Category Archives: koln

Saturday 16th March 2019 – I’VE SPENT …

gestapo headquarters LD house appellhofplatz koln cologne germany… the afternoon in Gestapo headquarters in Koln. And all that I can say is that these 17.4 million racist xenophobes who voted to kick out the foreigners from their country ought to go along and visit it too.

We’ve seen the Biffers and UKRAP and Nigel Garbage doing things like refusing to shop in places run by Muslems, boycotting shops selling halal food, defacing mosques and the like, and no-one bats an eyelid.

You only have to compare what’s going on in the Fascist Paradise that is the UK today and compare it with what happened in Germany 1933-1945 to see some alarming similarities.

Everyone stood by and watched back then, and we had stupid, naive politicians waving pieces of paper about. And look how it all ended up because of this inaction. It’s getting to the stage where the ordinary citizens need to rise up and take matters into their own hands otherwise we’ll all be back here again.

Who will ever forget Martin Niemoller’s famous words?

First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the trade unionists, and I did not speak out— because I was not a trade unionist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Last night I had, for a change, a reasonably good sleep last night. From about 22:45 to the alarm at 06:00 with a brief awakening at 03:45.

I’d been on my travels too, with a couple of people making their debuts. What we were doing was cutting up an onion into very fine particles whilesomeone else was preparing hot dogs or hamburgers. We had to remove all of the skin and everything else from the onion and that wasn’t easy although mine seemed to disappear quite quickly. And then wait.And I noticed that my onion was starting to congeal so I pointed this out to one of the women who was there. The conversation moved on and some guy joined in the discussion. He was a guy with whom I’d played guitar a couple of times in the Auvergne but with blond hair and this chat developed into some kind of problematic discussion about how he was going to join the Good Ship Ve… errr … Ocean Endeavour somewhere out between the Faroe islands and Iceland given the really poor weather. he then started to talk about his period in the Swedish Army which might explain his blond hair and strange accent. Mantime someone came down the corridor between the office desks shouting for someone – someone I knew on the Wirral. A girl piped up that “he sits here next to me, but he’s not at his desk right now. You can tell that it’s his desk because of the stuff on it.”.

push me pull you sncb class 18 railway locomotive leuven belgiumThere was the usual medication and breakfast and then I headed off to the station. Alison was already there so we headed off together to our platform for the train.

It was the 08:28 to Eupen, but we were only going as far as Liège.

There at Liège Guillemins railway station we alighted and waited for the German Inter-City Express to come in from Brussels.

ice express hauptbahnhof koln cologne germanyAnd we made a slight miscalculation in that the train was a lot shorted than the one from which we had alighted.

We had to run (and you’ve no idea how difficult it is for me to run these days, but at least I managed it) half-way down the platform to leap aboard it.

We were 10 minutes late arriving in Köln, so I imagine that there’s a few more railway employees sent off to the Ostfront. But it didn’t really matter because the train was just so comfortable – even compared to the best of the TGVs.

hohenzollernbrucke cathedral koln cologne germanyAlison and I went for a coffee and then walked round the cathedral to check on the Roman paving that I had seen last time that I was here. We then continued up to the Hohenzollernbrucke.

By now the rain had stopped so we stood on the bridge to admire the barges passing by underneath.

And then up-river on the eastern bank to see a few things that I had noticed last time.

roman temple heumarkt metro station koln cologne germanyBack across the river on the Deutzerbrucke, stopping to take a few more photos of a few more barges, then Alison went for a wander around a few shops while I disappeared into the bowels of the Heumarkt metro station to look at the church tower that I saw last time.

While I was down there I stumbled over the ruins of a Roman temple from round about 100BC. This was uncovered during the construction of the Metro here

Unfortunately they haven’t been able to discover to which god the temple was dedicated

A couple more shops and then back to the Hauptbahnhof to meet Jackie.

We ended up at Mama’s Trattoria, an Italian restaurant that I had found on the internet. It advertised vegan and gluten-free meals. And what an inspired choice it was because there was plenty of choice and my penne al arrabiata was totally delicious.

gestapo headquarters LD house appellhofplatz koln cologne germanyFrom there, round to the Gestapo museum, and what a frightful place that was. It’s hard to imagine a series of prison cells about 1.5 metres by 3 metres and 30 people at a time crammed in each one there for a couple of weeks on end.

The only time they would ever be allowed out would be for a good round of torture and, eventually, being hanged or beheaded in the courtyard.

As I said, the idea that 17.4 million people have voted for a return to those unspeakable times is something that fills me full of dread.

A nice walk, another coffee and a few more shops saw us back at the railway station in time for another drink and then our trains home.

gare leige guillemins belgiumWe had to change trains at Liège Guillemins station again for our train back to Leuven.

There was a 10-minute wait for our train and so that gave me plenty of opportunity to have a look round and take a few photographs.

The station is certainly out-of-the-ordinary and looks even better at night when it’s all illiminated.

Back finally at leuven Alison caught the bus home and I grabbed a falafel durum to eat on the way home.

167% of my daily activity and it feels like it too. So I’m off to bed where I intend to sleep until I wake up.

Sunday 23rd December 2018 – SO THAT’S ANOTHER .

… thing crossed off my list of things to do.

Back in the early 1970s when I first started coming over to Oostende, I was always puzzled by the train that was waiting at the station for the passengers. Its destination was always Welkenraedt and I didn’t have a clue where Welkenraedt was.

gare welkenraedt belgiumA little later I had a look for where Welkenraedt might be. It’s a small town nestled in the Ardennes miles from anywhere.

That puzzled me even more as to why the boat trains from Oostende would be going there.
I eventually found the reason. It’s a junction station where lines from Spa and from Eupen come in.

But more importantly, it’s the last station of any importance before the German border. The electricity current in Germany used to be different to that in Belgium, so that was where the Belgian engine came off, and then a German locomotive would be attached to take the train on into Europe.

gare welkenraedt belgiumAlison and I went to Welkenraedt on one of our excursions out back in July to see what was going on. But it was always my ambition, strange though it might seem, to change trains there.

So here I am, on a windswept, soaking wet freezing platform huddled under a tiny shelter at Welkenraedt in the middle of winter waiting for a train to come in.

And no coffee for miles around either

bondgenotenlaan leuven louvain belgiumDespite it being Sunday I’d left the alarm connected and at 06:00 it duly rang. No breakfast, no medication, just packing my backpack and then out into the dark, stopping off on the way to take a few photos of around the station area because I had plenty of time..

At 07:24 the train to Eupen came into the station and I leapt aboard. And at Welkenraedt I hopped out. These days the trains don’t go on into Europe but go round to Eupen.

We had to wait for a diesel multiple-unit to come rattling in from Spa.

automotrice sncb 644 653 gare welkenraedt belgiumWe didn’t have long to wait until this filthy, dirty disreputable ancient thing came staggering into the station.

Old, covered in grafitti and all kinds of things, and the train was even worse. I’d be ashamed to be seen in something like this, and the idea that the SNCB would be content to send such a machine into a foreign country where it could be compared with the pristine stuff on offer over there is an absurdity to say the least.

But here it was and here I was. So I climbed aboard and rattled off into Germany.

hauptbahnhof aachen germanyHere I am finally in Germany, in Aachen in fact, at the Hauptbahnhof.

I have to change trains here, and there’s a wait of about 20 minutes for my connection, so there is plenty of time for breakfast.

German bread is probably the best in the world and so a couple of bread rolls of different varieties and a coffee were just what the doctor ordered.

hauptbahnhof cologne koln germanyMy next train was already in the station. A newish double-decker that put the SNCB offering to shame. This rolled off out of the station, 10 seconds late, and an hour later, I was in Koln.

That was where I took this photograph, by the way.

Interestingly, the announcements on the train were in German followed by English. I imagined what might be the response from the xenophobic racist Brexiters if this kind of cosmopolitanism were ever to happen in the UK.

cathedral cologne koln germanyIt’s years since I’ve been to Koln. About 2007 if my memory serves me correctly.

Looking for something to do to pass the time, I’d been idly scanning through the SNCB website and I found that a voyage by train from Leuven to Köln and return would cost me a mere €68:00 – that’s a four-hundred kilometre round trip.

With nothing much happening in Belgium, I decided to come for a day out.

cathedral bahnhofsvorplatz cologne koln germanyI spent a couple of hours wandering around the city, visiting all of the places that I had visited on my previous trips. But at midday I had to return to the cathedral.

When I was chair of the North European Regional Forum of Open University students, one of the committee members lived here in Koln. And by coincidence she was a big friend of my old friend Liz. Hence the regular visits to Koln. Jackie and I hadn’t seen each other since those days, but she had heard that I was coming to Koln and we were going to meet for lunch.

It was at that moment that the heavens opened. As I picked my way through the crowds I was becoming wetter and wetter, and so I was glad to meet Jackie and go for a coffee.

When the rain eased off a little we headed off into the town and an Italian restaurant. It was a strange place for an Italian restaurant. They wouldn’t do me a plate of vegetables with pasta and tomato sauce. I got the pasta and the tomato sauce, but they couldn’t do the vegetables. That can only mean one thing, as I’m sure that the more astute readers will realise.

christmas market markt der engel neumarkt cologne koln germanyBy now the rain was coming down even worse, but we headed off regardless. Down the main shopping street and through a couple of the Christmas markets, looking at the products on sale.

We ended up at a hot drinks stall. Jackie had a gluhwein and I had a hot cocktail. The mugs were beautiful so we forewent the deposit and I took them away in my backpack.

Jackie’s partner came down to meet us. They were off to a carol concert at the end of the afternoon so I said goodbye

barge river rhine deutzerbrucke cologne koln germanyNow on my own, I retraced my steps back through the markets and down to the River Rhine, thinking that I could have done with a good Rhinecoat.

I walked up along the side of the river and then up the steps to the Hohenzollern Bridge – the huge railway bridge with a pedestrian footpath that straddles the river.

It was a dismal dreary walk in the dark and the rain but even so, it’s good to stand there in mid-stream and watch the fleets of barges and cruise ships passing by underneath.

breslauerplatz hauptbahnhof cologne koln germanyEventually I found myself back at the railway station. And to my dismay, the rear of the station has all been cleared up and modernised and the excellent fritkot that I remembered from the past has been swept away.

Nevertheless I did manage to fit myself up with some food. Back inside the station, I found a Thai restaurant in the subterranean shopping gallery that had a range of vegetarian and vegan food.

I had a stir-fry tofu with rice and it was really good.

dbag class 146 locomotive hauptbahnhof cologne koln germanyMy train was a few minutes early and already in the platform. To my surprise it was pulled by the same locomotive that had brought me out.

I hopped aboard and grabbed myself a comfortable seat. And here I had an interesting encounter with a German ticket-collector. It had been so wet that the damp atmosphere had caused the ink on my rail ticket to run and he couldn’t read it.

In the end, reason prevailed.

automotrice sncb 644 653 gare welkenraedt belgiumAnother wait at Aachen for an even more disreputable Belgian multiple-unit. And which, surprisingly (or maybe not) it was likewise the same one that had brought me out.

There was graffiti all over the inside of the train and rubbish strewn all over the floor. Not a very good advert for the SNCB, sending atrain like this across the border into foreign parts.

And then another wait on the cold and wet at Welkenraedt for my train back to Leuven.

So now, I’m back home, looking and feeling like one more haggard, drowned rat, although I had no idea where I would find one more haggard drowned rat at this time of night.

And straight off to bed because I have the hospital in the morning and I need to be on form.

On my travels today, I took well over 100 photos. Some are in the text and some more below.

But if you want to see the rest, I’ve prepared a web page where you can see them in all their sodding and dripping glory, such as it was.

christmas lights tiensevest leuven louvain belgium
christmas lights tiensevest leuven louvain belgium

christmas lights tiensevest leuven louvain belgium
christmas lights tiensevest leuven louvain belgium

martelarenplein leuven louvain belgium
martelarenplein leuven louvain belgium

railway station war memorial martelarenplein leuven louvain belgium
railway station war memorial martelarenplein leuven louvain belgium

war memorial railway station martelarenplein leuven louvain belgium
war memorial railway station martelarenplein leuven louvain belgium

war memorial martelarenplein leuven louvain belgium
war memorial martelarenplein leuven louvain belgium

railway station martelarenplein leuven louvain belgium
railway station martelarenplein leuven louvain belgium

train station leuven louvain belgium
train station leuven louvain belgium

hauptbahnhof aachen germany
hauptbahnhof aachen germany

hauptbahnhof aachen germany
hauptbahnhof aachen germany

automotrice sncb 644 653 hauptbahnhof aachen germany
automotrice sncb 644 653 hauptbahnhof aachen germany

Saturday 9th May 2015 – AND IF I THOUGHT …

autobahn rest area koln germany may 2015… that the other night’s sleep was something special, then I’m not sure what to say about last night’s. In bed by 22:30 after a nice meal of pasta, mushrooms and tinned veg, I remember nothing until about 06:30. Perhaps there was the odd lorry shunting around somewhere in the vicinity but I really didn’t care less.

Mind you, I was off on my travels during the night. I was a serial killer with bodies all over the place, including inside the doors of my car behind the door cards. And I remember having to move them and dispose of them properly, so extracting them from their hidey-holes was interesting, particularly as they now had the size and consistency of sausages.

After a nice leisurely breakfast of bread, jam, fruit juice and coffee, I hit the road and fahr’n fahr’n fahr’n-ed up the autobahn for my first dam.

I wasn’t on the autobahn for very long – the Lady Who Lived In The SatNav soon had me in the mountains.

german war memorial bilstein germany may 2015I came to a dead stop in the small town of Bilstein.

We saw some War memorials in Austria last year, but this is the first one that I ever recall seeing in Grmany. Interestingly, it contains names from the 1866 war against Austria and names from the 1870-71 war against France, but nothing from World War I or World War II.

Whilst World War II might in some circumstances and some quarters be considered controversial, I’m totally bewildered as to why the dead of World War I haven’t been honoured with a memorial.

As for World War II, my own opinion is that probably 99% of the German military were just as much victims of the war as anyone else and were no more guilty of war crimes than anyone else in any other army. Regardless of the cause that they fought for, their individual sacrifice should still be commemorated and I reckon that they deserve a memorial.

rohrenspring germany may 2015From there, the Lady Who Lives In The SatNav took me right into the mountains and over some stunning roads (some of which I was obliged to decline).

There were some beautiful things to see too, such as the village of Rohrenspring – just one of a thousand places that I could have stopped to photograph had there been anywhere convenient to park.

Still, I arrived at the Sorpe Dam soon enough and had a good drive round.

dambusters sorpe dam langscheid germany may 2015And it’s easy to see why it is that, despite the importance of the Sorpe Dam, the dambusters were unable to breach the dam.

They couldn’t fly along the length of the dam (although I’m not sure why as it’s a clear “in and out) but came in over the church steeple, dropped their bombs and then climbed up and out of the valley.

and you’ll notice the dam – on the right-hand edge of the photo about halfway up. There isn’t much to aim at, is there?

Only one of the bombs hit the dam and that did no more than damage the parapet. And there isn’t any evidence that I could see of the damage.

dambusters composite photo seating bays sorpe dam langscheid germany may 2015However if you notice the photo, it’s actually a composite photo. Some of the seating bays have stone walls and facings and are clearly the original onces. Some others have wrought iron railings.

It’s tempting to think that the wrought iron ones are the modern ones built as a cheap temporary measure to replace original ones destroyed in the blast.

dambusters sorpe dam barrage langscheid germany may 2015However, you can see how much water is in here judging by the height and the weight of the barrage here.

That really is an impressive structure and had the dambusters been able to let that lot go, there would have been a catastrophe. But they were always on a hiding to nothing with an earthen-banked dam. The earth would simply absorb the shock of the explosion.

dambusters mohne dam germany may 2015From there, I went to look at the Mohne Dam.

This was the classic dam, the one about which everone has heard and which collapsed in dramatic fashion after three direct hits. The planes had to fly at a height of about 60 feet at 240 mph right between the two towers, which were equipped with machine guns, and drop a bouncing bomb in a precise position.

dambusters mohne dam germany may 201530 years or so ago, you could still see where the stone from the new repair work differed from the original.

Today, however, I couldn’t see any difference at all, despite having a good luck around. But what did impress me was that within just a mere 4 months, this dam had been rebuilt of sorts and was back doing its job again.

And that’s the big issue with the British Bombing campaign. If it didn’t involve the gratuitous killing of defenceless civilians, “Bomber” Harris dismissed it as a “panacea target” and refused to carry it out, even when presented with a direct order.

Once the dams had been bombed, Harris abandoned them, when it was odds-on that they would be rebuilt. Anyone normal would have had high-level bombng raids every week to damage the rebuilding, and that was what most of the Germans expected.

Most except Alber Speer, that is. The German Minister of Economic Planning was well-aware that Harris would never come back to the dams (there was one further raid on the Sorpe Dam with the huge earthquake bombs, but they didn’t work and in any case it was far too late to influence the outcome of the war) and that they could be rebuilt in peace.

And now I’ve found a hotel right on the shore of the lake, with the water lapping at my feet, and this is where I’m staying the night.

Friday 8th May 2015 – HERE …

caliburn overnight sleep stop heverlee leuven louvain belgium.. is where I spent last night – at a motorway service area at Heverlee, near Leuven. And I slept the sleep of the dead too – totally painless it was. Didn’t feel a thing.

And even better, there was a nice hot shower available too. And didn’t I enjoy that? I haven’t felt so good in ages.

Mind you, I forgot to buy a bottle of water and so my morning coffee, in a roadside rest area while they cleared away an accident down the road, and coffee made with sparkling water is certainly different, that’s for sure.

I wasted the morning not doing very much at all, and then met up with Alison for lunch. Alison and I worked together for an American company for almost a year, and we both walked out at more-or-less the same time. And for the same reasons – basically that American companies have no idea of the notion of cultivating staff loyalty, and rule their employees by fear. There’s no place in my environment, nor in Alison’s environment either, for an attitude such as that, and we can’t understand why it is that other people allow themselves to be pushed around.

marianne orban grave ixelles brussels belgiumAfterwards, I went to check up on Marianne and to have a chat. It’s hard to believe that it’s two years since she passed away, but then at this sort of age time passes quickly.

It seems that I wasn’t the only person to go to visit her either, for there were a couple of other pots of flowers that had been left on her grave. I’m glad that she hasn’t been forgotten and that she is being looked after by people locally. It’s not feasible for me to come to Brussels to tend to her as often as I like.

civilian victims of the gestapo ixelles brussels belgiumIt’s also VE day today – the end of the War in Europe, so it’s only right to go to pay a visit to the interred in another part of the cemetery here at Ixelles. There are some military graves here, but there are also some graves of civilian victims of the Gestapo.

There are many people, one or two of my acquaintances amongst them unfortunately, who criticise the French and the Belgians, and a few other people too, for what they see as a lack of resolution by the population of those countries when it came to resisting the German invaders.

But if you have a look at these gravestones, you’ll see fusillé – “shot”, or executé – executed, or decapité – decapitated. These were the risks that people were running every day for four and a half years of the Occupation, so it’s hard to be as resolute as some might like when you are risking all of this.

And, of course, it’s very easy to beat the drum when there’s an ocean between you and the invader. I’d be interested to see just how brave these critics would have been had they been over here amongst the Gestapo during the Occupation.

I braved the rush-hour traffic and set out for Germany. I’d forgotten just how busy the roads could be on a Friday afternoon and I’m glad that I’m no longer involved in any of this.
crossing the border Belgium Liege Aachen GermanyAnd here I am crossing the border into Germany not too far from Aachen at the back of Liege.

The camera on my new phone has quite a high resolution and isn’t far off what the Nikon D5000 can come up with on a good day. It’s also easy to use on the move so moving pictures are back with us again.

However, I needed to be careful. Can you make out the blue flashing lights just down the road? I wouldn’t have been surprised if they had been waiting for me.

It seems that I have entered my destinations into the Satnav in the wrong order and it’s doing the route backwards. That’s clearly no good so I need to change it all. At a rest area at the side of the Autobahn I pulled up to reprogramme it, but then I thought “what they heck” and it’s here where I’m going to be bedding down, German police permitting.

And talking of the Police, I’ve managed this year to avoid having a run-in with the Belgian police this year. Either my luck was in or else they must have been all asleep.