Tag Archives: East Germany

Monday 11th May 2015 – LAST NIGHT WAS ANOTHER …

motorway rest area autobahn leipzig germany may 2015… one of those nights where a bomb could have gone off in the vicinity and I wouldn’t have paid it the slightest moment of attention.

Here on this rest area on the autobahn towards Leipzig, I slept the sleep of the dead until the alarm went off at 07:30 and it was a struggle to rise up and make breakfast.

Back on the road though, with a nice hot coffee, I carried on heading south. And it didn’t take too long to arrive at my destination.

schloss colditz castle germany may 2015Here I am at Colditz Castle, and this is another one of my lifetime ambitions fulfilled. Brought up on a diet of RAF stories and PoW escape books, I’ve been wanting to come here for years.

Visits to the castle under the Communist regime were strictly discouraged and in fact most of the prisoner artefacts that were still here in 1955 had long gone by the time the Communists left.

remains of french escape tunnel schloss colditz castle germany may 2015Nevertheless, there were still plenty of surprises to come.

A digger working up on one of the courtyards suddenly disappeared from view as the courtyard collapsed underneath it. Closer inspection revealed the remains of an escape tunnel (a French one, as it happens) that the Germans had failed to uncover. Its discovery certainly took everyone, especially the digger driver, quite by surprise.

secret hidden radio installation schloss colditz castle germany may 2015Another surprise was sprung on the roofers.

When they lifted off some of the tiles to replace the roof, they found a hidden alcove with a radio receiving set from World War II still in it. This was one of the four secret radio rooms operated by the prisoners, and the only one that remained undiscovered.

french clock tower escape tunnel schloss colditz castle germany may 2015Mind you, a great deal was already known about the history of the escape plans and it just remained to actually track them down.

Perhaps the most famous tunnel was the one that involved sliding down the weight chamber of the tower clock and digging out from the cellar. This had been filled in after the Germans had discovered it, but some of it has been unfilled as you can see.

Strawberry Moose is quite interested in giving them a hand, and maybe himself escaping from the castle.

The guided tour was quite expensive, but it was worth every penny and I really enjoyed my visit.

From here I headed south and crossed into the Czech Republic. Years since I’ve been here and Caliburn has never been here at all, and you may remember from last year that I’m trying to expand Caliburn’s sphere of operations.

hotel cerny orel zatec czech republic may 2015I’ve ended up in a town called Zatec, not too far from Plzen. I was doing a tour of the town when I came across a hotel right in the centre. I couldn’t say fairer than that.

I know that I’m supposed to be sleeping in Caliburn as much as possible, but east of where the Iron Curtain used to be, the police sometimes still have attitude issues and it’s not as if the cost of living is expensive here.

town square zatec czech republic may 2015The town itself is gorgeous, although there’s plenty of evidence to suggest that the post-Communist economic miracle has not quite penetrated thoroughly into the region.

Mind you, this is the Sudetenland and the inhabitants, mostly of German origin, were ethnically cleansed out of the region in 1945-46. This might account for some of the issues here, although there’s nothing that I have seen that can detract from the beauty of the place.

There’s a fast food place across the road from the hotel so I resolved to call in on my way back from my walk so that I could pick up a plate of chips. But you can guess what has happened.

You would think that I would be used to this by now.

Sunday 10th May 2015 – AND JUST TO PROVE …

… that at times I can talk the most utter and unadulerated rubbish … "surely not" – ed

You may remember the other day at Bilstein I was going on … "and on and on etc etc" – ed … about the lack of a War Memorial to the dead of World War II and how it seemed to be that the Germans were ignoring them …

world war one world war two war memorial dossem germany may 2015So here at Dossem in the village cemetery is a War Memorial to the dead of World War I and World War II.

And to give you some idea of the suffering, then in complete contrast to the situation in the UK, there are far more dead in World War II than World War I, and I reckon that about 80% of those deaths in World War II came in the final 12 months of the war.

The situation in Germany must have been more cataclysmic for the Germans than anyone could imagine in that final 12-month period.

world war two polish dead Oflag VIB warburg dossem germany may 2015Here are some other people for whom World War II was quite cataclysmic.

The neighbourhood was home to a Prisoner of War Camp and some of the inhabitants were Polish, whose country had of course been erased from the map.

When the camp was liberated towards the end of the war, there are about 130 Poles who remained behind.

Unfortunately, they would never return home, for they were lying in the cemetery, and of those, about 84 had a very sorry tale to tell.

One Sunday evening before the xamp was liberated and they were still prisoners,, they were in the Prison chapel praying when an RAF bomber flew over to attack a nearby railway station. It missed its aim completely and the bomb that it dropped fell squarely onto the chapel.

Any time other than a Sunday late evening, the chapel would have been empty.

6B Oflag VIB warburg wire job dossem germany may 2015This is the site of the camp and the road here is the main track that ran through the camp back in those days.

Intended to be a military airfield, the site was taken over in September 1940 as a Prisoner-of-War camp and was known as Oglag VIB, or more colloquially as Warburg. Its claim to fame is that it was the site of what became known as the Warburg Wire Job, where a couple of prisoners fused the searchlights and in the darkness the remainder stormed the fences. Incredibly, three of them actually made a “home run” back to their home.

6B Oflag VIB warburg wire job dossem germany may 2015You may be forgiven for thinking that it’s a shame that there’s nothing now left of the camp, but these huts are actually on the site of huts that I once saw on the plan of the camp and for all I know, they may well be the originals.

Today, they are being used to house refugees and asylum seekers, “mitarbeiters” as the sign told me. So I suppose that it still does have a connection wit prisoners then. It’s just a shame that I couldn’t manage to go in for a wander around though.

strand hof hotel mohnesee germany may 2015This is my hotel from last night. A gorgeous place with a lovely view out over the Mohnesee and with breakfast included, it came to all of €69:00. In fact, I had to have the receptionist write down the price to make sure that I had it correct, because it really was such good value as that.

I had a couple of good showers and washed my clothes, the main reason why I stop every so often in a hotel. But if ever I’m out this way again, I’ll be making a beeline to here without a doubt.

eder dam dambusters germany may 2015On my way to Warburg I came by the Eder Dam, the third dam that the Dambusters attacked. This was another beautiful drive to reach here and the setting of the dam is totally stunning. It’s easily one of the most spectacular places that I’ve ever visited.

It must have been no mean feat to build it because its situation is such that it is a challenging environment to say the least. But the lake that they created when the steep valley was dammed was well worth the effort. It’s definitely my favourite of the three dams, although due to the steep sides of the valley, parking is rather limited.

dambusters route to eder dam germany may 2015And building it was not the only thing that was challenging. Destroying it was a monumental task.

The Lancasters had to come out of that valley to the right, behing the castle, swing hard left across the lake and then head for the dam at 240mph, settling down to a height of 60 feet as they were doing it, and releasing the bomb at about 500 yards from the dam wall. So my reckoning is that they had about half a mile to adjust themselves, which in real time is about 7 seconds

dambusters route out of eder dam germany may 2015Once they had done all of that, they then had to do the difficult bit, and that was to climb up over the mountain that is on the other side of the dam, which you can see in the photo just here.

Destroying the Eder Dam and surviving the attack was without a doubt the most challenging task that the Dambusters had, and it’s no surprise that the crews had been hand-picked for the mission. Not many aircrew could have been trusted with this attack.

dambusters eder dam bomb damage pressure buttresses germany may 2015My inexperienced eye managed to pick up a few things that are suggestive of repaired bomb damage. Parts of the parapet stone are much smoother and so probably newer that the original stonework, but it’s here at the pressure buttresses that the evidence is clearer.

If you look at the caps, you’ll notice that some of them (the ones nearer the edges) are made of stone but others (the ones nearer the centre) are made of brick. That’s my opinion anyway, for what it’s worth.

So having visited Warburg, I’m now on my way south-east. I’m in the former East Germany and while the contrast with the West isn’t as devastating as it was when I was last here in 1988, you can still see the difference, even after a quarter of a century of unification.

savonius wind turbine KD Stahl und Maschinenbau benterode germany may 2015However, there are signs of things to come.

Here at Benterode, on the site of an old coal mine, there’s a company called KD Stahl und Maschinenbau that manufacture horizontal-axis wind turbines so I went for a wander around. These need more wind to make them turn and are rather heavy on bearing wear, but for confined spaces they are quite ideal.

They had several designs available, but of course being a Sunday evening there was no-one around to talk to about them. And in any case, with the amount of German that I can remember, what chance would I have of talking to anyone?

So tonight I’m parked up on a rest area on the Autobahn to Leipzig. And tomorrow I’ll be on my way again.

Sunday 2nd March 2014 – I CAN’T LEAVE …

beach hendaye pyrenees atlantique france… Hendaye without showing you a photo of the beach here.

It stretches for over three kilometres, and even in the dismal weather that we were having this morning, it looked quite impressive. It really is a shame that the weather has conspired to defeat me on this little journey. Hendaye has always been a place high on my list to visit, and I can’t believe that the weather has let me down.

impressive seafront building hendaye pyrenees atlantique franceThe town might not be up to too much but the seafront is certainly from another time – the Belle Epoque of the period from 1890 to 1929 (minus the war of course) as you can tell from some of the magnificent buildings here.

It costs a king’s ransom to rent a flat there as you might expect but, surprisingly, the restaurant is quite “democratic” in its prices and the vegetable risotto that I had the first night here was excellent, in both quality and price.

hotel bellevue hendaye plage pyrenees atlantique franceThis is ice-station Zebra where I stayed for a couple of nights.

They had fixed the hot water by this morning but not the heating, but I’m not complaining. All hotels are under repair during the close season – it’s part of the fun of travelling at this time of year – and they made me a handsome reduction on the price as well as including the (copious) breakfast free of charge to make up for the inconvenience. Chapeau to the Hotel Bellevue!

Diesel is about 10 cents a litre cheaper in Spain and so Caliburn, Strawberry Moose
and I crossed the border and fuelled up.

caliburn n-121-a rest area iruna spainFrom there we followed the border for quite a way – but on the Spanish side.

Neither Caliburn nor Strawberry Moose have been to Spain before and so here’s a photo of Caliburn to prove that he was here. Strawberry Moose will be having a better photo-opportunity in due course.

Watch this space.

0-4-0 steam locomotive n-121-a iruna spainBut there’s all kinds of interesting things to see at the roadside. Here in a pub car park (or what passes as a pub in Spain) there was a steam locomotive.

Built by the Lokomotivbau Karl Marx in Babelsberg (East Germany, of course), this is build number 16005 of 1950 and is probably one of the 4000-odd narrow-gauge steam locomotives built for the East German narrow-gauge railway network.

What it’s doing here is a mystery but one thing is certain in that it won’t be going anywhere else. It’s in a dreadful state.

military fortifications col d'ispeguy spainWe climbed back into France over the Col d’Ispeguy, all 672 metres of it. This was the scene of a battle between the French and the Spanish in June 1794 and it’s clearly a sensitive military area as even today there are the remains of a great number of military defences guarding the Pass.

These though are likely to be something to do with World War II. Spain was neutral during the War but Hitler had asked Franco for permission to send an army across Spain to besiege Gibraltar. This was a logical step, as it would have closed the Mediterranean to British forces and led to the collapse of the British position in North Africa.

Franco refused and, apparently, gave Hitler such a verbal mauling that Hitler emerged shaken from the intervie and declared that he would rather go to have all of his teeth pulled at the dentist that have another discussion with Franco. Franco would be well-aware of the importance of Gibraltar, convinced that the Germans would invade Spain in order to capture the Rock, and doubless ordered these fortifications to be built.

Hitler’s failure to force the issue with Franco was the first nail in the Nazi coffin, in my opinion.

col d'ispeguy Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry franceBut as I have said before, the power of vehicle advertising is teemendous. Here I was sitting at the top of the Col d’Ispeguy quietly eating my butty and admiring the view into France when there was a knock on the window of Caliburn. As a result I ended up doing a site visit for a French guy in the area.

It will come to nothing as he’s at the bottom of a steep-sided valley and won’t have the sun for more than 4 or 5 hours per day in summer, but nevertheless, it just shows …

pyrenees mountains st jean le vieux ahaxe franceNext part of the route was to take me from Ahaxe to Tardets on a road that is something of a roller-coaster of half a dozen mountain passes of well over 1000 metres – up there somewhere.

However on turning off onto the lane there was a large gate, all padlocked off, with “road closed” all over it. Not that I’m surpised. It’s been raining for much of the day and it’s quite cold so snow up there is an odds-on certainty. And it’s not as if it’s a main road – or even a minor road, come to that.

col d'osquich barcus pyrenees atlantique franceI ended up having to come by the Col d’Osquich, Mauléon, Cheraute (where I was lucky enough to catch an exciting football match) and Barcus, and now I’m cosily esconced in a hotel opposite the railway station at Oloron Sainte-Marie where I’ll be spending the night.

It’s nice and warm here and the shower works. Just what the doctor ordered.