Tag Archives: buffalo

Monday 20th January 2025 – YET ANOTHER THREE …

… and a half hours under the dialysis machine today, and that might soon be changing. They are talking about increasing the dose to four hours. As I have said before … "and on many occasions too" – ed … we seem to be moving slowly towards a climax and the overall prognosis isn’t that good.

In fact, things must be even more serious that I imagined, because they sent Emilie the Cute Consultant to break the bad news to me. And considering that she has been doing her best to steer clear of my bedside these last few weeks, that must have been some effort.

It was some effort for me to go to bed last night too. It was even later than normal when I finally hauled myself out of my chair and went into the bathroom to prepare for the night. I was definitely not feeling like sleeping and I lacked the motivation and energy to haul myself out of my comfortable chair.

Eventually I managed to make my way into bed and there I lay trying to go to sleep and trying to chase the black thoughts from my mind. And as it happened, I did neither. So there I lay, being tormented, for several hours.

When the alarm sounded I was fast asleep so I must have dropped off at some point. And what an effort it was to haul myself from my bed. It’s a good job that the nurse is coming, for I could quite easily have stayed in bed until I don’t know when.

In the bathroom I had a good wash and shave and even applied the deodorant in case Emilie the Cute Consultant should come to see me, and then went to take my medication.

Back in here I went to listen to what was on the dictaphone but to my dismay there was nothing at all, and that’s really disappointing. As I have said before … "and on many occasions too" – ed … the only excitement that I have these days is what goes on (or comes off, but I should be so lucky) during the night.

Isabelle the nurse came around, her last day for this round. She had a few things to say, but nothing of too much importance. She’s going to spend the week packing for her ski holiday soon and also working on her Carnival float.

After she left I made my breakfast and read MY BOOK.

Our author has spent probably 100 pages attacking the idea that Wissant was the port from which Caesar sailed to Britain (not that it matters much, as the book is about Britain, not Caesar), insulting the people who believe that it might have been, and lampooning the people who have changed their opinion over time.

And here we are, on page 579; with a statement "for I myself once argued that the Portus Itius was at Wissant. But my knowledge was then imperfect.". Not a word about why his knowledge was imperfect, not a word about why he once believed that Wissant had been Caesar’s port, not a word of the factors that he had considered at that time, not a word of why he had rejected them, not a word of criticism of his own ideas and not an apology to those whom he had lampooned for changing their mind.

As I have said before … "and on many occasions too" – ed … I shan’t be sorry to reach the end of this book. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of interesting facts in there but by God! What a struggle it has been to wade through the mass of invective, insult and abuse to find them.

It seems to me that he is working himself up into a crescendo and I wonder how it’s all going to finish.

Back in here I had things to do, like my Welsh homework for example. I like to do half of it in one week and the other half the following week so as to spread it out. But what I’m going to do at some point is to read through all of the homework that I’ve done, and make a dictionary of words that I have already forgotten. As if I don’t have enough work to do.

My cleaner took me once more by surprise. She was late but I’d lost track of time anyway. And we hadn’t even finished when the taxi came for me. There was someone with an appointment at Avranches at 13:00 so these new Securité Sociale rules means that because my trip falls within this 45-minute window, I have to grin and bear it.

Not that I am complaining, because as I have said before … "and on many occasions too" – ed … it’s all free, and this is the only country in the World as far as I am aware where such a service is provided for the likes of me.

One advantage of being there early was that not only was I the first of the afternoon shift to arrive, I was first in bed and consequently first to be plugged in. And strangely, the first pin didn’t hurt at all and the second only marginally so, even if they had to take out the pin and reinsert it.

Having said that though, I began to know more about it as the anaesthetic wore off.

Emilie the Cute Consultant came to see me, and we had an interesting chat. "How are you today, Mr Hall?"
"Very well now that I’ve seen you" I replied. And she had the decency to giggle and blush

So we chatted, all about work though, not one of those intimate personal chats that we had last summer, and she broke the bad news to me. But at least she confirmed that Saturday’s dialysis is no different than any other day so it’s not that which is disrupting my sleeping patterns.

"Would you like me to prescribe a sedative for you" She asked.

It seemed to me that that referred to my earlier comment so I restrained myself, with great difficulty I promise you, from saying something like “what I really need is someone to keep me warm and cosy in bed. When’s your next day off?”. You should be proud of me.

Instead I replied "no thanks". All that I have left these days are my dreams and they seem to be fading right now which is a shame. And never mind restraining myself, it will be other people restraining me if I carry on like this. But ask me if I care.

While we’re on the subject of dreams … "well, one of us is" – ed … I crashed out as usual once the pump started sucking my blood out and went away with the fairies (although I did nothing worthy of any comment from the editor of Aunt Judy’s Magazine)

There I was, in some building in which I’d been before. Someone came to pick me up and when he took me outside I found that he was to take me away on a motorbike. He had left the engine running so I told him that that had been a very dangerous thing to do around here

The building reminded me of somewhere in (I think) either Cleveland or Buffalo "IT WAS BUFFALO" – ed in the USA where I’d passed through on my mega-voyage around North America after having dropped off Kit at her University at Windsor.

And as for motor bikes, we’re either talking about motorcycle taxis again or else it’s to do with crossing the Atlantic on a motor bike, something else that we’ve mentioned recently.

When I’ve been awake, I’ve been tidying up a long-forgotten site on the internet. That all started with a search for someone whose name cropped up there and when I followed it up, I was surprised at how out-of-date this site was. So I did some of it, and there’s plenty more to do.

Don’t you ever become fed up of finding all of these tasks that you need to do that totally distract you from what you were trying to do in the first place?

With starting early, that usually means finishing early. And I was certainly unplugged early. But all of the rest went haywire as the compression burst and we red-washed the entire wall of the Clinic by my bed.

If that wasn’t bad enough, the taxi that came for me had to wait another ten minutes to take someone else too.

So once more I ended up being late home but at least it was the nice female taxi driver, the one with twins at the school here, so we had a nice chat. I hope that she’s the one who takes me to Paris, either her or my favourite lady taxi driver who gives me a running commentary throughout the whole route.

It’s freezing outside again here so I was glad to be indoors again. With about 20 minutes to spare I edited some more of the outstanding radio programme that I should had completely dealt with on Sunday.

Tea tonight was a stuffed pepper with pasta and veg followed by chocolate cake and soya yoghurt. Plenty of stuffing left, but I’ve no idea when I’ll finish it, what with going to hospital in Paris later this week

So now it’s bedtime, ready for my Welsh lesson tomorrow. And hoping that I’ll have pleasant dreams involving Castor, TOTGA or Zero, or Moonchild whom I shall add to the Terrible Three and make a Fearsome Foursome.

But before I go to bed I’ll give you an exclusive scoop, one that you’ll hear nowhere else, on the handover discussion between Trump and Biden in the Whitehouse (and that’s not a spelling mistake, although that will soon change) this afternoon
"You just watch" said Trump. "I’m gonna be a goddam Emperor"
"You can’t do that" said Biden. "An Emperor is someone who rules an Empire, and the USA isn’t an Empire"
"Well in that case" said Trump "I’m gonna be a goddam King"
"You can’t do that either" replied Biden. "A King is someone who rules a Kingdom, and the USA isn’t a Kingdom"
"Actually" continued Biden "with you in the White House, Donald, the USA will be just fine as a country"

Wednesday 7th August 2019 – ANOTHER HECTIC …

… day today.

It started off with yet another Sleep of the Dead and I remember nothing whatever about my night. I must have dictated something at some point because the dictaphone was still on but I remember nothing whatever about it and I’ll be interested to see what I might have said.

The bed was the most comfortable that I have slept in for quite a while (mine at home excepted of course) and the facilities in the room were second to none. The microwave was magnificent.

Only downside was the shower. The hot water was one of those ‘instant heat” arrangements that are either on or off and there’s no midway. With it taking a while to warm up and pass through the heater matrix it was impossible to set it at the right temperature. It was either hot or cold and that was that.

In the end I just washed my hair and rinsed myself off quickly.

On the road and after a photo opportunity for His Nibs I followed the route of the Johnson County War, when the stock growers tried to force the sodbusters off their lands.

One thing that I was planning to do on arrival at kaycee (the site of the famous KC ranch) was to go and visit the “Hole In The Wall”, the legendary hold-out of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid but I looked at the route on an aerial photograph and decided against it. Had I been in Strider I would have gone for it, but not a small hire car with street tyres.

Instead I went to find Fort Reno and luckily I tracked that down without too many problems at all. There was a sign to say where it was but that was about all.

However in the immediate vicinity there was a big flat beaten surface (like a parade ground might be) surrounded by heaps that had all the air of crumbled adobe from decayed western buildings, so that is my guess.

My route from Fort Reno brought me through some beautiful countryside and also through the oilfields of east-central Wyoming, famous for its role in the “Teapot Dome” scandal where a US Government Minister sold the navy’s oil reserve to a friend in exchange for a very large and thick brown envelope.

This road took me through Casper and out past the Sinclair Oil Refinery (a descendant of the oil company involved in the Teapot Dome scandal) and past several historical trail markers to Douglas where I ended up at Fort Fetterman.

When the Army was obliged to pull back from native American lands and abandon its forts there, it built a Bozeman Trail fort on the US side of the North Platte River. This was named Fort Fetterman after the recently deceased soldier about whom we talked the other day.

With it being on US soil, it was never disputed and so was not a stockaded fort like those further north.

A couple of buildings still exist today, having been used as a ranch house and barn after the fort was abandoned, but the rest is just disintegrated adobe around the parade ground.

And it’s just as well that a couple of buildings are still standing because another visitor, the Park ranger and I were caught in the most tremendous thunderstorm and had to seek shelter.

While I was waiting I asked the Ranger about motels. He told me of the Holiday Inn. When I mentioned that I was a budget traveller he tried to tell me about the Best Western. I don’t think t hat, like many Americans, they understand the meaning of the word “budget”. They just go out and get a bigger loan or overdraft.

Now I’m in Douglas in a crummy motel, the Four Winds. It’s the only room in town in my budget and it’s only thanks to the guy at the fort that I had it, so I can’t complain.

he also gave me a booklet on the Oregon and California Trail which I shall be picking up tomorrow sometime.

But I’ve run out of Vitamin B12 drink so I nipped to the Dollar Store, where I overheard this delightful conversation –
Customer – “how much are those cigarettes?”
Assistant – “4 dollars and six cents”
Customer – “how much are two packets?”
Assistant – “errr … let me see … errr 8 dollars and 16 cents!”
And they call this lot the “master race”.

But I’m not exempt. I bought a cheap tin of mushrooms to liven up my soup tonight, only to find that I need a tin opener which I don’t have.

So I’ll hope for another good sleep tonight. I’m winding down now ready to return to Winnipeg by next week end.

Saturday 3rd August 2019 – HERE I AM …

… again, back in the Story Pines Motel or whatever it’s called.

The reason is that there’s a charabanc outing from the town tomorrow and there was a spare seat on it. And as it’s going to places that I would have wanted to visit had I known about them and there’s a guide going too, then include me in!

After all of the messing about last night, it was rather a late night and as a result, something of a struggle for me to rouse myself. I wasn’t in much of a shape to do much for a while so I sat and vegetated.

My breakfast porridge was nice though.

By the time that I had gathered my wits (which doesn’t take long these days what with one thing and another) and had a coffee kindly provided for me by the landlady, I hit the streets.

First on the cards today was a delightful drive down the road a couple of miles to a field at the foot of an escarpment in the Rocky Mountains.

This field is forever immortalised as the site of what became famous as “the Wagon Box Fight”. A group of US soldiers was protecting a gang of woodcutters, who had taken all of the boxes off their conestoga wagons so that they could carry more timber down to the sawmill.

Luckily the officer in charge had had the foresight to arrange the boxes into a kind of defensive corral, because suddenly they were set upon by a band of Native Americans.

The tactics that the natives applied was to incite the soldiers to fire, and then charge before they had time to reload their single-shot muzzle-loaders.

But what they hadn’t realised was that just before the event, the weapons of the soldiers had been replaced with breech-loading repeating rifles. So when they charged, they were met with several other volleys.

A sentry post on a hill a few miles away saw the fight and sent a signal to a relief column which was armed with a mountain howitzer, and they put the native Americans to flight.

Interestingly, the report at the time puts the number of natives killed by the 26 defenders of the wagon boxes as “over 1500”. A later investigation put the number as “no more than 60”.

There was a report that after this incident a more substantial stockade was built a few hundred yards away. And looking carefully, I could make out a trace of what would correspond with an earthen mound in the area where this was said to be.

Next stop was several miles down a dirt track to Fort Phil Kearny, and while I was there we had 5 minutes of rain. The fort was built in 1866 to protect emigrants on the Bozeman Trail north, in defiance of a treaty with the Native Americans. Those latter were not at all happy and in the two years that the fort was operational there were countless conflicts, the most famous of which I’ll talk about later.

The fort was eventually abandoned after just two years and the jubilant natives burnt it to the ground. It was first excavated in the 1960s but a full-scale programme was launched in the 1990s and the entire site has been mapped. Pickets placed in the ground show the outlines of the walls and the buildings and an entrance has been reconstructed.

On that note I headed off to the nearest big town, Buffalo, for fuel and groceries. I found both (or at least, I thought that I had) at the same place but while I was fuelling up, they closed the shop.

So much for that. I ended up at a local Dollar Store and from there the local IGA supermarket.

And more bad news – my Canadian bank card has now ceased to function. I shall have to get onto that.

A beautiful drive through the countryside (as much as I could because Interstate 90 has simply wiped out much of the traditional route) saw me back near Story and heading into the hills on the other side. I found the only shade in Wyoming where I could eat my lunch, and then headed further up to where the old Highway 87 (which replaced the Bozeman Trail) was washed out.

Here on the peak of a hill is a monument to a Lieutenant Fetterman, 78 soldiers and 2 civilian volunteers.

in December of 1866 native Americans had been intimidating a wood supply train and Colonel Carrington, in charge of Fort Phil Kearny, ordered Fetterman to take a detachment to push the natives away, but under no circumstances go beyond a certain ridge, which was the last line of sight from the fort.

The soldiers did as they bid, but here the issue becomes confused. As the soldiers stopped, a group of natives taunted them for their timidity. One of the officers – some say Fetterman but other say Lieutenant Grummond in charge of the cavalry detachment – rose to the bait and pursued the band. So as one shot off, the others followed.

The natives ran away, leading the soldiers into an ambush which was carefully sprung. Evidence from a party that visited the site the next day found evidence of panic and indiscipline as the soldiers fled in chaos, but no-one answered for this because not one of Fetterman’s party remained alive.

it was that heaviest defeat suffered by the US Army at the hands of the natives until Little Big Horn 10 years later

All but one of the bodies had been horribly mutilated. That one, of bugler Metzler, had been covered with a buffalo robe as a mark of respect. His bugle was battered and shapeless, leading to the conclusion that after running out of ammunition, he fought the natives in hand-to-hand combat using his bugle as a weapon, and his bravery earned him the right to respect.

Drenched in sweat and with a thirst that you could photograph after my long walk in the heat of the sun, I headed back through the herd of cows to the car and drove back to my motel.

First thing that I did was to sit on the porch and drink a can of flavoured water. Second thing that I did was to crash out for half an hour.

I managed tea tonight – some vegetable soup with bread. The appetite isn’t quite back but I’m still coping all the same.

And now an early night as I’m off of my outing tomorrow.

Friday 12th November 2010 – ONE THING …

… that I hate these days is airports.

Or, to be more precise, what is laughingly called “airport security”.

Here at the Lester B Pearson airport in Toronto we had the usual tale of harassment and intimidation. Customer service here at these airports is absolutely appalling and of course the reason for this is simple.

Security in the past in Canada has been a pretty minor affair in a country that rarely attracts any attention from the more wilder parts of the world.

But following the events of September 2001 in the USA when it was discovered that some of the perpetrators had crossed over into the USA from Canada, the Septics have leaned heavily on the Canadians in what can only be described as an export of their national paranoia (for make no mistake – that’s what most Americans are suffering from).

With a security organisation that in the past has been negligible, it’s expanded out of all proportion, far too rapidly for its own good and it’s attracted to its ranks some of the worst elements of humanity.

So here in the Canadian Security Service we have people of the type who would have previously been of a more marginal type, the type that would be overlooked in a crowd and passed by in the street.

But now these people have all been given uniforms and badges and a small amount of power and by Jupiter are they going to show the world just how important they have become and exact a cruel revenge for all of the mistreatment that they believe that they have suffered.

And so with a car hire company that tried to stick an excess mileage charge on me despite my contract being clearly “unlimited mileage” and this new self-service check-in thing that doesn’t seem to save any time at all and the only purpose that it serves is to stress out an even more-stressed out group of passengers, I was one very unhappy and very stressed-out bunny.

It didn’t help matters much with the one-in-twenty people being singled out for the full attention, and the person in front of me was number 19.

Ahh well. You can tell that I’ve been having a bad day, can’t you?

mock up steam locomotove fort erie railway museum ontario canada november novembre 2011it all started to go wrong almost as soon as I had left the Motel.

You’ll probably enjoy seeing this mock-up of a steam locomotive here, but I didn’t.

I was hoping to see a real steam locomotive, but as you have probably guessed by now without me having to tell you, the museum is closed for the season, isn’t it?

4-8-4 steam locomotive fort erie railway museum ontario canada november novembre 2011 And it’s not practical for me to go clambering over fences as I have done elsewhere, seeing as we are in an urban area close to the US border.

But I can poke my camera through a gap in the fence like you do … "like SOME of you do" – ed … and photograph locomotive 6218, the pride of the museum.

She’s a 4-8-4 “Northern” type, formerly used by the Canadian National and was built in 1942 – not 1948 by the way, as so many people insist.

buffalo new york usa from fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011With having been disappointed at the Railway Museum, I had to go and find something else to do.

And that included this beautiful ephemeral view of Buffalo away across the water slowly emerging from the morning mist.

There’s nothing wrong with an early-morning start when there are views like this to be had.

fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011The area around the River Niagara was fought over, over and over again during the War of 1812 and so it’s no surprise that there are dozens of defensive works all over the place.

When we were on the other side of the river last month we saw some of the American defences.

Today, we are going to look at some of the British defences

fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011We can start by looking at the fort from which the town takes its name.

When Nouvelle France fell to the British at the end of the Seven years War, a series of forts was constructed along the new boundary as supply depots and in a bid to keep the native tribes under control.

Fort Erie was the first one of these to be built.

fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011The one here today isn’t the first fort at Fort Erie. Construction of this one started in 1803

The original fort was much closer to the river but floods and winter storms damaged the fort on a regular basis.

For this reason, the fort was abandoned and the new fort was built on the present site higher up the bank.

buffalo new york usa viewed from fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011Just a quick glance out of the fort will show you the commanding view that there is over the city of Buffalo across the river in the USA

it goes without saying that during the War of Independence and the War of 1812 this fort was going to be one of the hot spots.

During the latter conflict it changed hands on several occasions.

obelisk soldier graves fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011That obelisk there is of much more recent date however.

When the renovations started on the fort as a part of a “make-work” project during the Depression, they uncovered a mass grave of about 100 British soldiers and a few American troops.

They were all re-interred here and the obelisk was erected over the bodies

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011You may recall from my trip up the other side of the river last month that I ended up wandering through some kind of industrial estate.

No signposts – no nothing. I wasn’t even sure if I was heading in the right direction.

But that’s the place over there. It’s hardly surprising that I was confused as I was driving through it.

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011I stopped to take a few photographs of the place but it was absolutely astonishing.

Whether the wind was in the right direction I really don’t know, but the noise was absolutely deafening today.

And that’s despite the fact that we are still, according to my reckoning, a good 8 or 10 miles away from the actual falls.

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011But I did like my view of the city of Niagara Falls over there today.

We were heading for a beautiful day now that the mist was clearing and at that moment the sky was as blue as the river.

And with a really good zoom lens, I could take a good photo from just here and it came out really well.

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011I’m not going to bore you with a relentless stream of photos of the Falls because you saw them before.

What I can say is that “the principle seems the same. The water still keeps falling over”.

Mind you, it wasn’t me who said that first. I pinched the quote from Sir Winston Churchill, and his Closing the Ring.

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011With it being early November and a weekday, there was no trouble finding a place to park.

A handy place where there was an excellent view of the Falls from the end of the street was good enough for me.

It was even free parking today too. You can’t say fairer than that, can you?

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011Leaving Casey behind me, I went for a walk into town and onto the bridge that connects up the Canadian side to the USA side.

Halfway along the bridge is certainly the best place to appreciate the magnificence that nature can produce znd the clouds of spray just add to the effect.

Shame about the sun, but you can’t have everything of course.

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011I crossed into the Great Satan (through one of the most painless USA border crossings that I have ever encountered) and went for a walk in the park.

You can see the bridge just there, and you can make out the two border posts – one at either end. The USA one is to the right, the Canada one to the left.

And you can also admire the rainbow too. I thought that it was beautiful. Not for nothing is the bridge known as the Rainbow Bridge

niagara falls gorge new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011I nipped back into Canada, picked up Casey, nipped over into the USA to fuel up (as I was running low on fuel and it’s cheaper here)and then nipped back into Canada.

Fully refuelled, we carried on northwards along the gorge.

And it made me wonder how many millions of years it had taken for the Falls to carve out all of this?

robert moses hydro electric power station tiver niagara ontario canada november novembre 2011There are two hydro-electric power plants on the river – one Canadian and one American.

You can’t see the Canadian one – the Sir Adam Beck power plant – because I’m standing on it and there’s nowhere to go on this side of the river to photograph it.

Instead, you’ll have to make do with the American one – the Robert Moses power plant.

It looks fairly new, which indeed it is. The original one that was here, dating from 1886 (and subsequently enlarged) collapsed in 1956.

lewiston queenstown bridge new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011But from my vantage point up here there’s a brief glimpse of the Sir Adam Beck facilities but also a really good view of the Lewiston-Queenstown bridge.

Queues of lorries up there waiting to cross from Canada into the USA. Commercial traffic is forbidden on the Rainbow Bridge so it all must come over here.

I was tempted to go for a stroll but pedestrians aren’t allowed on there. There is however some kind of shuttle-taxi service, so I was told.

lewiston queenstown bridge new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011The bridge itself dates from 1962 and was deliberately built as a replica of the Rainbow Bridge in Niagara Falls.

It’s the third bridge on (or near) the site. The first bridge was destroyed in a gale in 1854 or 1864, depending on which book you read, and the second – the original “Rainbow Bridge” which was moved here, was deemed insufficient for modern traffic.

The arch is 305 metres long and it’s 113 metres above the height of the river.

fort niagara on the lake ontario canada november novembre 2011Tiptoeing through the vinyards, of which there seem to be an extraordinary number around here, we can catch a glimpse of Lake Ontario in the distance.

On the right of the River Niagara is Fort NIagara, which you may remember us visiting last month.

Today though, we’re staying on the Canadian side of the river and going to visit Niagara-On-The-Lake.

fort george lake ontario canada november novembre 2011In actual fact, we aren’t going to Niagara-on-the-Lake but just to the outskirts of the town, because it’s here that we are going to find Fort George.

It goes without saying that the Fort was closed to visitors at this time of the year. No prizes there!

But there were a couple of workmen doing some maintenance in there and they had left the gate open.

fort george lake ontario canada november novembre 2011So Yours Truly took full advantage of that fact – no prizes there either!

And only one glance out of the defences tells you why the fort was built here.

When the British were obliged to leave Fort Niagara and retreat back across the river in 1796, the Americans took control of the fort over there.

fort george lake ontario canada november novembre 2011It was out of the question that the British would concede dominance of the mouth of the Niagara River and so they built the fort here to overlook the river and to overlook the American-occupied fort.

I’d be very tempted to show you what I mean, but unfortunately the vegetation has come between us.

It would be a really nice idea if the guys from Parks Canada or whoever they are took the opportunity to do a little brush-cutting.

fort george lake ontario canada november novembre 2011Built in 1802, the Fort fell to the Americans in May 1813 but was recaptured in December of that year.

At the end of the War it was neglected, but this was another national monument, like Fort Erie, that was restored during the “make-work” campaigns of the late 1930s.

Every year since 1984 a re-enactment of the battle of May 1813 has taken place here.

welland canal lake ontario canada november novembre 2011Next stop (I AM being a busy little beaver!) is the entrance to the Welland Canal.

Shipping on the Great Lakes is very important but the Niagara Falls forms an impenetrable barrier.

Several “narrow canals” were built to by-pass the falls but they wouldn’t be much use for ocean-going shipping. Construction of the present canal began in 1913 and was finally completed in 1935

welland canal lake ontario canada november novembre 2011The canal is just over 43 kilometres long, just over 8 metres deep and about 24.5 metres wide.

The rise in the canal is almost 100 metres – handled by 8 huge locks that can take shipping of 225 metres in length.

Eight locks, I said, and about 3,000 ships use the canal every year. That’s about 8 or 9 every day.

It was fully my intention to wait here as long as it took to see a ship go through a lock, even if it was, as I had been expecting, a 50-tonne coal barge, as is my usual luck.

perelik welland canal lake ontario canada november novembre 2011I didn’t have to wait very long either. And when it did come, I well and truly hit the jackpot, as you can see.

One might even say that my ship really had come in, in fact.

Right on cue, steaming … "dieseling" – ed … out of the mist – because there’s a low fog slowly rolling in – came the Perelik – all 13,887 tonnes of her.

perelik welland canal lake ontario canada november novembre 2011The locks can handle a ship that it 24.5 metres wide so they say, but I’m not quite sure how.

The Perelik is a mere 22 metres wide and there’s not enough room down there to slide a feeler gauge, never mind anything substantial

As for her length though, she’s 142 metres and has a draught of 7 metres, and so there’s a reasonable marge de manoeuvre on that score.

perelik welland canal lake ontario canada november novembre 2011As I watched the Perelik go dieseling off on her merry way, I counted myself very fortunate that I’d seen her navigate the locks.

You’d have to wait a long time to see anything much bigger than she try to push its way along the canal. And not only that, there’s uncertainty as to whether the canal might be here much longer.

There are plans afoot to replace the canal with one that can handle even bigger ships, but that’s a project that is continually being cancelled and it probably won’t see the light of day in our lifetimes.

2030 is the latest date for completion, but construction hasn’t even started yet, so I’m not holding my breath.

la grande hermine jordan harbour ontario canada november novembre 2011Back on the road again and round the edge of the lake towards Toronto, and we don’t go far before we come to yet another juddering halt.

What on earth is this in Jordan Harbour?

Chatting to a couple of the locals, they said that they had lived here for 20 years and this ship was there before then, and they didn’t rightly know.

la grande hermine jordan harbour ontario canada november novembre 2011But they were being somewhat economical with the truth because in reality she’s only been here since 1997.

Depending on what you read or who you talk to, she started life in 1914 as a ferry on the St Lawrence or in 1941 as an icebreaker.

She was transformed into a replica of La Grande Hermine – the ship on which Jacques Cartier came to the St Lawrence in 1535 – in 1991 and wa subsequently purchased by a local businessman to convert into a floating restaurant.

He either ran out of money, or died (or both) and the ship sat here while the legatees decided what to do with it, but a “suspicious fire” (and how many of these have we seen on our travels?) in January 2003 put an end to that.

And here she sits today.

So now I need to put my skates on and get moving towards Toronto. And not only now do I have to contend with the rolling fog that’s enveloping just about everything, I’m stuck in a confiture de circulation. It’s rush hour of course.

I fuelled up the car and drove it down to the airport and my series of confrontations with the locals.

boeing 767 lester b pearson airport toronto ontario canada november novembre 2011But the tourists have the last laugh, as indeed they almost always do.

Here we are on our Boeing 767, seating capacity about 280, and I’ve counted less than 50 people on it. We can all have a row of seats each.

I like to think of myself as a pretty-seasoned traveller and I can withstand the pressure from these people and fight back.

By the look of the empty seats on this aeroplane, others don’t look as if they could be bothered and are talking with their feet

Serves the airlines, the Governments and the Tourist industry right too.

Thursday 11th November 2010 – I’M BACK …

… on the road again and tonight will be my last night in North America.

This morning was rather confused though. According to Casey’s temperature gauge its 14°C outside – yet again!

This gives the lie to this idea about severe winters out here in Freezing Cold Canada doesn’t it? it’s flaming mid-November – what is the weather like in France … "it’s just as " – ed.

Mind you it’s below freezing and its snowing in Labrador.

I have just seen now on the other carriageway of this highway – heading in the direction of Windsor a vehicle that I am absolutely convinced is one of the big Fiat 125s.

If it is, and I cant think what else it could be, it gives a lie to the old story about “Fix It Again, Tony”, doesn’t it?

And quite a bit later somewhere on the road to Niagara Falls I saw an XKE – an E-type Jaguar – heading towards me. This was one of the late-model hard-top coupé version, and when was the last time that I ever saw one of those?

It wasn’t a convertible, though. And when was the last time I saw one of those?

And it was round about this point that I remembered that I had forgotten to take a photograph of the Ambassador Motel where I’ve been staying just now. I’m not doing so well, am I?

My road took me towards Hamilton and the airport there. And, more precisely, the Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum based at the airport.

bristol fairchild bolingbroke canadian warplane heritage museum hamilton ontario canadaThe Museum tells us that its mission is “To acquire, document, preserve and maintain, a complete collection of aircraft that were flown by Canadians and the Canadian military services from the beginning of World War II to the present …”

Such as this Bristol-Fairchild Bolingbroke, which we Europeans know much better as a Bristol Blenheim.

This is a reconnaissance version, as you can tell by its elongated snout.

bristol fairchild bolingbroke canadian warplane heritage museum hamilton ontario canadaWhen I say that this is “a” Bristol-Fairchild Bolingbroke, I’m being somewhat economical with the truth. It is in fact “many” Bristol Bolingbrokes.

When they were taken out of service they were sold off for scrap and the shells were very popular with farmers as chicken coops and the like.

Even today, you can still find them on farms and in scrapyards, and a total of eight of these “wrecks” have gone into assembling this one.

supermarine spitfire Mk 16 canadian warplane heritage museum hamilton ontario canadaNo prizes for guessing what this one is.

It is of course a Supermarine Spitfire, and the cockpit and a few other bits and pieces tell you that it’s a late-model one too.

As I suspected, it is indeed a late-model – a Mark XVI from April 1945 but which never saw actual combat.

douglas dakota dc3 canadian warplane heritage museum hamilton ontario canadaAnother aeroplane in here that never saw combat – although it certainly was old enough to do so, is this one.

Again, no prizes for guessing what this aeroplane is. It’s a Douglas DC3 – the legendary Dakota.

It’s always been a civilian aircraft – not a converted C47 “Skytrain” like so many were. She first flew in 1939 and spent the war years flying for Eastern Airlines.

westland lysander canadian warplane heritage museum hamilton ontario canadaNow here’s an aeroplane that I’ve been looking forward to seeing.

It’s a Westland Lysander and you may be surprised to learn that I’ve never seen one of these “in the flesh” before.

Built for an Army Co-operation role, there was a mix-up over the specifications and it turned out to be totally unsuited to the task.

canadian warplane heritage museum hamilton ontario canadaHowever, its slow speed (stalling at only 65 mph), very short take-off and landing requirement and rather spacious interior soon found the aeroplane ideally suited for another role.

These were the planes that, painted black, used to fly out in the dead of night to land in lonely fields deep in Occupied Europe.

There, they would put down Resistance leaders, bring in supplies and pick up evading or escaping airmen and the like

north american mitchell b25 bomber canadian warplane heritage museum hamilton ontario canadaHere’s another fine example of military aviation – the very-much unsung B25 Mitchell Bomber.

Not very successful against front-line German fighter opposition, their deployment was much more common in the Pacific and Mitchells were the first Allied aeroplanes to drop bombs on mainland Japan.

This one didn’t though – it wasn’t built until 1945 and so missed the war. It was discovered on a airfield in Wilmington, Delaware, in 1975, patched up, and flew in to Hamilton under its own steam for a programme of restoration.

fairey firefly canadian warplane heritage museum hamilton ontario canadaI reckoned that this was a Fairey Fleet Air-Arm machine but wasnt sure quite what it was. Subsequent enquiries revealed that it’s a Fairey Firefly.

These were carrier-based fighters (hence the fold-up wings) and were two-seaters. They carried a navigator because it’s much more difficult to concentrate on navigation over the sea – with no reference points or landmarks that a pilot might immediately recognise.

Although dating from 1943, this one is a “peacetime” 1951 model and comes from Australia.

Loads of other aeroplanes here, but there was only really one that I was interested in seeing of course.

air museum hamilton ontario canada avro lancasterThe museum is the proud possessor of one of the very few remaining Avro Lancasters – and furthermore one of the only three that still flies.

My interest though was from another point of view entirely. I blagged my way in to see the assistant-director of the museum with the express purpose of talking to her about KB882.

Her response was frightening. “Ohhh – we could use it as spares for ours!”

air museum hamilton ontario canada avro lancasterThat is what I call sinister and that will be an even worse fate than that which it is currently experiencing. I rather wish that I hadn’t said anything now.

Don’t forget – KB882 flew over Germany on wartime missions – it has far more history than the one here.

I’m coming round more and more to the conclusion that the only hope for the future for KB882 is that if I put my money where my mouth is and buy it myself.

air museum hamilton ontario canada avro lancaster flight deck controlsI went off to seethe … "is this a typing error or a Freudian slip?" – ed … aeroplane and had a wander around inside it and a sit at the controls.

That has to be one of the highlights of the voyage.

It cheered me up a little – but only a little. I was definitely shocked to the core.

air museum hamilton ontario canada avro lancaster upper gunnerI actually felt quite sorry for the poor people who spent all of their air-time crouched over these guns.

It can’t have been very pleasant for anyone to have sat here behind your twin .303s watching someone with a couple of 0.5mm cannon and a barrage of 8x.303s coming swooping down towards you and knowing that you might as well just throw stones at them for all the good that your defensive armament will do.

air museum hamilton ontario canada avro lancaster tail gunnerbut the position which no-one wanted to occupy – unless he was a complete psycopath – was the rear gunner.

Night-fighters did most of their stalking from the rear and it’s inevitable that the rear of the Lancaster is going to be the first aiming point of the night fighter.

I don’t care what anyone says, the Mark I eyeball was never as good as the Lichtenstein radar carried by the nightfighters and the first warning that the rear gunner received was a fusillade of cannon shells and machine-gun bullets.

air museum hamilton ontario canada avro lancaster bomb bayThe museum was in a hurry to close (have I been here THAT long?) but I had just enough time to stick my head inside the bomb bay.

Just imagine one of Barnes Wallis’ Bouncing Bombs or 10-tonne “Grand Slams” stuck up there!

But I had to go. So much more that I wanted to see too but here they were, throwing me out.

But what a place it is, though. A museum curator who “knows the price of everything but the value of nothing” – that’s a harrowing thought.

Makes me wonder what else have they cut up at that museum that they are keeping quiet about?

And now for my last night in North America, which I’m at Fort Erie.

peace bridge buffalo new york usa fort erie canada Port Erie is just like Windsor – a Canadian city with a big American City just across the River Niagara there.

That’s Buffalo over there, and we’ve been there before – and it seems like 100 years ago now.

But here we have a railway museum, the start of the Welland Canal (that enables ships to by-pass the Niagara Falls) and a few other things too;

peace bridge buffalo new york usa fort erie canadaLike a big bridge – the Peace bridge of 1927 in fact.

Named to celebrate 100 years of peace between the USA and Canada, construction started in 1925 and was opened to the public on 1st June 1927.

At the time, it was the only bridge between Niagara Falls and Minnesota across the Canada-USA border that could take road-going vehicles.

peace bridge buffalo new york usa fort erie canadaAs you admire the colour changes, let me tell you that the bridge is built of 9800 tons of steel – of which 9,000 tons is in the structure and 800 tons as reinforcement in the concrete.

Altogether, it’s 5800 feet long, which is about 1.1 miles in real money and it spans a river where the average current is about 10 mph.

That’s actually quite a speed for a river.

canadian customs facilities peace bridge buffalo new york usa fort erie canadaSome of the most spectacular Canadian customs facilites are here too. That building down there never dates from 1927 – I promise you that!

It incorporates the toll plaza apparently and dates from 2005. There are 14 lanes for cars and special facilities for lorries, of which over 4,000 pass through every day.

As a result, the facilities are often overwhelmed and there is talk of some kind of pre-clearance facility similar to the European TIR idea.

I found a motel at a reasonable price and I put a tin of beans in the slow cooker before I went on my ramble.

On the way back I went to look for some chips to have with them but would you believe … in the whole of this town near where I’m staying where there are three or four fast-food places, there’s not a six of chips in sight.

And so I sulked off for an early night.

I’m off to Toronto where my aeroplane will await me at 20:50. And I’m already depressed about leaving Canada. I shall be inconsolable by the time I get back to Europe.

Wednesday 6th October 2010 – I RECKON THAT I MIGHT JUST STAY IN THE USA FOR GOOD ..

weird road sign derby new york state usa… if I could keep on finding business opportunities such as this one. What a way to earn a living, hey?

But seriously – I can’t live here. Driving through Buffalo earlier today and already in a really bad humour (I’ve had a run-in with another security guard) I came across a woman in tears on the edge of the street, with a baby, and with all her possessions scattered around her. And it was in the driving, streaming rain too.

Apparently the bailiffs had just been.

buffalo new york usaBut Buffalo is a city that is already in my bad books, and has been for quite some time. In 1860-something a steamer launched in 1846 – one of the earliest lakers – sank in Lake Erie in a storm.

A few years ago a couple of divers located it and it was raised from the sea bed and taken to Buffalo for restoration. However the mayor declared it an “eyesore” and called in the scrapmen, who promptly cut up this rare, if not unique historical artefact.

In 1813 the British burnt Buffalo to the ground during one of the American wars, and believe me, I was sorely tempted to make my own re-enaction of that historic event. 

There can’t be any greater eyesore in any city anywhere in the whole world than the sight of a crying woman and her child out in the street in the middle of a rainstorm with nowhere to go and no-one offering any help. 10% of the American working population is out of work, there are thousands of jobs going every day, and there’s no state aid for anyone.

dodge power wagon pennsylvania usaAnd talking of that, just a short while later, I stopped to take a photo of an absolutely ancient Dodge Power Wagon plant mover used as a haulage truck in a boatyard. Fishing from the quay was an old guy. I got talking to him about things.

“Well”, he said “I worked for 29 years as a shopping centre manager and I was laid off in the spring. I don’t suppose I’ll ever work again and I don’t know what I’ll do now. And in my spare time I was a bailiff for the sheriff’s office but I had to give that up too. It was just so distressing turfing all of these people out into the street.

It’s the rich who are causing all of these problems in the USA – it’s high time a few of them were turned out into the street and made to suffer”.

I once heard someone say that the USA is a great place in which to succeed. Indeed it is, but it’s a dreadful place to fail. If the USA has the highest standard of living in the world, then there must be some awfully rich people somewhere well-hidden, because all I ever seem to encounter are the poor. And there are plenty of them!

el patio motel erie pennsylvania usar>After all of that, there isn’t an awful lot to say about my journey. I wasn’t really in the mood for much.

I left my rather expensive motel on the edge of Erie, Pennsylvania, in the rain and the further along the road that I travelled, the more the weather. Just like my humour did, I suppose. It was going to be one of those days.

sea lion barcelona harbour westfield new york state usaBut it’s astonishing, the things that you encounter along the road. At Westfield, near the quaintly-named Barcelona Harbour, I came across the Sea Lion.

It’s a replica of a British 3-masted sailing barque of the late 16th Century and it gives you an idea of the size of the ships that they used to cross the Atlantic in the early days of exploration.

But I can’t think what was going through their minds when they decided to build it, and why they have let ths ship degenerate subsequently into such a poor condition. Seeing that the bay in which the ship is situated is so depressing, perhaps they wanted their barque to be worse than their bight.

strawberry moose new york police usaStrawberry Moose had a good photo opportunity today as well.

I’d stopped at a local Moose Lodge to see if there were any friends and family of His Nibs in the vicinity, but a local copper stopped to find out what was happening. So having given my explanation, he very kindly (and much to my surprise) allowed His Nibs to have his moment of glory.

So let’s hear it for the New York Police!

graycliff derby new york state usaI also stumbled upon Graycliff – one of the houses that was designed by the famous architect Frank Lloyd Wright.It dates from the late 1920s and was built for the Martin family.

The were wealthy entrepreneurs in Buffalo and in fact sponsored Wright in his early days, but were wiped out in the Depression and the house was sold to a Monastic Order who used it as a school.

graycliff derby newyork state usa When the school was closed in the 1990s, there were plans to demolish the place and build a huge housing estate here, but the property was saved by a preservation group (a rare event in the USA)

And famous architect as Frank Lloyd Wright might have been, he designed his house without guttering as it would spoil the aesthetic effect. I suppose that that was much more important than spoiling the foundations and the clothes of the people entering and leaving the property.

It wasn’t actually open when I arrived but I managed to blag my way in for a look around the garden

niagara falls new york state usaNo-one can pass by Buffalo without going for a look at Niagara Falls and once more, Strawberry Moose was in luck as a Tourist Guide/Security Guard agreed to pose in the same photograph as His Nibs.

It’s all quite astonishing, this. All of these officials and dignitaries and so on agreeing to be seen with him. Maybe there is an underlying sense of humour in the USA after all and I have been missing it for all of these years.

niagara falls new york state usaThe view from the Canada Side of the falls is even more impressive – well-worth the walk across the bridge to the other side of the river.

What was even more impressive was that parking for the whole day (had I decided to stay that long) was just $5:00, entry to the park was free, and the border crossing in and out of the USA was relatively painless. I wasn’t expecting anything like that.

niagara falls new york state usaIf you have been following my adventures from previous voyages you will be well-aware that I have been extracting the urine from the United States over its self proclaimed status as “Land of the Free”, because everywhere I have ever been to that has any kind of importance, it has been “Please Prepare Your Admission Money

It’s only right and proper that I record the events surrounding my visit to Niagara Falls.

fort niagara new york state usaAt the head of the river, on Lake Ontario, is Fort Niagara. There’s a British fort on the other side of the river directly opposite and during the various revolutionary wars and so on, there have been a good few battles between the two sides.

There was also a major battle between the British and the French in 1759, and in the grounds was a German Prisoner-of-War camp from World War II

lake ontario toronto canadaSomething right across the lake caught my eye but I couldn’t make out what it was, so I photographed it at the fullest extension of the zoom lens in order to have a play with the image later.

And this is what I saw – it’s the city of Toronto – probably 30 miles or so across the lake and it’s astonishing what a really good camera and lens can capture in the right kind of weather conditions.

You can see that the weather has brightened up – and so have I by now.

Tonight, I’m now in a small town called Ontario, in Upper New York State. Tomorrow I’m going to stay on the south side of the St Lawrence as far as I can until the last bridge across (round about Quebec I reckon) and then head north to Labrador.