Tag Archives: inverness

Sunday 26th July 2026 – TODAY, I HAVE HAD …

… another one of the laziest days that I have ever had, and about time too. I should put my feet up and relax more often, I reckon.

But it wasn’t always going to be like that. I was in bed last night by about 23:15 or so and was asleep quite quickly too. That was despite the howling gale that sprung up during the night

However, I didn’t stay asleep for long. Round about 03:30, I had another one of these dramatic awakenings. This is what I found on the dictaphone later.

Someone shouted out Mae’r papurau’n anghywir – “the papers are incorrect” – and something about me being enwog, which means “famous”. I sat bolt upright at that and I’ve no idea at all what they meant by it.

Whatever was going on there, I have no idea. But it was dramatic enough to give me another one of these strange awakenings.

After that, I couldn’t go back to sleep and round about 06:50, I got up and went to the bathroom. Back in here, I listened to the dictaphone but that dream above was all. Outside, the wind had died down but it was damp as if it had rained through the night. That will make the local farmers happy.

With nothing else to transcribe on the dictaphone, I set about doing other things until Isabelle the Nurse came. She was surprised to find me out of bed, so I explained about my sleeping issues. She didn’t say much, just told me about her two weeks off and how she’d had to go to the doctor for her sinuses, and after she’d finished my legs and feet, she cleared off on the rest of her rounds.

Once she’d gone, I could make breakfast. Porridge, strong black coffee, juice and two of the home-made croissants that I made last weekend. And while I was eating, I was reading some more of A HISTORY OF ARCHITECTURE by Charles Freeman.

In discussing Amr ibn al-As, conqueror of Egypt, and the mosque that he built in celebration, he says "he did not, like Constantine at Rome, or Mahomet at Constantinople, employ an existing building for his new use, and so impress an existing type upon future structures, but erected a new one from the ground in such a manner as might be expected from a horde of invaders animated by the fanatical spirit of their new religion of lust and bloodshed, under a chief whose name is mainly remembered as the destroyer of the noblest library the world had hitherto beheld"

Leaving aside the question of the Inquisition, the Albigensian Crusade, and the Conquistadores in Central and South America for the moment, the Great Library at Alexandria was first burnt by Julius Caesar in 48 BC and secondly, in 272 AD, by the emperor Aurelian. The story of Amr burning the library in 642 AD was not recorded until over five hundred years later, and many scholars, long before Charles Freeman began writing his book, have questioned its authenticity.

Back in here afterwards, I had the notes from yesterday to type, and that took much longer than it ought, mainly due to the number of times I fell asleep while doing it.

And then we had the football. First off was Stranraer v Falkirk. Stranraer are, as regular readers of this rubbish will recall, in the fourth tier and Falkirk are in the first. We weren’t expecting too much and the result, a 3-0 victory to the Bairns, was not unexpected.

However, at times Stranraer slugged it out toe-to-toe, and it was difficult to tell who was the tier-one team. Stranraer can feel quite comfortable with themselves after this.

On the other hand, Greenock Morton put up the usual sad, dismal performance against Inverness, going down 1-0 at home. They’ve lost all four games and failed to score a single goal. And on the evidence of what I’ve seen so far, they could be playing until next weekend, out on the pitch all alone, and they still wouldn’t manage to score a goal.

After a disgusting drink, I had a few more things to do, and they took an age to finish, mainly because I kept on crashing out while I was trying to do them. I must have fallen asleep at least three times, sometimes for as long as an hour. I really don’t know what’s happening to me right now.

And then it was baking time. So refuelled by one of these energy drinks, I tackled the question of home-made bread and home-made fruit bread. It took up most of the late afternoon and early evening, but even so, they turned out very well indeed and I can’t wait to get my teeth into them. They look absolutely delicious.

So right now, I’m going to check the statistics, back up the computer and so on and then go to bed. I have dialysis tomorrow and I wonder what’s going to happen there.
I have a bad feeling about it all.

But before I go, seeing as we have been talking about Greenock Morton’s dismal performances … "well, one of us has" – ed … a reporter from BBC Scotland Sport rang up manager Ian Murray and asked him how he was going to deal with the issues.
"They’ll be coming in for training on Sunday" replied Murray. "I have a load of traffic cones and the players are going to practise dribbling around them all day"
So on Sunday afternoon, the reporter rang back to ask how things were going.
"Dreadful" replied Murray. "At the moment, the cones are leading three-nil"

Wednesday 17th September 2014 – I AWOKE THIS MORNING TO AN UNEARTHLY SILENCE

And long after the usual waking-up time too. It seems that the battery in the European phone went flat during the night and so that was that as far as that phone was concerned. However, I couldn’t understand why the Canadian phone didn’t ring at all. Subsequent enquiries revealed that I can’t find it anywhere. I wonder if I have left it at the motel where I stayed the previous evening. It’s just like me to do something like that, isn’t it?

But last night I did manage to wake up last night after crashing out at about 17:00. It was just long enough to cook tea and edit the photos, and then I was off again, flat out once more. I must have been tired yesterday.

parking beach inverness cape breton island nova scotia canada september 2014So having recovered from my exertions, I made myself a nice hot coffee and sat drinking it, looking at the sea for a while. You have to admit that I chose a superb spot for last night.

And I was feeling much better than the weather too. It’s all grey and overcast this morning. There are some right heavy dark clouds and I reckon that we are going to have a rainstorm before we’re much older. There is however a bit of blue sky out to sea. Let’s see if the wind blows it back our way.

I also had to fill up with fuel too. Well, I didn’t, but I’m on a little more than a quarter-tank and I’ve no idea what it might be like for fuel further on along the road. 136.4 cents per litre too – that seems to be the going rate around here. That’s a portent of things to come, isn’t it?

A few miles out of Inverness we turn onto Highway 219 to go around the top of the island. That is the road that I’ve been aiming for. If you think that the route has been picturesque to date, just wait until we’re driving along here.

margaree harbour cape breton island nova scotia canada september 2014This is probably one of the most beautiful views in the Maritimes, or at least it would be if the weather were to brighten up. This is Margaree Harbour, a few miles north of Inverness.

Crossing over the river at the bottom of the hill is a new bridge – I don’t remember this bridge when I was around here in 2003 and I don’t remember what was here in its place.

And here’s a surprise. It’s starting to rain.

harbour grand etang cape breton island nova scotia canada september 2014This is the village of Grand Etang, and its harbour. The coast has plenty of these small harbours, a reminder of the days when everyone earned his living from the sea and there was no road communication between the village and the mainland.

And my wind turbine from 2003 is right behind where I’m standing, and still working too. I still don’t understand why they don’t go in for wind turbines in New Brunswick. It seems totally bizarre to me.

At Cheticamp there was a Tim Horton’s with a reliable internet connection so that I was able to update everything. I contacted Hannah and she contacted the motel from the other night and, sure enough, the Bane of Britain did indeed leave his mobile phone there. Hannah has set off to rescue it.

The place was decked out in advertising for this new Dark Roast coffee blend, and all of the fibre cups were plastered with the advertising. And so Yours Truly asked for a dark roast coffee, only to be told that “we don’t have it yet. The machine hasn’t arrived”.

Just after here we find ourselves on the Cabot Trail and in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. And a whopping $7:40 to drive around it too, even just for the day but she seems to have given me the seniors discount again as I’ve been charged a mere $6:40.

This is where I want to be and I shall have a good time here, especially as the weather has now improved and we are having a beautiful day.

cabot trail highlands national park cape breton island nova scotia canada september 2014You can see the road that i’ll be driving in a few minutes, climbing away over the headlands along the coast.

It’s one of the most beautiful places that I have visited. But just a word of warning. I’m only going to post a couple of photo here out of the hundreds that I took, because there isn’t room for them all.

And I could have taken thousands more had there been a place to park safely.

cabot trail cape breton island nova scotia canada september 2014From the top of French Mountain there’s one of the best views in the whole of Canada – all away along the coast to the tip of Cape Breton Island to Meat Cove, the farthest northernmost point of the island.

And here I fell in with a couple from Rhode Island. We had a very lengthy chat about wind turbines and the like. But I wasn’t impressed with the notes from the Canadian Tourist Board –
“No-one knows who first explored these waters – probably Mikmac and other native cultures fished and hunted here long before Jacques Cartier’s voyage of 1534”.
There was nothing about Cabot. After all, this is called the Cabot Trail and a place just along here is claimed to be his landing site. And why is there nothing about the Norse? Not a single mention. It’s quite depressing.

pleasant bay cape breton island nova scotia canada september 2014A little further along the road is a quite amazing descent into the village of Pleasant Bay. Normally I let the car run down hills under its own steam, but that wasn’t the right course of action to take here. I might have made the first bend but not the second or subsequent.

And the village certainly lived up to its name – I’ll tell you that. But there again everything was stunningly beautiful around here.

collapsed bridge meat cove cape breton island nova scotia canada september 2014We had a slight problem on the way out to Meat Cove. A set of road works that delayed us for quite some considerable time.

It seems that the old bridge has collapsed and a temporary bailey bridge has been installed. If you look carefully, you’ll see the old bridge underneath the current one. Meanwhile, major roadworks are under way to build a more permanent bridge and this is what is holding up all of the traffic. The old bridge clearly wasn’t holding anything up.

meat cove cape breton island nova scotia canada september 2014Out at Meat Cove I stopped to recreate the photo that I took in 2003 but I was amazed at the difference in the scenery over the last 11 years. It’s totally different today.

There were quite a lot of tourists around here too – maybe the camp site had something to do with that, and I was tempted to book myself in here, but I had my eye on another place that looked even more suitable.

But more of this tomorrow.

Tuesday 16th September 2014 – I’VE REACHED THE SEASIDE.

evergreen motel antigonish nova scotia canadaThis motel where I found myself last night would have been really good value (apart from keeping on dropping the internet connection which annoyed me intensely when I was trying to work) but it was not at all the kind of place that I was looking for.

And I had a really bad night’s sleep too. That coffee that I had with Hannah did me no good at all.

st francis xavier university antigonish nova scotia canadaSeeing as it was dark last night after I had left Hannah, I went off this morning for a little wander around the University campus to see what there was to see.

And it seems that apart from being at the most prestigious University in Canada, if not the entire English-speaking world, Hannah is also at probably the most beautiful one as well, because it really is nice and civilised here.

canadian national railway line antigonish nova scotia canadaThere’s a railway line here at Antigonish, which is a surprise as Canada really out-Beechinged Beeching when it came to decimating the railway network.

Judging by the rails it receives plenty of use, but the station doesn’t get any at all which is a tragedy for many people living around here. Canada really was ruthless when it came to gutting its passenger facilities. If it wasn’t for the fact that this is the main line for the oil that’s landed at Port Hawkesbury on Cape Breton Island, this line would have been long gone too.

willimans point antigonish nova scotia canadaFrom here I wander off along the Nova Scotia coast because it certainly is beautiful around here. I have thousands of photos that I took and it’s hard to find just one that would do justice to the view.

This one is as good as any, taken from the end of the road down to Williams Point, just a few miles outside Antigonish. If you’re a fan of the outdoor life, then the coast of Nova Scotia is certainly the place to be.

our lady of grace monastery nova scotia canadaThere’s a town called Monastery along the coast and it is so-called because there’s a monastery here. This is it, a couple of miles outside the town, and it’s called Our Lady of Grace.

It’s not very well-known but I once tried the monastic life, but I didn’t last too long. It was the monotonous diet that did it for me. There were only two monks who worked in the kitchen, the Chip Monk and the Fish Friar.

canso strait cape breton island nova scotia canadaThere’s the Canso Strait just down there at the bottom of the hill and Cape Breton Island is over there on the other side of the strait. That’s our destination for this afternoon and we’ll be there in 10 minutes with a bit of luck, God’s help and a bobby.

The south side of the island isn’t all that interesting apart from the old French fort at Louisbourg, I drove the central road in 2010 and so I’ll be going up along the north west coast.

site troy railway station abandoned railway line canso causeway inverness cape breton island nova scotia canadaWe mentioned the decimated Canadian railway network earlier, and this is my lunch stop at the site of the old Troy railway station.

There used to be a railway line that ran from the Canso Strait to Inverness as there used to be all coal mines out around there and the railway was used to haul away the coal. It opened in 1901 but passenger traffic ceased in 1959 and goods finally ceased in late 1980s although been tottering along on the edge of closure for years. Of course, the mines have all gone too. In fact I can’t think of any coal mine still operating on Cape Breton Island.

view cape breton island north coast cliffs nova scotia canadaComing out of the back end of Port Hood on the old gravel road over the headland, you’ll see why I’ve chosen this particular way round the island. The views from up here are really stunning looking north towards Inverness

And you are lucky that I took this photo. 5 seconds later and I was shrouded in dust from a school bus that roared past me like there as no tomorrow and it was like a Sahara dust storm.


old redundant school bus transformed into pickup west mabou cape breton island nova scotia canadaOne of the “games” that we play on our travels is “101 uses for a redundant school bus”. School buses are only licensed for a certain number of years and so the countryside is littered with abandoned and redundant school buses. It’s interesting to see what people do with them.

Transforming them into pickups is certainly one of the best ideas that I’ve seen.

beach inverness cape breton island nova scotia canadaThe biggest town on this part of the coast is Inverness and it’s quite famous for its wonderful beach. This is what I’ve come here to see, and you can tell that they aren’t wrong about that.

And although it’s not by any means late (despite how dark it looks), my bad night has finally caught up with me. I’ve not been able to find a coffee place and I’m too tired to make one, so I’m going to crash out right here.

Tuesday 30th August 2011 – DAY ONE OF MY VOYAGE

I’m not sure if this should actually count as Day One because firstly, there wasn’t much of it and secondly, I didn’t actually leave the country. It was however they day that I hit the road (or rather hit the rails) and so for that reason I’ve included it as a fair candidate.

Having said that though, I did actually hit the road rather early. I was all washed up, cleaned up, tidied up (well, sort-of) and on the road for 09:45 because today is the day that Liz and I record the Radio Anglais programmes for the month of September. We did the Radio Tartasse sessions in the morning and then I drove Caliburn down to Liz’s and left him there, piling myself and the baggage into Liz’s voiture for the journey down to Gerzat and the Radio Arverne sessions.

When they were over she heaved me out at the railway station at Riom and that was that. And only a wait of 75 minutes for the train. Good job there’s a coffee machine here.

railway locomotive riom paris gare de lyon  franceThis is the locomotive that pulled my train for Paris Gare de Lyon.

I sat next to a girl on the train up and we had a healthy conversation for at least 10 minutes before we worked out that we were both British. She was from Inverness and a student at St Andrews studying French for Scientists. She was spending a year’s exchange living in the language but she’d been in Aurillac for a month house-and-dog sitting.

Her family lives in the wilds and they have no mains electricity – just solar panels and wind turbines and so we had a good chat about that and I gave her a card.

We had the usual struggle across Paris with my giant suitcase and there has to be a better way to go to the airport than this – hitting the city in the evening rush hour with swarms of people and escalators out of order and miles to walk. I’m going to have to resolve this somehow.

At the airport, I dunno where this blasted shuttle bus has gone to – I have to wait about a year for it to turn up. And then by the time that I’ve sorted out everything at the hotel and gone for a walk, the only restaurant in this village here is closed. It only opens Thursday Friday and Saturday evenings and closes at 21:30. So that’s no use to me.

Nothing to eat tonight then. I hope that the rest of my voyage is better than this.