Category Archives: welland canal

Friday 12th November 2010 – ONE THING …

… that I hate these days is airports.

Or, to be more precise, what is laughingly called “airport security”.

Here at the Lester B Pearson airport in Toronto we had the usual tale of harassment and intimidation. Customer service here at these airports is absolutely appalling and of course the reason for this is simple.

Security in the past in Canada has been a pretty minor affair in a country that rarely attracts any attention from the more wilder parts of the world.

But following the events of September 2001 in the USA when it was discovered that some of the perpetrators had crossed over into the USA from Canada, the Septics have leaned heavily on the Canadians in what can only be described as an export of their national paranoia (for make no mistake – that’s what most Americans are suffering from).

With a security organisation that in the past has been negligible, it’s expanded out of all proportion, far too rapidly for its own good and it’s attracted to its ranks some of the worst elements of humanity.

So here in the Canadian Security Service we have people of the type who would have previously been of a more marginal type, the type that would be overlooked in a crowd and passed by in the street.

But now these people have all been given uniforms and badges and a small amount of power and by Jupiter are they going to show the world just how important they have become and exact a cruel revenge for all of the mistreatment that they believe that they have suffered.

And so with a car hire company that tried to stick an excess mileage charge on me despite my contract being clearly “unlimited mileage” and this new self-service check-in thing that doesn’t seem to save any time at all and the only purpose that it serves is to stress out an even more-stressed out group of passengers, I was one very unhappy and very stressed-out bunny.

It didn’t help matters much with the one-in-twenty people being singled out for the full attention, and the person in front of me was number 19.

Ahh well. You can tell that I’ve been having a bad day, can’t you?

mock up steam locomotove fort erie railway museum ontario canada november novembre 2011it all started to go wrong almost as soon as I had left the Motel.

You’ll probably enjoy seeing this mock-up of a steam locomotive here, but I didn’t.

I was hoping to see a real steam locomotive, but as you have probably guessed by now without me having to tell you, the museum is closed for the season, isn’t it?

4-8-4 steam locomotive fort erie railway museum ontario canada november novembre 2011 And it’s not practical for me to go clambering over fences as I have done elsewhere, seeing as we are in an urban area close to the US border.

But I can poke my camera through a gap in the fence like you do … "like SOME of you do" – ed … and photograph locomotive 6218, the pride of the museum.

She’s a 4-8-4 “Northern” type, formerly used by the Canadian National and was built in 1942 – not 1948 by the way, as so many people insist.

buffalo new york usa from fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011With having been disappointed at the Railway Museum, I had to go and find something else to do.

And that included this beautiful ephemeral view of Buffalo away across the water slowly emerging from the morning mist.

There’s nothing wrong with an early-morning start when there are views like this to be had.

fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011The area around the River Niagara was fought over, over and over again during the War of 1812 and so it’s no surprise that there are dozens of defensive works all over the place.

When we were on the other side of the river last month we saw some of the American defences.

Today, we are going to look at some of the British defences

fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011We can start by looking at the fort from which the town takes its name.

When Nouvelle France fell to the British at the end of the Seven years War, a series of forts was constructed along the new boundary as supply depots and in a bid to keep the native tribes under control.

Fort Erie was the first one of these to be built.

fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011The one here today isn’t the first fort at Fort Erie. Construction of this one started in 1803

The original fort was much closer to the river but floods and winter storms damaged the fort on a regular basis.

For this reason, the fort was abandoned and the new fort was built on the present site higher up the bank.

buffalo new york usa viewed from fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011Just a quick glance out of the fort will show you the commanding view that there is over the city of Buffalo across the river in the USA

it goes without saying that during the War of Independence and the War of 1812 this fort was going to be one of the hot spots.

During the latter conflict it changed hands on several occasions.

obelisk soldier graves fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011That obelisk there is of much more recent date however.

When the renovations started on the fort as a part of a “make-work” project during the Depression, they uncovered a mass grave of about 100 British soldiers and a few American troops.

They were all re-interred here and the obelisk was erected over the bodies

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011You may recall from my trip up the other side of the river last month that I ended up wandering through some kind of industrial estate.

No signposts – no nothing. I wasn’t even sure if I was heading in the right direction.

But that’s the place over there. It’s hardly surprising that I was confused as I was driving through it.

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011I stopped to take a few photographs of the place but it was absolutely astonishing.

Whether the wind was in the right direction I really don’t know, but the noise was absolutely deafening today.

And that’s despite the fact that we are still, according to my reckoning, a good 8 or 10 miles away from the actual falls.

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011But I did like my view of the city of Niagara Falls over there today.

We were heading for a beautiful day now that the mist was clearing and at that moment the sky was as blue as the river.

And with a really good zoom lens, I could take a good photo from just here and it came out really well.

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011I’m not going to bore you with a relentless stream of photos of the Falls because you saw them before.

What I can say is that “the principle seems the same. The water still keeps falling over”.

Mind you, it wasn’t me who said that first. I pinched the quote from Sir Winston Churchill, and his Closing the Ring.

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011With it being early November and a weekday, there was no trouble finding a place to park.

A handy place where there was an excellent view of the Falls from the end of the street was good enough for me.

It was even free parking today too. You can’t say fairer than that, can you?

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011Leaving Casey behind me, I went for a walk into town and onto the bridge that connects up the Canadian side to the USA side.

Halfway along the bridge is certainly the best place to appreciate the magnificence that nature can produce znd the clouds of spray just add to the effect.

Shame about the sun, but you can’t have everything of course.

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011I crossed into the Great Satan (through one of the most painless USA border crossings that I have ever encountered) and went for a walk in the park.

You can see the bridge just there, and you can make out the two border posts – one at either end. The USA one is to the right, the Canada one to the left.

And you can also admire the rainbow too. I thought that it was beautiful. Not for nothing is the bridge known as the Rainbow Bridge

niagara falls gorge new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011I nipped back into Canada, picked up Casey, nipped over into the USA to fuel up (as I was running low on fuel and it’s cheaper here)and then nipped back into Canada.

Fully refuelled, we carried on northwards along the gorge.

And it made me wonder how many millions of years it had taken for the Falls to carve out all of this?

robert moses hydro electric power station tiver niagara ontario canada november novembre 2011There are two hydro-electric power plants on the river – one Canadian and one American.

You can’t see the Canadian one – the Sir Adam Beck power plant – because I’m standing on it and there’s nowhere to go on this side of the river to photograph it.

Instead, you’ll have to make do with the American one – the Robert Moses power plant.

It looks fairly new, which indeed it is. The original one that was here, dating from 1886 (and subsequently enlarged) collapsed in 1956.

lewiston queenstown bridge new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011But from my vantage point up here there’s a brief glimpse of the Sir Adam Beck facilities but also a really good view of the Lewiston-Queenstown bridge.

Queues of lorries up there waiting to cross from Canada into the USA. Commercial traffic is forbidden on the Rainbow Bridge so it all must come over here.

I was tempted to go for a stroll but pedestrians aren’t allowed on there. There is however some kind of shuttle-taxi service, so I was told.

lewiston queenstown bridge new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011The bridge itself dates from 1962 and was deliberately built as a replica of the Rainbow Bridge in Niagara Falls.

It’s the third bridge on (or near) the site. The first bridge was destroyed in a gale in 1854 or 1864, depending on which book you read, and the second – the original “Rainbow Bridge” which was moved here, was deemed insufficient for modern traffic.

The arch is 305 metres long and it’s 113 metres above the height of the river.

fort niagara on the lake ontario canada november novembre 2011Tiptoeing through the vinyards, of which there seem to be an extraordinary number around here, we can catch a glimpse of Lake Ontario in the distance.

On the right of the River Niagara is Fort NIagara, which you may remember us visiting last month.

Today though, we’re staying on the Canadian side of the river and going to visit Niagara-On-The-Lake.

fort george lake ontario canada november novembre 2011In actual fact, we aren’t going to Niagara-on-the-Lake but just to the outskirts of the town, because it’s here that we are going to find Fort George.

It goes without saying that the Fort was closed to visitors at this time of the year. No prizes there!

But there were a couple of workmen doing some maintenance in there and they had left the gate open.

fort george lake ontario canada november novembre 2011So Yours Truly took full advantage of that fact – no prizes there either!

And only one glance out of the defences tells you why the fort was built here.

When the British were obliged to leave Fort Niagara and retreat back across the river in 1796, the Americans took control of the fort over there.

fort george lake ontario canada november novembre 2011It was out of the question that the British would concede dominance of the mouth of the Niagara River and so they built the fort here to overlook the river and to overlook the American-occupied fort.

I’d be very tempted to show you what I mean, but unfortunately the vegetation has come between us.

It would be a really nice idea if the guys from Parks Canada or whoever they are took the opportunity to do a little brush-cutting.

fort george lake ontario canada november novembre 2011Built in 1802, the Fort fell to the Americans in May 1813 but was recaptured in December of that year.

At the end of the War it was neglected, but this was another national monument, like Fort Erie, that was restored during the “make-work” campaigns of the late 1930s.

Every year since 1984 a re-enactment of the battle of May 1813 has taken place here.

welland canal lake ontario canada november novembre 2011Next stop (I AM being a busy little beaver!) is the entrance to the Welland Canal.

Shipping on the Great Lakes is very important but the Niagara Falls forms an impenetrable barrier.

Several “narrow canals” were built to by-pass the falls but they wouldn’t be much use for ocean-going shipping. Construction of the present canal began in 1913 and was finally completed in 1935

welland canal lake ontario canada november novembre 2011The canal is just over 43 kilometres long, just over 8 metres deep and about 24.5 metres wide.

The rise in the canal is almost 100 metres – handled by 8 huge locks that can take shipping of 225 metres in length.

Eight locks, I said, and about 3,000 ships use the canal every year. That’s about 8 or 9 every day.

It was fully my intention to wait here as long as it took to see a ship go through a lock, even if it was, as I had been expecting, a 50-tonne coal barge, as is my usual luck.

perelik welland canal lake ontario canada november novembre 2011I didn’t have to wait very long either. And when it did come, I well and truly hit the jackpot, as you can see.

One might even say that my ship really had come in, in fact.

Right on cue, steaming … "dieseling" – ed … out of the mist – because there’s a low fog slowly rolling in – came the Perelik – all 13,887 tonnes of her.

perelik welland canal lake ontario canada november novembre 2011The locks can handle a ship that it 24.5 metres wide so they say, but I’m not quite sure how.

The Perelik is a mere 22 metres wide and there’s not enough room down there to slide a feeler gauge, never mind anything substantial

As for her length though, she’s 142 metres and has a draught of 7 metres, and so there’s a reasonable marge de manoeuvre on that score.

perelik welland canal lake ontario canada november novembre 2011As I watched the Perelik go dieseling off on her merry way, I counted myself very fortunate that I’d seen her navigate the locks.

You’d have to wait a long time to see anything much bigger than she try to push its way along the canal. And not only that, there’s uncertainty as to whether the canal might be here much longer.

There are plans afoot to replace the canal with one that can handle even bigger ships, but that’s a project that is continually being cancelled and it probably won’t see the light of day in our lifetimes.

2030 is the latest date for completion, but construction hasn’t even started yet, so I’m not holding my breath.

la grande hermine jordan harbour ontario canada november novembre 2011Back on the road again and round the edge of the lake towards Toronto, and we don’t go far before we come to yet another juddering halt.

What on earth is this in Jordan Harbour?

Chatting to a couple of the locals, they said that they had lived here for 20 years and this ship was there before then, and they didn’t rightly know.

la grande hermine jordan harbour ontario canada november novembre 2011But they were being somewhat economical with the truth because in reality she’s only been here since 1997.

Depending on what you read or who you talk to, she started life in 1914 as a ferry on the St Lawrence or in 1941 as an icebreaker.

She was transformed into a replica of La Grande Hermine – the ship on which Jacques Cartier came to the St Lawrence in 1535 – in 1991 and wa subsequently purchased by a local businessman to convert into a floating restaurant.

He either ran out of money, or died (or both) and the ship sat here while the legatees decided what to do with it, but a “suspicious fire” (and how many of these have we seen on our travels?) in January 2003 put an end to that.

And here she sits today.

So now I need to put my skates on and get moving towards Toronto. And not only now do I have to contend with the rolling fog that’s enveloping just about everything, I’m stuck in a confiture de circulation. It’s rush hour of course.

I fuelled up the car and drove it down to the airport and my series of confrontations with the locals.

boeing 767 lester b pearson airport toronto ontario canada november novembre 2011But the tourists have the last laugh, as indeed they almost always do.

Here we are on our Boeing 767, seating capacity about 280, and I’ve counted less than 50 people on it. We can all have a row of seats each.

I like to think of myself as a pretty-seasoned traveller and I can withstand the pressure from these people and fight back.

By the look of the empty seats on this aeroplane, others don’t look as if they could be bothered and are talking with their feet

Serves the airlines, the Governments and the Tourist industry right too.

Thursday 11th November 2010 – I’M BACK …

… on the road again and tonight will be my last night in North America.

This morning was rather confused though. According to Casey’s temperature gauge its 14°C outside – yet again!

This gives the lie to this idea about severe winters out here in Freezing Cold Canada doesn’t it? it’s flaming mid-November – what is the weather like in France … "it’s just as " – ed.

Mind you it’s below freezing and its snowing in Labrador.

I have just seen now on the other carriageway of this highway – heading in the direction of Windsor a vehicle that I am absolutely convinced is one of the big Fiat 125s.

If it is, and I cant think what else it could be, it gives a lie to the old story about “Fix It Again, Tony”, doesn’t it?

And quite a bit later somewhere on the road to Niagara Falls I saw an XKE – an E-type Jaguar – heading towards me. This was one of the late-model hard-top coupé version, and when was the last time that I ever saw one of those?

It wasn’t a convertible, though. And when was the last time I saw one of those?

And it was round about this point that I remembered that I had forgotten to take a photograph of the Ambassador Motel where I’ve been staying just now. I’m not doing so well, am I?

My road took me towards Hamilton and the airport there. And, more precisely, the Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum based at the airport.

bristol fairchild bolingbroke canadian warplane heritage museum hamilton ontario canadaThe Museum tells us that its mission is “To acquire, document, preserve and maintain, a complete collection of aircraft that were flown by Canadians and the Canadian military services from the beginning of World War II to the present …”

Such as this Bristol-Fairchild Bolingbroke, which we Europeans know much better as a Bristol Blenheim.

This is a reconnaissance version, as you can tell by its elongated snout.

bristol fairchild bolingbroke canadian warplane heritage museum hamilton ontario canadaWhen I say that this is “a” Bristol-Fairchild Bolingbroke, I’m being somewhat economical with the truth. It is in fact “many” Bristol Bolingbrokes.

When they were taken out of service they were sold off for scrap and the shells were very popular with farmers as chicken coops and the like.

Even today, you can still find them on farms and in scrapyards, and a total of eight of these “wrecks” have gone into assembling this one.

supermarine spitfire Mk 16 canadian warplane heritage museum hamilton ontario canadaNo prizes for guessing what this one is.

It is of course a Supermarine Spitfire, and the cockpit and a few other bits and pieces tell you that it’s a late-model one too.

As I suspected, it is indeed a late-model – a Mark XVI from April 1945 but which never saw actual combat.

douglas dakota dc3 canadian warplane heritage museum hamilton ontario canadaAnother aeroplane in here that never saw combat – although it certainly was old enough to do so, is this one.

Again, no prizes for guessing what this aeroplane is. It’s a Douglas DC3 – the legendary Dakota.

It’s always been a civilian aircraft – not a converted C47 “Skytrain” like so many were. She first flew in 1939 and spent the war years flying for Eastern Airlines.

westland lysander canadian warplane heritage museum hamilton ontario canadaNow here’s an aeroplane that I’ve been looking forward to seeing.

It’s a Westland Lysander and you may be surprised to learn that I’ve never seen one of these “in the flesh” before.

Built for an Army Co-operation role, there was a mix-up over the specifications and it turned out to be totally unsuited to the task.

canadian warplane heritage museum hamilton ontario canadaHowever, its slow speed (stalling at only 65 mph), very short take-off and landing requirement and rather spacious interior soon found the aeroplane ideally suited for another role.

These were the planes that, painted black, used to fly out in the dead of night to land in lonely fields deep in Occupied Europe.

There, they would put down Resistance leaders, bring in supplies and pick up evading or escaping airmen and the like

north american mitchell b25 bomber canadian warplane heritage museum hamilton ontario canadaHere’s another fine example of military aviation – the very-much unsung B25 Mitchell Bomber.

Not very successful against front-line German fighter opposition, their deployment was much more common in the Pacific and Mitchells were the first Allied aeroplanes to drop bombs on mainland Japan.

This one didn’t though – it wasn’t built until 1945 and so missed the war. It was discovered on a airfield in Wilmington, Delaware, in 1975, patched up, and flew in to Hamilton under its own steam for a programme of restoration.

fairey firefly canadian warplane heritage museum hamilton ontario canadaI reckoned that this was a Fairey Fleet Air-Arm machine but wasnt sure quite what it was. Subsequent enquiries revealed that it’s a Fairey Firefly.

These were carrier-based fighters (hence the fold-up wings) and were two-seaters. They carried a navigator because it’s much more difficult to concentrate on navigation over the sea – with no reference points or landmarks that a pilot might immediately recognise.

Although dating from 1943, this one is a “peacetime” 1951 model and comes from Australia.

Loads of other aeroplanes here, but there was only really one that I was interested in seeing of course.

air museum hamilton ontario canada avro lancasterThe museum is the proud possessor of one of the very few remaining Avro Lancasters – and furthermore one of the only three that still flies.

My interest though was from another point of view entirely. I blagged my way in to see the assistant-director of the museum with the express purpose of talking to her about KB882.

Her response was frightening. “Ohhh – we could use it as spares for ours!”

air museum hamilton ontario canada avro lancasterThat is what I call sinister and that will be an even worse fate than that which it is currently experiencing. I rather wish that I hadn’t said anything now.

Don’t forget – KB882 flew over Germany on wartime missions – it has far more history than the one here.

I’m coming round more and more to the conclusion that the only hope for the future for KB882 is that if I put my money where my mouth is and buy it myself.

air museum hamilton ontario canada avro lancaster flight deck controlsI went off to seethe … "is this a typing error or a Freudian slip?" – ed … aeroplane and had a wander around inside it and a sit at the controls.

That has to be one of the highlights of the voyage.

It cheered me up a little – but only a little. I was definitely shocked to the core.

air museum hamilton ontario canada avro lancaster upper gunnerI actually felt quite sorry for the poor people who spent all of their air-time crouched over these guns.

It can’t have been very pleasant for anyone to have sat here behind your twin .303s watching someone with a couple of 0.5mm cannon and a barrage of 8x.303s coming swooping down towards you and knowing that you might as well just throw stones at them for all the good that your defensive armament will do.

air museum hamilton ontario canada avro lancaster tail gunnerbut the position which no-one wanted to occupy – unless he was a complete psycopath – was the rear gunner.

Night-fighters did most of their stalking from the rear and it’s inevitable that the rear of the Lancaster is going to be the first aiming point of the night fighter.

I don’t care what anyone says, the Mark I eyeball was never as good as the Lichtenstein radar carried by the nightfighters and the first warning that the rear gunner received was a fusillade of cannon shells and machine-gun bullets.

air museum hamilton ontario canada avro lancaster bomb bayThe museum was in a hurry to close (have I been here THAT long?) but I had just enough time to stick my head inside the bomb bay.

Just imagine one of Barnes Wallis’ Bouncing Bombs or 10-tonne “Grand Slams” stuck up there!

But I had to go. So much more that I wanted to see too but here they were, throwing me out.

But what a place it is, though. A museum curator who “knows the price of everything but the value of nothing” – that’s a harrowing thought.

Makes me wonder what else have they cut up at that museum that they are keeping quiet about?

And now for my last night in North America, which I’m at Fort Erie.

peace bridge buffalo new york usa fort erie canada Port Erie is just like Windsor – a Canadian city with a big American City just across the River Niagara there.

That’s Buffalo over there, and we’ve been there before – and it seems like 100 years ago now.

But here we have a railway museum, the start of the Welland Canal (that enables ships to by-pass the Niagara Falls) and a few other things too;

peace bridge buffalo new york usa fort erie canadaLike a big bridge – the Peace bridge of 1927 in fact.

Named to celebrate 100 years of peace between the USA and Canada, construction started in 1925 and was opened to the public on 1st June 1927.

At the time, it was the only bridge between Niagara Falls and Minnesota across the Canada-USA border that could take road-going vehicles.

peace bridge buffalo new york usa fort erie canadaAs you admire the colour changes, let me tell you that the bridge is built of 9800 tons of steel – of which 9,000 tons is in the structure and 800 tons as reinforcement in the concrete.

Altogether, it’s 5800 feet long, which is about 1.1 miles in real money and it spans a river where the average current is about 10 mph.

That’s actually quite a speed for a river.

canadian customs facilities peace bridge buffalo new york usa fort erie canadaSome of the most spectacular Canadian customs facilites are here too. That building down there never dates from 1927 – I promise you that!

It incorporates the toll plaza apparently and dates from 2005. There are 14 lanes for cars and special facilities for lorries, of which over 4,000 pass through every day.

As a result, the facilities are often overwhelmed and there is talk of some kind of pre-clearance facility similar to the European TIR idea.

I found a motel at a reasonable price and I put a tin of beans in the slow cooker before I went on my ramble.

On the way back I went to look for some chips to have with them but would you believe … in the whole of this town near where I’m staying where there are three or four fast-food places, there’s not a six of chips in sight.

And so I sulked off for an early night.

I’m off to Toronto where my aeroplane will await me at 20:50. And I’m already depressed about leaving Canada. I shall be inconsolable by the time I get back to Europe.