in one place I put down roots and that would never do, would it?

And that’s the view behind me – the plains of New Brunswick with the wind farm at Mars Hill over to the right of the photo. And my little share of Canada is on the very extreme right-hand edge of the photo, on the down slope of the mountain.

How happy am I?

highway 630 new brunswick canadaThe road beyond Woodstock is fairly uneventful until I turn off onto Highway 630 and then I’m presented with this road. 58 kilometres of it too and isn’t this just like old times on the Trans-Labrador Highway?

It’s so much better going this way than going by the motorway. I’m not in any particular rush and can take my time, and quite right too. But never mind what might be on the other side of the hill – I can’t even tell what might be just around the bend

highway 4 railway line USA new brunswick canadaI arrive at a junction with Highway 4 which is for some reason or other not on the SatNav. The turning to the left is signposted for the USA so I must be very close to the border, so I’m where I want to be;

As for the railway line, this is probably the line that runs from Saint John to Montreal via the USA and was used quite heavily in the winter when Montreal was frozen up in the days before icebreakers and all of the produce was shipped by rail to Saint John.

bayside ferry wharf terminal sant croix river new brunswick canadaThis is the Bayside wharf and ferry terminal judging by the sign. It’s private property but seeing as it’s open, I go for a wander around but there’s no-one about to ask any questions.

The drive down to the gates is quite secluded and so I’ve pencilled in a little place in the back of my mind in case I can’t find anywhere better to park up for the night. That gap in between those two trailers looks quite inviting

ile sainte croix river maine usaOver there is the Ile de Sainte Croix, Saint Croix Island. It’s significant in that as far as I can tell, it was the first coastal colony of the French, being settled in 1604 (all previous colonies were in the St Lawrence).

Of the 79 colonists, 35 died and so many others were close to death that they all moved away to Port Royal across the Bay of Fundy in Nova Scotia.

Ironically, Champlain described an autopsy that had been performed upon one of the deceased, and when a cemetery was discovered here fairly recently, one of the bodies uncovered had suffered the “injuries” in the post-mortem that were so well-described by Champlain.

And modern scientist, on examining the remains, concluded that most, if not all of the deaths, were due to scurvy

st andrews by night new brunswick canadaNow that I’m within touching distance of St Andrews it won’t do any harm to go for a look around, even if it the sun is setting quite quickly. Still, I can always do my best to take a photo to give you an idea of how it looks.

And I’m pretty disappointed in that there’s a 1920s type of Ford, which is probably an A-type, parked up at the side of the road and it’s too dark to take a photo of it. I hope that it will be there tomorrow.

mysterious red light st andrews new brunswick canadaBut wait a minute – whatever is this?

There’s a red light here up in the sky – in the top right-hand corner of the photo is a steady red light (otherwise it would never have come out in the photo) rather than a flashing red light that you might see from an aeroplane.

I thought that it might be a radio mast – a Loran-C or something like that, but I came back here in the morning and there was nothing that could have been my red light. So it’s a mystery.

And in the absence of a better proposition, I’ve gone back to the wharf and that’s where I’ll be staying the night.

Monday 8th August 2011 – I’ve finished …

… my Halifax pages. You can read them here and find out why I think that Halifax is the most beautiful and interesting city in the whole of North America. You can always add your comments on this blog and let me know your opinion of the place. I’d go and live there if I had the chance.

Anyway, that took most of the day, but I wanted to get it all finished. And that’s not all I did either. I spent a while on the phone sorting out Terry’s windscreen (although we are no further forward) and then getting my French SIM card unblocked. Apparently you can’t use it outside the EU (that’s why I was having so many issues lst year in Canada) unless you tell them and ask them to unblock it.

eric hall renewable energy business signs new brunswick canadaMy Canadian phone number, that one I’ve had all of the issues with, is now up and working, and so I’ve ordered some signs from Vistaprint. They are magnetic and they will fit nicely on the hire car that I will be having.

No harm in a bit of publicity and after all, I’m going there to work. It’s not a holiday.

I couldn’t get yellow and black, would you believe? That’s sad. But I like this layout and even if they are small, they will still stand out, and that’s what it’s all about after all.

I’ve also had notification that my money has been paid into my UK bank account for the sale of Expo – my big apartment in Brussels – and so I’ve had to send a string of letters (snail mail too) to tell people what to do with it. With the stock market in freefall now is the time to invest before it starts to climb back up.

I also managed a couple of hours tidying in the barn, sorting a few things out and putting more stuff on the shelves that I built the other day.

Tomorrow I’m going to bring the radio blog up-to-date and copy all of my music onto my 8GB memory stick to take with me. I’ve done it all on to CDs but I reckon that with battery issues with laptops, some non-moving media will be better.

And then I’m going to do some more work on the guttering

Thursday 28th July 2011 – MAYBE IT WAS …

… the shock of being up and out of bed by 08:00 this morning that did it – I dunno – but I didn’t last long this evening, that’s for sure.

And I don’t know why I was up before the alarm went off but anyway, so I was.

The morning I spent working on my website and in the afternoon I went on the internet and did a huge pile of housekeeping, getting all kinds of stuff ready for my trip to Canada, sending out piles of reminders and the like. But the most important part was actually closing down my electricity account in Brussels. On the phone, as you might expect with it being Belgium, no-one was interested. “Can’t be bothered” is the phrase. But eventually I worked out how to do it on the internet and after much steam and heat, it’s now concluded. Mind you, there is a delay of 6 weeks in bringing things up to date, so I’m told. Only to be expected, I suppose.

But there is something quite sinister about something else. There’s a site on line where you can obtain phone numbers in different countries and have all the calls transferred to another number of your choice. And so I registered a really good Halifax, Nova Scotia, number with them.

And then I had an e-mail ….
Due to some discrepancies on your account 418767, our automated alerting system has placed it on hold. I am very sorry for any inconvenience this interruption in calls may cause. Customer Service will review your account soon, but you can act now and speed up this process.

For fastest return to active service, please email us a high quality image of both the front and back of the credit card used on this account and your government issued ID. Please also email an high quality image of the government issued ID of the credit card holder if the credit card holder is different than the account holder.

… and do you know – I suppose they even get people who do this too. Anyway it’s an American company and the FBI have a decent cybercrime unit and so I made a report to them.

I was still working in the evening too. I’ve bought a big, well, enormous chest of drawers in the IKEA sale the other day and now that’s up here, built, installed and filled with clothes.

It’s no wonder that I crashed out early on.

Tuesday 7th June 2011 – HAVING LEFT DAVE’S …

… last night at something silly, I made it as far as Berwick-on-Tweed where I spent the night.

There’s a car pool place on the edge of town with a couple of discreet corners ideal for having a kip, and ideal for having a few other things too by the looks of it. Next morning, I even found a pair of tights on the ground.

We’ve been here before so we don’t have a photo but it’s a nice clean place with a washroom so there’s everything that you need to hand.

Once I’d organised myself properly I crossed the border into Scotland and headed off down the A1 in the direction of Edinburgh. On the by-pass, I kept my eyes peeled and eventually found the road that I needed.

rosslyn chapel roslin edinburgh scotlandWhere I’ve come to is Rosslyn Chapel, which is situated in the village of … errr … Roslin, south of Edinburgh. The village of Rosslyn is somewhere else – New Zealand or the USA or somewhere.

Everyone will know the story behind Rosslyn Chapel because you’ve all read the Da Vinci Code and/or seen the film, and this is where the action takes place

But it’s not (necessarily) that which has brought me here.

rosslyn chapel roslin edinburgh scotlandAs I said yesterday, something that cropped up in Canada last October was what had brought me here.

There have long been claims that Henry I Sinclair, Earl of Orkney, Baron of Roslin and ancestor of the current owner of the Chapel, had visited North America 100 years before Columbus.

Of course, this is quite possible.

  • He held his title of Earl of Orkney in allegiance to King Haakon VI of Norway, gifted on 2 August 1379.
  • He is known to have been in Norway on many occasions
  • Norway certainly knew of the existence of the old Norse colonies in Greenland
  • In 1347 a boat loaded with timber from “Markland” (almost certainly the North American coast) made an error of navigation and fetched up in Iceland rather than Greenland. This would have inevitably become known to the Norwegians (Iceland was a Norwegian possession at the time)
  • Sinclair was said to be an intrepid seaman known for his curiosity

And from there we move into the realm of speculation.

rosslyn chapel roslin edinburgh scotlandJust because something is quite possible, that is far from saying that it is probable, or even likely.

Many people do however make such a claim and when we were in Nova Scotia last October we came across his alleged landing site. It’s no part of my story to pass any opinion on this. I’m having no part in any argument.

But the fervent supporters of the Sinclair North American landings pointed out that Rosslyn Chapel contains many carvings that can only be plants found only in North America and unknown in Europe until the 16th Century.

rosslyn chapel roslin edinburgh scotlandThey say that seeing as how the Chapel was built in 1456 (which, incidentally is long after Sinclair’s death), it could only be because Sinclair had seen them on his travels.

Why I had come here was to see the carvings and persuade the authorities to allow me to photograph them – permission is not often given.

But I nearly didn’t go in at all now. There have been considerable complaints about the Chapel “cashing in” on the popularity of the Da Vinci Code and when they told me how much the admission would be, I nearly passed out on the spot.

Seeing me standing there open-mouthed, the woman on the cash desk reassured me “but it’s half-price for senior citizens”.

I wasn’t sure whether to thump her or to storm out in disgust but the parsimonist inside me got the better of my emotions. But I’m afraid my ego has touched rock-bottom now and I’m inconsolable.

rosslyn chapel roslin edinburgh scotlandIt’s no wonder that the Chapel is undergoing repair. With the money that they must be raking in, they could cover the place in gold plate.

However, it’s an ill-wind that doesn’t blow anyone any good. I spent quite some time chatting to a tour guide about the Templars and Sinclair and all of this, and the upshot was that I was invited into the office to see the Director.

I imagine that people claiming to be serious visitors have to “pass the test” – something that happened to me in the USA in 1999 when I ended up sitting behind the controls in the cockpit of Lindbergh’s The Spirit of St Louis – or, at least, the famous “Warner Brothers” replica B159.

I was permitted to take a couple of photographs “for private study” and not for publication so unfortunately you can’t see them, and I was allowed to peruse the private papers of the Chapel.

Furthermore, the curator will photocopy all of those that I found interesting and e-mail them to me, and so I certainly had my money’s worth there.

And as for the photos?

  • The Director of the museum told me that people overlook the fact that the interior of the chapel was redesigned in the 1860s and its possible that the designs could date from then. The original plans for the Chapel have never been discovered.
  • Others have said that the designs are imply abstract forms
  • And me? Well, I’ve seen more convincing and realistic maize and pineapple carvings elsewhere

And don’t forget. Sinclair had been to Norway – and doubtless other parts of the Norwegian Empire too. Greenland was part of the Norwegian Empire. Travellers from Greenland had been to both North America and Iceland – which was part of the Norwegian Empire.

No-one – apart from Yours Truly of course – has ever mentioned the possibility that what Sinclair might have seen had been brought back from North America by a Greenlander and Sinclair had seen it elsewhere.

But before we leave the site, let me first remind you of my theory about churches and castles.

rosslyn chapel roslin edinburgh scotlandRegular readers of this rubbish will recall that I’ve drawn your attention … "on many occasions" – ed … to the superb “defensive” site of many churches, such as this one here.

I’ve said … "at great length" – ed … that in my opinion, these sites started out as fortress sites with a small chapel inside the fortress.

As the need for fortresses declined and as the population in the vicinity grew in number, the size of the fortress would decline and the church would become more important

Rosslyn Chapel is actually built on the site of what was formerly a fortified site

And as for the myths and legends? Make up your own mind. There’s been enough nonsense written about this place without me adding to it.

From Roslin I drove all the way back to Hexham to see how Dave was doing with his rewrite of the text for the pages of his website.

Regular readers of this rubbish will recall my magnum opus about Riccarton Junction.

One thing that I was keen to do was to see the junction where the line for Hawick left the Newcastle-Carlisle line and the remains of the famous bridge over the Tyne.

border counties bridge river tyne hexham ukThat’s not too far from Hexham as it happens, and a lovely walk along the banks of the Tyne so with Dave acting as guide and navigator, off we set.

It didn’t take too long to track it down, but unfortunately, all traces of the railway junction have long-been obliterated.

That’s hardly a surprise since the line was closed in 1958.

border counties bridge river tyne hexham ukAfter many vicissitudes we were eventually able to scramble up onto one of the piers where I was able to take several photos of the remains of the piers.

It wasn’t easy to see how they had been built, seeing as they were all swathed in sheaves of debris brought down by the river in spate.

You can imagine the force of the water that can roar down here when you see all of this

border counties bridge river tyne hexham ukAs you might (or might not) know, the death knell for the railway sounded on 6th August 1948, when this part of the country was hit by a devastating storm and torrential rain that lasted for 6 days.

A 7-foot tidal wave of water swept down the River Whiteadder, the River Tweed was recorded as being 17 feet above its usual water level

Much of the railway infrastructure was badly damaged – the East Coast main line between London and Ednburgh was so badly damaged that it took 11 weeks before it could reopen.

The Tyne did not escape and the Border Counties Bridge – which was never a particularly stable bridge, was badly damaged. Engineers affected a temporary repair but this really WAS only temporary and didn’t last too long.

And with the volume of traffic on the railway, which was never substantial, it was decided that it was not cost-effective to rebuild it.

Passenger services were withdrawn in 1956 but some kind of desultory freight service struggled on for a couple of years.

border counties bridge river tyne hexham ukOne thing that I noticed lying scattered around the site were all kinds of remains of cast iron.

Many railway bridges of this period were built out of cast-iron and we’ve seen plenty of remains on our travels.

All of this looks to me very much like what I would expect to see had I been looking for the remains of cast-iron bridge columns.And when I find the time, I’ll tell you how they were assembled

remains of masonry border counties bridge river tyne hexham ukThe rails were removed, the junction was erased, and the bridge was demolished.

And there are still several lumps of masonry lying around that could well have come from the bridge.

This looks pretty much like railway-bridge brickwork to me

Back at Dave’s house we started to proof-read Dave’s text that he had now finished but one thing led to another and with bouncing a few ideas around we ended up totally rewriting it.

Not that I am complaining by any means, but it was 05:30 and broad daylight when I finally left there.

Another task all done and dusted.

Friday 20th May 2011 – Today was a better day.

At least I was up at a reasonable time, for a change and had the usual couple of hours on the web pages. And although I didn’t advance far down the Canso Peninsula I managed to cover about 750 years and three continents, such is the controversy surrounding the alleged voyage of Sir Henry Sinclair to Chedabucto Bay sometime in the late 14th Century.

I carried on with Caliburn and he is now all reassembled and roadworthy, with a nice, clean and tidy cab and almost all the electrics working. You’ve no idea how much junk I took out, and how much I threw away either, but I didn’t find the SatNav, which is a pain. Mind you, a couple of quid, 5 Canadian cents and about 2 Euros made it worthwhile from that point of view. I would rather have the SatNav though.

We went for a run into Pionsat to draw some cash and to go to the Post Office to post Mike’s birthday present but blast it – it’s POETS Day isn’t it? And I missed the post.

Back here I didn’t manage to empty out the back of Caliburn as we had a torrential downpour – 14.5mm of rain fell and that’s a lot. Fed up with this blasted non-working water system, I dismantled it in the pouring rain and cleaned it all out. Now some kind of water is getting through but still nothing like enough and I’ll have to redesign it. I know a way to make it work.

But this weekend I’m really busy and so it won’t be until Monday that I can carry on.

Thursday 19th May 2011 – I’ve not been having a very good day today

I was up at a reasonable time (for a change just recently) and managed a good couple of hours on the Nova Scotia pages (yes, I’ve made it onto the Canadian mainland at last) but then I had to sort out a huge pile of photographs for this house that we visited the other week – the chairman of the local history society has been on to me about them.

This afternoon I finished scrubbing Caliburn’s dashboard and it all looks quite pretty there now, and then I tackled the wiring. And what a mess that was. In the end I ripped all of it out and completely redid it, but in a much-simplified form. I have the two fuse boxes properly fastened in and all of the connections are now inside a sealed plastic box to stop them being pulled out. And now the spare battery charges itself up with the solar panels and the split charge relay like it was supposed to.

I would have finished it too but at about 19:15 (I was still out there working then) we had a terrific thunderstorm, and 5mm of rain fell in minutes. and that was when I noticed that this water filter system STILL isn’t working, and I’ve no idea why. I’m going to strip it down as soon as I finish Caliburn, whenever that might be. And I think a battery is boiling up too judging by the smell. And that s depressing me too.

And in other news, I now have four governments to support .

Tuesday 26th October 2010 – NOW LIZ, WHO READS THIS BLOG …

rainstorm pictou nova scotia canada… saw my photo of Pictou last night and asked me what the place was like and how it looked in broad daylight.

And the answer to that is “no idea”.

I came here the first time in 2003 and it was absolutely p155ing down so I didn’t stay long. And today, as if in keeping with some kind of tradition, it was likewise p155ing it down. And how.

main street pictou nova scotia canadaBut this time I’m made of more sterner stuff and went for a nosey, getting thoroughly drenched in the process.

We’re lucky in that many of the buildings are quite substantial – made of stone, not your usual timber framed stuff. North American urban settlement is famous – or infamous – for being ravaged by fire and these stone buildings will have resisted that quite well.

However, escaping from the ravages caused by human modernism and “progress” is another thing, and Pictou has suffered some from that.

Now for those of you familiar with North American history, you will know that Plymouth Rock in Massachusetts is significant as it was there that the Pilgrim Fathers landed in late 1620 in the Mayflower.

replica hector pictou nova scotia canadaAnd Pictou has a similar kind of significance for Canada as it was here in 1773 that a group of Scots landed in the Hector – a replica of which is on display here – and laid the foundations for Nova Scotia – or New Scotland.

Look at any of the graves of people who were born in this area during the following few years – there are dozens of people called Hector interred there.

And after that it was a drive to Springhill to do something else that I … errrr … overlooked when I was here before.

memorial springhill mining disaster nova scotia canadaI didn’t visit the Anne Murray Museum this time (so I didn’t meet Anne Murray this time like I did the last time) and I didn’t have time to visit the mining museum even though it was open today.

Instead I tracked down the monument to the hundreds of miners who died in the dozens of mining explosions and collapses in the shameful situation that passed for coal-mining here from about 1820 until just a few years ago.

If you know Peggy Seeger’s song Springhill Mining Disaster – made famous by U2 – then that is about one of the explosions here.

mural wall amherst nova scotia canadaNext stop was Amherst to look for something interesting and really I must have been asleep the two times I’ve passed through here and not noticed anything worth photographing.

Apart from the fact that it’s a beautiful sandstone-built town, there’s tons of other stuff that’s well-worth seeing.

I was having health issues both of the times I came here and that’s my excuse anyway.

fort beausejour amherst nova scotia canadaWhen I was here in 2003 I went to visit Fort Beausejour – the second-last bastion of the French army in Canada, not the last one (despite what most history books tell you – that dubious honour belongs to Fort Gaspereaux across the isthmus).

Here they hung on grimly to a toehold at the head of the Bay of Fundy as the French possessions all around them crumbled away into nothing, and eventually they too were swept away with the tide.

fort lawrence amherst nova scotia canadaThe British built a fort – Fort Lawrence – about 5 miles away from Fort Beausejour in order to blockade the latter and so I went in search of that.

It appears that this is in fact the site of the Nova Scotia Tourist Board offices and once I had realised that, it wasn’t all that difficult to track down. It’s not easy to miss all of those flags fluttering away up there.

acadian dyke tantramarre marshes chignecto isthmus nova scotia canadaFrom up on the heights I noticed what looked like early Acadian dykes across the Tantramarre marshes. The Acadians had done their best to drain the marshes and ended up with, what one commentator called “the largest hayfield in the world”.

So I had a wander out across the flats and, lo and behold, indeed they were, complete with a handpainted sign, displaying the Acadian flag. That’s the “Stella Maris” there on the pale blue background.

In the 19th Century, technology began to catch up with human ambition. And one of the ambitions was to make a short-cut across the Chignecto isthmus between the Strait of Northumberland and the Bay of Fundy so that ships would save days of sailing time and all the risks of circumnavigating the Canso Strait.

Someone had the idea of building a ship railway, where ships would sail into a canal and then be loaded onto railway trucks in order to be transported to the other side of the isthmus.

chignecto ship railway canal nova scotia canadaBut just as technology made this a feasible proposition, making larger ships became more feasible too and the ship railway was overwhelmed by events.

Work had actually begun but was soon abandoned. Nevertheless there still remains considerable evidence of the earthworks and I managed to track them down too. This would have been quite an impressive achievement had it been completed, judging by what remains.

nova scotia nouvelle ecosse canadaWhenever I see this sign, I always end up laughing, even though I know that I shouldn’t. Coming from an oppressed minority myself, I can understand the feelings that minorities have about defending themselves and their cultures. But this sign is the kind of thing that brings this policy into disrepute.

I often ask about this sign – what’s the purpose of the “Nouvelle Ecosse”?. I’m always told that Canada has a policy of bilingualism (except in Quebec where their Anglophone minority is oppressed much more than the French minority ever was, but that’s another issue) and so every public sign in English has to be translated into French.

And I always wish that I had a camera handy to photograph their faces when I explain to them that “Nova Scotia” is Latin, not English, and so under the terms of the bilingual policy, there needs to be an English translation.

railway port elgin pivoting bridge new brunswick canadaI’m now in Port Elgin just down the road.

Port Elgin is famous for its hand-cranked (so much for modern technology in the 1890s) pivoting railway bridge that moved so that ships could enter the harbour here.

Just on the edge of the town is not darkness but a motel, and next to the motel are the remains of Fort Gaspereaux. This is where i’ll be staying the night (the motel, not the remains of the fort).

There’s also the Confederation Bridge, the world’s longest bridge across iced-up waters. I saw that in 2003 but taking a photo of that with a compact digital was … errr … interesting so I’m going to do it again.

I hope that it’s still standing – I don’t seem to have much luck with bridges over iced-up waters – and that will be effectively my tourism over. It’s all downhill from here.