Tag Archives: churchill

Tuesday 12th September 2017 – I’M IN GOOSE …

bed labrador canada september septembre 2017… Bay right now, and this bed-and-breakfast is far too posh for me. Even the spare toilet rolls in the bathroom have little hats on.

But then I shouldn’t even be here. I should have been staying somewhere else but according to mine host here, the guy whom I’m looking for is “out of town” and that’s a huge disappointment.

It means that yet another one of my projects has tombé à l’eau, as they say back home in France.

Last night, I had another disturbed night’s sleep – maybe crashing out for an hour or two in the afternoon yesterday didn’t help. But it took ages to go off to sleep, and I was tossing and turning all night.

But I was on my travels too. Back running my business and it was a Saturday morning, really quiet, and so I wandered away. I ended up at a house ful of people who were visiting someone who was quite ill.People were being let in to see this person two at a time, and there was a lot of noise coming from that room. Eventually it was my turn, and found that the sick person was another former friend of mine. She had a puppy with her – apparently her cat had died. She wasn’t interested in talking much about anything serious – just chatting about nothing. I asked her why her house was surrounded by scaffolding and she gave me a weird look. The other person there said that the house was a wreck and falling down, and this was apparent, although the house wasn’t as bad as the one next door.
Somewhere along the line I was in my bedroom when I noticed a young rat in there. That filled me with dismay.

cartwight experience labrador canada september septembre 2017After breakfast, I set out to tidy up my living accommodation, and that took me longer than i intended too.

And then I had to take it all out and load it into Strider. Luckily I’d tidied him out the other dayso that didn’t take too long.

I could also take a photo of the caravan too. Expensive, but it was the only thing available and I was quite comfortable in there.

cartwright experience labrador canada september septembre 2017And so I went to cash up, and it wasn’t quite as painful as I was expecting. But then again, to do things like this you need to bite the bullet.

It also gave me an opportunity for Strawberry Moose and me to say goodbye to our crew.

Nothing had been too much trouble for them. I was made very welcome and I’ll be delighted to go back and carry out a further exploration.

labrador canada september septembre 2017The road into Cartwright the other day was beautiful and well-worth a photograph. But with it being late afternoon, I had the sun in my eyes to the west.

Not so this morning though. I have the sun at my back and the view is even better.

That’s Main Tickle over there again, I reckon.

muddy bay labrador canada september septembre 2017Somewhere down there, I reckon, is Muddy Bay where the orphanage was.

It’s impossible, apparently, to go there by road and so we were obliged to go by boat the other day.

But the weather was nothing like as good as it is today and so the photography wasn’t as good as it might have been,
and that was disappointing.

paradise river labrador canada september septembre 2017At a certain point the Métis Trail goes over the brown of a hill and just for a brief moment there’s a view in the distance of what I reckon might be Paradise River.

You can see why Cartwright gave it its name, can’t you?

This new zoom lens that I have bought is doing really well and while it’s not as sharp as I like, it’s producing the goods fair enough.

native living paradise river labrador canada september septembre 2017Cartwright wasn’t clearly the only one who considered it to be Paradise.

It looks as if a native Canadian has chosen this spot for his homestead and, honestly, who can blame him?

It’s the kind of place where most of us would like to settle if we have the chance – and I’ll show you my preferred spot in due course.

labrador city 813 kilometres canada september septembre 2017This is one of the places where we always stop to take a photograph as we drive by – it’s where the Métis Trail rejoins the Labrador Coastal Drive.

It’s the first place where Labrador City appears on the signs – only 813 kilometres away – and it’s only another 500 or so kilometres from there to the North Shore of the St Lawrence and Highway 138.

And I’m not going to be there for a good while yet.

rest area labrador coastal drive canada september septembre 2017Although this is one of my favourite spots on the Labrador Coastal Drive, this isn’t my ideal place – at least, from a personal point of view.

But with a stretch of 414 kilometres without fuel and any kind of facilities whatsoever, this would be the ideal spot for a couple of fuel pumps, a small motel, a little food shop and coffee bar.

But of course they won’t let me in live permanently in Canada, will they?

police interaction lorry labrador coastal drive canada september septembre 2017Around here on the dirt road the speed limit is 70kph. And although I was doing … err … about 70 kph I was passed by a lorry as if I were standing still.

A few kilometres further on, there he was on the side of the road, receiving the care and attention of the local Highway Enforcement Office, a member of which was busily writing out a ticket.

It’s the first time EVER that I’ve seen Highway Enforcement out here, and if anything is a sign that times, they are a’changing, then this is it.

highway labour camp labrador coastal drive canada september septembre 2017Somewhere hidden in those trees is another sign of the times – a Highway Labour Camp.

And they need it too because the road – bad when it was new in 2010 – was even worse in 2014, worse still in 2015 and absolutely disgraceful this year.

They can’t let it disintegrate much more than this, surely?

arctic meadows labrador coastal drive canada september septembre 2017One of the main arguments put forward about the veracity of the Norse sagas of Vinland concerns the cattle.

The Norse are said to have brought cattle with them, and how they had them grazing in the meadows. This is dismissed as fantasy by the critics.

But there certainly are peri-Arctic meadows in this region – dozens of them in fact, and from what I have seen there are more and more of them developing as the forests are cleared, whether by fire or other means.

labrador canada september septembre 2017Another thing that there are plenty of are eskers. These are like sand ridges and stretch for miles.

But they aren’t brought by rivers but by glaciers. The stones caught up in the glaciers rub against each other and are slowly reduced to sand.

When the glaciers recede, the sand is dumped along where the edges of the glaciers would have been, and they are spectacular where roads have been cut through them.

myI mentioned earlier where my ideal spot in Labrador would be.

If I could settle here, I would be extremely happy. But also extremely isolated too because it’s miles from anywhere.

Situated at N52° 52′ 30″ and W58° 19’52” in fact.

peri-arctic meadow labrador coastal drive canada september septembre 2017You can see what I mean about these peri-Arctic meadows. They are all over the place these days.

And assuming that the climate was kinder in the 11th Century – in the middle of the “Medieval Warm” period, there would have been many more too.

Bringing cattle here would not have been any problem whatever, especially if the cattle had been used to life in Greenland.

valard eagle camp labrador coastal drive canada september septembre 2017There’s another enormous work camp here at the side of the road.

We’re currently up on the Eagle Plateau and so it’s called, rather imaginatively, “Eagle Camp”.

I thought at first that it was something to do with Highway maintenance, but closer inspection revealed that it’s all “Valard” – the company that is constructing the electricity transmission cables across Labrador.

labrador coastal drive canada september septembre 2017Mind you, the highway DOES need attention. It was resurfaced with loose gravel in 2015 and it’s already been ripped to pieces.

At one point I hit a hidden dip, the rear end of Strider lifted off the road and I was going sideways heading for the drop off the verge.

We had an exciting couple of seconds (which seemed like a couple of hours) as I wrestled for control of the vehicle. But we are still here.

clouds of dust labrador coastal drive canada september septembre 2017I mean – you can see what the labrador Coastal Drive looks like simply by glancing in the rear-view mirror of Strider.

At this point we have loose gravel being thrown about everywhere and clouds – and I do mean clouds – of dust thrown up behind us.

No wonder that you spend so much time fighting for traction if you are thrown off course by the lumps and potholes.

But at least it’s not like the time in the Utah Desert where the trail was so rough that I was travelling slowly and the wind was so strong and in the wrong direction that I had the unnerving experience of being overtaken by my own dust-cloud.

asphalt highway labrador coastal drive canada september septembre 2017But oh! Wait a minute! Look at this!

When we were here in 2015 we noticed that the asphalting of the highway had started – but had come to a sudden stop with patches of gravel road in between.

But now, the asphalting has extended far beyond where it was back then. There’s the sign telling you to prepare for the gravel road, and there’s the guy cleaning off the edges of the road.

Another 5 years and it will be asphalt all the way.

labrador coastal drive canada september septembre 2017But despite how good the road might be, there are still challenges to face, such as the incessant climbs and descents.

We’re travelling from south-east to north-west and all of the river valleys around here are going from south-west to north-east.

You can see over there the line on the right – that’s the road back up the other side of this valley. On the left is the track of the Valard cable from Muskrat Falls.

churchill river labrador canada september septembre 2017But here is the final descent for now. That’s the valley of the Churchill River, and to the right are the towns of Happy Valley and Goose Bay.

That’s not quite my destination for tonight though – I’m driving on to North-West River where I have things to do.

But I’ll leave you here to admire the beautiful scenery.

muskrat falls protesters labrador canada september septembre 2017But a little further on is the entrance to the controversial Muskrat Falls hydro-electric project.

And opposite is the camp of the protestors. Not quite as big as the Faslane camp, but it’s limited by law, and here all the same.

I’m not going into the rights and wrongs of the project, because everyone has his or her own opinion about it, but it’s one of these things where, from my own point of view, the environmental and cultural objections outweigh the profit considerations.

But then again, as I keep on saying, I don’t have to live here

churchill river labrador coastal drive canada september septembre 2017But leaving aside Muskrat Falls for the moment, I clatter across the metal bridge over the Churchill River.

It’s been known by several other names, such as the Grand River (which it certainly is) and the Hamilton River, but it was renamed the “Churchill” upon the death of Sir Winston.

But whatever name it might have, it’s certainly the most famous river in the whole of Labrador,and probably the most important too.

goose bay labrador canada september septembre 2017As usual these days, arriving in Happy Valley, I find a different dirt road heading east and follow it all the way that I can.

And on this particular road, I can’t go any further. But it certainly brings me to a spectacular view over Goose bay and the head of the Hamilton Inlet.

It’s very easy to picture the scene as the first European explorers – maybe Louis Fornel the fur trader or maybe John Davis of the Davis Straits – or maybe even the Norse explorers – made landfall here.

birch lane farm happy valley labrador canada september septembre 2017But hats off to this guy here at Birch Lane Farm. It’s not everyone who would attempt commercial farming in a place like this.

But he seems to have plenty of crops and a good growth of hay, so it looks as if he can make a good go of it.

It totally undermines the opinions that people have about the “Frozen North” – just as it did when I saw the shipping container marked “Alaskan Agriculture”.

fairlane terrington harbour goose bay labrador canada september septembre 2017A quick call in to the port here at Terrington Basin in Goose Bay to see who’s about.

It’s been a long time since we’ve had a “Ship of the Day” and we strike it lucky here. We have the heavy load carrier Fairlane who left Shanghai on 12th July and came here via the Suez Canal.

That’s a long way to come for any ship and it makes me wonder what it was that she was bringing in.

At North West River we hit a temporary setback. My contact isn’t answering his telephone so that rules out my accommodation and my project for tomorrow, which is a disaster.

Not only that, the B&B in the town is fully-booked up.

The motel has a room, but it requires me to drive all the way back to Goose Bay to pick up the key as the unit here is unstaffed. And the girl at reception is particularly unhelpful.

So badger that for a gale of soldiers. A quick telephone call (thanks, Josée for the ‘phone) conjures up a bed in a B&B in Happy Valley, at a price rather less than the motel. I can do that so I cancel the motel room.

bed and breakfast goose bay happy valley labrador canada september septembre 2017But it’s frightfully posh in here – way out of my league. The spare toilet rolls in the bathroom have hats on.

I’m more used to the kind of place where you can “spit on the deck and call the cat a b@$t@rd” as you know, but beggars can’t be choosers, not by any stretch of the imagination

At least I can use the microwave here, so it’s beans, sausages and spuds for tea. And then an early night.

I’m whacked!

Sunday 16th June 2013 – A FUNNY THING HAPPENED …

… this morning.

Lying in bed on my palliasse this morning, I heard someone shout “Eric” quite loudly and so I stuck my head out of the door and said “what?”.

I was greeted by a pile of blank stares from a group of people on the other side of the wall.

I didnt know it then, but I do now, that the name of the guy whose house backs onto this one is also called Eric.

So that was my Sunday morning lie-in ruined anyway, but it was at least gorgeous and sunny. And when everyone else finally surfaced and we all had breakfast, we prettied ourselves up for a special occasion.

Cécile’s mother is rather partial to mussels – the typical moules et frites – and on our travels Cécile and I had seen a flyer to the effect that a local restaurant – the Loup Blanc – was offering a special Sunday lunch of just that.

So Cécile’s mum had a party and we had home-made falafel and chips. Quite expensive but then again this is a tourist resort so you stick €5:00 on each dish before you start.

loup blanc golf course ile d'yeu beauty spots franceInterestingly though, the restaurant also has a mini-golf course.

As you know, with the sun in our faces we couldn’t get a good view of the fortress yesterday but there were no problems here today.

The mini-golf course is designed around the local beauty spots – chateau-fort included. It was quite interesting.

fort de Pierre-Levée ile d'yeu franceAfter lunch, Cécile’s mother had a music concert at the Senior Citizens’ Club and having dropped her off, Cecile and I went off to look at another venue on my list of places to visit.

This is the fort de Pierre-Levée situated somewhat centrally on the island.

It was built during the period 1856-66 on the site of a much older fort. It is much, much greater in size though, so much so that a small hill had to be flattened to accommodate it.

fort de Pierre-Levée ile d'yeu franceOn top of this hill was a menhir … "PERSONShir" – ed … the pierre levée or “raised stone”, hence the name of the fortress.

This was taken down into Port Joinville where it was smashed to pieces by the locals who used the pieces for housebuilding.

Originally a barracks, it later became a prison and its most famous prisoner was Philippe Pétain.

fort de Pierre-Levée ile d'yeu franceIf you know your French history, when France was divided into two by the conquering Germans, they stuck as a figurehead-President the 84 year old French hero of World War I, Marshall Pétain (the oldest Head of State that France has ever had) to give the Government some kind of legitimacy.

Some say that he was shamefully manipulated due to his loss of his faculties in his old age, although you will find just as many people who will insist that he was far from being non compos mentis at the time.

fort de Pierre-Levée ile d'yeu franceNevertheless, at the end of the war he was tried as a collaborator (at all of 90 years of age) and condemned to life imprisonment. In November 1945 he ended up here in the fort de Pierre-Levée where his condition rapidly deteriorated.

As a coincidence, you’ll recall that I don’t live too far away from the Chateau de Chazeron where Pétain’s government incarcerated his political opponents during the dark days of Vichy.

Regular readers of this rubbish in one of its previous reincarnations will recall that Liz and I had been there a few years ago to look at the place, so I was quite keen to come here to see the other side of the coin.

Having been released from confinement due to ill-health on 8th June 1951, Petain died on the island 7 weeks later on 23rd July.

I wanted to add his grave to my list of war leaders, such as Churchill, whose tomb I had seen when I went for a wander around with Sue, and of the French General whose name I have momentarily forgotten and whose tomb I had stumbled across quite by accident in a small village graveyard in Finisterre in the mid 1970s, long before these pages ever began to see the light of day.

And of course the memorial to Marechal Desaix, right-hand man of Napoleon during some of his early campaigns, down the road from me in Ayat-sur-Sioule.

grave marshall philippe petain Cimetière Communal de Port-Joinville franceWe went off the the Cimetière Communal de Port-Joinville to see his grave and it was actually there.

That might sound a surprising thing to say, but it wasn’t always there. In February 1973 his body was stolen by Far-Right activists who wanted his body in the grave that had been prepared for him at Verdun.

The authorities recovered it and reburied him here, but as a concession they gave him a Funeral of Honour.

commonwealth war graves Cimetière Communal de Port-Joinville ile d'yeu franceThere are several other graves in here that are quite important. They are of 16 British and Commonwealth servicemen, one of whom is unidentified.

Seven graves relate to airmen from 149 Squadron RAF.They had taken off from Lakenheath in a Stirling Mk1 BF 392 OJ-D at 18:30 on 16th October 1942 on a “gardening” mission, sowing mines in the Gironde estuary and were shot down by a night fighter.

Most of the other graves however are dated May and June 1940 and are from a variety of services and regiments.

I do recall that in a well-hushed-up incident of World War II a British transport ship – the Lancastria if I remember correctly – evacuating troops from mainland Europe during the final days of the Battle of France was sunk off the coast of St Nazaire on 17th June 1940.

There was a massive loss of life, somewhat similar to the Wilhelm Gustlof off the coast of Danzig in the latter days of the war.

I wonder therefore if the later casualties buried here might be bodies of soldiers from the Lancastria who were washed ashore here at a subsequent date.

I shall have to check up on this.

And that reminds me – whenever you are on board a ship or other maritime transport, always carry a bar of soap in your pocket. That way, if you fall overboard or are shipwrecked, you can get washed ashore.

Don’t be like one of the survivors of another maritime disaster, the sinking of the Caribou, to whom I talked a good while ago.

He was telling me that he spent 16 hours in the freezing Gulf of St Lawrence, clinging to an upturned lifeboat.
“Didn’t you manage to drag yourself up?” I asked him
“Ohh dear no!” he replied. “I didn’t even have time to put on my lipstick”.

street of the flying dutchman ile d'yeu franceBut I had to laugh at this sign – and so should you too.

And not because it’s incorrect – it should be “rue du Ne’erlandais Volant” these days

It is of course anyway the Street of the Flying Dutchman and that conjures up all kinds of ideas in my head … "well, there’s plenty of room" – ed … but possibly relates to the famous ghost ship.

However, I always thought that it was called in French the Voltigeur hollandais, so who knows?

But now its clouding over again and I think that summer is over for another year.

Friday 12th November 2010 – ONE THING …

… that I hate these days is airports.

Or, to be more precise, what is laughingly called “airport security”.

Here at the Lester B Pearson airport in Toronto we had the usual tale of harassment and intimidation. Customer service here at these airports is absolutely appalling and of course the reason for this is simple.

Security in the past in Canada has been a pretty minor affair in a country that rarely attracts any attention from the more wilder parts of the world.

But following the events of September 2001 in the USA when it was discovered that some of the perpetrators had crossed over into the USA from Canada, the Septics have leaned heavily on the Canadians in what can only be described as an export of their national paranoia (for make no mistake – that’s what most Americans are suffering from).

With a security organisation that in the past has been negligible, it’s expanded out of all proportion, far too rapidly for its own good and it’s attracted to its ranks some of the worst elements of humanity.

So here in the Canadian Security Service we have people of the type who would have previously been of a more marginal type, the type that would be overlooked in a crowd and passed by in the street.

But now these people have all been given uniforms and badges and a small amount of power and by Jupiter are they going to show the world just how important they have become and exact a cruel revenge for all of the mistreatment that they believe that they have suffered.

And so with a car hire company that tried to stick an excess mileage charge on me despite my contract being clearly “unlimited mileage” and this new self-service check-in thing that doesn’t seem to save any time at all and the only purpose that it serves is to stress out an even more-stressed out group of passengers, I was one very unhappy and very stressed-out bunny.

It didn’t help matters much with the one-in-twenty people being singled out for the full attention, and the person in front of me was number 19.

Ahh well. You can tell that I’ve been having a bad day, can’t you?

mock up steam locomotove fort erie railway museum ontario canada november novembre 2011it all started to go wrong almost as soon as I had left the Motel.

You’ll probably enjoy seeing this mock-up of a steam locomotive here, but I didn’t.

I was hoping to see a real steam locomotive, but as you have probably guessed by now without me having to tell you, the museum is closed for the season, isn’t it?

4-8-4 steam locomotive fort erie railway museum ontario canada november novembre 2011 And it’s not practical for me to go clambering over fences as I have done elsewhere, seeing as we are in an urban area close to the US border.

But I can poke my camera through a gap in the fence like you do … "like SOME of you do" – ed … and photograph locomotive 6218, the pride of the museum.

She’s a 4-8-4 “Northern” type, formerly used by the Canadian National and was built in 1942 – not 1948 by the way, as so many people insist.

buffalo new york usa from fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011With having been disappointed at the Railway Museum, I had to go and find something else to do.

And that included this beautiful ephemeral view of Buffalo away across the water slowly emerging from the morning mist.

There’s nothing wrong with an early-morning start when there are views like this to be had.

fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011The area around the River Niagara was fought over, over and over again during the War of 1812 and so it’s no surprise that there are dozens of defensive works all over the place.

When we were on the other side of the river last month we saw some of the American defences.

Today, we are going to look at some of the British defences

fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011We can start by looking at the fort from which the town takes its name.

When Nouvelle France fell to the British at the end of the Seven years War, a series of forts was constructed along the new boundary as supply depots and in a bid to keep the native tribes under control.

Fort Erie was the first one of these to be built.

fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011The one here today isn’t the first fort at Fort Erie. Construction of this one started in 1803

The original fort was much closer to the river but floods and winter storms damaged the fort on a regular basis.

For this reason, the fort was abandoned and the new fort was built on the present site higher up the bank.

buffalo new york usa viewed from fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011Just a quick glance out of the fort will show you the commanding view that there is over the city of Buffalo across the river in the USA

it goes without saying that during the War of Independence and the War of 1812 this fort was going to be one of the hot spots.

During the latter conflict it changed hands on several occasions.

obelisk soldier graves fort erie ontario canada november novembre 2011That obelisk there is of much more recent date however.

When the renovations started on the fort as a part of a “make-work” project during the Depression, they uncovered a mass grave of about 100 British soldiers and a few American troops.

They were all re-interred here and the obelisk was erected over the bodies

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011You may recall from my trip up the other side of the river last month that I ended up wandering through some kind of industrial estate.

No signposts – no nothing. I wasn’t even sure if I was heading in the right direction.

But that’s the place over there. It’s hardly surprising that I was confused as I was driving through it.

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011I stopped to take a few photographs of the place but it was absolutely astonishing.

Whether the wind was in the right direction I really don’t know, but the noise was absolutely deafening today.

And that’s despite the fact that we are still, according to my reckoning, a good 8 or 10 miles away from the actual falls.

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011But I did like my view of the city of Niagara Falls over there today.

We were heading for a beautiful day now that the mist was clearing and at that moment the sky was as blue as the river.

And with a really good zoom lens, I could take a good photo from just here and it came out really well.

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011I’m not going to bore you with a relentless stream of photos of the Falls because you saw them before.

What I can say is that “the principle seems the same. The water still keeps falling over”.

Mind you, it wasn’t me who said that first. I pinched the quote from Sir Winston Churchill, and his Closing the Ring.

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011With it being early November and a weekday, there was no trouble finding a place to park.

A handy place where there was an excellent view of the Falls from the end of the street was good enough for me.

It was even free parking today too. You can’t say fairer than that, can you?

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011Leaving Casey behind me, I went for a walk into town and onto the bridge that connects up the Canadian side to the USA side.

Halfway along the bridge is certainly the best place to appreciate the magnificence that nature can produce znd the clouds of spray just add to the effect.

Shame about the sun, but you can’t have everything of course.

niagara falls new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011I crossed into the Great Satan (through one of the most painless USA border crossings that I have ever encountered) and went for a walk in the park.

You can see the bridge just there, and you can make out the two border posts – one at either end. The USA one is to the right, the Canada one to the left.

And you can also admire the rainbow too. I thought that it was beautiful. Not for nothing is the bridge known as the Rainbow Bridge

niagara falls gorge new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011I nipped back into Canada, picked up Casey, nipped over into the USA to fuel up (as I was running low on fuel and it’s cheaper here)and then nipped back into Canada.

Fully refuelled, we carried on northwards along the gorge.

And it made me wonder how many millions of years it had taken for the Falls to carve out all of this?

robert moses hydro electric power station tiver niagara ontario canada november novembre 2011There are two hydro-electric power plants on the river – one Canadian and one American.

You can’t see the Canadian one – the Sir Adam Beck power plant – because I’m standing on it and there’s nowhere to go on this side of the river to photograph it.

Instead, you’ll have to make do with the American one – the Robert Moses power plant.

It looks fairly new, which indeed it is. The original one that was here, dating from 1886 (and subsequently enlarged) collapsed in 1956.

lewiston queenstown bridge new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011But from my vantage point up here there’s a brief glimpse of the Sir Adam Beck facilities but also a really good view of the Lewiston-Queenstown bridge.

Queues of lorries up there waiting to cross from Canada into the USA. Commercial traffic is forbidden on the Rainbow Bridge so it all must come over here.

I was tempted to go for a stroll but pedestrians aren’t allowed on there. There is however some kind of shuttle-taxi service, so I was told.

lewiston queenstown bridge new york usa ontario canada november novembre 2011The bridge itself dates from 1962 and was deliberately built as a replica of the Rainbow Bridge in Niagara Falls.

It’s the third bridge on (or near) the site. The first bridge was destroyed in a gale in 1854 or 1864, depending on which book you read, and the second – the original “Rainbow Bridge” which was moved here, was deemed insufficient for modern traffic.

The arch is 305 metres long and it’s 113 metres above the height of the river.

fort niagara on the lake ontario canada november novembre 2011Tiptoeing through the vinyards, of which there seem to be an extraordinary number around here, we can catch a glimpse of Lake Ontario in the distance.

On the right of the River Niagara is Fort NIagara, which you may remember us visiting last month.

Today though, we’re staying on the Canadian side of the river and going to visit Niagara-On-The-Lake.

fort george lake ontario canada november novembre 2011In actual fact, we aren’t going to Niagara-on-the-Lake but just to the outskirts of the town, because it’s here that we are going to find Fort George.

It goes without saying that the Fort was closed to visitors at this time of the year. No prizes there!

But there were a couple of workmen doing some maintenance in there and they had left the gate open.

fort george lake ontario canada november novembre 2011So Yours Truly took full advantage of that fact – no prizes there either!

And only one glance out of the defences tells you why the fort was built here.

When the British were obliged to leave Fort Niagara and retreat back across the river in 1796, the Americans took control of the fort over there.

fort george lake ontario canada november novembre 2011It was out of the question that the British would concede dominance of the mouth of the Niagara River and so they built the fort here to overlook the river and to overlook the American-occupied fort.

I’d be very tempted to show you what I mean, but unfortunately the vegetation has come between us.

It would be a really nice idea if the guys from Parks Canada or whoever they are took the opportunity to do a little brush-cutting.

fort george lake ontario canada november novembre 2011Built in 1802, the Fort fell to the Americans in May 1813 but was recaptured in December of that year.

At the end of the War it was neglected, but this was another national monument, like Fort Erie, that was restored during the “make-work” campaigns of the late 1930s.

Every year since 1984 a re-enactment of the battle of May 1813 has taken place here.

welland canal lake ontario canada november novembre 2011Next stop (I AM being a busy little beaver!) is the entrance to the Welland Canal.

Shipping on the Great Lakes is very important but the Niagara Falls forms an impenetrable barrier.

Several “narrow canals” were built to by-pass the falls but they wouldn’t be much use for ocean-going shipping. Construction of the present canal began in 1913 and was finally completed in 1935

welland canal lake ontario canada november novembre 2011The canal is just over 43 kilometres long, just over 8 metres deep and about 24.5 metres wide.

The rise in the canal is almost 100 metres – handled by 8 huge locks that can take shipping of 225 metres in length.

Eight locks, I said, and about 3,000 ships use the canal every year. That’s about 8 or 9 every day.

It was fully my intention to wait here as long as it took to see a ship go through a lock, even if it was, as I had been expecting, a 50-tonne coal barge, as is my usual luck.

perelik welland canal lake ontario canada november novembre 2011I didn’t have to wait very long either. And when it did come, I well and truly hit the jackpot, as you can see.

One might even say that my ship really had come in, in fact.

Right on cue, steaming … "dieseling" – ed … out of the mist – because there’s a low fog slowly rolling in – came the Perelik – all 13,887 tonnes of her.

perelik welland canal lake ontario canada november novembre 2011The locks can handle a ship that it 24.5 metres wide so they say, but I’m not quite sure how.

The Perelik is a mere 22 metres wide and there’s not enough room down there to slide a feeler gauge, never mind anything substantial

As for her length though, she’s 142 metres and has a draught of 7 metres, and so there’s a reasonable marge de manoeuvre on that score.

perelik welland canal lake ontario canada november novembre 2011As I watched the Perelik go dieseling off on her merry way, I counted myself very fortunate that I’d seen her navigate the locks.

You’d have to wait a long time to see anything much bigger than she try to push its way along the canal. And not only that, there’s uncertainty as to whether the canal might be here much longer.

There are plans afoot to replace the canal with one that can handle even bigger ships, but that’s a project that is continually being cancelled and it probably won’t see the light of day in our lifetimes.

2030 is the latest date for completion, but construction hasn’t even started yet, so I’m not holding my breath.

la grande hermine jordan harbour ontario canada november novembre 2011Back on the road again and round the edge of the lake towards Toronto, and we don’t go far before we come to yet another juddering halt.

What on earth is this in Jordan Harbour?

Chatting to a couple of the locals, they said that they had lived here for 20 years and this ship was there before then, and they didn’t rightly know.

la grande hermine jordan harbour ontario canada november novembre 2011But they were being somewhat economical with the truth because in reality she’s only been here since 1997.

Depending on what you read or who you talk to, she started life in 1914 as a ferry on the St Lawrence or in 1941 as an icebreaker.

She was transformed into a replica of La Grande Hermine – the ship on which Jacques Cartier came to the St Lawrence in 1535 – in 1991 and wa subsequently purchased by a local businessman to convert into a floating restaurant.

He either ran out of money, or died (or both) and the ship sat here while the legatees decided what to do with it, but a “suspicious fire” (and how many of these have we seen on our travels?) in January 2003 put an end to that.

And here she sits today.

So now I need to put my skates on and get moving towards Toronto. And not only now do I have to contend with the rolling fog that’s enveloping just about everything, I’m stuck in a confiture de circulation. It’s rush hour of course.

I fuelled up the car and drove it down to the airport and my series of confrontations with the locals.

boeing 767 lester b pearson airport toronto ontario canada november novembre 2011But the tourists have the last laugh, as indeed they almost always do.

Here we are on our Boeing 767, seating capacity about 280, and I’ve counted less than 50 people on it. We can all have a row of seats each.

I like to think of myself as a pretty-seasoned traveller and I can withstand the pressure from these people and fight back.

By the look of the empty seats on this aeroplane, others don’t look as if they could be bothered and are talking with their feet

Serves the airlines, the Governments and the Tourist industry right too.

Sunday 17th October 2010 – SUNDAY NIGHT FOUND ME IN ST. BRIDES

atlantica motel st brides newfoundland canadaAnd I bet you are wondering where this might be. It is in fact right down in the south-east of Newfoundland on the coast of Placentia Bay.

The motel was cold and damp at first, but then again I was the first visitor for 5 weeks and I did appear unexpectedly. But half an hour with the electric heater soon solved the problem.

And Argentia, and Placentia Bay is of some historical significance – it’s a huge deep bay on the south coast of Newfoundland and its historical claim to fame is that it was one of the assembly point of ships sailing from North America during World War II. They would arrive in the bay here and would be marshalled into their appropriate convoys – the Home Fast, the Home Slow, the Arctic Convoys and so on, be allocated a destroyer group to escort them on their voyage, and then they would be sent off into the cauldron that was the Battle of the Atlantic

plancentia bay argentia newfoundland canadaAnd not only that, an important wartime conference took place here between Churchill and Roosevelt in August 1941 – 5 months before the USA entered the war. The Atlantic Charter, as it became known, set out Churchill and Roosevelt’s vision for a postwar world.

And the one thing that rings any kind of bell about the Bay – the memoirs of Jack Broome or the biography of “Johnny” Walker for example, will be the mists and the fog and the persistent rain of this area. And do you know what? It’s absolutely pouring down – rain I don’t recall ever having seen before – and the fog is so thick you can cut it with a knife.

deer lake motel newfoundland canada And that is astonishing because for about 9/10ths of my journey across the south of Newfoundland from leaving my motel at Deer Lake until about Clarenville or whatever, the weather was absolutely gorgeous and I was in shirtsleeves.

The moment I crossed the final mountain range to the east coast, the change in the weather was dramatic.

gander airport newfoundland canadaI’ve also been to another historical site today – the airport at Gander. Before he became the officer in charge of Bomber Command, “Bomber” Harris was the chief of the Royal Air Force’s Purchasing Commission in the USA, charged with re-equipping Bomber Command with medium bombers after the Fairey Battles had been annihilated during the retreat to Dunkirk.

He bought a large amount of Lockheed Hudson bombers but hadn’t thought about how he would get them back to the UK.

A young BOAC pilot by the name of Donald Bennett, who had been seconded to his command, said “why don’t we fly them back?” and the Atlantic Ferry was born.

lockheed hudson bomber air museum gander newfoundland canadaBennett, officially a civilian who, in his BOAC days had flown passenger aircraft across the Atlantic in the 1930s, himself flew the first one, from the USA to the civilian airfield at Gander where he refuelled.

On the night of 10th November 1940 as navigator, he led a squadron of Hudsons off for the 16-hour flight to Aldergrove in Northern Ireland, over 2000 miles across the Atlantic. All kinds of planes flew from North America to Europe with the Atlantic Ferry, and the father of Liz (who reads this blog) was a navigator on some of the Halifaxes made in Canada that made the crossing.

war grave world war II military cemeterygander newfoundlandn those days, with primitive navigational aids and unknown climatic conditions the flights could ba hazardous and many machines were lost.

Just outside Gander is a Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery with the remains of 100 aircrew who perished at Gander – either exhausted after the long flight from the USA to Gander and becoming disorientated in the fog, or else failing to leave the ground in the planes so heavily overloaded with petrol for the long flight across the Ocean.

But I saw something in the cemetery that absolutely disgusted me. A woman was there with a dog – off its lead – and it urinated on a grave.

The woman did nothing. I did something – I made the woman completely aware of what I thought about all of this and by the time I had finished she got back into her car with her dog and left the scene. It was a thoroughly shameful display.

car towing two trailers clarenville newfoundland canadaAnd so I finished my journey along the Trans Canada Highway down to the south-east of Newfoundland, admiring the scenery and the rather lax traffic laws that allow all kinds of bizarre combinations of vehicles and trailers to take to the road.

Long-gone are they days when this kind of thing would be tolerated in Europe, and if I could obtain a residence permit for Canada I’d be here like a shot.

Monday 4th January 2010 – BRRRRRRRR!

The weather has broken here today. I woke up this morning to discover about 3 inches of snow and a temperature of minus 0.5. So first job before breakfast wa to climb up on the roof and clear the solar panels. We were promised a day of scattered cloud (which also means intermittent sunshine) but apart from a patch of blue that I noticed out of the corner of my eye while I was cleaning off the panels, it was just miserable, grey and depressing.

And cold too. The temperature continued to drop throughout the day and it’s currently (or it was an hour ago) minus 4.2 degrees. It’ll warm up slightly tomorrow and then collapse down to minus double figures.

I’ve been working on the area under the stairs today and I reckon I’m going to go with this idea about having the kitchen in the living room. As you know I’m planning to capture my rainwater in a subterranean tank but in order to do this if I put the kitchen in the lean-to as originally planned, I’m dependent upon the local council selling me a piece of ground. If I put the kitchen the other side of the house – i.e. under the stairs, the tank can go next to the lean-to on that side – on my own land. Furthermore, I can put the big freezer that I have in Brussels (I have a centrally-heated apartment standing empty in Brussels you know, and here I am struggling along in sub-zero temperatures! It says a lot for Brussels that I’d rather freeze to death here) in the lean-to on that side of the house and it will be right next to the kitchen.

So what will I do with the lean-to in which I lived for 2 years and in which I planned to install the kitchen? well, I reckon that will make an ideal place for the office. It’ll be on the ground floor with access via the verandah which means that people don’t have to trail all the way around the house and up the stairs to get to it, and also it’ll be close to the living accommodation and coffee-making appliances.

And so what will I do with the attic that I was planning to use as the office? I could turn that into a guest bedroom or something – not that I have guests but then you never know.

The good idea about having plans is so that you can divert from them and go off and do things that are totally different. And the way my house is starting to take shape, I have no idea at all how it will end up. And that’s what I find so exciting.

And in other news, remember me talking about Yemen the other day? Well, the west is starting to up the ante. Remember – you heard it hear first. And in other other news, the body-scanners are on their way. I told you that too, didn’t I? The entire news output of the western world is becoming more and more predictable. I’m getting sick of it, I tell you. It’s not the world that I ever voted for. The problem is though that the UK and the USA have so alienated the rest of the world that things have gone too far for the clock to be turned back. And with a population of about 450 million, it’s not a lot to take on an entire culture consisting of a couple of billion souls – especially when “the others” are much more committed to the cause than anyone in the UK or the USA – imagine trying to drag one of them from in front of the TV to confront an invading army. Of course, forget all about Kamikaze bombers and the like as being something from an alien culture. Churchill was planning to exhort the British population to launch suicide attacks against German soldiers if the invasion had taken place and had already prepared the slogan “you can always take one with you”. That kind of leadership wouldn’t work today – most Brits wouldn’t care who was in charge as long as they still had 500 channels on the TV and 24-hour drinking.

You know, I’m not sure how all of this is going to end as the Bushbaby’s crusade simply isn’t sustainable in the long-term. Even when the mighty USA was confronting Asian peasants armed with World-War II-era surplus weapons in South-East Asia they couldn’t keep it up. And the Russians were defeated by logistics in Afghanistan. What will happen when the steam runs out of the western offensive, which it surely will?