Monthly Archives: September 2014

Sunday 14th September 2014 – BACK IN CENTREVILLE

truckstop trans canada highway kings landing new brunswick canadaLast night, I had one of the best nights sleeps that I had ever had. Flat-out almost from the moment that I pulled up at the truckstop at Kings Landing and I didn’t feel a thing, except for the torrential rainstorm that hit us at about 04:00 or something like that.

And I have to say that I needed that sleep because I was dead to the world.

I bOught a coffee in the truckstop and then moved on along the highway a good few miles to warm up the car as it was quite cold. Then I stopped to type up my notes.

mars hill wind turbine maine usaOn the way back to Rachel’s, I came over the brow of a hill to see Mars Hill swathed in a misty haze way in the distance and it was looking quite spectacular.

You can’t see the wind turbines in this haze and you can’t see my property, but it’s to the extreme right og the hill on the downward slope.

Meanwhile, back at Taylor Towers, it seems that out little jaunt into the USA has been cancelled. There’s been a bereavement in the family and of course that takes full priority. Rachel and I thus spent a very pleasant and fruitful few hours tidying up the house and sorting out a huge pile of rubbish which we burnt outside in the fire pit. Clearly Neitzsche, who once very famously said that "out of chaos comes order" never met anyone from our family.

When the family returned from paying their respects, Darren and I moved a huge pile of stuff from outside and stashed it away ready for the winter. It’s not going to be long before it’s here.

Saturday 13th September 2014 – DAY FOUR OF THE HARVEST JAZZ AND BLUES FESTIVAL

Little did I know it last night, with everything being so quiet and peaceful where I had parked last night, that the tents around me were packed full of infants.

When I’m in Canada, I’m usually up quite early – the alarm goes off at 06:30 and I’m usually awake long before that, but these kids beat me easily to the draw. It’s a good job that I wasn’t planning on a lie-in this morning.

I dashed through the photos and the texts and then set off for the Tim Hortons on the edge of Fredericton to upload everything to the web, stopping off at the petrol station at Keswick where fuel is just 122.9 cents per litre.

I wandered up to Value Village to see whether they had anything in the line of a new tote bag to replace the one where the zip has broken and sure enough, the place did me proud. There was a new $50 rucksack in there at just $12.99. Not quite the cavernous one that I was hoping to find but it’s certainly bigger than anything else that I might find at that price.

Parking at Fredericton was horrendous today. It took me ages to find somewhere that was near the city centre, and there was still a long walk into town. Still, needs must when the devil drives, I suppose.

mike peters busker harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014First person whom I stumble upon is Mike Peters. He’s had a promotion this year, playing at the CBC busking spot in the centre of town. You may well recall that last year he was playing stuck around the back of everywhere by the footbridge over the by-pass.

I’m not quite sure where he will go from here, but it’s a shame, if not a tragedy, that he can’t be given a place as a support act at one of the more formal venues. He’s streets better than some of the performers we’ve seen on there.

double dutch hutch officers square harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014Here at the Officers Square, this is Double Dutch Hutch whom we have seen before. I’m not sure when but it might have been 2011, I reckon. I just caught the tail-end of their show and saw them perform Londa Ronstadt’s "You’re No Good" and Bob Dylan’s "Mr Tambourine Man" and I wish that I had caught some more of them too because I really enjoyed their music.

And as for his team of go-go dancers, then good luck to them, and good luck to him too.

morgan davis rick fines harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014Carrying on into the Mojo Tent, we have Morgan Davis on stage. He was at the Officers Square – was it yesterday? He had Rick Fines with him today and we met him too in 2011 – I remember speaking to him and the bassist whom he had with him at the time, a female bassist whose name I have also forgotten but who I remember was pretty good.

Bassist tonight is Alex Fraser, and we have of course the famous Jeff Arsenault on drums.

morgan davis rick fines harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014With Morgan Davis and Rick Fines together on stage you don’t need to say too much about their performance do you? Traditional simple home-spun blues, and played to perfection too, especially when it’s backed by Alex and Jeff.

It’s a shame that many of the performers here can’t keep things simple and basic. There’s quite a place for this kind of simplicity here at the Festival

revivalists harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014These are the Revivalists and it’s much easier sitting on top of the bleachers at the back of the marquee with the big telephoto lens. And another Gibson bass as well.

and all that I can say is that I’m really sorry that I missed most of their set because I was quite enjoying what I heard. They finished with the old Blues Brothers standard “Somebody to Love” and did quite a good job of it too.

chris robinson brotherhood harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014The Chris Robinson Brotherhood is another Southern Rock band. The musicians are somewhat under-rehearsed but they have the crowd bouncing around as well and this is going to be a good concert if they can keep going like this

So as well as a very competent moog synthesizer player we had a duelling guitar solo right at the end just like most Southern bands and it was really good. The drummer is excellent too but I did notice that he was counting the bars as he was playing.

But the sad thing about all of this is that with not having been to bed until long after midnight, and waking up at 06:00 to do the photos and the notes, I’m crashing out here, even in the middle of a rock concert and so in the end it’s all too much and I head back to the car to crash out there.

harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick government offices canada september 2014I’d parked the car near to the Government Offices in Fredericton and as I passed, I noticed a woman setting up a tripod to photograph the floodlit building. I fell in with her and we had quite a chat about all kinds of things.

I realised that I don’t actually have a decent night photograph of the building and so while I was talking, I added one to my collection.

And then I hit the road

And I’ve been spending more of my money today, more of which anon

Friday 12th September 2014 – DAY THREE OF THE HARVEST JAZZ AND BLUES FESTIVAL

Mind you, it might not have been, for I’d been on my travels again during the night.

I’d been working for years in an office and was to retire in a couple of days. I’d several files on a shelf behind me where they had been for several years, files that I hadn’t been able to deal with. I was planning to surreptitiously shred them so that no-one would find them. It did occur to me that I could simply leave them and it wouldn’t make any difference as I wouldn’t be there to face the consequences, but my pride wouldn’t let me do that.

There were also some items hanging on a chain link fence and they needed to be removed too, and Nerina put in an appearance to lend me a hand.

On that note, I awoke to something of a chill, but also to a little sunshine. The weather had improved considerably during the night, but there was quite a strong wind blowing.

There was so much work to do from yesterday so I had to press on without stopping to make a coffee – I could fuel up at a Tim Horton’s when I upload everything to the internet. However it took a while to make it to Tim Horton’s as I came across a Salvation Army thrift shop (but no books or CDs for me) and then went shopping in the Atlantic Superstore.

Once I’d had the coffee and done the work, it was into town as things were starting early today.

Alex Bailey Swing Band harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014This is the Alex Bailey Swing Band apparently, although there wasn’t a swing in sight, no matter how much all of the children here would have loved to have been on it. Playing in the fine weather on the free stage at Officers Square to a contented crowd sitting in the sunshine.

For me though, the music didn’t do much to warm me up as Jazz isn’t really my thing and so I wandered off to see whatever else I could find.

kill chicago harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014This is a group called Kill Chicago. They were featuring at the Barracks Tent, taking part in the Galaxie Rising Stars Showcase.

They were another group that blew hot and cold as well – sometimes some of their stuff was quite enjoyable and at other times it didn’t appeal to me. Still, I have to admit that i’m getting old and it’s going to be very rare that a group of musicians 30 and 40 years younger than me would play music that would keep me riveted in my seat.

Technically though, there wasn’t much wrong with them, and that’s the kind of thing that is always worth admiring.

morgan davis harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014Back on the Free Stage at Officers Square we had Morgan Davis and his long-time drummer Jeff Arsenault. They are Festival regulars although it’s a shame to see them relegated to a Free Stage in an early afternoon rather than as a support act in a marquee venue. Sign of the times, I suppose. And shame as it is to say it, I can’t remember the name of the bassist, whom I have met before.

His set was exactly what you would expect it to be – a very competent and talented set of home-spun blues. And I did like his reference to the “United Snakes of America”.

Gord Downie, The Sadies and The Conquering Sun harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014First up this evening in the Blues Tent was, at long last, a real Blues performer. Gord Downie, The Sadies and The Conquering Sun. And that was a belting, powerhouse performance, well worth the wait for this. I thoroughly enjoyed every moment of this performance.

He had the correct number of musicians on the stage too – with no keyboards, no horns and no harmonica either, and his lead guitarist was one of the best that I have heard in years as well. During one track he played a lengthy solo right up at the top end of the scale of his guitar and that somehow found its way into my bones.

Gord Downie, The Sadies and The Conquering Sun harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014Downie was a showman and a performer if ever there was one too, and he was also a few other things besides, but we won’t go into them on these pages.

If I had been writing these notes 30 years or so ago I would have described this as an outrageously camp performance, but I’m not so sure that these terms are acceptable these days. I will have to think of another way to express exactly what I mean.

Gord Downie, The Sadies and The Conquering Sun harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014Their performance finished with a high-energy punk number, and having seen a few of these here this last couple of days, all I can say is that Downie and his bands put these other punk musicians to shame and if punk music had been played as he and his band played it, it would never have been classed as the nadir of performing music.

What an amazing concert. I really enjoyed this set, so it’s “hats off” to Gord Downie, who cheered me up immensely and restored my faith in the festival. But it was sad to see so few people enjoying this concert with me.

arlens harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014This is a busking group out there on the free stage at the Fredericton Tourist Information Office and I’ve heard worse than these too. They are called the Arlens, I think.

I can think of many worse ways to pass a free half-hour of my time. The audience enjoyed it anyway, boogie-ing about even if the music was a little hit-and-miss. As for the singer though, well, he must have been having an off-day I reckon.

blackberry smoke harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014Shame as it is to say it, I was somewhat disappointed by Blackberry Smoke.

However this was entirely due to the video that I had seen of one of their live performances, and that was something quite extraordinary, but then as a promotional item they would always use the best publicity available and I’m fully aware of that kind of thing, so I was expecting it.

So perhaps I wasn’t really disappointed after all.

blackberry smoke harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014What I wasn’t expecting though was the tirade launched from the stage about the Canadian Customs and Border Control. It seems that they have had the same issues with them that I have been having.

Had I caught the group unawares, I would have been enthralled by what I had seen because as a Southern Rock jam-band (from Atlanta in Georgia apparently, which should come as no surprise to anyone), they might not have been in the same class as The Outlaws or Widespread Panic, but they would be by far and away the best band that I would ever likely to catch a l’improviste.

gibson bass guitar blackberry smoke harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014And a Gibson bass too. What bliss! I was beginning to think that I was the only bassist in the world still to be playing one.

They did the track about “One More Silver Dollar” – the Allman Brothers one – and that involved a jam that went on for about three hours (and quite right too – my only complaint being that it didn’t go on for four hours). And somewhere along the line the managed to fit in a sample of “When the Levee Breaks” – the old Led Zeppelin show-closer.

blackberry smoke harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014All in all, I enjoyed this show too. It did drag a little in the middle but when they did break out into a jam solo here and there it lifted my spirits again. “Naked self-indulgence” I hear you say, and even if it might be, ask me if I care. I’d go along to see these again.

One thing that I will be doing as soon as I return home, whenever that might be, will be to try to track down a live performance somewhere to use on the radio.

blues traveler harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014If you have read my remarks on harmonicas, you would be forgiven for thinking that I hate the instrument. But that’s not really so. What I hate about it is
1) Almost every Blues musician thinks that it’s an essential part of the blues, and no blues can ever be performed without it.
2) Most harmonica players don’t know how to play the instrument.

So how will we get on with Blues Traveler, who is really a harmonica soloist with a few vocals here and there and a backing band?

blues traveler harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014The answer to that is that he’s the only blues musician who knows how to play it properly, and when I noticed that his bassist had a collection of 5-string basses on stage (unfortunately, all Fenders but you can’t legislate for that) I suspected that this could be an excellent performance with much more to the music than just the harmonica.

And I was right too. This was a stunning performance. We did, of course, have “Canadian Rose” – that was odds-on, wasn’t it? And we had a magnificent keyboards solo during one of the tracks. But as for the harmonica playing, well everyone else might just simply throw away their harmonicas for they will never ever be able to reproduce the sounds that came out of this one. It’s a waste of time trying.

blues traveler harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014The net result of all of this is that with Gord Downie and His Mates, Blackberry Smoke and Blues Traveler, I’ve had one of the best night’s entertainments that I have ever had, and I was walking on air on the way back to the Dodge, long after my usual bedtime.

Only downside of the day was that when I returned to the camp site I discovered that someone has pinched my spec and was having a barbecue there. I wasn’t in the mood for confrontation and so I cleared off and found another pitch somewhere else.

Thursday 11th September 2014 – DAY TWO OF THE HARVEST JAZZ AND BLUES FESTIVAL

It was much warmer this morning and I felt much more comfortable, although I’d had something of a turbulent night. I had lots to do this morning and that kept me pretty much occupied for quite a while and then it was off to find an internet connection. Once again, Tim Horton’s came up trumps and I reckon that the free wifi service that they offer will pay for itself in spades with the amount of custom it pulls in.

However, while I was in there, the weather changed. You may remember me telling you that they had turned the tent around at the Barracks Square and it’s now on the grass rather than on the hard-standing. I mentioned that if it ever started to rain everyone would be up to their knees in mud by the end of the evening.

And so it comes as no surprise to notice that it’s now raining. And as the afternoon wore on, the rain came down heavier and heavier. After doing a few more things that needed to be done, and going for something to eat, I had an hour or two to spare before the evening’s entertainment began. So I took refuge in the public library and read a book on Canadian Railways.

lee fields expressions harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014So here in the driving rain, although it’s quietened down a little from how it was half an hour ago, we have Lee Fields and the Expressions on the stage.

Again, there are far too many musicians on stage for my liking with his brass and his horns, and whether or not you would call him good would depend upon your own point of view, he has bags of presence and certainly knew how to get to a crowd, there’s no doubt about that. He’s a showman if ever there was one.

lee fields expressions harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014He had his first hit record in 1969 which is quite surprising seeing as how I haven’t ever heard of him. Still, soul music isn’t my scene at all.

I wasn’t impressed with his dress sense. I thought that the silver lurex suit was a little too 70s for my liking.

But I do wonder what must be going through the minds of the organisers when they have soul singers at a jazz and blues festival.

samantha fish harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014Pogo Ray on the drums, Scott Sutherland on the bass and of course, Samantha Fish on guitar and vocals. She played a superb set, and I will tell you now that I thoroughly enjoyed her concert.

I only heard three songs, what with other things that needed to be done, but I’ll make a special effort to catch her act later on tonight at the Hoodoo House so that I can hear some more.

samantha fish harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014And so I did. I caught up with her later, just in time to catch her doing the most astonishing version of Black Sabbath’s War Pigs that I have ever heard, and I told her so after the show. She has also put me in touch with her record company so that I can obtain a copy of one of her live performances for Radio Anglais.

Hers was the best act so far and although she hasn’t had much competition up to date, nevertheless she’s now way out in front by my reckoning, and by a country mile too.

Shirley Jackson and her Good Rocking Daddys harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014Meanwhile at the Hoodoo House there can’t have been more than 70 people watching Shirley Jackson and her Good Rocking Daddys. Mind you, I can’t say that I’m surprised. I didn’t hang around very long and for three good reasons too –
1) I had other fish to fry (including Samanthat Fish of course)
2) Jazz isn’t my scene at all
3), technically, Shirley Jackson and her Good Rocking Daddys were, well, not quite at the races in my opinion and the guitarist was, well, a little way behind the others.
I’ve seen worse than these, to be sure, but I’ve also seen a whole lot better too.


always the belles harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014Next group on stage were supposed to be the Belles, but they were announced as Always, or something like that … "it’s ALVVAYS" – ed … or my hearing is going, one or the other.

It was enjoyable new-romantic pop but technically they have been bettered by quite a few other bands. I spent most of my time watching the bassist with his Paul McCartney Hofner bass guitar, and playing all of the bass lines. And I was playing them, well, totally differently.

What didn’t help the group was that the sound mix was so awful, although it probably sounded much better at the back than it did at the front where we were, hemmed into the tiniest protographers’ pit I have ever been in.

doctor john harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014This is someone called Doctor John and I had a little bet with myself that with a name like that it would be odds-on that he would produce a harmonica at some point during the proceedings.

So we did have Doctor John (without a harmonica for at least the first three numbers that I saw) and I had to say that the stage was the wrong way round – he had his back facing towards the organ and drums (but facing across to the guitarists and female backup singer who was doubling up on trombone).

Again, an enjoyable act that was technically very good, but not my scene at all.

david clayton thomas harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014David Clayton Thomas’ act looked quite ominous – there’s a whole pile of trumpets and horns and so on being wheeled out on stage. That makes my skin creep a little.

So He is someone quite well-known in certain circles (but not mine) and even brings with him his musical director – the guy in the green shirt playing trumpet on the left of the front row. I mean – who has a musical director in a show like this?

Anyway, he’s enjoying it and so are his musicians. They are having a whale of a time up there and I’m sure that some of what he is saying on stage contains some kind of in-jokes amongst them all, so good luck to them – and good luck to the crowd toon because they were having fun. But it wasn’t my cup of tea.

And for all of their rehearsals and musical directors and so on, I did detect a few, well, shall we just say “impromptu notes” and “uncommon timing” floating around here and there. It didn’t seem to hang together like it should – a bit bitty.

arkells harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014These are the Arkells and they are another 24th Street Wailers, aren’t they? I was exhausted just watching them for three numbers – dunno how the rest of the crowd got on for an hour or so, and as for playing it, well, I did have my suspicions about one or two of them. The second guitarist, for example, looked quite … errr … animated.

It was like the punk music of the late 70s which was quite surprising as the bassist was doing a very good impression of Glen Mattacks, bassist with the Sex Pistols, who just stood there and played while the others got up to whatever it was that they were getting up to. But unlike the punk bands of the 70s, these could actually play to a certain degree.

arkells harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014In contrast to the 48th Street Wailers though, the anarchy on the stage was totally uncoordinated and we had musicians crashing into each other every now and again as they jigged around the stage. At least the Wailers had some kind of coordinated stage act.

The Arkells had the crowd, mostly of teenage girls, quite animated too and the audience participation was thoroughly excellent and the crowd loved the performance. And it was the largest house of the night by far in what has been a pretty poorly-attended festival so far, so I’m clearly in a minority of One.

I’m probably far too old for this. I went to catch the end of Samantha Fish’s stage act at the Hoodoo House before going home to bed.

Wednesday 10th September 2014 – DAY ONE OF THE HARVEST JAZZ AND BLUES FESTIVAL …

… so I need to organise myself properly. Quite an impossible task, for many have tried and all have failed.

mactaquac provincial park campground federicton new brunswick canadaTo start with, here’s a photo of my pitch at the Mactaquac Provincial Park. I’m sheltered by bushes and trees on two sides, which means of course that the wind is coming from the other two sides, as you might expect.

And it was cold during the night. Really cold. I went to bed fully-clothed, and that was uncomfortable when I had a bad attack of cramp at about 04:00.

And it was even colder at 07:00 when I was up and about. I almost went to look for a jumper but a hot coffee followed by an even-hotter shower did the business.

deer mactaquac provincial park campground federicton new brunswick canadaStrawberry Moose had some visitors too – presumably collecting maintenance payments from last year, I shouldn’t be surprised.

Having read the news recently, His Nibs is quite keen to play his part in diversifying the species – in fact, any species that he can. It’s why he’s so insistent upon coming here with me.

Mind you, if his friends don’t learn to move off the road quicker than they do at the moment, they might need all of the help that he can give them in that respect.

saint john river fredericton new brunswick canadaI had quite a few things to do this morning, and then I went off for lunch at the boat-launching ramp across the Saint John River from Fredericton. The view from here across to the city is quite phenomenal, especially in the magnificent weather that we were having at the time.

And having dealt with that, I went off for an explore around until the early evening when the Festival is supposed to get under way.

But there’s something that isn’t quite right here this year. The headline act, Blues Traveler, aren’t opening at the Playhouse Theatre, as most of the other headlining bands have donein the recent past. The Hoodoo House isn’t erected yet and won’t be opening tonight, and the Barracks Square tent isn’t open either. Furthermore, it’s been turned 90° so that it’s only half the size and instead of being on the hardstanding, it’s on the grass lawn. That will be interesting if we have a heavy downpour of rain at any time.

wood brothers harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014First band up on stage were the Wood Brothers in the Blues Tent. Apart from a bassist, Chris Wood, who spent a great deal of his time dancing with his instrument, I’m not quite sure what to say about them.

I made a note that they were more folk-country-rock than blues but that wasn’t necessarily the case. They chopped and changed styles and like most people who try to be something to everyone, they ended up being nothing to anyone – or at least, to me. Technically they were excellent, there’s no doubt about that, but their diversity didn’t appeal to me.

At the Mojo Tent I missed Gypsophilia – they were walking offstage as I arrived.

thus owls harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014Next up was a group called Thus Owls, or something like that. They consisted of a guitarist, a drummer, and a woman playing keyboards and “things”, singing and using her voice for sound effects.

I wasn’t sure what to make of them. They were something like a Sigur Ros but singing in English, not Icelandic, and I’m not sure exactly where they were supposed to fit in at the festival because whatever they were, it was neither blues nor jazz, and this experimental avant-garde chamber music isn’t really for me. I’m not able to comment on the technical ability as it isn’t easy to understand what it is that they were really trying to do.

matty andersen mellotones harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014Back at the Blues Tent, we had Matty Andersen and the Mellotones, a name sounding like something out of the Blues Brothers. He’s from New Brunswick and his claim to fame is that he won the International Blues Challenge in Memphis in 2010.

He wasn’t alone either. He had four brass musicians (they were also playing horns and the like too), three guitarists including himself, a bassist, a keyboard player and a drummer, and probably a partridge in a pear tree too somewhere.

Mark Knopfler said something about not giving “a damn about any trumpet-playing band. It ain’t what they call rock and roll” and I’m afraid that I have to agree. His performance, which I have to say was quite competent by anyone’s standards, didn’t need half of these musicians on the stage. It’s just, in my opinion, unnecessary clutter and it tends to distract from the music.

Godd though it may have been, it wasn’t my cup of tea. I put my camera away and prepared to leave for the Mojo Tent.


It was at this moment that we had one of these priceless occasions that happens only once in a lifetime. As I was standing by the door putting the Nikon away, a “Security” guard came running over.
“I saw that!” he shouted accusingly, pointing to my camera bag (generally speaking, DSLRs are forbidden at the Festival)).
“Did you see this?” I said, thrusting my Media Pass under his nose.
One rather red-faced security guard beat a hasty retreat.

On the way back to the Mojo Tent, I was harassed by yet another beggar (there are a few of these about) and while he was busy trying to cadge half a dollar, his mobile phone rang. And it was a much-better smartphone than I could ever afford. And so I told him what I thought about it all, in no uncertain terms.

This is the kind of thing that annoys me intensely.

bahamas harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014Final act onstage for tonight was Bahamas, not bananas – at the Mojo Tent.

They consisted of a singer-guitarist, another guitarist, a drummer, a backing vocalist and – shock, horror – not a bassist in sight. What a sacrilege! I can’t think why any blues or jazz band would ever want to play without a bassist, and how it would even be possible. That is just the kind of thing that would have me on the back foot before we even start.

drummer bahamas harvest jazz and blues festival fredericton new brunswick canada september 2014I didn’t make a single note or comment about the group’s music so they clearly made no impression at all on me. I’ll have to give them a rather neutral mark.

As a Media representative (Radio Anglais does have some benefits after all) I’m allowed to photograph the first three numbers and then I can stay and watch the rest of the act. But I ended up leaving and going back home for an early night.

I have to say that on Day One, I’ve seen nothing that has grabbed my attention. In fact, to be honest, I’ve been rather disappointed with the music that I’ve seen so far. I hope that things pick up considerably for Day Two.

Tuesday 9th September 2014 – I’VE LEFT CENTREVILLE …

… and I’m now at my other spiritual home, the campsite at the country park at Mactaquac, near Fredericton.

It wasn’t quite as cold this morning – a balmy 9°C would you believe – when I set off to the tyre depot to pay my respects to everyone there, and I ended up for an hour or so doing some photocopy-editing of a photo in an old historic book that someone has found. It shows all of the kids who went to a local primary school in 1935 – including Wallace McCain, he who had his chips just a few years ago – and someone has succeeded in identifying them all.

Consequently we were doing a “cut and paste” on the photocopier so that all of the kids would be labelled with their identity.

From there I went to the Bank at Florenceville to do some stuff down there and then set off for Woodstock. And by the time I got to Woodstock I was half a mill … "you said that last year – and the year before" – ed. I did a little food shopping and at Canadian Tires I bought a small hydraulic bottle jack. There’s a good reason for this in that the jacks in these hire cars are sill jacks, and totally useless on uneven ground. And of course, I might be going to Labrador as you know.

But then again, I might not. It’s snowing in Alberta already and there are people snowed in at their homes and so on – early September and WE complain about our weather! I want to see what the long-range forecast is before I commit myself.

On the motorway down to Fredericton, I was right about something of which I had caught a glimpse earlier. You may recall, from all of our previous visits to Canada, that they have these road trains – an articulated tractor unit towing not one but two small trailers – a lead trailer and a pup trailer (although when they have to reverse, the drivers often call the pup trailer something like “the mother of a pup.

But I was convinced that I’d seen not one but two Day and Ross lorries, each towing two full-sized trailers on the motorway around Montreal and so I had the camera poised as I flashed along the Trans-Canada Highway.

articulated lorry two trailers trans canada highway new brunswick canadaSure enough, I was not wrong about that. The lorry here in this photo on the other carriageway is pulling two full-sized trailers. I’ve seen plenty of lead-and-pup combinations in my time, but never this.

And doesn’t Strawberry Moose take a superb photo, especially when we have a closing speed of what must be not far short of 250kph. Well done, Strawberry!

At Fredericton, they hadn’t done my press pass info so I had to hang around for a while so I went up to Home Depot for a nosy around. There was nothing interesting there but I did meet Danny, the store assistant who comes from Croatia and with whom I’ve had several good chats before. And at Value Village, I bought a few more CDs and a book on Quebec and the Maritime Provinces.

Finally, I picked up my press pass and my parking permit and now I’m here. I’ve had tea and I’m going to have an early night, I reckon.

Monday 9th September 2014 – HALL TOWERS …

eric hall mars hill road upper knoxford new brunswick canada… is looking rather worse for wear these days. It seems that a little bit more of the gable roof has disappeared. So much for my plans to donate it to a worthy cause. I tried several of these historic villages to see if anyone wanted it, but no-one did, even if I offered to pay the transportation.

I only hope that if it does fall right down, it’ll fall across the border into the USA. Usually I seem to be able to attract trouble without going out to look for it, so a frontier incident or border war should be right up my street.

Talking of frontier incidents and border wars, last night I was working for the STIB – the Société de Transports Intercommunale de Bruxelles as a bus driver. They started me off on an easy route, just following one main road, but even I managed to complicate matters and deviate from the plan … "no surprise there " – ed.

The next day they were planning to send me out driving the route 23. I’ve no idea where that goes to but last night in the Land of Nod it was the bus that hugged the roads back and to across the linguistic frontier between Flanders and Wallonie. That was a route that was the subject of endless confrontations between drivers and the public as a French-speaking driver would be harassed by the Flemish and a Flemish driver would be harassed by the Walloons, and there was no way of having a typical Belgian compromise and splitting the route. Putting an Anglophone driver on the bus would be a red rag to everyone.

However the depot where the 23 was garaged was also the subject of complications. It was far too small for the purpose of garaging the buses that were needed in the vicinity – just an island dividing two carriageways, but neither the Flemish or Walloon communities would agree to its expansion or its displacement elsewhere as it would give some kind of advantage to the other community.

Sounds just like real Belgium, doesn’t it?

saint john river florenceville new brunswick canadaRegular readers of this rubbish will not need to be told where the Saint John River might be. It’s in a steep-sided valley, and although it is nothing like as steep as the valley of the Sioule near home, it’s steep enough and you’ll be able to guess quite easily.

Yes, it was cold during the night and when I took this photo, at about 08:30, it was a mere 7°C.

I went to see the guy who was supposed to be looking for a vehicle for me, and his (rather predictable, I’m afraid) response was “ohh, I forgot all about you after a month or so”. It seems that it’s too much like hard work for a businessman to haul himself out of a chair and earn a couple of dollars these days. Rather sit at home and let the dollars flow through his fingers. What a sad state the Western World is coming to when businessmen can’t even be bothered to earn some money.

I tell you now, customer service in North America is disappearing rapidly down the tubes. It’ll be like Belgium soon.

So after checking on Hall Towers, I crossed the border into the USA. I went over at Riviere de Chute, the same crossing point as last year, and it was the same miserable old whatsit on duty, but just for a change he was cheerful and happy. No idea what was happening there.

So negotiating the Amish horse buggies I arrived in Presque-Ile to some devastating news. The huge Salvation Army Thrift Centre has closed down. I had a pile of good books and music from there last year and this was my main reason for going.

cook florist presque ile maine usaStill, I could always go to the local florists and buy some suitable flowers to express my feelings, but if Cooks Florists had any flowers to express the feelings that I was having right at that particular moment I would have been very surprised indeed.

I wonder if there’s a Trading Standards Bureau in the USA that checks for misleading advertising. I think we should be told.

Still, not to be outdone, I went old-car hunting, and look at this!

h m vehicles freeway presque ile maine usaThis is a Freeway, a three-wheeled vehicle made by a company called HM Vehicles in Burnsville, Minnesota. That was a company that made vehicles for just 3 years, 1979 to 1982, before closing down.

This vehicle is one of only about 700 ever made, so it’s as rare as hens’ teeth, and what remains of it, because you would need to be dedicated to have a go at restoring this one, is available for purchase at a mere $2500, or near offer.

I suppose that there would be some takers at that price, and I might be interested myself. It would fit into my suitcase and would probably come within the weight of my baggage allowance too.

frazer nash metropolitan presque ile usaThat wasn’t the only interesting car either. There were plenty of others, including this one. This is a Nash Metropolitan, either a Series III or a IV, and the claim to fame of these cars is that they were built by Austin at Longbridge for Nash, the American car company and were imported for sale in North America – the first car ever to be totally built abroad on behalf of a USA manufacturer. There will even probably still be the old 1489cc BMC B-series engine in there.

A few were sold in the UK and people with long memories will remember the pile of them dumped and abandoned for years on the waste land at the side of Grocott’s garage in Wistaston, Crewe in the late 1960s and early 70s.

I could cry when I think of that, how rare these cars are now.

I headed on back to Canada afterwards, and at the frontier I was once more given a hard time, this time by a Canadian border official. I just don’t understand what it is with border officials. Do they have to undergo a surgical operation to remove their goodwill, good humour and pleasant disposition before they are appointed to a post?

Sunday 7th September 2014 – BACK TO CANADA

You wouldn’t believe, given the beautiful morning, how evil he weather had been last night. We woke up to clear blue skies and a pale dawn sunshine. And also an enormous amount of dew and some freezing cold weather.

We weren’t long in setting off, and went to Dysart’s in Bangor for breakfast. That’s an enormous truck stop just off Interstate 95 (at mile marker 180) and long-term readers of this rubbish will remember that I met a team of cheerleaders here last year. I had toast and jam, with home fries and mixed vegetables, and enough coffee to sink a ship – although whether it is correct to call this hot brown-coloured liquid “coffee” is a matter of some debate.

From there we went on up to the exit at mile marker 188 and Sam’s Club. This is one of the leading wholesale outlets in the north of Maine and Darren and Rachel needed to stock up the shop at the tyre depot. I limited myself to a pack of 4 of the bottled gas that I use in the cooking stove – all of $5:49. I don’t really need it but it’s the kind of stuff that you can never ever find when you need it and if I’m going off up to Labrador I might need it.

We fuelled up at Oakland, which is the cheapest fuel in Maine apparently, and then crossed the border into Canada. Here in the Maritimes, the time is one hour in advance of the Eastern USA and so it was 19:30 when we arrived here.

I’m staying here for a day or two and then I’m off to the Jazz and Blues Festival at Fredericton. I’d better polish up my guitar.

Saturday 6th September 2014 – WHAT A FARCE …

… this tractor pull has been.

The morning started fine enough, a beautiful bright blue sky and nice hot weather. And I had a most enjoyable breakfast too.

After that I went for a walk and it wasn’t difficult to find Rachel, Darren and Amber. They were parked up by the fence of the pits.

The security staff wanted to charge me $10:00 for an entry into the pits but enough was enough. It appears that, for the Dodge, I’m paying the same price to stay overnight as one of these monster caravans pulled by one of these monster trucks. A family of 6, occupying six times the footprint that my Dodge is occupying, is paying the same price that I’m paying.

Not only that, the “bigger” pitches have water and electricity too – I don’t have anything like that and so you can see that I’m being ripped off even more by the Clinton Lions Club and I am extremely unhappy (to say the least) about all of this. So there was no way that I was paying an extra $10:00 on top of all of this to visit the others. I made “other arrangements”.

amber perdy in the pink clinton lions club tractor pull maine usaDarren needed some help to fetch “Perdy in the Pink” out of the trailer but before I could volunteer, I was overwhelmed by Amber who rushed to his assistance.

With Hannah now having started University Darren finds himself a pair of hands short, so I can well imagine Amber stepping into the breach in a couple of years time. Nothing like starting early.

So having done that, we all relaxed and chilled in the sunshine while we waited for the competition to start.

clinton lions club tractor pull maine usaThere are various classes of pulling vehicles. This is one of the competitors in the diesel 2.6 – 3-litre class and it looks like an old-time steam train roaring across the prairie or up into the Rockies or something. I’m glad that there were only a couple of competitors in this class, and so is the planet.

So Darren went to pull but found to his surprise that his tractor was overweight. With Hannah having driven it until recently it was set up for her. Some of the weight balances had to be taken off the tractor and as it was easier to do it from the back, this was from where the weights came out.

This also meant that the tow hitch was too high and this needed to be wound down a couple of inches.

As a result, the machine was totally out of balance and so the first run wasn’t particularly impressive.

We spent the next couple of hours readjusting the weights and rebalancing the tractor so that the weight was correct and all in the right place, but as Darren was about to start his second run, this was when the heavens opened and we were all drenched in a torrential downpour, the like of which I had rarely seen. There was no grip on the track for Darren so the tractor simply slid across the track when it set out with the load.

The competition was immediately cancelled and that was that. We were there in the pouring rain cleaning off the tractor before we put it back in the trailer and that was that. We went off to the fairground where I had chips and onion rings for tea. And after that, an early night, in soaking wet clothes.

And who in his right mind builds mudguards with pointy aluminium front ends? Cleaning off the front tyre, I’ve ripped open the side of my thumb. That isn’t half painful, I can tell you.

Friday 5th September 2014 – MEANWHILE, BACK AT THE CAMP SITE …

mileaway camp site lake camp site new hampshire usa… I had had one of the best nights sleep that I had ever had – flat-out for about 9 hours non-stop and I was awake quite early.

So after updating my notes on the computer I had a lovely wash (but I’m still drawing the line at paying for a hot shower on top of whatever campsite fees I’ve paid already) and then a breakfast of bagels, strawberry jam and coffee (the orange juice has gone off, so it seems).

campsite new hampshire usaIt was still early and so I went for a wander around the lake in the early-morning sun.

And the place was as quiet as the grave too, even though there were quite a few campers on the site. I came to the conclusion that I would have been quite happy to have stayed here for a few days in the peace and quiet. I might have found a little peace, but I’m not sure how I would be able to keep her quiet.

mary baker eddy christian science mount pleasant concord new hampshire usaOne of the places that I encountered on my travels was this building here in Concord, New Hampshire. This is the site of a house called Mount Pleasant which was the home of Mary Baker Eddy, founder of the Christian Scientists. The building now on the site was formerly the Home for retired Christian Scientist parcticioners and nurses.

I shan’t pass any comment about what I think about Christian Scientists, but any religion, and I do mean any religion, that owns a place like this and reserves it for its personnel when there are billions starving and living in poverty needs to have another good read of the Scriptures, and in particular the bit that says “give all that thous hast to the poor”.


But from here I’ve had a couple of illusions shattered, and another opinion strongly reinforced.

Firstly, I stopped at a place that was selling redundant school buses – dozens of them all about the place, but despite it being 11:00 in the morning, the place was as deserted as the Mary Celeste. Not a soul about at all – no-one to try to sell me a school bus. Normally, whenever you set foot in a shop in the USA you are immediately overwhelmed by sales personnel. Here, when you really do want to find one, there’s no-one about at all.

Secondly, at a caravan sales place, a salesman was summoned to talk to be about jack-leg pickup bed caravans, but on the way over he stopped to talk to someone else for a good five minutes leaving me like piffy on a rock. When he finally came over, even my taunt of “if you’re far too busy to talk to me I’ll come back later” didn’t elicit even a hint of an apology. Yes, the legendary American customer service is really going down the pan.

The other incident relates to the Royal Bank of Scotland, with which I an unfortunate enough to bank. I went into a branch of the Citizen’s Bank of New Hampshire, the North American affiliate of the RBS, to withdraw some cash, and my transaction was declined. This was the final straw in a long line of miserable dealings with what I consider to be the world’s worst bank, and I shall be sorting out this sorry state of affairs when I return.

From there it was a case of driving all the wy across Maine and I arived at Clinton at 16:00, eactly as predicted.

I’ve witnessed a childrens’ pig scramble (which with the present state of affairs in the USA you are not allowed to photograph) and a tractor pull event, and had chips (fries) for tea.

And then I proved that it is completely possible to sleep through a tractor pull event, but not a firework display.

Thursday 4th September 2014 – OLD HABITS DIE HARD

Indeed they do? I’m at it again, even in the USA.

overnight parking rest area interstate 87 new york state usaThis is where I spent last night – on a motorway service area on Interstate 87 up at the top end of New York State. This is what it looked like at about half an hour after dawn because I was up early. I’d had something of a restless night.

But you can see why I was happy to stay here. The surroundings were beautiful and the smell of pine essence was overpowering. There wasn’t too much noise either, which makes a change for a motorway rest area.

crushed cars on trailer rest area interstate 87 new york state usaI wasn’t alone on here by any means. There were plenty of cars about, as you can see on this trailer. Most of the overnight residents on here were Canadians heading south – I hardly noticed a lorry from the USA. It’s something about which I’ve often wondered – where do lorries from the USA park up overnight because you don’t see them parked up in every lay-by as you do in Europe.

Mind you, you don’t see many lay-bys either in North America, something about which I’ve often commented.

I found a Home Depot (eventually) and I’ve bought a couple of things that I needed. I had to go to a second one though for an angle grinder (passing by a Walmart on the way where I left half of my shopping and had to go back for it).

It was quite exciting in this second Home Depot. According to the Home depot computer, there should have been 6 there but there were none on display. Eventually I found someone who confirmed that they had some but he couldn’t find them either. Eventually he located them up on the top shelf, so he fetched a ladder, climbed up and passed one down to me. Then he started to descend the ladder. “Aren’t you going to get the others down then?” I asked. “Either customers will walk away empty-handed or else you’ll be climbing back up that ladder again”

One of the things that I’ve been moaning about too is the price that I’m having to pay these days for hiring vehicles. The idea of buying one to keep in North America has often gone through my head but finding the right kind of vehicle has always been an obstacle.

wholesale cars for sale new york state usaI wouldn’t have any problems here though. There must be a thousand vehicles here, many of which are Ford Ranger 4×4 pickups and prices start from about $4800 which is reasonable.

They are all bulk-buys from Government institutions, such as the Police as you can see, and the owner reckons that he has about 100 new vehicles every week. Anyway, I have a card from him and I shall be giving the matter some serious thought.

From here I’ve been on Highway 9 heading east towards the Maine coast but I’m not making very much progress with things that there are to see.

hogback mountain 100 mile view vermont usaThis is the view from Hogback Mountain in Vermont. This particular spot is called the Hundred Mile View, so-called because you can see for 100 miles from here.

It’s probably true as well, becaus that mountain right over there in the distance looks rather like the big mountain at the back of Millinocket in Maine, although I bet that it probably isn’t.

This area was quite an important ski area at one time but rising insurance premiums and falling snow levels … "DECREASING SNOW FALL" – ed … due to global warming have caused its abandonment.

1933 Pontiac new hampshire usaThis is a 1933 Pontiac saloon parked up in New Hampshire and it’s for sale for … errr … $19500, a price that stopped me in my tracks. I stopped to take a couple of photos and the owner came out for a chat. He’s totally rebuilt it from the ground up – one of many that he’s done because he’s 76 and been doing this for 60 years

It’s not for me though, because it’s been rebuilt to modern standards with a “350 V8” engine, a modern auto box, hydraulic disc brakes and all that kind of thing. There’s probably very little that is the original vehicle which is a shame if you ask me, but that’s how vintage vehicle “restoration” is carried out in North America.

From here I came across a camp site just as the sun was setting, so I’ve stopped here for the night on a pitch with a beautiful view across the lake. It’s a lovely place to spend the night, as you will soon find out.

Wednesday 3rd September 2014 – WELL, I HAD AN EXCITING DAY TODAY.

And here is the result of my visits to places of historic interest along the lower part of the valley of the River Richelieu

The Museum of Fort St Jean – closed since yesterday for renovation and to be moved into a new building

Fort Lennox on the Ile aux Noix – open Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays

The blockhouse at St Paul de l’Ile aux Noix – closed since yesterday

The museum at Lacolle – open at weekends only.

Yes, I’m not having much luck at all with the Canadian Tourist season, am I?

I had better luck at Bell Telephones in St Jean sur Richelieu. Someone who actually knew what he was talking about had me conected in five minutes – at a price, mind you (we are talking about Bell Telephones of course) but I’m now connected. I’ve had to have a new number – it’s 740 6186 but the area code remains the same as before.

So off to the Fort St Jean and found that it was closed, but a helpful woman military person allowed me to wander around the barracks and to take photos, as long as I didn’t go inside any buildings.

world war II anti U boat homing torpedo fort st jean River Richelieu valley quebec canadaThere are lots of old military equipment there so I was in my element for a good hour or so. This is an anti-U-boat homing torpedo from World War II. It’s the type that was launched either from the air or from a ship.

It’s certainly quite an interesting artefact to see, especially as I’ve been spending a lot of time wading my way through Clay Blair’s rather polemic and viciously anti-British submarine book just recently.

There were lots of other stuff there – tanks and aeroplanes and so on – so I didn’t have a totally wasted morning.

anchor fury perry somerset island fort st jeanRiver Richelieu valley quebec canadaProbably the most important thing in the fort, at least from my point of view, were these anchors. They were discovered in Fury Bay on Somerset Island, which is in the High Arctic.

They are said to come from the ship – the Fury of William Parry (he after whom Parry Sound in the High Arctic is named) which was crushed in the ice one winter in the early 19th Century during one of his explorations to pass through the North-West passage.

fort lennox ile au noix River Richelieu valley quebec canadaSo at Fort Lennox I was disappointed. Not just by the fact that the fort was closed to visitors but the fact that the fort was situated on an island and there was no possible access to the island for even a wander around outside the fort.

There was someone from Parks Canada on site and so I bent his ear about the desperate tourism facilities on offer here. If you come here during the summer season you can’t find a campsite or a motel because they are full. If you come here outside the summer season you can’t find a campsite or a motel because they are closed.

You just can’t win.

Blockhouse st paul de l'ile aux noix River Richelieu valley quebec canadaThe blockhouse at the River Lacolle was also closed. It was part of the border fortifications controlling the access up the Richelieu valley and was built in 1778 after the American incursions of 1776.

Its claim to fame was that in March 1814 it held out against 4000 American soldiers bent on invading Canada, and in November 1838 it was the site of the last stand of the “Patriots”.

It’s the only blockhouse left in Quebec now, but regular readers of this rubbish will remember that we encountered one in Edmundston in New Brunswick a few years ago.

From there I went on to the town of Lacolle and with the museum closed, visited the site of the enigmatic “Battle of Lacolle Bridge”. Here in thick fog on 20th November 1812 the American forces prepared to attack the British forces but someone accidentally discharged a firearm.

This caused the Americans to start shooting, and ended up inflicting heavy casualties upon their own troops. This caused them to retreat in disarray without embarrassing the defenders at all.

d'antan magasin general hemmingford River Richelieu valley quebec canadaAt Hemmingford I encountered the “d’Antan magasin General”- a shop that was set out in the style of a shop of 100-odd years ago.

I had an interesting chat with the proprietor of the shop – I kept her away from her jam-bottling and sauce-making. We put the world to rights for a good half an hour and I ended up with a handful of traditional sweets and a cup of coffee so I’m not complaining and I’ll come back here again if ever I get the chance.

We then drove on for our usual confrontation with the American border farces down the road. I’m sure that there’s no real reason for them to be so … err … difficult with cross-border tourists and they would make tourists feel much more welcome if they would be a little less confrontational and a little more friendly. After all, it’s tourists like me that keep them in employment and if they chased everyone away from crossing the border they would all be out of a job.

I fuelled up just across the border and then set off down Highway 87 through the Adirondacks and the beautiful smell of fresh pine until I came across a welcome rest area where I’m settling down for the night.
l

Tuesday 2nd September 2014 – AFTER A REALLY GOOD NIGHT’S SLEEP …

volvo tractor winching boat from river richelieu valley quebec canadaI went for a walk around the campsite and was treated to this sight here. Someone is having a boat recovered from the marina here on the Richelieu River, and the campsite here has this huge Volvo tractor and trailer unit to perform tasks like this.

Something of a monster, I don’t suppose that recovering the Queen Mary would have been beyond its power. Still, watching it with this boat was a good way to start off the morning.

From here, I set off down the road to the locks at St Ours. The Richelieu Valley (heading north) connects up with the Hudson valley (heading south) forming something of an easy route between Montreal and New York. We came up the Hudson last year, you may remember, and you’ll recall that it was the scene of several bloody encounters between the British, the French, the Americans and the natives in the 17th and early 18th Centuries.

locks st ours canal river richelieu valley quebec canadaOnce peace (of a sort) had finally descended on the valley it was decided to construct a canal to facilitate water transport around several of the rapids along the way.

These are the locks on the river at the town of St Ours. The original lock is the one that has been filled in, on the left of the photo. The new one, built in the 1930s is larger and was built to correspond with the size of the locks down in the Hudson Valley.

for sale chevrolet delray river richelieu valley quebec canadaThis car is a 1958 Chevrolet Delray, and it’s for sale if you are interested. A mere $9,000 (or near offer) and it’s yours, but only if you are prepared for a lot of work because, leaving aside the question of the accident damage for the moment, it isn’t in very good condition.

$9,000 will be only the start of your expenditure to put this car back on the road, which is a shame.

Mind you, I’ve seen cars up for sale in much worse condition than this, although not at this kind of price.

Next town along the road is that of St Denis Sur Richelieu. This was the home of Louis-Joseph Papineau, leader of the 1837 rebellion against – not the Anglais as all of the signs round here insist – but the Britanniques (and it says something for the Quebecois extremists and their attitudes that they can’t even get that correct).

Everywhere you go, there are plaques saying things like “Papineau bought a loaf of bread from a boulangerie situated on this spot” and “this is the spot where Papineau scrathed his nose”.

st denis sur richelieu river richelieu valley quebec canadaThis is not one of those – this is the spot where in November 1837 a group of “patriots” repelled an attack by 500 regular (British, not English) troops.

What the plaque doesn’t tell you is that 10 days later the regular troops returned to St Denis and burned down the town, there being no opposition as the “patriots” had all run away and hidden across the border in the USA, just down the road from here.

There is however another little plaque hidden away somewhere that does mention in small letters that the American forces on Independence visited the town in 1776 and shot some innocent civilian bystanders in cold blood, so any idea that that the Quebecois have nothing but a total and utter depraved and warped fixation about the nasty and horrible Anglais (and not Britannique) is totally false.

almond milk vegan ice cream river richelieu valley quebec canadaNow this is an interesting find, isn’t it?

It’s a pot of ice cream but made, not with cows’ milk but with almond milk. The packaging proudly proclaims that it’s a non-dairy dessert and this is confirmed by the list of ingredients, and it came from a mainstream supermarket, the IGA, too.

Europe, and especially France, is a hundred years behind the times when it comes to items like this. Being a vegan, an addition of something like this to my regular diet would have me in paradise.

And it was gorgeous too.

fort de chambly river richelieu valley quebec canadaChambly is the next town down the line and at the head of the little lake here is a stone fort of the 18th Century – the fourth fort to be built on the site.

It’s purpose is to control the access to the rapids here on the River Richelieu, a portage where people would have to get out of their canoes and carry them overland to a smoother section of water.

The tourist season at the fort seems to last for another few weeks yet and so I was quite optimistic about visiting it, but I arrived on a Tuesday and you don’t need me to tell you what day it is that the fort has its Day of Rest.

river richelieu valley quebec canada


locks canal chambly river richelieu valley quebec canadaIn the 19th Century the portage became a thing of the past when, as part of the navigational improvements, the Chambly Canal was built to by-pass the rapids and ease navigation between Montreal and New York.

These are the locks that lift the boats up to the level of the ground behind the rapids, and the canal carries the traffic along to rejoin the river further back.

So now I’m off to find a campsite for the evening. It’s threatening rain and it’s not very optimistic.

Monday 1st Sepember 2014 – NEW TOY

Now that I’m back in bass-playing mood again, I can’t do with 7 weeks deprivation while I’m in North America so I’ve been scouring the second-hand and junk shops in a desultory fashion while I’ve been wandering around in Montreal.

squier fender jaguar bass montreal quebec canadaAnd this is what I discovered. It’s a Squier Jaguar bass guitar – a short-scale model (which means that you can play it in a confined space like a Dodge Grand Caravan).

Made by Fender (ptah!) so they say, the world’s leading manufacturer of bass guitars, but that’s only so that people can say that they own a Fender, it’s cheap and basic. Probably about $250 worth of guitar.

But it’s surprisingly easy to play and has a very smooth action, something that took me by surprise, and so I had a good session with it in this pawn shop in the rue Queen Mary. $169 they wanted for it, but after a long and complicated negotiation that went on for a couple of days, we agreed on $100 with the case thrown in so I’m quite satisfied with that.

dodge grand caravan montreal quebec canadaTalking of Dodge Grand Caravans, this is this year’s beast. 4 weeks old and with 3200 kms on the clock. The fools. It’ll have a little bit more than that on the clock when it comes back.

It’s so new that it still has this lovely new-car smell. But I wonder what smell it ill have after I’ve been sleeping in it for 7 weeks.

I’m back on the road now, and this was a photo taken at my lunch stop, the Parc St Laurent at Repentigny.

msc maria laura st lawrence river st ignace sorel-tracy quebec canadaIt’s not taken me long to find a ferry though, has it?

This is the crossing between St Ignace and Sorel-Tracy and the passage is delayed while the huge container ship MSC Maria-Laura comes sailing past. She’s an old Panama-registered ship of 42500 tonnes, dating from 1988 and looks every day of her age, and is on her way to Montreal via a whole series of North American ports.

alcyone st lawrence river st ignace sorel-tracy  quebec canadaIn fact it was my lucky day for ships at St Ignace – there must have been half a dozen streaming in a line up the St Lawrence.

This is the Alcyone, built in 2002 and wearing the colours of the Canadian Steamship Lines but now Greek-owned. She’s come upriver on her way in from Chile via the Panama Canal. She’s a bulk carrier of 50,000 tonnes.

campsite st ours river richelieu quebec canadaSo now I’m at my camp site. It’s the Parc Bellerive on the River Richelieu near St Ours. This is where I’ll be staying the night. And quite a pleasant night it is too.

It’s a little noisy here fortunately, as it is on most camp sites, but I’m going to have another early night and they can all do as they like.

Sunday 31st August 2014 – WELL I’M GLAD …

montreal by night from mount royal canada… that I had bought a cheap lightweight tripod in a brocante in France a few years ago, and brought it over to Canada. It’s certainly earning its keep.

I ended up on the top of Mount Royal last night – at the Maison Smith, where there are some of the most spectacular views of the city. And the view at night with all of the street lights is absolutely stunning as you can see.

st lawrence river montreal by night canadaHere’s the view right down one of the main boulevards in the city, with all of the traffic, and you can see in the distance the reflection of the lights, shimmering off the surface of the St Lawrence River.

It really is a magnificent place to be on a late-summer evening. It’s a place not to be missed, especially if you can manage a nocturnal visit.

You can tell, can’t you, that i’ve picked up my car this evening. A Red Dodge Grand Caravan, just 4weeks old and still with the distinctive smell of “new car” about it. It has just 3200 kms on the clock, the fools. You would have thought that they would have known me better by now.

canal lachine ecluse st gabriel Montreal CanadaThis morning I braved the gloom ond overcast fog to go down to the Lachine Canal – the canal that took the ships around the Lachine rapids prior to the building of the St Lawrence Seaway in the 1950s. It’s just used for pleasure traffic now but it is quite a historic place to be as much of Canada’s industry from the days of the Industrial Revolution was based here.

Bit I had an encounter with the forces of law and order. They drove their car up the pavement to stop me advancing and, on leaving the car, asked me all kinds of questions such as who I was, where had I been, what was I doing, and “show us your photos”.

I shall refrain from passing any kind of really acerbic comment, as anyone who has ever followed much of what I have written will know them already, but even Canada now has become a Police State like East Germany or the USSR. How must people like Krushchev and Honecke be laughing their heads off at the West as here, there are controls imposed that will mach anything that they ever imposed upon their citizens, after the West spent 50 years denouncing their system and doing all in their power to denounce it.

When is a Wzstern politician going to stand up and say “yes, the Soviets did have a point”.

statue Paul Cholmedy Sieur de Maisonneuve Montreal CanadaSo abandoning yet another good rant, I ended up in the city centre and went to see the statue of Paul Cholmedy, Sieur de Maisonneuve.

he was the person who founded Montreal in 1642 and while it is often claimed that he led the people through the bitter period of the first 20 years of its existence, fighting for its life against the Iroquois, the fact is that quite often he was back in France pleading for help in the form of colonists and soldiers while his colonists quite often bore the brunt of the Iroquois savagery all on their own.

At the start of one of his journeys, he told one of his colonists “if I’m not back with more aid, dismantle the colony and bring everyone home” – without explaining to her how she should accomplish this task without a ship and without soldiers to fight their way back to Quebec.

It was here that I had an interesting encounter in one of these sandwich places –
Sandwich Artist (huh?) – “what would you like on your sandwich?”
Our Hero – “nothing but vegetables”
Sandwich Artist – “do you want cheese with that?”
And you can’t make up story like that either.

quebec gas board destry historic cobbled street in old Montreal CanadaHere’s something that filled me with dismay when I saw it.

I’d seen a few leaflets telling me that the Quebec gas Board was replacing gas mains in the city so I was expecting to see street repairs, but I wasn’t quite expecting to see this. Here, the gas main has been replaced but clearly they can’t find anyone in the whole of the country who is able to fit cobble stones. So here in Old Montreal we have a tarmac strip.

What on earth will the world be like in 50 years tile with all of these old crafts and professions disappearing?

gare viger Montreal CanadaTalking of things disappearing, I went to see my favourite building in the whole of Montreal. It’s the Gare Viger, the Viger railway station and another old Canadian Pacific relic.

It’s been abandoned for years and so no-one is allowed inside. probably so as not to notice the consition into which the Government (for it’s now a Government building) has allowed it to continue.

project development gare viger Montreal CanadaHowever a slightly open window is no barrier to the intrepid photographer, is it?

It seems that there’s a plan afoot (“what’s afoot?” … "about 12 inches" – ed) to do something with it, but the images on the plans that I saw bear no resemblance to how the building looks at the moment. I have sore misgivings … "well, put some ointment on them" – ed.

From here I braved the torrential downpour that we were having and went to catch the bus to the airport. Two sides of the road to guess from of course, and of course you know that Our Hero guessed wrong. But anyway, hemmed in like sardines we hurtled off like a rocket and were there in 30 minutes.

And then I picked up my car.