Tag Archives: prisoner of war camp

Saturday 8th August 2020 – IT’S FAR TOO HOT …

… to do anything right now. This afternoon, the temperature on the thermometer on the van showed 41°C at one point and that was confirmed by one of these roadside thermometers so I’m sure that it was correct.

hotel senica slovakia eric hallLast night was a really good sleep, and I slept right up to 05:47 when something awoke me – but I’m not sure what.

Nevertheless, I didn’t actually leave the bed at that time but … errr … somewhat later.

According to the dictaphone, I’d been on my travels too during the night. I had been going somewhere, driving and I was in Caliburn, I think. I was being followed by an old Morgan 3-wheeler with a couple in it, driven by a guy with a red handlebar moustache. They were piled up with luggage and seemed to be following me throughout all of my route across Central Europe and it was very interesting although I didn’t exchange a single word with them or anything like that and it was very intriguing to try to work out exactly what they were doing

And later on it was Welsh Cup day and there were 12 matches being played. 2 were postponed and some were being played later. We were going to go to Aberystwyth to watch the game. They were talking about this on the TV and radio which was nice. I was in Nantwich somewhere so I set off to walk. I got to round about Gresty, somewhere like that and there was a football stadium and there was quite a big queue outside. I climbed over the fence to get in, about 12′ high and I’m not quite sure why I would do that. I was hoping to meet the others, including my father apparently and we’d all go into the ground together. For some unknown reason it was half an hour to kick-off and I couldn’t find them at all. I wondered what had happened to them.

Having organised myself and packed my stuff, I said goodbye to my nice hotel and set off.

First port of call was the Billa Supermarket down the road where i bought some food for the journey – including some grapes. And bread was cheap too here in Slovakia, as I discovered.

Another thing was that I was impressed with the range of vegan food on offer – much better than anything that France could come up with in a mainstream village supermarket.

It’s a shame that I’m leaving the country today. I’ve always liked Slovakia. I spent several weeks here in the North-East of the country on the Polish border when I worked with Shearings and one of these days I’ll try to find the time to spend much more time here.

Having done the shopping for the next couple of days (I can’t buy too much and expect it to survive long in this heat) I set off and drove all the way south-eastwards through the mountains.

Driving through the town of Boleraz I had to do a U-turn and go back to check on something that I’d seen in someone’s garden here.

One thing that’s disappointed me is the absence of real Eastern European cars around here. No Gaz or ZIL vehicles, only one Skoda and not even any Moskvitches either come to that. I can’t believe that a whole lifetime of interesting vehicles has been wiped out of existence.

skoda 1203 van boleraz slovakia eric hallAnd so when I saw this old Skoda 1203 I breathed a sigh of relief.

This was Eastern Europe’s equivalent of the Ford Transit. Every businessman or tradesman owned one and they were the local ambulances and police vans too. You used to find them everywhere 30 years ago, but so far on my travels I’ve only seen one of them prior to this and that was on the road heading the other way.

Not that I would swap Caliburn of course, but I would love to take something like this back home with me to have some fun. It’s a real relic of the past, that’s for sure, and quite a curio too.

odos FOR 742 525 9 velky meder slovakia eric hallBy-passing Bratislava, I ended up in the town of Velky Meder on the border with Hungary.

A railway like runs through the town and there’s a railway station here so I reckoned that I would go along and see what was happening her. And my luck was in because there was a goods train here in the siding.

The locomotive pulling it is an FOR type 742 – a heavy shunter built for Czech Railways and now used all over the Czech Republic and Slovakia for hauling small freight trains and on occasion even passenger trains. It’s painted in the livery of the Ostravská Dopravní Spolecnost – a freight logisitics company from Ostrava in the Czech Republic.

The railway station and the surrounding area have a very sinister reputation, something that is quite ironic seeing as currently back at home I’m reading a book about the Serbian nation in World War I.

After the collapse of the Serbian Army in 1915 the Serbian soldiers, as well as a great many civilians, who didn’t manage to escape to Greece were arrested and subjected to a most appalling savagery by the Austrian troops. A Prisoner-of-War camp or, to be more precise, a death camp was set up here and there are mass graves all over the area that contain the remains of the Dead.

No-one knows how many Serbians and Montenegrin troops lost their lives here but a monument nearby records the names of over 5,000e known to have died here. I wasn’t able to find the monument or any of the graves while I was here. My Slovak isn’t up to anything much – certainly not for asking about this.

But on another note, if you come this way, don’t go looking for a town called Velky Meder because you probably won’t see a sign for it. You’re more likely to see a sign for Nagymegyer.

That’s because although we are north of the Danube, the frontier between Slovakia and Hungary, this whole area for a considerable number of miles around is ethnically Hungarian but was occupied by Czech Nationalist forces at the end of World War I.

During the Nazi occupation of Czechoslovakia it was awarded to Hungary but recovered in 1945. Even despite the forced relocation of many ethnic minorities in the late 1940s the population is almost entirely ethnically Hungarian and almost everything is written in Hungarian.

So even had I been able to ask for the monument or the graves in Slovak, it probably wouldn’t have done me any good.

There was a LIDL in the vicinity so I stopped for a look around, and then crossed over into Hungary near the town at Gyor

Unfortunately there was nowhere suitable to park to take a photo of the border crossing so in due course I’ll pinch a still from the dashcam and post it. Even so, it’s more new territory for Caliburn and Strawberry Moose to visit.

Gyor was a nice place to drive around but there was nowhere to park and take a photo of the town. And in any case it was far too hot to go for a walk. I was melting.

Caliburn lunch stop Mákosdulo utca Gyor 9025 Hungary eric hall. In the end I found a nice sheltered spot by a small lake on the edge of town.

Here, wedged up in the shade between Caliburn and a hedge I ate my butty and afterwards did a little tidying up. And while I was here, I had a little snooze in the sun. I was at one point thinking about going for a walk in the sun but not in this temperature.

As an aside, I didn’t find out anything about this lake except that it’s one of about three or four in the immediate vicinity. And they all look very artificial to me although of course I wouldn’t know about that.

austin maestro Autós Motoros Oktatópálya gyor hungary eric hallOn the way to my parking place I’d seen a dirt road that crossed a railway line and then seemed to follow the river so I decided to go for a drive.

But I ended up stopping at the side of the road by an area that looked as if it might be a car park or something like that. For in there, parked and partially dismantled with no engine by the looks of things is an old Austin Maestro.

There are many vehicles that I would never expect to see in Eastern Europe, for sure, but the possibility of finding an Austin Maestro is something that I wouldn’t have ever considered. It’s certainly living up to its model name as a “Special” and I notice that it comes with factory-standard body rot.

caliburn dirt road river raba rabapatona hungary eric hallFurther along the road I turned off, crossed the railway line and drove down as far as I could go until I reached the river, when I turned right to follow it for a while.

The river is the River Raba, a 300 kilometre long tributary of the Danube, and the part that I am following seems to be a canalised deviation of it. Where I’m driving looks as if it might be a service track on top of a levee and the amount of dust and gravel that I’m kicking up reminds me all too much of driving along THE TRANS LABRADOR HIGHWAY.

The road went for miles and I was reaching the stage where I was wondering whether I would have to turn around and go back the way that I came. However eventually I came to a house at the side of the track and wheeltracks of a couple of vehicles heading my way convinced me to carry on.

war memorial rabapatona hungary eric hallEventually, having passed underneath a couple of other main roads that crossed the river on bridges, I came to an exit that brought me into the little town of Rabapatona.

The road into the centre of the village brought me past the church and there, in the churchyard, was a war memorial so I went to have a look at it.

It lists the dead of the village for the two World Wars, so there’s nothing special about that. It might have been interesting to see the dead from other conflicts too.

But what really caught my eye was what wasn’t on the memorial. If you look closely at the base of the memorial there’s a patch of a different colour. It made me wonder if there had been something affixed there that is deemed today to be inappropriate. All kinds of shenanigans occurred with Hungary and its political partners between 1848 and 1990.

moskvitch 2141 aleko pickup rabapatona hungary eric hallHaving moaned on earlier in the day about the lack of old Eastern Bloc cars to be found these days, I struck it lucky in Rabapatona.

This exciting looking vehicle is a Moskvitch 2141 Aleko, built during the period 1986-1997. Based somewhat on the old French Simca 1307, the early models were said to have been some of the best cars ever to have come out of the Soviet Union although after the end of Communism, anarchy at the car plant led to a rapid deterioration of quality of the later ones.

Although the saloon cars were quite popular, I can say without fear of contradiction that this is the first ever Aleko pick-up that I’ve ever seen. I didn’t even realise that they were made.

Fighting off the heat (in mid-afternoon it reached 41°C according to two different thermometers) I found my way out of the town and into the countryside, disturbing a wedding as I drove through another small town.

And eventually I managed to track down a hotel – the Hotel Minerva in Mosonmagyarovar. Another lovely 3-star hotel at a bargain price and the first time that I’ve spent a night in Hungary since 1988.

First thing was to have a shower and wash of my clothes, and then I crashed out on the bed for a couple of hours. Rosemary awoke me with a phone call so we had a chat for a while, but I was too late to make any tea.

If the heat lets me, I’ll have a good sleep and then I’ll be ready to move on tomorrow.

Time to think about going home, I reckon.

Wednesday 13th May 2015 – IT’S USUALLY FRIDAY …

… the 13th that is the day for things going wrong. So Wednesday 13th must be the day reserve for disasters because, believe me, we’ve had one of those today – and a major one at that too.

view of tittmoning germany from castle schloss  may 2015In fact it started off as we meant to go along. I had climbed most of the way up to the Schloss here at Tittmoning and it was on stopping to take my first photo that I realised that I had forgotten to put the memory card back in the camera last night.

Consequently I had to walk all the way back down to Caliburn, recover the memory card from the laptop, fit it into the camera, and climb back up the hill.

schloss tittmoning prisoner of war camp germany may 2015Finally I made it into the Schloss and had a good wander around.

I did mention last night that it had something of a sinister reputation. This was where British civilian internees, including many people deported by the Germans from the Channel Islands, ended up if they had been naughty, and if they were naughty here, the next (and final) stop was inevitably Buchenwald.

And that does remind me – something I said a few days ago – while many people criticise what they perceive as a lack of resolution by French and other occupied nations, I’ve yet to see one of these critics say anything about a similar stance taken by the vast majority of the (British) inhabitants of the Channel Islands.

schloss tittmoning prisoner of war camp germany may 2015But I digress.

I continue my walk around the Schloss and I’m impressed by the silence here. I seem to be the only person up here admiring the beautiful buildings.

I end up at the museum, because there is a museum on site and, as you might expect, theres a sign “Closed until 13:00”. That was rather odds-on, wasn’t it?

caliburn ford transit crossing into austria may 2015I also mentioned last night that Tittmoning was only about 400 metres from the Austrian border. So with the aim of visiting as many countries as possible, Caliburn and I cross what is a totally unguarded frontier. Hooray for the Schengen Agreement.

And despite the protests from the Lady Who Lives In The Satnav, we continue in Austria for a little while in order to see what is happening, nearly crushing a party of little kiddy learner-cyclists on our way around.

laufen crossing the border into germany may 2015After a drive of about 20 kms we cross back into Germany at the town of Laufen.

This is quite a beautiful little town, right on the border between Austria and Germany, and the two countries are linked by a gorgeous girder bridge. It was built at the turn of the 20th Century and refurbished a couple of years ago.

And if you want to know why I’m being so vague about everything, read on.

walls of laufen germany may 2015Laufen, a beautiful gated medieval city was also the site of a Prisoner-of-War camp somewhere in the vicinity. Oflag VII-C was quite a famous one from which a couple high-profile escapes were made, and which later became a civilian internment camp.

The President of the ruling council of Guernsey was one of the civilian detainees here at Laufen, and Patrick Reid, a Colditz escapee and writer of several books about P-O-W life, including the book on which the film and TV series “The Colditz story” was based, was probably the most famous military prisoner.

historic buildings laufen germany may 2015Not knowing exactly where Oflag VII-C had been situated, I wandered off to the Town Hall to make enquiries. Thats always the first port of call on any occasion such as this.

However, as anyone who has followed my adventures for any length of time might expect, The Town Hall is “closed exceptionally” today and there was no-one there.

No surprise here then.

So that was the end of that then. Back on the road once more, Caliburn and I headed to Eching, in the suburbs of Munich (and only a couple of kilometres from Dachau)

sherwood forest eching germany may 2015My old school-friend Hans runs an archery club, called Sherwood Forest, here and they have recently moved into larger premises.

It was club-night tonight so he took me along to see the activity there and I was quite impressed with the set-up. I was invited to have a go but I declined, not out of fear of showing everyone up by my prowess, but the fact that with a bow and arrow in my hand I’m a danger to everyone around me, except of course the enemy.

Now right at the very beginning, I talked about disasters. And quite right too. because on booting up the laptop to load up todays work, the laptop failed. The thing is only booting up part-way through the notmal opening cycle and then flashing up an error message “Your computer has encountered a problem and must close down. We are collecting details of the error and then your computer will restart”. And then it restarts and at exactly the same point in the boot-up process, it all starts again.

In fact, this is more than a disaster. Its a calamity. And I wish that I knew where all of my old notes were from T223, the Open University’s computer course that I followed, where we learnt (and I have since forgotten) how to hack our way into failed disks and extract all of the information.

All help on this subject will be gratefully received.

Monday 11th May 2015 – LAST NIGHT WAS ANOTHER …

motorway rest area autobahn leipzig germany may 2015… one of those nights where a bomb could have gone off in the vicinity and I wouldn’t have paid it the slightest moment of attention.

Here on this rest area on the autobahn towards Leipzig, I slept the sleep of the dead until the alarm went off at 07:30 and it was a struggle to rise up and make breakfast.

Back on the road though, with a nice hot coffee, I carried on heading south. And it didn’t take too long to arrive at my destination.

schloss colditz castle germany may 2015Here I am at Colditz Castle, and this is another one of my lifetime ambitions fulfilled. Brought up on a diet of RAF stories and PoW escape books, I’ve been wanting to come here for years.

Visits to the castle under the Communist regime were strictly discouraged and in fact most of the prisoner artefacts that were still here in 1955 had long gone by the time the Communists left.

remains of french escape tunnel schloss colditz castle germany may 2015Nevertheless, there were still plenty of surprises to come.

A digger working up on one of the courtyards suddenly disappeared from view as the courtyard collapsed underneath it. Closer inspection revealed the remains of an escape tunnel (a French one, as it happens) that the Germans had failed to uncover. Its discovery certainly took everyone, especially the digger driver, quite by surprise.

secret hidden radio installation schloss colditz castle germany may 2015Another surprise was sprung on the roofers.

When they lifted off some of the tiles to replace the roof, they found a hidden alcove with a radio receiving set from World War II still in it. This was one of the four secret radio rooms operated by the prisoners, and the only one that remained undiscovered.

french clock tower escape tunnel schloss colditz castle germany may 2015Mind you, a great deal was already known about the history of the escape plans and it just remained to actually track them down.

Perhaps the most famous tunnel was the one that involved sliding down the weight chamber of the tower clock and digging out from the cellar. This had been filled in after the Germans had discovered it, but some of it has been unfilled as you can see.

Strawberry Moose is quite interested in giving them a hand, and maybe himself escaping from the castle.

The guided tour was quite expensive, but it was worth every penny and I really enjoyed my visit.

From here I headed south and crossed into the Czech Republic. Years since I’ve been here and Caliburn has never been here at all, and you may remember from last year that I’m trying to expand Caliburn’s sphere of operations.

hotel cerny orel zatec czech republic may 2015I’ve ended up in a town called Zatec, not too far from Plzen. I was doing a tour of the town when I came across a hotel right in the centre. I couldn’t say fairer than that.

I know that I’m supposed to be sleeping in Caliburn as much as possible, but east of where the Iron Curtain used to be, the police sometimes still have attitude issues and it’s not as if the cost of living is expensive here.

town square zatec czech republic may 2015The town itself is gorgeous, although there’s plenty of evidence to suggest that the post-Communist economic miracle has not quite penetrated thoroughly into the region.

Mind you, this is the Sudetenland and the inhabitants, mostly of German origin, were ethnically cleansed out of the region in 1945-46. This might account for some of the issues here, although there’s nothing that I have seen that can detract from the beauty of the place.

There’s a fast food place across the road from the hotel so I resolved to call in on my way back from my walk so that I could pick up a plate of chips. But you can guess what has happened.

You would think that I would be used to this by now.

Sunday 10th May 2015 – AND JUST TO PROVE …

… that at times I can talk the most utter and unadulerated rubbish … "surely not" – ed

You may remember the other day at Bilstein I was going on … "and on and on etc etc" – ed … about the lack of a War Memorial to the dead of World War II and how it seemed to be that the Germans were ignoring them …

world war one world war two war memorial dossem germany may 2015So here at Dossem in the village cemetery is a War Memorial to the dead of World War I and World War II.

And to give you some idea of the suffering, then in complete contrast to the situation in the UK, there are far more dead in World War II than World War I, and I reckon that about 80% of those deaths in World War II came in the final 12 months of the war.

The situation in Germany must have been more cataclysmic for the Germans than anyone could imagine in that final 12-month period.

world war two polish dead Oflag VIB warburg dossem germany may 2015Here are some other people for whom World War II was quite cataclysmic.

The neighbourhood was home to a Prisoner of War Camp and some of the inhabitants were Polish, whose country had of course been erased from the map.

When the camp was liberated towards the end of the war, there are about 130 Poles who remained behind.

Unfortunately, they would never return home, for they were lying in the cemetery, and of those, about 84 had a very sorry tale to tell.

One Sunday evening before the xamp was liberated and they were still prisoners,, they were in the Prison chapel praying when an RAF bomber flew over to attack a nearby railway station. It missed its aim completely and the bomb that it dropped fell squarely onto the chapel.

Any time other than a Sunday late evening, the chapel would have been empty.

6B Oflag VIB warburg wire job dossem germany may 2015This is the site of the camp and the road here is the main track that ran through the camp back in those days.

Intended to be a military airfield, the site was taken over in September 1940 as a Prisoner-of-War camp and was known as Oglag VIB, or more colloquially as Warburg. Its claim to fame is that it was the site of what became known as the Warburg Wire Job, where a couple of prisoners fused the searchlights and in the darkness the remainder stormed the fences. Incredibly, three of them actually made a “home run” back to their home.

6B Oflag VIB warburg wire job dossem germany may 2015You may be forgiven for thinking that it’s a shame that there’s nothing now left of the camp, but these huts are actually on the site of huts that I once saw on the plan of the camp and for all I know, they may well be the originals.

Today, they are being used to house refugees and asylum seekers, “mitarbeiters” as the sign told me. So I suppose that it still does have a connection wit prisoners then. It’s just a shame that I couldn’t manage to go in for a wander around though.

strand hof hotel mohnesee germany may 2015This is my hotel from last night. A gorgeous place with a lovely view out over the Mohnesee and with breakfast included, it came to all of €69:00. In fact, I had to have the receptionist write down the price to make sure that I had it correct, because it really was such good value as that.

I had a couple of good showers and washed my clothes, the main reason why I stop every so often in a hotel. But if ever I’m out this way again, I’ll be making a beeline to here without a doubt.

eder dam dambusters germany may 2015On my way to Warburg I came by the Eder Dam, the third dam that the Dambusters attacked. This was another beautiful drive to reach here and the setting of the dam is totally stunning. It’s easily one of the most spectacular places that I’ve ever visited.

It must have been no mean feat to build it because its situation is such that it is a challenging environment to say the least. But the lake that they created when the steep valley was dammed was well worth the effort. It’s definitely my favourite of the three dams, although due to the steep sides of the valley, parking is rather limited.

dambusters route to eder dam germany may 2015And building it was not the only thing that was challenging. Destroying it was a monumental task.

The Lancasters had to come out of that valley to the right, behing the castle, swing hard left across the lake and then head for the dam at 240mph, settling down to a height of 60 feet as they were doing it, and releasing the bomb at about 500 yards from the dam wall. So my reckoning is that they had about half a mile to adjust themselves, which in real time is about 7 seconds

dambusters route out of eder dam germany may 2015Once they had done all of that, they then had to do the difficult bit, and that was to climb up over the mountain that is on the other side of the dam, which you can see in the photo just here.

Destroying the Eder Dam and surviving the attack was without a doubt the most challenging task that the Dambusters had, and it’s no surprise that the crews had been hand-picked for the mission. Not many aircrew could have been trusted with this attack.

dambusters eder dam bomb damage pressure buttresses germany may 2015My inexperienced eye managed to pick up a few things that are suggestive of repaired bomb damage. Parts of the parapet stone are much smoother and so probably newer that the original stonework, but it’s here at the pressure buttresses that the evidence is clearer.

If you look at the caps, you’ll notice that some of them (the ones nearer the edges) are made of stone but others (the ones nearer the centre) are made of brick. That’s my opinion anyway, for what it’s worth.

So having visited Warburg, I’m now on my way south-east. I’m in the former East Germany and while the contrast with the West isn’t as devastating as it was when I was last here in 1988, you can still see the difference, even after a quarter of a century of unification.

savonius wind turbine KD Stahl und Maschinenbau benterode germany may 2015However, there are signs of things to come.

Here at Benterode, on the site of an old coal mine, there’s a company called KD Stahl und Maschinenbau that manufacture horizontal-axis wind turbines so I went for a wander around. These need more wind to make them turn and are rather heavy on bearing wear, but for confined spaces they are quite ideal.

They had several designs available, but of course being a Sunday evening there was no-one around to talk to about them. And in any case, with the amount of German that I can remember, what chance would I have of talking to anyone?

So tonight I’m parked up on a rest area on the Autobahn to Leipzig. And tomorrow I’ll be on my way again.

Thursday 28th October 2010 – AND HERE I AM …

… in the bosom of my family – or at least the friendly part of it.

They say that being an intellectual runs in our family and of course anyone who has ever been an intellectual really had to run, and so it is nice to report that there is a civilised bit somewhere, even if one has to cross the Atlantic to find it.

Strawberry Moose has disappeared of course. I have three great-nieces aged between 7 and 16 and they have already worked out a rota as to whose turn it is to moosenap him for which night and so I don’t imagine that I shall be seeing him again until I go back on the road.

international boundary usa canada maine new brunswick woodstock houltonThis morning though I went into Houlton, which is just across the river in Great Satan.

Its claim to fame is that it’s the town in the USA that has the largest fire brigade per head of population, and when you look at the statistics you’ll find that it’s also the town in the USA that has been burnt to the ground the most often.

Are these facts related, I wonder.

german prisoner of war camp houlton maine usaIt was also the site of a German Prisoner-of-War camp for German soldiers captured in north-west Europe following the D-Day landings and I had to hunt around for hours until I found any trace of that.

But any trace – the site has long since been built over and it’s now a civilian airport and new industrial estate. There is however a little monument to the place as it was, but that’s well-hidden in the undergrowth and I stumbled upon it in more ways that one.

I was talking to Darren and his Dad about the Templars and my theory that Columbus sailed to America to recover the treasure for Ferdinand and Isabella that the Templars had carried across to there when they escaped from La Rochelle in France in the fourteenth Century. We chatted for hours about this and when we returned home,

Darren switched on the TV and there was a programme on the Templars taking the treasure across the Atlantic and the efforts made to recover it. Truth is indeed stranger than fiction at times.