Category Archives: Germany

Sunday 1st July 2018 – I FORGOT …

… that I had set an alarm for Sunday morning while I’m on my travels.

And so at 08:45 we had Billy Cotton bellowing out “Wakey Waaaaaa – KAYYYYYYY” all through the house.

It wasn’t as if we had needed it either because I’d been up and about for an hour or so and had had a shower by this time.

Dave was up a little later (he said that he hadn’t heard the alarm) and we had breakfast together. And I reflected upon my night’s sleep in one of the most comfortable beds in which I have ever slept.

The plan was that I would be away fairly early but Dave and June are very nice people and we were chatting for quite some considerable time, putting the world to rights, and it was gone 13:00 when I left.

My route from there took me down to Lindau, one of my most favourite towns in Germany. I’d wanted to go for a walk around but with running so late it was impossible.

And it was just as well because with it being the first Sunday in July in glorious, boiling hot weather, the whole place was crowded and there were queues everywhere.

I drove straight through (insofar as the traffic would let me), found a bakery for my lunchtime bread, and then found the only vacant car-parking spot in the whole of Baden-Wurttemburg to have lunch. My final tomato hadn’t survived the journey and so that was consigned into the deep.

My route then took me through Friedrichshafen where I had a row with a German taxi driver who wanted to block the dock entrance while he waited for passengers off the Swiss ferry, and then along the Bodensee, dodging from one traffic queue to the next, including one caused by a grockle who had a collapsed wheel bearing on his caravan.

Eventually, after many trials and tribulations, I could hit the foothills of the Scwartzwald and started to climb into the mountains.

It’s been years since I’ve been here too and I made it as far as Donaueschingen, the town that is said to be the source of the River Danube.

The mobile phone once again came up trumps, finding me a little apartment in the “Jagerhaus” – a big wooden chalet on the outskirts of the town.

€57:00 for a night in a large studio apartment, and this place is so good that I could quite happily live here. I have my own fully-fitted kitchen with everything that I need, including a fridge with freezer compartment to deal with my ice blocks.

There’s also a large portable desktop fan, and so I washed all of my clothes and set the fan up to dry them during the night.

But having used so much hot water with the washing, there wasn’t enough left to give me a good wash and I ended up with a cold shower.

But at least I would cook a nice tea of pasta, vegetables and chick peas, which was delicious.

And the bed looks comfy too. I hope that it is because I need my beauty sleep.

Saturday 30th June 2018 – WE HAD ANOTHER …

… early start today.

But this one meant business. Ulli was taking Hans off on a raft ride for his birthday and they had a long way to go. So we barely had time to exchange pleasantries before we all went our separate ways.

But I’d already been on my travels. Back on a job where I should have been retired but was still there. And instead of dealing with the post that was coming in, I was just filing it away un-dealt-with. And regular readers of this rubbish will recall that we’ve had several very similar travels to this one over the years.

For my part, I went off to the big shopping centre down the road. The big DiY place opens early so I went there to look for a German plug for the slow cooker.

A German plug will fit into e French socket but not the other way round, so to solve my cooking issues I’ll fit a German plug for mow. What I’ll do in the long term is to get a three-hole French extension and fit a German plug to that

I was in luck too. They had just the plug that I wanted, and for all of €1:89 too. So I changed the plug in the car park and now we are back in business.

There’s an IKEA just around the corner too so I went in there for breakfast.

But not breakfast in bed, like some lucky people.

Regular readers of this rubbish will recall that the other day Liz and I went to the IKEA at Caen. But they didn’t have enough of some stuff and they had sold out of some others. And so I went round and stocked up with what I had missed.

And it was cheaper than in Caen too.

I had to try a couple of supermarkets before I found a baguette, and then I headed off for the motorway. And we had an element of confusion yet again as The Lady Who Lives In The Satnav failed to recognise a grade-separated route.

having stopped for half an hour to eat my butties, I arrived at June and Dave’s at about 14:30. They live at Memmingen and June has just had a very major operation, so I was looking forward to seeing her and seeing how she was.

Catherine, her daughter, lives nearby so I went to pick her up and the four of us had a vegan pasta and a really good chat for hours.

June’s son had been a sound engineer for several rock bands, including Hawkwind and had played bass in several bands. All of his equipment was at June’s house and she had never heard his bass, a Fender Jaguar, played. And so I duly obliged.

Later that evening I took Catherine home and came back to June’s where I bedded down for the night in their guest room.

And the bed here is beautifully comfortable. I’m looking forward to this.

Friday 29th June 2018 – HANS …

… is an early riser, so it’s just as well that I am.

He came into the living room just as I was slowly stirring and he put the coffee on. We sat around and drank it first thing in the morning and had a good chat about people whom we knew in our younger days. And you’d be amazed by how many there were.

But first job today, after a very welcome shower, was to attack the Gibson bass.

Regular readers of this rubbish will recall that leaving it in a wooden box for 30 years hasn’t done it much good. The machine heads are stiff and the paintwork is mottled. There’s a potentiometer that is seized too.

We took off the strings and sprayed the machine heads with silicon spray, lubricated the switches with WD40 and applied copious coats of leather polish to the woodwork.

And while everything was soaking in, we headed off for breakfast.

Hans knew a little bakery down the road where they served up some reasonable bread rolls, jam, coffee and orange juice. And you can’t ask for fairer than that.

metro munich june juin 2018And afterwards we leapt aboard Caliburn and headed to the nearest metro station, a couple of miles away at Garching.

He told me an exciting story about how the metro line extension out here had been planned years ago but construction was delayed and delayed after objections were raised that if it were built overground, children could possibly run on the line and be killed.

That is, of course, nothing that can’t be cured by giving the survivors a good old-fashioned clip around the ear, and they can run on the tram lines anywhere they like in the city centre.

But apparently the argument led to years of delay and the line out to here was only opened a few years ago.

But with it passing through the student and University quarter, the rolling stock is still of a previous generation.

What surprised me too is that it isn’t cheap to travel on the Munich metro. The much-maligned Paris and Brussels city transport systems are much more affordable than here.

munich june juin 2018Last time that we’d been sightseeing in Munich, I’d forgotten my camera so there weren’t any photos. This year, however, I had managed to remember to bring the camera so I took several pictures.

But this will be a case of when I have more time to sit and relax, I’ll post them all on-line and let you see what I saw on our travels.

The most important was the restaurant for lunch.

Ulli works at a travel agent’s out on the Munchener Freiheit so we went to say hello to her, and right next door was a small restaurant advertising today’s special on a blackboard outside.

“Veganisch curry”.

That was too good an opportunity to turn down and so we went and partook. And delicious it was too.

We headed for home after that and set about attacking the guitar. A bit more spray everywhere and while that was working its way into the crevices I gave the woodwork a really good polish and clean until it shone.

Some metal polish wouldn’t go amiss either but we didn’t have any of that.

Finally the strings went on, and it now looks and sounds like a different machine, and I am well-impressed with that.

Ulli came round with Hans’s birthday cake and we all went down to the beer garden.

hanzi und der oger beer garden eching munich germany june juin 2018Hans and his mate Reinhardt were giving a little concert – acoustic of course because there is no electricity there.

I’d been asked if I would like to play too, and it’s for this that I have been rehearsing for the last few months.

But for this I needed the acoustic bass but regular readers of this rubbish will recall the story about where that is and why I don’t have it with me.

But it’s not six months of my life wasted, as you might think. I did enjoy picking up the bass again, even if I didn’t get to play it live on stage again.

And I’m not sure if I ever shall now.

strawberry moose selfie ted beer garden eching munich germany june juin 2018But we all had a really good time and plenty of fun.

Including Strawberry Moose and Selfie Ted who got together to share a few beers and to swap a few yarns.

And I met a couple of nice ladies. Shame that they were already spoken for, but that’s how it goes, isn’t it? It’s not been my lucky week, has it?

We all toddled off to bed afterwards, where I intend to sleep the Sleep Of The Dead. It’s been a very long day.

Thursday 28th June 2018 – HAVING BOMBED …

lech austria june juin 2018… on Tuesday night with my choice of sleeping accommodation, I can say without any fear of contradiction that I more than made up for it last night.

The issue of the plug for the slow cooker not working is a minor inconvenience really. The rest of it scored a good 11 out of 10 and I’ll be back here again.

I’m not sure who or what awoke me at 04:30 but it was nothing to do with the hotel.

At one moment or another I’d been off on my travels. With a friend of mine (who shall remain nameless) where I was invited to a meal given by a friend of hers. Not long after I’d ordered my meal, the person whose party it was started passing round some literature and seeking orders. It turned out that they were all “Biffers” and this was all about freeing their friends who had been imprisoned. Of course, I had no wish to associate myself with them, so I was all for walking out. But as I’d ordered my meal already, I was wondering if I should go and sit on a separate table. But I didn’t want to embarrass my friend.

lech austria june juin 2018After a shower I did some work on the laptop until breakfast time when I went downstairs to try out the delicious bread.

My landlady’s story was quite interesting. She’d come from Australian a back-packing holiday, run out of money and so had found a job as a chambermaid in Lech. Here, she had met a local boy and the rest is history.

She’d never seen snow before she came here, and neither had her family when they arrived for the wedding. And so, in June, they had a snowstorm on her wedding day.

“A real white wedding”, I told her.

lech austria june juin 2018After I’d finished my work, I went for a walk around the town to see what was going on.

I didn’t manage to make it out there last night and I was keen to take a few photographs to show you what you are missing.

It really is one of the most beautiful places on the planet, and I’d be happy to come to live here permanently.

old car lech austria june juin 2018And not for nothing am I here in Lech this morning. Today is the start of a vintage vehicle rally here in Lech and there are all types of old cars on parade in the town.

Ordinarily, every one of the 50 or so that I saw would have made it onto this page but I really was spoilt for choice. But you’ll have to make do with seeing a select few until I have more time to sit down and expand my notes.

After all, it’s not very easy doing this kind of thing when you are limited to irregular hotel internet connections and timed-out motorway service providers.

strawberry moose lech austria june juin 2018One thing that we do have to do is to give Strawberry Moose a suitable photo opportunity.

It’s not every day that he visits his favourite town in Europe and so it deserves to be recorded for posterity.

No camping allowed here in Lech, but that’s not a problem for him, although it might explain why Kenneth Williams and Hugh Paddick never visited the area.

strawberry moose der lecher lech austria june juin 2018His Nibs has only been here for 12 hours or so, but he’s already opened his own taxi business as you can see. It didn’t take him long to get his feet firmly planted under the table here.

Set up for life with a vehicle like this.

Lech, by the way, is twinned with the town of Beaver Creek in the USA, and you can make of that what you like.

Despite having come here on a few previous occasions, I’d never been right through and out of the other side of the town.

And with the urging of the Lady Who Lives In The SatNav, I set off northwards.

hochtannberg pass tyrol austria june juin 2018A little diversion was called for though.

There’s a back road that goes out to Bregenz (and had I known how this story was to unfold I’d have gone out that way) where there’s a mountain pass, the Hochtannberg Pass at 1675 metres, that I hadn’t climbed before.

There are dozens of photos going back to the 70s of all kinds of various vehicles photographed on the top of various mountain passes, and we are putting together a little collection of Caliburn there too.

But there wasn’t any parking here to make a really good photograph of Caliburn. A quick flash at the side of the road in between the traffic had to suffice.

hochtannberg pass tyrol austria june juin 2018But the view westwards was quite impressive too. And you can see what a magnificent area this is and why I was so happy to come here, even though the clouds were closing in rapidly.

It was round about here that I started to have the feeling that it wasn’t going to be my day.

And as I retraced my steps in the general direction of Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau, a few drops of rain started to fall on the windscreen.

By the time I reached the German border the torrential rain was lashing down on everything in sight.

Considering the tropical weather that we had been having up to that point on this journey, this was quite a surprise. It put paid to any plans that I had to go sightseeing.

kloster ettal abbey germany june juin 2018There was however a small town along the route that was crammed full of tourists and it was here that I stopped to pick up some bread.

But do you know – I forgot to make a note of where I was so I can’t tell you anything about it.

I shall have to do some more research in due course when I update this page.

For lunch, I pulled over onto a layby at the side of the road. And here, shame as it is to say it, I fell asleep for a while. I’m not doing too well am I, these days?

This made me run quite late and what with all of the roadworks on the A95 (I decided to fahr’n fahr’n fahr’n down the autobahn after all in an attempt to make up the time) I hit Munich just in time for the start of the rush hour.

And having come from the south, I ended up straight in the city centre too. It was this point that I’d wished that I had come in from Bregenz on the south-west and hit the ring road instead.

As a result, the last 19kms of my journey took me 90 minutes and had I not performed a marvellous “taxi-driver’s creep” on a bright red Audi estate, much to my pleasure and his chagrin (he had a beautiful set of motor horns), I would probably be still stuck in Munich right now.

But it seems that The lady Who Lives In The Satnav doesn’t understand grade-separated junctions. A couple of times now she’s wanted me to turn right onto a road that’s 300 feet below the viaduct over which I’m driving. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

With me being so late, I’d missed the vegan shop around the corner from Hans so tea ended up being chips and salad from the beer garden next door.

Later that evening, Hans (who runs a whisky importing business) was having a tasting evening with 10 invited guests.

Everyone seemed to be having a really good time which was just as well. For me, I don’t drink alcohol and even when I did I couldn’t abide the smell, never mind the taste, of the stuff.

But good luck to those who do.

And so with the place smelling like a Babylonian boozer’s bedroom, I settled down for the night on one of the most comfortable sofas in the world.

And here I intend to sleep right through until I awaken.

Saturday 14th April 2018 – I HAD A REALLY …

… nice day out today, and when I finish editing the photos (because there are more than just a few) I’ll be posting them up on here so that you can see what I mean.

We started off by having had a really good sleep for once, although there wasn’t that much of it with having not gone to bed until about 01:30. And that rather set the scene for the day, I’m afraid.

But I was still up early enough, had the usual morning ritual and followed all of that with a shower and a scrub of the undies. The heater in this room has a coat-hanger above it and so anything that I wash will dry in half a day and I need to take full advantage while I’m on the road.

There was plenty to do (like catch up with last night’s blog entry and go in search of some toilet paper) until Alison came on line and told me that she was leaving home, and at the appropriate moment I wandered down to the end of the street to meet her.

Just for a change it was the E40 that we fahrn’d fahrn’d farn’d down nd crossed into Germany there, leaving the autobahn at the next exit and heading, not north to Aachen, but southwards.

Despite having issues with the SatNav, that had different ideas that I had about where we needed to go, we eventually found our destination – Auf Aderich 33, 52156 Monschau. And hereby hangs a tail.

The Dukes of Brabant controlled several small German-speaking Provinces around Eupen and Malmédy which had been incorporated into the Austrian Netherlands. But after the territorial reorganisations following the Napoleonic Wars, their Germanic heritage meant that they were incorporated into the Kingdom of Prussia.

Following the end of World War I at the Treaty of Versailles these small territories were given to Belgium as part of the War reparations.

But there was a slight problem. Due to the mountainous relief of the country here, the only rail connection that these provinces had with the rest of Belgium was via Germany. And the solution was found – that the railway line itself, known as the Vennbahn – would be ceded to Belgium too.

This produced several anomalies, in that several parts of Germany were now isolated from Germany proper by the now-Belgian railway line and despite several subsequent territorial reorganisations, this left five “enclaves” (and, historically, one “counter-enclave”) still isolated from Germany and surrounded completely by Belgium.

The railway line is no longer in existence (it’s a cycle path) but the enclaves are. And these range from town-sized enclaves down in size to just one house and garden. And here we are at the smallest enclave of them all – Auf Aderich.

And this is what we came to see – the smallest of the German enclaves into Belgian territory.

From here we headed on down the hill into Monschau.

This is a very pretty old town situated along the banks of the River Rur as it flows through a cleft in the rocks. Being situated on a fast-flowing river near to a plateau noted for its sheep, the town was famous for its many mills and cloth-weaving.

Not unnaturally, it became quite a rich town and there are dozens, if not hundreds of magnificent buildings here, built of local stone or wattle-and-daub that leave no(one in any doubt about how rich the town was in those days.

In fact, it was so rich that it was regularly looted and pillaged by all kinds of different invading armies during the turbulent years of the second millennium.

We had a coffee and went for a good wander around. Alison, who had been here on many occasions, showed me the sights.

But none of these sights was as exciting as the second-hand shop in the town that had a “dobro” guitar – the acoustic guitar with a built-in resonance speaker that was very popular with blues musicians in the 1920s and still makes an appearance today (we’ve seen many at the Harvest Jazz and Blues Festival).

I would have bought it at a heartbeat, until I noticed “made in China” stamped on the neck. So it’s not an original 1920s guitar at all but a cheap Chinese import, of no interest really to me.

We ended up back in Aachen and our favourite restaurant for a meal and a wander around – not to mention a visit to the Muller supermarket where they sell that beautiful white vegan chocolate with coconut flakes.

By the time we returned home it was too late to go to the football, which was probably just as well because I was exhausted. I sat here and vegetated for a while and then went for a walk around the block.

And then, an early night. A good sleep will do me good as I’m moving on tomorrow. Man In A Suitcase is hitting the road.

Saturday 17th February 2018 – I’M A MISERABLE PLEADER.

Yes, I’m definitely losing my touch.

Maybe it’s trying to do it in Flemish that’s the problem, but on the other hand being a miserable ignorant foreigner who has travelled for for no avail usually works wonders.

But retournons to our moutons as they say back home.

Yet another miserable night as my neighbours awoke me when they returned home at 02:00 and carried on their party until 04:00 or whatever. And as I have said before, it’s not really their noise that’s the issue – it’s more the fact that i’m a light sleeper and the walls are very thin.

I compensated by setting the alarms for 07:30 and 07:40 instead of the usual time one hour earlier. After the medication and breakfast, I had a shower and change of clothes and then attacked a few things that needed my attention.

Alison came through at 10:30. She was just about to leave home so that gave me 15 minutes to gather up my wits (it doesn’t usually take me that long these days as you know) and go to loiter on the corner at the end of the street.

She arrived on time and we hit the road for our day out. She had made several suggestions as to where to go (I always have this problem of people telling me where to go) but the one that stood out above all of the others was Aachen of course – in Germany.

The thing that I like about living in Belgium is that you have a choice of four countries – France, Luxembourg, Germany and the Netherlands – on your doorstep. Luxembourg at 100 minutes is the farthest away and the rest are a lot closer than that.

aachen germany february fevrier 2018The weather wasn’t what I expected though. Considering that it was Germany in February I was hoping for sub-zero temperatures and several feet of snow. Instead, we had a glorious Spring day with a beautiful blue sky.

I felt rather disappointed.

Alison is off skiing in a few days so she wanted to look at some of the clothing in the big Sports shop on the edge of the city centre. So that was to be our first port of call

katzencafe aachen germany february fevrier 2018 But we were distracted by a café that we hadn’t noticed before. It wasn’t the vegan options on offer but the fact that sitting in the window were four rather large cats.

This place is called the “Katzencafé” and the idea is that you can go in there for a coffee and cuddle a kitten. And on chatting to a few friends later I was told that there are these cat cafés springing up all over the place these days. I’m all in favour of that idea of course except that these cats were rather aloof.

Still never mind. The coffee was good and we enjoyed the company.

There was nothing that took Alison’s fancy in the Sports shop (at least, not at a reasonable price, that is) and so we went up the road to the Muller supermarket where I bought some more of that white vegan chocolate that I like

rathaus aachen germany february fevrier 2018We found a square that we hadn’t noticed before where there was a good view of the rear of the town hall and the rear of the cathedral.

I’d not seen the town hall from this angle before, and I do have to say that it was quite impressive.

As an aside … "you’ll get used to this" – ed … the German for "Town Hall" is Rathaus, which is rather appropriate, as I’m sure you’ll all agree.

aachen germany february fevrier 2018Our new little route took us on an exploration of the city in places that we hadn’t visited and past sites that I hadn’t previously seen. And that’s always good news.

And to my delight, I discovered a Bio shop that sold the very brand of vegan cheese that I like. They only had two packs of it though, and now they don’t have any at all.

I also discovered a huge model railway shop and we passed a good half-hour in there. I would love to have a little N-gauge layout back at home, but not at the prices they are asking. There was an HO/OOgauge Big Boyof the type that we all know and love and which was on sale at an astonishing €2599.

mineral watr springs aachen germany february fevrier 2018Passing via several other shops we made it to the Source where I had another drink of the hot sulphuric water. It tastes disgusting of course, but there’s no point in going to the Waters if you have no intention of taking them, even if you have been misinformed.

Unfortunately there wasn’t all that much of a photo opportunity seeing that the building was cluttered with pedestrians and street furniture and the like. I shall have to come along here at 05:00, and bring a Stihl Saw with me too.

The market stall that was selling those delicious fennel-flavoured sweets last time – that wasn’t here today which was bad news. And although our walk was quite interesting there wasn’t really all that much to see that was exciting.

And so, feeling the cold and the exhaustion and the hunger, we detained to the little restaurant that we know – the one by the Roman remains. Alison had a spicy chicken meal and I had the quinoa salad.

clock tower aachen germany february fevrier 2018Being duly fed and watered, we set off for a slow wander back to the car. But Alison drew my attention to the rays of the early evening sun that were just catching the clock tower right by the town hall.

Alison reckoned that it was worth a photograph, and who was I to argue with that?

Back in the car we headed for Leuven in the early evening sunset – our journey being interrupted by the scenic tour of the roadworks halfway along the highway. And when I arrived back I had a coffee and a little … errr … relax.

Round about 19:30 I set off for the football ground. OH Leuven were playing KFCO Beerschot-Wilrijk, a team that I have yet to see, so I was quite looking forward to the match.

But hereby hangs a tale.

With there having been “certain incidents” in the past, the whole ground and surrounding streets were surrounded by police and admission was by prebooked ticket only. And no amount of pleading on my part would convince anyone at all – Police, admission booth, security staff, stadium management (yes, I got to see them all) would change their minds.

Of course, arguing with Belgian administration – particularly from a position of weakness – is a pointless argument as anyone who has ever tried it will tell you. But you have to go through the motions anyway – I don’t give up without a fight.

However in this case, I was singularly unsuccessful and repaired to a bar across the street where several other people, including someone who had come from Italy, in the same position as me were gathered to watch the match on television.

I’ve never understood the fascination for watching football on TV. Yes, fair enough if it’s the only way of seeing a game, but it’s nothing like watching the match in the flesh – nothing at all. There’s no atmosphere for a start, and the focus of the camera cuts out all of the interesting stuff going on in the background.

So at the final whistle, I headed back home again in the cold – to total silence next door. Perhaps they are out partying and they’ll be back at something silly like 03:00. So I’m going to bed quick and grab a couple of hours sleep.

Saturday 14th January 2017 – PHEW, I’M WHACKED!

I’ve had a really busy day today and I’m going to pay for it tomorrow. But ask me if I care!

I’ve always said that I’ll do what I have the opportunity to do whenever I have the opportunity to do it, and today was just like that.

Remember when I went shopping with Alison last weekend? She ended up not buying a ski suit but she did manage to pick one up during the week. But she decided that she would go to look for another one today – in Aachen, Germany, to be precise. Did I want to go?

Well, do bears go for picnics in the woods?

Last night was another typical bad night with an interruption in the small hours as usual. And that’s annoying me as you can imagine. But I made it into the kitchen for breakfast bang on time all the same.

Now here’s a thing that is more than unusual. it’s more than surprising too, and certainly extraordinary. And that is that I was down at the Delhaize in town, doing my shopping and back in my room afterwards for 09:00. When did that ever happen?

By 11:00 I’d showered, shaved, had clean clothes, all of that and gone outside where Alison was waiting for me.

aachen germany january janvier 2017And so, all aboard, we headed off eastwards down the motorway to Aachen. We farhn, fahrn, fahrn’d down the autobahn, in fact.

The weather could have been better though. It was cold, although not that cold, and grey and overcast with snow flurries throughout the day.

We arrived at Aachen where the snow had beaten us to it, and first stop was to sort out some clothing for Alison.

aachen germany january janvier 2017While Alison was searching around in the shops I went for a little wander around in the vicinity. Of course, when women are buying clothes, there’s plenty of time to do that, and even more so when people are in the queue for paying.

It seems that almost everyone in the city was shopping for ski-wear. After all, it’s Carnival quite soon and this is the traditional time for the kids to hit the slopes.

aachen germany january janvier 2017From there, we walked up the hill into town past some nice fairly-modern brick-built buildings that looked quite nice and blended quite well into the surroundings.

A coffee was next, and Alison knew a pretty good cafe. And I’ve drunk much worse coffee than that, I can tell you. I was surprised though, that there was no public toilet in there. I wonder what the EU would have to say about it.

But it does reinforce everything that I have said about the different attitudes that different countries have. Most countries agree to everything, and then have a very lax attitude about enforcing it. The UK fights tooth-and-nail, wasting everyone’s time, about various legislation, end then enforces it to the most ridiculous lengths. Remind me to tell you one day about the tip at Leek.

city square aachen germany january janvier 2017After the coffee we went off up the hill into the city centre, and while Alison went off in search of a woolly hat to go with her new ski jacket that she had bought, I went off for a wander around.

Luckily, Aachen was spared the worst excesses of the Allied terror-bombing of World War II so there is a great deal of the medieval city remaining, despite the American shelling and the SS demolition squads during its capture in October 1944.

And while it’s not the most attractive medieval city that I’ve ever visited, it certainly retains a lot of its charm.

town hall rathaus aachen germany january janvier 2017The Town Hall, or Rathaus, which I always thought was a quite appropriate name for a town hall in any country or any language, was damaged during the capture of the city, but you would never ever think so from just looking at it.

And I don’t just mean the quality of the restoration either. The building could do with a really good clean for a start and it would look so much better if they were to take the time to do it.

town hall rathaus aachen germany january janvier 2017One of the things that I did like about the Rathaus were the beautiful medieval wooden buildings – a pub so Alison told me, that were attached to the side, taking advantage of the stone wall of the Rathaus at the back.

It’s not the first time that we’ve seen this style of construction. There’s the same kind of construction in Belgium at a church near the Bourse that has wooden buildings constructed against it. It certainly saves on construction materials

aachen germany january janvier 2017Round the side of the central square was another small square tucked away out of sight. Alison told me that there was a restaurant there that had vegan food advertised on the menu, so that sounded like a good place to go for lunch.

It’s over there at the back, on the right, hidden by what look very much like historical remains. And I was intrigued to see these remains still standing – they look like the kind of remains that would have fallen down years ago.

living room aachen germany january janvier 2017Alison had a salmon steak and new potatoes, and my vegan ratatouille made with fresh vegetables of the day was even better. It was a little over-priced in my opinion, but it was still delicious and light years away from a bag of chips.

It too was served with sliced new potatoes and that worked so well that I’ll be trying this as soon as I can, now that I have a bag of spuds to play with.

But I didn’t think that the name of the restaurant was appropriate – fancy calling it the Living Room, which could be translated into Lebensraum, the project which concerned the Nazis invading Eastern Europe and exterminating its population.

And I shan’t say anything about setting the décor on fire either.

cathedral aachen germany january janvier 2017Outside the Living Room there was a view of the cathedral, to the right of the historic arches, and if you excuse the building work and the crane thing in the way.

It’s not the best view in the world but unfortunately, like many other well-preserved medieval cities, the cathedral is tightly hemmed in by buildings and it’s not possible to do any better than this.

If the RAF and the American artillery can’t clear the scene, neither can I

cathedral aachen germany january janvier 2017The cathedral itself is a magnificent pile and I expect that you are waiting with bated breath to see a whole raft of photos of the gorgeous interior, the tomb of Charlemagne, and all kinds of relics, including building materials such as marble that were sent by Pope Hadrian I to incorporate into the construction

Unfortunately there was a person loitering just inside the interior whose task it is to pounce upon anyone pointing a camera at anything, and demand a “licence fee” for the privilege of so doing.

Clearly the cathedral authorities have never ever heard of “Christian Charity” and don’t understand the concept of “sharing”. It’s not the first time that I’ve passed comment on the quality and value of the treasures contained in a church – something that goes totally against the concept of Jesus viz “give all thou hast to the poor”, but when it even comes down to naked exploitation and profiteering of the idea of sharing images of what the church possesses, then I’m convinced that there is something totally wrong with the church’s morality.

The oldest part of the Cathedral dates from 792 and is part of Charlemagne’s Palace – probably the only surviving part. And its rare octagonal shape is an indication of its age.

The stained glass therein is stunning too and all in all, it’s quite an impressive building. One day I shall go back – alone – and bring you back some photos to demonstrate what I mean.

medieval city centre aachen germany january janvier 2017The streets surrounding the cathedral are not without interest. Small, tight and cobbled – the very typical medieval street scenes that were swept away in the mid-20th Century in most cities in the UK

And this sculpture was quite exciting too. All of the models on it are mobile and can be manipulated around. It drew quite a crowd and I had to wait ages for a suitable opportunity to photograph it, when there was no-one else loitering in the vicinity.

old ruins aachen germany january janvier 2017Aachen is quite a historic city.

Settlement dates back to neolithic times and was settled by the Romans, attracted to the site by the warm sulphur springs. It was in fact on the frontier of the settled Roman area.

Excavations have taken place in the city from time to time and some of the discoveries are on display, like this site in one of the town squares that is surrounded by a glass case. I particularly liked the idea of the drainage channel just here in the foreground.

The warm springs are just lower down from where these ruins are located, and I went off for a taste. Very sulphuric, and quite warm too. The taste was disgusting, but I had to try it. No point in being here if you don’t do something like that.

There is no photograph of the springs, and no photograph of the plaques with the list of names of the notable personalities who came here to take the water. This was because at this moment we were engulfed in something of a snowstorm.

shop window aachen germany january janvier 2017As the snow eased off we walked back to the car.

Parts of the town are still decorated for Christmas, and some of the shop windows are phenomenal. This was one of my favourites, with the snowmen and other winter scenes, but there were plenty of others too.

And I can’t get over the bakeries either. I love German bread – there is just so much of it and it’s all good, and Aachen is no exception. Thoughts such as working out where the railway station might be in connection with the railway line to Leuven started to run through my mind.

As it grew dark, we hit the highway and headed for home. The return journey was quite quick and I was back here by 18:15. Many thanks to Alison for a good day out.

My day wasn’t finished though. OH Leuven were playing at home against Tubize, kick-off 20:00, so I braved the snowstorm and the freezing cold to go down there, grabbing a bag of chips on the way.

OH Leuven stadion den dreef afc tubize belgium january janvier 2017For a change, I wasn’t behind the goal but high up in the stand along the touchline level with the edge of the penalty area. A grandstand view, especially of down there where I usually sit.

AFC Tubize looked the better side and they had a player, the n°97, who looked streets ahead of anyone else on the field. His name is Jae-Gun Lee and he’s a recent signing, aged just 19, from Korea.

He’ll go far in European football, that’s for sure. Remember that you heard his name first on here

OH Leuven stadion den dreef afc tubize belgium january janvier 2017But OH Leuven went into the dressing room 1-0 up at half-time, rather against the run of play, thanks to an audacious step-over in the penalty area that totally flat-footed the Tubize defence.

I said that there was still plenty of time for OH Leuven to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory, and how prophetic those words were. From the first attack of the second half, Tubize won a penalty and it went all downhill after that.

OH Leuven stadion den dreef afc tubize belgium january janvier 2017And so in the torrential snowstorm that we were having, OH Leuven’s hopes drifted away. Tubize ran out 3-1 winners, and ended with the crowd booing the home side and cheering on the visitors.

That was rather harsh because OH Leuven had tried very hard, but their final ball was always falling short of where it was supposed to go. Nevertheless, they had plenty of chances to equalise, if not to win. But it was one of those games where nothing at all went right.

I walked back, freezing cold, and I’m tired and ready for bed. And I know that I’ll pay for all of this effort in the morning.

I’ll leave you instead with about 2,000 words and hope that you enjoy it.

Thursday 15th October 2015 – NOT A SINGLE PHOTO …

… for the return journey today, and I’ll tell you why in a moment.

But I left you last night with me dozing off in the middle of a film. And I awoke to find that not only were we starting our descent to Frankfurt Airport, I’d actually missed my breakfast seeing as how I’d been asleep. And that’s not something that happens every day – missing out on a free meal. Mind you, I made sure that they knew that I was awake and so they quickly brought me my breakfast and coffee before we landed.

And I’m not quite sure if we landed or if we were shot down over the airport. It was a really rough arrival and when I looked out of the window I could see why. It was blowing a howling gale and teeming down with rain.

I had to travel right across to the other side of the airport for my connecting flight to Lyon. That took a good few minutes and a tram ride, I can tell you, as well as another passage through “security”. And I’ll tell you this – if the passage through “security” at Frankfurt could be completed in the same friendly, relaxed and informal manner in every airport throughout the world, then flying would be a pleasure. I spent more time discussing cameras with the guy at the gate than I did discussing security issues.

Our plane was parked up on the concrete pan right back across to where I had originally arrived, and so we were bussed right back over there. And as we turned around a corner of the building, a huge Airbus 380 took off right alongside us. It was absolutely immense and dwarfed the A340 upon which I’d arrived and which we drove past a minute or so later.

There was no chance of my taking a photo of my aeroplane in this wind and rain. I was drenched just crossing the pan from the bus to the ‘plane and it was freezing too – much colder than it was in Montreal and that’s a change. Anyway, it was a Boeing 737-300 that we had and it’s been years since I’ve flown on one of those.

And here’s a thing. Why is it that when the chief steward of the plane announces on the PA system announces that “you should not be sitting next to an emergency door if you are unable to open it”, they become quite upset and all peevish when you try to open it just to make sure?

And there was no snack for me on this plane either. But the stewardess found me a banana, which was very nice of her and I much appreciated it.

At Lyon, the wind and rain continued and it was even colder than at Frankfurt. We had a little drama on the tram at the airport as a foreign lady had boarded without having a valid ticket. She was waving around the receipt, claiming that that was all that she had received. However, when I had bought mine, two tickets had fallen out of the machine. I’d taken both with me onto the tram intending to give the spare one to the conductor, but here was the reason right before me.

At Lyon Part-Dieu, there was no train for 2 hours and so, now that there’s free public access internet at the station, thanks to the SNCF, I caught up with some stuff on the laptop and then went to the Subway around the corner for lunch. Handy places, these Subways, even though the price in Europe is twice what it is in Canada which is totally ironic seeing that food is twice as dear in North America as it is in Europe.

I had a good deal on the train – €33 and a bit – for my journey to Montlucon. And I had to run between trains at Riom as ours was 5 minutes late arriving from Lyon, so no time to photograph either train (no chance of doing the Lyon one at Lyon with the rain) and I arrived at Montlucon bang on time, with Liz waiting in the booking hall to take me home.

But I didn’t go home. Instead, she took me home for a nice meal and shower, and a nice warm bed. 2°C it was as we passed over the Font Nanaud and I can see me lighting the fire as soon as I return home. Have I ever lit a fire so early in all the time that I’ve been living here?

Saturday 16th May 2015 – IN SWITZERLAND

ferry bodensee friedrichshafen germany romanshorn switzerland may 2015It’s taken me long enough to find a ferry on this journey, but nevertheless here I am.

This is the ferry across the Bodensee, or Lake Constance for the English-speakers amongst you and it sails from Friedrichshafen in Germany to Romanshorn in Switzerland and I am about to make my triumphal entry therein – the first time on this journey.

waterfront bodensee friedrichshafen germany may 2015The waterfront is quite modern too, and unashamedly so. and not the result of wanton vandalism on behalf of the civic authorities but wanton vandalism on behalf of RAF Bomber Command in World War II.

Not that too many people can have too many complaints about that for once (although they might protest at the lack of accuracy) because there are at least two good reasons why the town of Friedrichshafen was a legitimate military target in World War II.

modern waterfront friedrichshafen bodensee germany may 2015And indeed not to mention World War I because the first ever bombing raid in World War I took place here just a matter of a couple of weeks after the start of the war took place here and given the primitive state of the equipment and navigation, was a stunning success that matches anything that the Dambusters could come up with in World War II.

We’ll be going for an inspection of these two legitimate targets in due course.

suspension bridge river argen germany may 2015But it took me ages to arrive at the Bodensee as I was being continually interrupted.

This is a suspension bridge over the River Argen. according to a sign at the bridge, it was built in 1896/97 under Kaiser Wilhelm, and that shows you just what a really big man he must have been because the bridge really is quite impressive.

Today it’s flanked by a railway bridge and a modern pre-stressed concrete road bridge, but this one outshines them all.

covered bridge eriskirch germany may 2015The village of Eriskirch a little farther along the roa was full of surprises, and this is just one of them.

It’s one of our old friends a wooden covered bridge. We encounter dozens, if not hundreds of these on our journeys around North America, but Europe has its fair share to offer as we have seen in the past, and as we shall indeed see again before we are much older. I would have gone for a wander through here, but it was closed for repair.

ford taunus eriskirch germany may 2015And that’s not all. Eriskirck also came up with a Ford Cortina Mk V too, excet that this is a mainland European version called the Taunus.

This was parked in a yard with half a dozen other noteworthy cars. I gave it a good going-over and I reckon that a good weekend’s work would have this back on the road. There didn’t seem to be much wrong with it and it was solid in all the suspect places

zeppelin friedrchshafen germany may 2015It’s amazing the things that you encounter on your travels but seeing this flying over me as I travelled further west reminded me of what I was doing down here in the first place.

And that’s just a baby too. could you imagine something maybe five or six times as big flying over your head, because that’s what used to happen in World War I when these monsters were legendary.

zeppelin headquarters friedrichshafen germany may 2015Yes, well done that man. It is indeed a Zeppelin and here on the outskirts of the town of Friedrichshafen are the headquarters of the company.

On a Bank Holiday weekend it was expecting too much for me to be able to go for a trip around, much as I tried, but I had a nosey about instead.

And my hat went off to the intrepid pilots of November 1914 who flew here in rickety string and canvas biplanes who managed to fly here from France and hurl a bomb into a Zeppelin shed, even if they didn’t manage to accomplish very much

dornier museum friedrichshafen germany may 2015I did say that there were a couple of legitimate military targets here in Friedrichshafen. The second one was the Dornier aircraft factory here.

Dorniers were known mainly for their seaplanes and they were built and tested down on the waterfront, hence the bombing raids down there. They also made bombers, the Do-17 and Do-217 but manufacture of those was dispersed throughout Germany

dornier museum friedrichshafen germany may 2015The only aircraft here from before the war are those that have come from elsewhere, such as the flying boat which, if we are to believe the registration number on it, is that flown on the Amundsen expedition to the North Pole in 1925 but which I strongly suspect is a replica.

No Do-17 though – not even a replica and I found that very disappointing. I can understand there not being a real one, although if they made an effort they could certainly find some bits, but no replica is a shame.

ferry boat bodensee friedrichshafen germany romanshorn switzerland may 2015Back on the ferry now and I forgot to take any details of the boat upon which I was sailing, which isn’t like me at all.

Anyway, it was a boat that looks very much like this one. This is sailing in the opposite direction to us and while they might not look very big, they are ten times bigger than the Hatteras Ferry boats that sail across the Hurricane belt in the Carolinas.

diessenhofen switzerland germany may 2015I’m back in Germany again and that’s the River Rhine just there.

The town in the background is called Diessenhofen, a beautiful little walled town that is first recorded in 757, although there are considerable remains from much earlier than this, even as far back as the Stone Age, and a substantial Roman hoard was discovered here.

covered bridge river rhine germany diessenhofen switzerland may 2015To cross the Rhine is a substantial covered bridge, and this was part of the secret of the wealth of the town – the tolls that were generated by people wishing to cross the river.

Today though, there are no tolls, and not even a border post, despite Switzerland not being in the EU. I simply wandered across unchallenged.

border crossing germany ramsen switzerland may 2015But why I crossed over back there was so that I could cross back here. That’s the border and the Rhine is behind me. Theres a little finger of Switzerland that is north of the Rhine, near the village of Ramsen and this was the favourite spot for escaping prisoners of war to cross the border from Germany, where they didn’t have to contend with the Rhine.

On the German side of the border here, the guard was asleep and in the Swiss hut, the place was deserted. And the border was so unguarded (well, relatively, anyway) during the war that one escapee passed through and out the other side where he was recaptured, without even realising that he had been in Switzerland.

rhine falls schaffhausen switzerland germany may 2015Ive come here to see the Rhine falls at Schaffhausen. This was somewhere else where I came on my honeymoon with Nerina and with it being mid October, the river was fairly low.

This time of year is the peak time to see the falls as the last of the snow melt roars through and it certainly was impressive from up here.

rhine falls schaffhausen switzerland germany may 2015From close to, while they may not be as impressive as the Niagara Falls, they are certainly as good as anything else that Europe has to offer and it’s well worth the trip to come to see them, even if you do have to fight your way through the participants of a bus trip from the local mosque.

But be warned – it’s quite a hike back to the top again so I was glad that it was late evening when I passed by here.

old renault van 1920s Switzerland germany may 2015I now try to find some accommodation for the night and I’m not very successful. I forgot about the Bank Holiday weekend and everywhere is either full or closed.

I do manage to find an old Renault van from the 1920s, in a very sorry state, so it isn’t all doom and gloom, despite the fast-approaching night.

In the end, I give up and head for the autoroute. There will be a rest area there and I’ll sleep in Ccaliburn tonight.


Friday 15th May 2015 – I’M BACK ON THE ROAD …

… but I didn’t get too far. And when I sort myself out a little better, I’ll show you why.

But those of you who follow this rubbish on a regular basis will recall that I have been having kitchen and bathroom worktop issues. I mentioned this to Hans because Germany is the place to be if you want high-quality but affordable products, and so he had taken me on Wednesday evening to several furniture and DiY places.

So to cut a long story short, for which you will all be grateful, on my way out of eching I went and picked up 5 planks of 28mm light-oak, 60cms by 240cms. Cost? Just €375 – for the lot, not just for one. If that’s not going to do the job that I want, then nothing will.

donauwurth germany may 2015From here I went to a town called Donauwurth, situated on the banks of the River Danube at its confluence with another river, the name of which I have forgotten.

It’s yet another walled city, of which there is an enormous number in Germany, and if you look very hard, you’ll see a pedestrian gate down there at the end of the path. That’s the way in. We are actually looking at the old moat right now.

centre of donauwurth germany may 2015It’s quite a beautiful little town, calm, quiet and peaceful with some beautiful buildings that look quite old.

But don’t allow yourself to be misled by appearances because it isn’t all what it seems. These buildings may indeed look old but you will be hard-pressed to find anything in the centre dating from before 1945. That’s because despite it being calm, quiet and peaceful, it was selected for the target of the British Bomber Command in April 1945, when the war was all but over and when whatever there was that went on (or didn’t go on, whichever is the case) here had long-since ceased to be of any military significance.

entrance gate donauwurth germany may 2015Not that that had ever bothered anyone in Bomber Command. Lord Cherwell’s infamous “de-housing” report had made it quite clear that the German civilian population was to be the target of the bombers, and Bomber Command carried out these perverse attacks to the extreme degree, long after they had ceased to have any point (if they ever had any point in the first place).

As the American Strategic Bombing Survey, that visited Bombed-out Germany so succinctly put it in its report, all it did was to divert post-war Allied resources to repair the damage and to house and feed the destitute when these resources could have been better-used elsewhere.

plaque for sudeten germans donauwurth germany may 2015I’ve talked in a few previous posts about the problem of the Sudeten Germans, and this was something that took me quite by surprise.

I didn’t expect to see anything like this here a memorial plaque in honour of the Germans of the Sudetenland, and in particular the first batch of 12,000 who arived here in February 1946 and dumped out of the goods wagons in which they were travelling.

They were of course the lucky ones. Most of them arrrived much later, having undertaken the journey on foot, through the savage Central-European winter and having faced all kinds of horrors on the way, death being the least of them.

old city walls germany may 2015There are still some old structures remaining here in Donauwurth despite the devastation of 1945.

These are the old city walls and if my Latin is up to much after all of these years, the plaque tells me that they were built in 1091 and destroyed in 1818, with a few bits added on and knocked down in between.

low energy fridge media markt donauwurth germany may 2015Donauwurth hadn’t finished with me yet.

At the local branch of Media Markt was this nice under-the-counter fridge with small freezer compartment. What was interesting about this was not the price (a mere €199) but the energy consumption – just a claimed 89kW per annum.

If it really does all of that then it’s the most economical of its type that I have ever seen. 89000 watts is about 250 watts per day and I could run that quite happily all year without worrying. You’ve no idea just how much I was tempted.

June wasn’t at home so I pushed on to the Bodensee. My aim of spending a night in Austria came to naught as everywhere in Bregenz was either closed or full. Not only that, at one place I had a most unusual experience anyway, in that someone actually asked “what do you want?” when I rang the bell. Of course I couldn’t contain myself and relied “what do you think that people usually want when they call at a hotel?” and I was impressed that I could say that right off the cuff in German.

guest house lindau germany may 2015Lindau was full too and parking in the old town had passed beyond the expensive into the absurd. I headed out, looking for a quiet layby to lay my weary head when, having taken a wrong turn somewhere, I encountered a guest house, at just €38:00, miles from anywhere.

Primitive and very 1950s it might have been, but I wasn’t arguing at €38 for the night.

medieval buildings lindau germany may 2015I’ve been to Lindau a few times in the past, but it’s been a good few years since I’ve been here. The last time was on my honeymoon with Nerina back in 1988, and I was itching to return as it really is a beautiful city and I cared not a jot about the driving rain.

Very medieval as you can see, and a favourite spot of the Royal house of Bavaria who had a chalet nearby for the summer.

medieval houses lindau germany may 2015And in news that will startle just about everyone reading this, I had a Chinese takeaway for tea.

Its well-known that I don’t like Chinese food all that much but I didn’t have much choice here as the takeaway food outlets are not exactly thick on the ground here – I don’t suppose that Mad King Ludwig would have approved.

But €4.50 for a huge plate of tofu, vegetables and rice to eat in the comfort and privacy of my own bedroom is not to be sniffed at.

At least, something has gone right for me today.

Thursday 14th May 2015 – BATTLING BRAVELY ON …

… despite the crashed hard drive in the laptop, I’m prepared to confront the morning.

Hans made breakfast, and I really do mean that, because today is Himmelfahrt, Ascenscion Day, and everywhere is closed, including the bakeries. What Hans did was to bake a loaf of bread and if I knew anyone in France who could bake bread quite like that, I’d never ever visit a bakery ever again.

himmelfahrt festival friesing germany may 2015With it being a Bank Holiday, theres a festival down the road in the town of Friesing. And in a German festival, they dont bother with just a simple pie hut or a French buvette, they go the whole hog, with beer tent and ooom-pah band.

And much to my complete surprise, one of the food stalls is selling just vegan roducts so I celebrate Himmelfahrt and the vegan pie hut with a late of falafel.

barbers shop quartet himmelfahrt festival friesing germany may 2015There are all kinds of things and all types of entertainment going on here too, including a barber’s shop quartet. Complete with real barbers too, it has to be said.

The young lad on the right isn’t all that impressed, is he? Mind you, the music wasn’t my style either although there was no disputing the ability of the singers. That’s the kind of thing that you can’t deny.

strawberry moose beer garden eching munich germany may 2015In the evening we went to the beer garden just down the road from Hans’ apartment.

It’s the centre of the local universe and seeing as how Hans knows everyone around here, we ended up being quite a crowd. Strawberry Moose met plenty of new friends and became quite popular with the locals.

another thing about this area is once again to do with vegan food. Theres an ice-cream parlour in one of the array of shops around the beer garden and so I wandered off, more in hope than expectation, to see what they had.

Sure enough, there was a choice of about 10 flavours of vegan ice cream (mostly sorbets, but vegan none-the-less) and so I made the most of the opportunity.

Back at the apartment, I had left the laptop running all day to see if it might repair itself past the point at which it keeps stalling. But to no avail. I’m going to have to write this off as a total loss, I reckon.

Thats a catastrophe, but it can’t be helped.

Wednesday 13th May 2015 – IT’S USUALLY FRIDAY …

… the 13th that is the day for things going wrong. So Wednesday 13th must be the day reserve for disasters because, believe me, we’ve had one of those today – and a major one at that too.

view of tittmoning germany from castle schloss  may 2015In fact it started off as we meant to go along. I had climbed most of the way up to the Schloss here at Tittmoning and it was on stopping to take my first photo that I realised that I had forgotten to put the memory card back in the camera last night.

Consequently I had to walk all the way back down to Caliburn, recover the memory card from the laptop, fit it into the camera, and climb back up the hill.

schloss tittmoning prisoner of war camp germany may 2015Finally I made it into the Schloss and had a good wander around.

I did mention last night that it had something of a sinister reputation. This was where British civilian internees, including many people deported by the Germans from the Channel Islands, ended up if they had been naughty, and if they were naughty here, the next (and final) stop was inevitably Buchenwald.

And that does remind me – something I said a few days ago – while many people criticise what they perceive as a lack of resolution by French and other occupied nations, I’ve yet to see one of these critics say anything about a similar stance taken by the vast majority of the (British) inhabitants of the Channel Islands.

schloss tittmoning prisoner of war camp germany may 2015But I digress.

I continue my walk around the Schloss and I’m impressed by the silence here. I seem to be the only person up here admiring the beautiful buildings.

I end up at the museum, because there is a museum on site and, as you might expect, theres a sign “Closed until 13:00”. That was rather odds-on, wasn’t it?

caliburn ford transit crossing into austria may 2015I also mentioned last night that Tittmoning was only about 400 metres from the Austrian border. So with the aim of visiting as many countries as possible, Caliburn and I cross what is a totally unguarded frontier. Hooray for the Schengen Agreement.

And despite the protests from the Lady Who Lives In The Satnav, we continue in Austria for a little while in order to see what is happening, nearly crushing a party of little kiddy learner-cyclists on our way around.

laufen crossing the border into germany may 2015After a drive of about 20 kms we cross back into Germany at the town of Laufen.

This is quite a beautiful little town, right on the border between Austria and Germany, and the two countries are linked by a gorgeous girder bridge. It was built at the turn of the 20th Century and refurbished a couple of years ago.

And if you want to know why I’m being so vague about everything, read on.

walls of laufen germany may 2015Laufen, a beautiful gated medieval city was also the site of a Prisoner-of-War camp somewhere in the vicinity. Oflag VII-C was quite a famous one from which a couple high-profile escapes were made, and which later became a civilian internment camp.

The President of the ruling council of Guernsey was one of the civilian detainees here at Laufen, and Patrick Reid, a Colditz escapee and writer of several books about P-O-W life, including the book on which the film and TV series “The Colditz story” was based, was probably the most famous military prisoner.

historic buildings laufen germany may 2015Not knowing exactly where Oflag VII-C had been situated, I wandered off to the Town Hall to make enquiries. Thats always the first port of call on any occasion such as this.

However, as anyone who has followed my adventures for any length of time might expect, The Town Hall is “closed exceptionally” today and there was no-one there.

No surprise here then.

So that was the end of that then. Back on the road once more, Caliburn and I headed to Eching, in the suburbs of Munich (and only a couple of kilometres from Dachau)

sherwood forest eching germany may 2015My old school-friend Hans runs an archery club, called Sherwood Forest, here and they have recently moved into larger premises.

It was club-night tonight so he took me along to see the activity there and I was quite impressed with the set-up. I was invited to have a go but I declined, not out of fear of showing everyone up by my prowess, but the fact that with a bow and arrow in my hand I’m a danger to everyone around me, except of course the enemy.

Now right at the very beginning, I talked about disasters. And quite right too. because on booting up the laptop to load up todays work, the laptop failed. The thing is only booting up part-way through the notmal opening cycle and then flashing up an error message “Your computer has encountered a problem and must close down. We are collecting details of the error and then your computer will restart”. And then it restarts and at exactly the same point in the boot-up process, it all starts again.

In fact, this is more than a disaster. Its a calamity. And I wish that I knew where all of my old notes were from T223, the Open University’s computer course that I followed, where we learnt (and I have since forgotten) how to hack our way into failed disks and extract all of the information.

All help on this subject will be gratefully received.

Monday 11th May 2015 – LAST NIGHT WAS ANOTHER …

motorway rest area autobahn leipzig germany may 2015… one of those nights where a bomb could have gone off in the vicinity and I wouldn’t have paid it the slightest moment of attention.

Here on this rest area on the autobahn towards Leipzig, I slept the sleep of the dead until the alarm went off at 07:30 and it was a struggle to rise up and make breakfast.

Back on the road though, with a nice hot coffee, I carried on heading south. And it didn’t take too long to arrive at my destination.

schloss colditz castle germany may 2015Here I am at Colditz Castle, and this is another one of my lifetime ambitions fulfilled. Brought up on a diet of RAF stories and PoW escape books, I’ve been wanting to come here for years.

Visits to the castle under the Communist regime were strictly discouraged and in fact most of the prisoner artefacts that were still here in 1955 had long gone by the time the Communists left.

remains of french escape tunnel schloss colditz castle germany may 2015Nevertheless, there were still plenty of surprises to come.

A digger working up on one of the courtyards suddenly disappeared from view as the courtyard collapsed underneath it. Closer inspection revealed the remains of an escape tunnel (a French one, as it happens) that the Germans had failed to uncover. Its discovery certainly took everyone, especially the digger driver, quite by surprise.

secret hidden radio installation schloss colditz castle germany may 2015Another surprise was sprung on the roofers.

When they lifted off some of the tiles to replace the roof, they found a hidden alcove with a radio receiving set from World War II still in it. This was one of the four secret radio rooms operated by the prisoners, and the only one that remained undiscovered.

french clock tower escape tunnel schloss colditz castle germany may 2015Mind you, a great deal was already known about the history of the escape plans and it just remained to actually track them down.

Perhaps the most famous tunnel was the one that involved sliding down the weight chamber of the tower clock and digging out from the cellar. This had been filled in after the Germans had discovered it, but some of it has been unfilled as you can see.

Strawberry Moose is quite interested in giving them a hand, and maybe himself escaping from the castle.

The guided tour was quite expensive, but it was worth every penny and I really enjoyed my visit.

From here I headed south and crossed into the Czech Republic. Years since I’ve been here and Caliburn has never been here at all, and you may remember from last year that I’m trying to expand Caliburn’s sphere of operations.

hotel cerny orel zatec czech republic may 2015I’ve ended up in a town called Zatec, not too far from Plzen. I was doing a tour of the town when I came across a hotel right in the centre. I couldn’t say fairer than that.

I know that I’m supposed to be sleeping in Caliburn as much as possible, but east of where the Iron Curtain used to be, the police sometimes still have attitude issues and it’s not as if the cost of living is expensive here.

town square zatec czech republic may 2015The town itself is gorgeous, although there’s plenty of evidence to suggest that the post-Communist economic miracle has not quite penetrated thoroughly into the region.

Mind you, this is the Sudetenland and the inhabitants, mostly of German origin, were ethnically cleansed out of the region in 1945-46. This might account for some of the issues here, although there’s nothing that I have seen that can detract from the beauty of the place.

There’s a fast food place across the road from the hotel so I resolved to call in on my way back from my walk so that I could pick up a plate of chips. But you can guess what has happened.

You would think that I would be used to this by now.

Sunday 10th May 2015 – AND JUST TO PROVE …

… that at times I can talk the most utter and unadulerated rubbish … "surely not" – ed

You may remember the other day at Bilstein I was going on … "and on and on etc etc" – ed … about the lack of a War Memorial to the dead of World War II and how it seemed to be that the Germans were ignoring them …

world war one world war two war memorial dossem germany may 2015So here at Dossem in the village cemetery is a War Memorial to the dead of World War I and World War II.

And to give you some idea of the suffering, then in complete contrast to the situation in the UK, there are far more dead in World War II than World War I, and I reckon that about 80% of those deaths in World War II came in the final 12 months of the war.

The situation in Germany must have been more cataclysmic for the Germans than anyone could imagine in that final 12-month period.

world war two polish dead Oflag VIB warburg dossem germany may 2015Here are some other people for whom World War II was quite cataclysmic.

The neighbourhood was home to a Prisoner of War Camp and some of the inhabitants were Polish, whose country had of course been erased from the map.

When the camp was liberated towards the end of the war, there are about 130 Poles who remained behind.

Unfortunately, they would never return home, for they were lying in the cemetery, and of those, about 84 had a very sorry tale to tell.

One Sunday evening before the xamp was liberated and they were still prisoners,, they were in the Prison chapel praying when an RAF bomber flew over to attack a nearby railway station. It missed its aim completely and the bomb that it dropped fell squarely onto the chapel.

Any time other than a Sunday late evening, the chapel would have been empty.

6B Oflag VIB warburg wire job dossem germany may 2015This is the site of the camp and the road here is the main track that ran through the camp back in those days.

Intended to be a military airfield, the site was taken over in September 1940 as a Prisoner-of-War camp and was known as Oglag VIB, or more colloquially as Warburg. Its claim to fame is that it was the site of what became known as the Warburg Wire Job, where a couple of prisoners fused the searchlights and in the darkness the remainder stormed the fences. Incredibly, three of them actually made a “home run” back to their home.

6B Oflag VIB warburg wire job dossem germany may 2015You may be forgiven for thinking that it’s a shame that there’s nothing now left of the camp, but these huts are actually on the site of huts that I once saw on the plan of the camp and for all I know, they may well be the originals.

Today, they are being used to house refugees and asylum seekers, “mitarbeiters” as the sign told me. So I suppose that it still does have a connection wit prisoners then. It’s just a shame that I couldn’t manage to go in for a wander around though.

strand hof hotel mohnesee germany may 2015This is my hotel from last night. A gorgeous place with a lovely view out over the Mohnesee and with breakfast included, it came to all of €69:00. In fact, I had to have the receptionist write down the price to make sure that I had it correct, because it really was such good value as that.

I had a couple of good showers and washed my clothes, the main reason why I stop every so often in a hotel. But if ever I’m out this way again, I’ll be making a beeline to here without a doubt.

eder dam dambusters germany may 2015On my way to Warburg I came by the Eder Dam, the third dam that the Dambusters attacked. This was another beautiful drive to reach here and the setting of the dam is totally stunning. It’s easily one of the most spectacular places that I’ve ever visited.

It must have been no mean feat to build it because its situation is such that it is a challenging environment to say the least. But the lake that they created when the steep valley was dammed was well worth the effort. It’s definitely my favourite of the three dams, although due to the steep sides of the valley, parking is rather limited.

dambusters route to eder dam germany may 2015And building it was not the only thing that was challenging. Destroying it was a monumental task.

The Lancasters had to come out of that valley to the right, behing the castle, swing hard left across the lake and then head for the dam at 240mph, settling down to a height of 60 feet as they were doing it, and releasing the bomb at about 500 yards from the dam wall. So my reckoning is that they had about half a mile to adjust themselves, which in real time is about 7 seconds

dambusters route out of eder dam germany may 2015Once they had done all of that, they then had to do the difficult bit, and that was to climb up over the mountain that is on the other side of the dam, which you can see in the photo just here.

Destroying the Eder Dam and surviving the attack was without a doubt the most challenging task that the Dambusters had, and it’s no surprise that the crews had been hand-picked for the mission. Not many aircrew could have been trusted with this attack.

dambusters eder dam bomb damage pressure buttresses germany may 2015My inexperienced eye managed to pick up a few things that are suggestive of repaired bomb damage. Parts of the parapet stone are much smoother and so probably newer that the original stonework, but it’s here at the pressure buttresses that the evidence is clearer.

If you look at the caps, you’ll notice that some of them (the ones nearer the edges) are made of stone but others (the ones nearer the centre) are made of brick. That’s my opinion anyway, for what it’s worth.

So having visited Warburg, I’m now on my way south-east. I’m in the former East Germany and while the contrast with the West isn’t as devastating as it was when I was last here in 1988, you can still see the difference, even after a quarter of a century of unification.

savonius wind turbine KD Stahl und Maschinenbau benterode germany may 2015However, there are signs of things to come.

Here at Benterode, on the site of an old coal mine, there’s a company called KD Stahl und Maschinenbau that manufacture horizontal-axis wind turbines so I went for a wander around. These need more wind to make them turn and are rather heavy on bearing wear, but for confined spaces they are quite ideal.

They had several designs available, but of course being a Sunday evening there was no-one around to talk to about them. And in any case, with the amount of German that I can remember, what chance would I have of talking to anyone?

So tonight I’m parked up on a rest area on the Autobahn to Leipzig. And tomorrow I’ll be on my way again.

Saturday 9th May 2015 – AND IF I THOUGHT …

autobahn rest area koln germany may 2015… that the other night’s sleep was something special, then I’m not sure what to say about last night’s. In bed by 22:30 after a nice meal of pasta, mushrooms and tinned veg, I remember nothing until about 06:30. Perhaps there was the odd lorry shunting around somewhere in the vicinity but I really didn’t care less.

Mind you, I was off on my travels during the night. I was a serial killer with bodies all over the place, including inside the doors of my car behind the door cards. And I remember having to move them and dispose of them properly, so extracting them from their hidey-holes was interesting, particularly as they now had the size and consistency of sausages.

After a nice leisurely breakfast of bread, jam, fruit juice and coffee, I hit the road and fahr’n fahr’n fahr’n-ed up the autobahn for my first dam.

I wasn’t on the autobahn for very long – the Lady Who Lived In The SatNav soon had me in the mountains.

german war memorial bilstein germany may 2015I came to a dead stop in the small town of Bilstein.

We saw some War memorials in Austria last year, but this is the first one that I ever recall seeing in Grmany. Interestingly, it contains names from the 1866 war against Austria and names from the 1870-71 war against France, but nothing from World War I or World War II.

Whilst World War II might in some circumstances and some quarters be considered controversial, I’m totally bewildered as to why the dead of World War I haven’t been honoured with a memorial.

As for World War II, my own opinion is that probably 99% of the German military were just as much victims of the war as anyone else and were no more guilty of war crimes than anyone else in any other army. Regardless of the cause that they fought for, their individual sacrifice should still be commemorated and I reckon that they deserve a memorial.

rohrenspring germany may 2015From there, the Lady Who Lives In The SatNav took me right into the mountains and over some stunning roads (some of which I was obliged to decline).

There were some beautiful things to see too, such as the village of Rohrenspring – just one of a thousand places that I could have stopped to photograph had there been anywhere convenient to park.

Still, I arrived at the Sorpe Dam soon enough and had a good drive round.

dambusters sorpe dam langscheid germany may 2015And it’s easy to see why it is that, despite the importance of the Sorpe Dam, the dambusters were unable to breach the dam.

They couldn’t fly along the length of the dam (although I’m not sure why as it’s a clear “in and out) but came in over the church steeple, dropped their bombs and then climbed up and out of the valley.

and you’ll notice the dam – on the right-hand edge of the photo about halfway up. There isn’t much to aim at, is there?

Only one of the bombs hit the dam and that did no more than damage the parapet. And there isn’t any evidence that I could see of the damage.

dambusters composite photo seating bays sorpe dam langscheid germany may 2015However if you notice the photo, it’s actually a composite photo. Some of the seating bays have stone walls and facings and are clearly the original onces. Some others have wrought iron railings.

It’s tempting to think that the wrought iron ones are the modern ones built as a cheap temporary measure to replace original ones destroyed in the blast.

dambusters sorpe dam barrage langscheid germany may 2015However, you can see how much water is in here judging by the height and the weight of the barrage here.

That really is an impressive structure and had the dambusters been able to let that lot go, there would have been a catastrophe. But they were always on a hiding to nothing with an earthen-banked dam. The earth would simply absorb the shock of the explosion.

dambusters mohne dam germany may 2015From there, I went to look at the Mohne Dam.

This was the classic dam, the one about which everone has heard and which collapsed in dramatic fashion after three direct hits. The planes had to fly at a height of about 60 feet at 240 mph right between the two towers, which were equipped with machine guns, and drop a bouncing bomb in a precise position.

dambusters mohne dam germany may 201530 years or so ago, you could still see where the stone from the new repair work differed from the original.

Today, however, I couldn’t see any difference at all, despite having a good luck around. But what did impress me was that within just a mere 4 months, this dam had been rebuilt of sorts and was back doing its job again.

And that’s the big issue with the British Bombing campaign. If it didn’t involve the gratuitous killing of defenceless civilians, “Bomber” Harris dismissed it as a “panacea target” and refused to carry it out, even when presented with a direct order.

Once the dams had been bombed, Harris abandoned them, when it was odds-on that they would be rebuilt. Anyone normal would have had high-level bombng raids every week to damage the rebuilding, and that was what most of the Germans expected.

Most except Alber Speer, that is. The German Minister of Economic Planning was well-aware that Harris would never come back to the dams (there was one further raid on the Sorpe Dam with the huge earthquake bombs, but they didn’t work and in any case it was far too late to influence the outcome of the war) and that they could be rebuilt in peace.

And now I’ve found a hotel right on the shore of the lake, with the water lapping at my feet, and this is where I’m staying the night.