Tag Archives: clamecy

Thursday 16th March 2017 – I THOUGHT THAT YOU MIGHT LIKE TO SEE …

hotel des gatines cosne cours sur loire nievre france… my hotel.

It might not look very much from the outside but I’ll tell you something – and that is that it’s the first time since about 1990 that I’ve made a conscious on-the-spot decision to stay over for a second night in a hotel.

The staff is extremely friendly, the breakfast is adequate, the room is clean and tidy and the bed is one of the most comfortable that I’ve ever tried. And being right out here in the countryside, I didn’t hear a thing during the night.

The one problem with going to bed early though is that one has a tendency to wake up early too, and by 06:00 I was wide awake. I had to wait for breakfast though, which I’d booked at 07:30, and so I had the pleasure of David Bowie reminding me that it was 07:00 with his “Wake up, little sleepy-head. Shake off your clothes, get out of bed!” followed at 07:15 by Billy Cotton going “Wakey waaaaaaa…. KAY!”. Ohh the joys of “Audacity” and the ability to customise my own sound clips.

After breakfast, I sat outside in the sunshine and attacked some work that had been building up. That gave me an opportunity to have a rest and relax for a few hours. And then I hit the streets.

First stop was through the town and out the other side to the Auchan supermarket to negotiate some food for lunch. I had a good look at what was going on in there too because I wanted to see what was on offer because, as you know, I have some cunning plans. Finding the entrance to the car park was quite the thing though – it wasn’t all that easy.

old car peugeot 203 briare loiret franceonce I was back on the road, I didn’t get very far. Only just about into the département of Loiret, where I came to a shuddering halt.

Here on the side of the road, jealously guarded by Rover, was a Peugeot 203 sitting here dans son jus as the French say. My ideal kind of vehicle and had it been a pick-up or even a van, I would have gone straight home for my trailer to tow it away.

old car peugeot 203 briare loiret franceIt’s actually at the entrance to a car body repair shop, and it does serve a purpose just sitting here outside. That’s because inside, there are several other vehicles, including another Peugeot 203, that have been restored.

The garage proprietor explained to me (we had a very lengthy chat) that he has some excellent staff working for him and when times are slack he doesn’t want to lose them. So he picks up vehicles like this and his staff work on them whenever there’s a pause in the work.

It keeps them employed, and gives them an opportunity to demonstrate their skills by bringing something like this back to life.

pont canal de briare loiret franceBut before long, in the beautiful sunshine, I arrived in Briare – or to be more precise, Briare-le-Canal – which was my destination for today.

And I had good reason to be here too. Being a Pisces and at home whenever I’m close to water, there are not many places closer to the water than around here. I have one beautiful river – the Loire, of course, and no less than three canals.

And not only that, a magnificent structure designed by Gustave Eiffel. The Pont-Canal (or aqueduct) de Briare, and it’s one of the most impressive of its type in the whole world.

pont canal de briare river loire loiret franceBut first of all, it’s lunchtime and I attack my butty with gusto. And I’m not alone here either because I’m joined by a woman from Paris in an old Fiat Multiplas who seems to travel just as I used to in North America, with everything inside and even a place to sleep.

She reckons that she’s even been as far as the North Cape in Norway travelling like this.

I have to say that I was very impressed, because it’s rare to see someone travel like that these days, and a single woman even more so.

pont canal de briare loiret franceSo having had my butty and a good chat, I went for a wander around. A slow wander, it has to be said, because the day was really hot. Easily the best day of the year to date.

So to let me put you in the picture, let me tell you a little about the history of where we are. Everything here is centred around the first of the canals to be built here, and that goes back to, would you believe, the early 17th Century.

pont canal de briare loiret franceWe mentioned yesterday when we talked about Cosne-sur-Loire that the river here was a major transportation route, right back as far as history records. Roman roads were of course very well-known and very well-built, but technology didn’t exist for the transport of large amounts of items.

We saw, when we were in Clamecy a few years ago, how the timber from the Forests of Morvan was cut down and floated off to Paris where it was used as firewood.

pont canal de briare loiret franceIn any case, the techniques of road-building were for all intents and purposes lost once the Romans had passed on, and what passed for roads in early medieval days were nothing but beaten earth and descended into an impassible morass at the first sign of heavy rain.

There was thus no possibility of sending heavy loads by road, and so rivers became the only reliable method of transport.

pont canal de briare loiret franceAnyway, we move forward to the start of the 17th Century and the decision by Sully, the First Minister of King Henry IV to improve business between the different regions of France. Da Vinci had come up with the idea of canal locks and so Sully decided that a canal should be built to link the valleys of the River Loire and the River Seine, incorporating Da Vinci’s ideas.

Construction began in 1604 and after a pause following the assassination of the King, the canal was finally opened in 1642. It was one of the very first in Europe to use locks.

parallel canal pont canal de briare loiret franceAs boats became bigger and bigger, and traffic became heavier, navigation on the River Loire in places became more problematic. As a result, a canal was built in places parallel to the river to avoid the most difficult stretches of the river.

This section here that we can see runs (or rather, ran, because some of it has been abandoned) from Chatillon sur Loire to a short distance beyond Briare where it joins up with the original entrance to Sully’s canal.

pont canal de briare loiret franceBut commerce, evolving as it does, required a new navigation system and this led to a modernisation of Sully’s canal and a “regularisation” of the route. This led to a new trace being built, and this required an aqueduct across the River Loire and the parallel canal.

In 1889 a decision was made to build the aqueduct across the river, and Gustave Eiffel and his company was brought in on the project, with construction of the metalwork entrusted to Daydé & Pillé. Construction began in 1890 and the first boat, the Aristide, crossed over on 16th September 1896.

pont canal de briare loiret france662 metres long, the aqueduct is, and it’s absolutely beautiful. It became registered as a national historic monument in 1979 and what surprises me is that it took so long for its importance to be recognised.

And important it is too, because For many years it was the longest metal canal aqueduct in the world, maintaining its place at the top of the list until as recently as 2003 when it was overtaken by a new aqueduct in Germany.

pont canal de briare loiret franceAnd so I went for a beautiful walk across it and back along the other side today in the glorious weather. And I have to admit that I spent a good few minutes sitting on a bench, catching my breath watching a member of the Water Board painting the decorations on the pillars.

A coffee would have been nice too but astonishingly, there wasn’t very much in the way of cafés open. Just one in fact, but it was the kind of place where you needed a bank loan to buy a drink.

pont canal de briare loiret franceI just don’t understand people who are in business. Hordes of people wandering around and yet no-one seemed to be too interested in taking their money. Any self-respecting café owner should have looked out of his window, seen the beautiful day, seen the hordes milling about, and set out his stall accordingly.

It really is astonishing, the money-making opportunities that are being overlooked these days. No wonder there’s a recession at the moment.

Anyway, I headed back to my hotel and a lengthy chat with the landlord, putting the world to rights. And then back to my room for a doze followed by the remainder of my meal from last night. Potato salad is a very good standby and I’ll be doing this again.

Now I’m having an early night yet again. I need it.

Wednesday 14th May 2014 – ISN’T IT JUST LIKE HOME?

overnight parking spot caliburn hanging cloud clamecy franceHere I am at one of my regular overnight specs at Clamecy and I woke up this morning to find ourselves (well, myself, for I was alone here apart from Strawberry Moose) swathed in a hanging cloud. It’s just typical of my adventures.

All I need now is a snowstorm and I will be fine.

In the night, though, I was in prison. I’m not sure why but anyway there I was. And it was something of an Open prison too for we were allowed out without surveillance to go to operas and dinners and so on. Bizarre. And then we learnt that Prince Harry had died – quite gruesomely it appeared, blown up in some kind of terrorist attack.

historic clamecy franceFirst stop on our travels this morning was the town of Clamecy. That’s always been one of my favourites – a real medieval planned town that was a nightmare to drive around before they put in the by-pass 12 or so years ago.

I had a good hour there for a good explore around and I have to say that it lived up to my expectations in every respect. I wasn’t disappointed at all.

historic clamecy franceThe only downside of my visit was that I’d picked one of the two days when they were digging up some of the streets to replace the electric cables. Almost every photograph has a couple of workmen and a pile of building materials in it.

Such is life.

medieval varzy franceVarzy is the next town along the road. There’s a by-pass of sorts here, with several sharp turns in it that are quite challenging to a modern lorry, that is shown on a map of the area that I have that was dated from the 1930s.

It was therefore no surprise for me to find another one of these quiet, abandoned Medieval towns off the beaten track.

medieval varzy franceThere’s much more to Varzy too than you would think at first glance and I spent a good hour or so here prowling around.

There wasn’t however anything particular to discover although I did make a little comment to myself that I don’t think that I have seen so many cats in one place than I have here. There was even one on the roof of an abandoned building.

After lunch I carried on along the road and discovered a ruined chateau, a neolithic hill fort with the remains of a medieval castle therein and a few other things like that, and this brought me to the town of Prémery.

chateau premery franceThat’s another town that has been by-passed a good while ago although the main road through it is certainly not as tight as many other places that have to date been overlooked.

Prémery has always been a town that has aroused my curiosity although, now having visited it, I can’t see why because there is nothing special of any note. It has a medieval chateau but then so do many other towns.

chateau guerigny franceThe chateau at Guérigny is a little different however. That was built at the time of the Renaissance by the looks of things and by the time that the Revolution put an end to things like this, it still hadn’t been finished. It became the offices for the iron and steel foundry in the town – a foundry that was contracted to the French Navy to supply all of the ironwork, including anchors and the like, for the ships.

The foundry closed down in 1971 and now the chateau is abandoned and overgrown.

Here, the rain that had been threatening for much of the afternoon finally burst into action and for about 45 minutes moving around was impossible. I managed however to fit in a couple of other things and was finally back home by 20:00 this evening – a day or so ahead of schedule.

And, as Golden Earring once famously said, “it’s good to be Back Home”

Tuesday 13th May 2014 – I WOKE UP THIS MORNING …

caliburn overnight parking st Florentin france"da dah, da da dah" – ed … to find myself abandoned once again by my companions of the night. And there were quite a few of us too at one time.

Mind you, I’d had plenty of companions during the night. I had to meet a friend of mine at the new airport in North-West England, called Skipton although God knows why as it’s miles away from Skipton and much closer to other places, and I didn’t know if he was coming or going, if you know what I mean, so I had to watch both terminals. I ended up talking to someone who was telling me about this most circuitous route he was having to take to go to Frankfurt and it wasn’t until after he left that I realised that he was in fact an airline pilot.

A group of us stopped off at a pub that I knew to do something and then set off back to the airport and on the way back I noticed that the whole bus was littered with frozen food all thawing. It seems that an airline stewardess coming back from Spain had been disciplined for something and so to revenge herself she had emptied all of the frozen food cabinets. I said that it was a pity that no-one had said when we were at the pub because they had a huge frozen food chamber and it could all have gone in that.

Bak at the airport I wondered if I had time to go and sit on the beach (Skipton is a wild place) before my flight and so I telephoned the hotel, that had all the details of flights, but some Australian woman answered the phone, answered me in the rudest of terms and then hung up. So I stormed off to the hotel to register a complaint.

Back in the land of the living (or, at least, the undead), I’ve been wandering around Burgundian towns and villages today – ones through which I have often hurried and never stopped.

st florentin franceWe had St Florentin perched on its lofty bluff overlooking the valley in which the road between Auxerre and Troyes has run since long before Roman times. This has been a very rich town at one time as you might expect – on the border between the land of the Dukes of Burgundy and the Counts of Champagne and all of the tribute and tolls that must have flowed through here.

There’s evidence of a great deal of wealth in the past but today the old part of the town is semi-derelict

cistercian abbey pontigny francePontigny is another place I visited. That is famous for its Cistercian Abbey which is remarkably intact despite the best efforts of the Wars of Religion and the Revolutionary Terror.

Its major claim to fame is that it was the refuge of Thomas A’Beckett and Stephen Langton after they fled into exile having upset the king. Another Archbishop of Canterbury, St Edmund, who served between 1233 and 1240, he is buried here after having died nearby on his way to the Vatican to see the Pope

Auxerre franceI was disappointed with Auxerre, despite all of my hopes of the place and despite how nice it looks from across the river.

But then again, it’s probably a very bad idea to come and see anything or anywhere while Troyes is still running around inside my head. Troyes was certainly one of the most beautiful and interesting places that I have ever visited in recent times.

historic clock gateway auxerre franceAuxerre does have a lot going for it of course – its river, its churches and abbeys, the vestiges of its walls and its famous clock dating from 1484, but the integration between modern and historical isn’t anything like as well-done as Troyes, and many of the narrow Medieval alleys have been swept away and for no good reason too if you ask me.

And to prove that my stories about fires ravaging the whole of Quebec are… well, not exaggerated but, shall we say, over-emphasised, Auxerre has had its share of fires too. 900, 950, 1023, 1825, to name just 4.

coulanges sur yonne franceThere are some little gems too along the road. One such is the town of Coulanges sur Yonne. This is another place that has been by-passed by the modern road so travellers don’t get to visit it but for a little place of some few hundred inhabitants, it’s gorgeous and you can imagine what many modern cities of today must have looked like 1000 years ago simply by walking around here.

coulanges sur yonne franceA word has to be said too about its setting. Here at the foot of a steep valley alongside the River Yonne with the high hills and plateau in the background, no wonder it has been left behind in the mists of time.

But anyway, it’s late – later than I was hoping but I needed to push on or otherwise I won’t ever get here. Now I’m off to find some food – at Clamecy more likely – as I have no gas and I’m not paying … … €54:00 to fill up one of my little gas bottles – it’s cheaper to eat out for the last couple of days.

Thursday 22nd December 2011 – NOW HERE’S A THING!

And this isn’t something that happens every day, is it? And it was so astonishing that it deserves to be reported.

As Caliburn and I roared up the steep winding hills around Clamecy in the early morning mist and rain, a French lorry actually pulled over into a lay-by to let us fly past. That has never happened before and it won’t ever happen again

I was right about the night though. It was most uncomfortable and I tossed and turned for practically all of it. I don’t think that I had much in the way of sleep at all.

It was probably well that I made an early start because I wasn’t going to be doing much else. And the coffee in the flask from yesterday was barely warm. That kind of thing won’t put me in the best of humours either.

On we shot to Brussels, and apart from our lorry-driver friend, the trip was fairly uneventful – that is, until I reached Charleroi.

I’m now in Brussels with a hiccupy Caliburn because, having been distracted for a few moments, I ended up putting a few litres of petrol into him by mistake in Charleroi before I realised.

It’s the ethanol-based fuel that has the yellow handle, not the diesel fuel in Belgium so I hope he won’t have too many ill effects.

Arriving at Marianne’s, I had a steaming mug of coffee thrust into my freezing cold mitt and that made me feel a lot better.

Monday 21st February 2011 – Now talk about a change …

… here I am sitting in the Auvergne. But not in my little attic but in front of a rip-roaring fire at Terry and Liz’s.

This morning, having fuelled up Caliburn, we went to load him up with another pile of stuff and to load up the trailer to with stuff to take back here. But Caliburn is a little poorly right now – the pump-timing has slipped out one notch so he’s not pulling as well as he might – and in any case with the new plan which involves throwing away most of the stuff in the garage, there didn’t seem to be much point in dragging a quarter-full trailer 750 kilometres to here and then dragging an empty one 750 kilometres back.

Without the trailer, Caliburn bounced along quite happily. Leaving Brussels at about 09:40 and stopping for lunch and for afternoon coffee, we were back here (through the snow in the Ardennes and the rain from Auxerre southwards) by 19:45.

clamecy twinned with grandes piles quebec canada franceThere are some beautiful spots along the old road south of Auxerre so I took a little time out to show Liz some of the scenery.

Clamecy is a particularly beautiful little town and one of these days I’ll spend some time there to have a really good look around. In the meantime though, I shall just tantalise you by letting you look at the town in Quebec, Canada, with which Clamecy is twinned. My imagination is boggling – I dunno about yours.

Back here at Liz’s, it’s really cold and in a stone house that has been empty and unheated for a month in midwinter, it’s even cold inside. But with a huge blaze going it’s quickly warming up. Mind you, after driving all this way it won’t be long before I’ll be climbing the little wooden hill to Bedfordshire.  

Saturday 24th April 2010 – I’ve just watched …

fcpsh fc pionsat st hilaire cebazat puy de dome ligue de football league francethis ...errr....interesting football match this evening.

We had all kinds of blood, guts and thunder for 90 minutes, and played almost entirely between the two penalty areas. Matthieu in the Pionsat goal had to be at his best to claw away a free header from the corner and the Cebazat keeper had to save two weak shots, but that was the sum total of the attempts on goal.

Yes, I'm back at home after all the excitement of Friday evening in Brussels. And what with the late finish getting everything ready last night, I didn't make it home all in one go. I ended up having an overnight stop at Clamecy where I froze to death in a layby (yes, it's still perishing cold at night)

Still, the one thing about that was that it made me have an early start, and I didn't lose very much as I stopped for the weekly shopping at the Carrefour in Moulins.

I was back here by the early afternoon and promptly crashed out for two hours on my sofa. That set me up nicely for the trip down to Pionsat and the football tonight.

As Golden Earring once famously said, "it's good to be back home".