Tag Archives: corner brook

Sunday 16th August 2015 – PLEASANT COMPANY EXPECTED

If you thought that last night’s two drivers were unusually friendly and helpful, then the encounters today have topped all of that off in spades, I’ll tell you that.

I was up at the crack of dawn this morning (lucky dawn!) and after a good shower I set to work. First thing to do was to try to remember my nocturnal ramblings. I was in van somewhere in England (yes, England, not the UK) and I was on a photography expedition going somewhere but every time that I tried to take a photograph my camera fell apart and thos kept on happening with monotonous regularity. There was one place that I particularly remembered – a tiny village in a low valley where the road took a sharp right-hand bend right by the village green where there was a telephone box.

But anyway, enough of that for now.

The breakfast room at the hotel was crowded and we ran out of coffee and jam – and I remembered to make something of a little note about this – but while I was looking for the breakfast attendant I came across a second breakfast room which had apparently been missed by everyone else because it was quite empty.

aeroplanes taking off from pierre trudeau airport dorval montreal quebec canadaWith it being Sunday, the buses didn’t start running until late so it gave me an opportunity to have a good session on the computer and catch up on a few things. I had a good look out of the window too, and I do have to say that the view from here is one of the best that I can hope to have.

It’s not as noisy as you might think with the new generation of jets, and it’s a shame that the big KLM jumbo jet takes off in the dark.

And then it was off to the town.

First stop was to buy some water where the girl at the cash desk gave a big sigh as I was counting out the cash. What a way to start the day, so I gave her a little “piece of advice”, as they say in the Police Farce.

I went onwards to the Tourist Information office for a map (I’d left mine behind) and there I fell in with a woman who was on her was from Vancouver to Newfoundland. She was travelling via the Trans-Canada Highway and so we had a spritied discussion about going via the Trans-Labrador Highway and across from Blanc Sablon.

musi students sunday brunch performance place jacques cartier montreal quebec canadaIn the Place Jacques Cartier just around the corner we were treated to some street musicians.

In fact every Saturday and Sunday during July and August various little groups of musicians entertain the crowds, and these five people are from one of the many music academies around the city. I do have to say that while their selection of music was not my type, I quite enjoyed the atmosphere – which is one of the best reasons to be here.

quai de l'horloge st lawrence river montreal quebec canadaI had a wander off down to the Quai de l’Horloge to sit in the sun, lap up the atmosphere, watch the river and (most importantly) to eat my butties as it was now my kind of lunchtime.

There was plenty going on on the river – lots of marine traffic and the like, but nothing over about 15 tonnes which for me, at any rate, was something of a disappointment. Where’s the 150,000 tonne tanker when you need it?

And, if the truth was known, I had a little doze in the sunshine too. It’s been a long time since I’ve done that, and I find that the water is quite relaxing.

algonova quayside st lawrence river montreal quebec canadaWith nothing here worth photographing, I wandered off down to the Point by the clock tower to see what was in the docks and I was lucky in that the Algonova was there. She had been there for a while too, having come from Corner Brook in Newfoundland.

She might not look it, but she’s quite a modern ship, dating from as recently as 2007, and cost about $43,000,000, which is a lot of money to have sitting idle, tied up at the quayside.

So having mused on that for quite a while, I was all ready to move off when a couple of teenage girls squeezed in next to me. One of them was discreetly trying to look at my map so I let her have it.

We started off a conversation – ohhh yes, I can still chat up the females, even though, at my age, I can’t remember why- and of course, my plans to leave were completely abandoned.

Their parents joined in the chat too. They are from Winnipeg and visiting Montreal for a holiday. The chat quickly led to a much wider field and of course, Labrador came up in the chat. The Labrador Tourist Board ought to be paying me a commission.

Once everyone had cleared off, I went to have a look at my favourite building – the Gare Viger. They’ve knocked down a few more internal walls but that’s about all. Nothing much else is being done.

But here I had another one of those legendary encounters. Some woman van driver needed to do to an address in a street behind me, but it had all been cut off by roadworks and she wondered how she was going to get there. As soon asI openedmy mouth, she said “sorry, I didn’t realise that you weren’t local” – but as it happened, I did know the area where we were and I knew how to get to the address concerned.

And then she drove off with my rucksack and I had to run after her.

water skiing riviere des prairies laval quebec canadaOn the underground, I went to the Cartier metro station at Laval, to see the riviere des Praries. From the Pont Viau there were some lovely views with all kinds of things to see, including a car trying to drive up the cycle path.

There was a lot of maritime activity here too, including some water-skiing. And that I found quite astonishing. If the river has that much of a slope on it, how come Quebec Hydro hasn’t put a dam across it and fitted a few hydro turbos?

montmorency metro montreal laval quebec canadaThe end of the orange line at Montmorency is actually the big University campus at the back of Laval. Leaving the station, I went for a wander around but I didn’t stay too long. There wasn’t anything interesting (from my point of view) to see.

But there was a guy of my age pacing up and down outside.
"You look as if you are waiting for someone" I said
"Yes, my daughter" he replied
"Well, I’d forget about her and take someone else. I’ve seen a few girls that I wouldn’t mind taking home instead of my daughter."

parking spaces montmorency metro station laval montreal quebec canadaParking featured quite a lot on these pages at one time, and here’s a good example of street parking in North America.

Not so much of how the cars are parked but the size of the parking places. Anyone from Europe could park a lorry in spaces as big as this, never mind a compact car. It did remind me of the time that I reversed into a car parking space somewhere in the USA, watched by quite a crowd.

And someone asked me why I’d reversed in, to which I replied “because I can. I’m from Europe”.

There was an incident on the metro and traffic was “perturbed”. But eventually I arrived at Cote-des-Neiges and my plate of falafel, salad and chips. There was a football match on the TV, a Major League Soccer match. And I have to say that I wasn’t impressed. A couple of stars of European football having one last pay-day and a few local players, and it was all about Third or Fourth Division standard

In the Metro supermarket was a note – “due to Quebec Employment legislation, we are only allowed to employ a maximim of four people after 21:00, on Sundays and Public Holidays”. No-one in the supermarket thought that strange. But I can’t imagine any other Government, anywhere else in the western world, putting maximum limits on how many people are allowed to be employed in an enterprise in the middle of an employment crisis.

Another friendly, chatty bus driver on the way back and even though it was only 21.45 I crashed out yet again.

And what a nice day too. I’ve met loads of helpful, friendly people and had a few interesting chats with some very pleasant company.

Saturday 20th September 2014 – IN WHICH OUR HERO FINDS HIMSELF STRANDED

I had a really good night’s sleep last night which was quite a surprise seeing as I was only about 100 or so metres from the Trans Canada Highway.

And I was on my travels too last night. I was with the two lads with whom I used to play in a rock group in the 1970s, and I still had their gear from the 70s. I had a lengthy chat with Dave the drummer. He had forgotten about his Premier kit and had bought something rather lesser, and was still playing the drums today. Meantime I’d stopped for a coffee. there was an automatic machine that took two dollars, so I put in my two-dollar piece but nothing happened. Damm! Anyway, I became distracted and forgot, so a little later I put in another 2 dollars, and still nothing happened but about 6 2-dollar pieces fell out. So I stayed by the machine and said nothing to those people who were putting their cash into the machine, so they lost it. Every now and again I’d put 2 dollars in and all the cash that others had put in would drop out for me to collect.

camp site corner brook newfoundland canada september 2014And on that note I woke up. Nice and early which is just as well as I had plenty to do. But first, I had to take full advantage of the showers there at this camp site place. It’s why I had stopped here and why I’m not dossing on a car park tonight. It’s been several days since I’ve had a really good wash.

This is my spec at the camp site, the one on the right underneath the trees. Quite comfortable it was too.

I’d done an inventory of the foodstuffs last night and there were no tins of beans left so I had to wander off to the big supermarket at Corner Brook to stock up. And then off up the Trans Canada Highway.

I fuelled up at Deer Lake, as well as putting 20 litres of fuel in the can – I’ll probably need that around Labrador, and then headed off up the Viking Trail.

gros morne national park viking trail newfoundland canada september 2014The first 20 miles or so out of Deer Lake was very monotonous and boring, with nothing of any note, but all of a sudden I came over a rise in the ground and there was the most stunning view down into the valley

I’m about to enter the Gros Morne National Park which is one of the most beautiful parts of Newfoundland – at least, of the parts that are easily accessible.

newfoundland canada september 2014Entry to the park is free if one doesn’t use the facilities, which I don’t intend to do. But the place certainly was beautiful and I would have taken some marvellous photos had the weather been better. Although it’s not raining, the skies are heavily overcast and there is a very strong wind blowing up the valley

Then again, I don’t really have too much time for sightseeing as I have plenty of ground to cover today and not a lot of time to do it.

hurricane force storm rocky point viking trail newfoundland canada september 2014By the time I found the seaside the strong wind had developed into a full-blown storm as you can see from the sea here. It’s a real green sea out there, and that is all nothing more than about 100 metres offshore.

From there on, the wind worsened and on one occasion I was blown from my feet as I left the car to take a photo. I’ve never ever been in a wind that was quite like this.

I arrived at the dockside at St Barbe at just after 19:30 after my marathon drive up here in some of the wildest weather that I’ve ever experienced, to find that all of today’s sailings have all been cancelled due to the weather. There’s a queue as long as your arm for the sailings tomorrow. If there are any, that is, because the forecast doesn’t look all that good.

I’ve found a little spec on the docks and I’ll be staying here until further notice.

Friday 19th September 2014 – NEWFOUNDLAND

I was half-expecting to find myself on the old “Caribou” again seeing as how we were sailing from Cape Breton Island to Newfoundland. Not the old, old Caribou because that was sunk by a U-boat in 1943 but its replacement, which was out here still when I passed by in 2010.

stena traveller highlanders ferry marine atlantic newfoundland canada september 2014However, Marine Atlantic has been spending your (or, rather, the Canadian Government’s taxpayers’ money) on some new ships, such as the Highlanders, which brought us over here to Newfoundland.

But don’t be misled, because it might be new to here, but it’s not “new” by any means”. IT is in fact the old Stena Traveller, built in Russia and which formerly did the run between Hoek van Holland and Killingholme in the United Kingdom until it was retired.

She’s now had 40 feet cut out of her middle, been rewelded, and is now sailing across here on one of the roughest ferry crossings in the world.

twin hills newfoundland canada september 2014Once I’d sorted myself out I set off up the coast, passing one of the most famous sites in Newfoundland.

These are the Twin Hills, and remind me of something out of a Leslie Nielsen film. And may a Newfoundland schoolboy has doubled up in laughter at seeing them, which just goes to show that it isn’t only me with a Juvenile mind.

cape ray lighthouse newfoundland canada september 2014From here I went on to Cape Ray lighthouse.

The lighthouse itself is of no real significance (it’s the third on the site, the other two having burnt down) except that it guards the entrance to the Strait of Belle Isle, but it’s here that the first submaring telegraph cable was laid between Newfoundland and the North American mainland, as far back as 1856.

There have also been archaeological excavations here that revealed a fairly complex Dorset-Inuit settlement, a camp for hunting harp seal.

typical newfoundland scenery canada september 2014Carrying on northwards we encounter some typical Newfoundland scenery. Mountains, rivers, lakes, islands, flat plain and trees.

And not to mention the heavy rainclouds because Newfoundland is noted for its somewhat excessive number of rainy days per year – about 300 or something like that.

But considering that this is at sea level or thereabouts, you can see that the climate has changed dramatically since we crossed the Gulf of St Lawrence.

boutte de cap st george newfoundland canada september 2014This is the Boutte de Cap St George – the head of the peninsula that sticks out to guard the entrance to the bay, the name of which I can’t remember, upon which the town of Stephenville is situated.

Beautiful weather isn’t it, but you’ll see across the bay the storm that is raging. And five minutes after taking this photo I got the lot right upon my head.

mainland newfoundland canada september 2014Newfoundlanders are noted for their … well … eccentricity, so I feel quite at home here. And I would do too in a garden such as this. This is one of two in the small town of Mainland that have been imaginatively decorated, so hats off to the owners.

But as you might expect, I’m probably the only vehicle to drive down here for the last 6 months or something, yet when I stopped to take a photo here, half of the town turned out in their vehicles to create an almighty traffic jam.

It always happens to me.

Tonight I’ve found a small campsite just outside Corner Brook. It’s been a good few days since I’ve had a shower and a shave so that’s the reason that I’m not dossing in a layby. A good shower will do me the world of good.

Thursday 21st October 2010 – I KNOW THAT I SAID …

caribou car ferry channel port aux basques newfoundland north sydney cape breton island nova scotia canada… that I wouldn’t be blogging tonight but here I am in the harbour (well, the terminal, not actually in the harbour) of the ferry terminal at Channel Port Aux Basques with a few hours to go before I sail back to civilisation and I’ve discovered an internet hotspot.

And furthermore some very kind lady fellow passenger has shown me how to configure my computer to use it, so here I am

bed and breakfast corner brook newfoundland canadaLast night’s B&B was exciting. $50 a night for the room and breakfast. Breakfast was help-yourself, make it yourself, cook it yourself – just like last night’s meal where my stock of food was put to good account.

And although the room was advertised as “with private bath” I quickly learnt that what that meant was that when it was your turn to go in, you could have it to yourself without 20 people clambering in with you.

And that’s not as strange as it might appear either as all through breakfast different people kept on appearing – out of the attic, from tunnels in the ground, all kinds of places. It was a hobbit-hole to go with the best. But who’s complaining? $50 with breakfast and I could do with some more places like that on my travels.

typical newfoundland scenery canadaI wasn’t in a great rush to get to Channel Port Aux Basques as the ferry wasn’t until the late evening so I had a leisurely drive southwards.

The scenery along the road is typical of the western side of Newfoundland and in the early morning sunlight with a hanging cloud so typical of my own home in the Auvergne in France, I could be quite at home here.

abandoned American air base USAAF stephenville newfoundland canadaAlong the road I noticed a sign for the town of Stephenville and that rang a big bell with me. During World War II Britain mortgaged everything that it had in order to raise the cash to buy weapons from the USA and when the money ran out, they started selling off the land.

The US Air Force took over a large area of land here at Stephenville and built a huge air base, aimed primarily at refuelling the bombers that were always on patrol ready to attack the Soviet Union. It remained in service until guided missiles and rockets took over from bombers, whereupon it was abandoned.

lighthouse cap anguille newfoundland canadaI stopped for lunch by the seaside in the shadow of the Cap Anguille lighthouse. We’re close to the entrance of the Strait of Belle Isle here, and this is the short cut out of the Gulf of St Lawrence and Western Europe.

The Strait is narrow and is quite often beset with icebergs, so navigation is not as straightforward as it might be. There are hundreds of wrecks littering the shoreline of the Strait as we know, hence all of the lighthouses along here to warn mariners of the dangers.

typical south western newfoundland scenery canadaWe’re back on the road and back in the typical Western Newfoundland scenery again. This is what the road looks like between Woodville and Codroy, at Bear Brook Cove not far out of Channel Port Aux Basques.

But now you’ll notice something else, and that is that the weather has closed right in. Rain is something that it’s impossible to avoid in Newfoundland and although I’ve done well this last couple of days, it’s finally caught up with me as I prepare to leave.

railway museum channel port aux basques newfoundland canadaAt the entrance to the town of Channel Port Aux Basques is a small railway museum exhibiting relics of the Newfoundland Railway. As a good way to pass the time in the middle of this torrential rainstorm I went over for a wander around to see what I could find about the history of the railway.

However, as you might expect, the museum was closed, and that was that.

fox roost harbour newfoundland canadaI wasn’t going to hang around in the town and so instead, I went for a drive along the southern shore of Newfoundland. After a short drive, I found myself at the harbour at Fox Roost.

In fact, this is what most of the southern shore of Newfoundland looks like and had the weather been better, I would have been happy to spend much more time along here having a really good explore around.

newfoundland railway waggon body fox roost canadaAnd not only is the area famous for its beautiful scenery, it’s also famous for being littered with old waggon bodies from the Newfoundland railway.

The metal frames would be quite valuable for scrap but there would be no market for the bodies and they would make excellent garden sheds and storage units. In fact I could do with a few around here.

harbour le cou road newfoundland canadaThe road only goes so far down along the coast – you have to take a ferry the rest of the way – but right down as far as it is possible to go, there’s harbour le cou road – the road to neck harbour.

And the view from down at the end is just as stunning as the view from this end, but there is a limit to the number of photos that you can put on these pages. To see the rest, you need to go to this page.

By now, it’s going dark and I can see my ship in the distance heading towards port. I need to be heading back or I’ll miss it. And it’s not the Joseph and Clara Smallwood either – it’s the “Caribou”, and so when I went into the ticket office, I did say to the girl at the desk that I hope it doesn’t get torpedoed tonight in mid-channel. But that went clean over her head.

But here’s a thing.

There’s a cigarette lighter socket in the boot of Casey, and it only works when the ignition is switched on. I’ve wired a small inverter in there, one that I bought the other day, and I’ve wired the slow cooker into that. At lunchtime I threw in some water, a couple of handfuls of pasta, a small tin of veg, half a tin of beans – and a while later 1/3 of a tin of sauce into it and that’s been cooking away as I’ve been driving around.

While I wouldn’t say that it was boiling, it was certainly hot enough to eat. I reckon that meal cost me less than $1:00 and if I can keep this up, it’ll go some way to bringing the budget back under control.

strawberry moose casey chrysler PT cruiser caribou channel port aux basques newfoundland car ferry north sydney cape breton island nova scotia canadaEventually, we were allowed to board the ship and Strawberry Moose did well to park Casey correctly.

And having wined and dined, I’ve now found myself a nice comfortable reclining seat and I’m all set for a long voyage across the Gulf of St Lawrence, some of the most unpredictable waters in the world, submarine attacks notwithstanding.

Wednesday 20th October 2010 – I ALMOST FORGOT TO BLOG TONIGHT.

Yes, I was about to go to bed for an early night. I’m in Corner Brook for my last night in Newfoundland – a B&B in a private house at $50 for the night and they even let me use the kitchen to cook my tea from my supplies.

puncture casey chrysler pt cruiser canadian tires clarenville newfoundland canadaSo a cheap night tonight – but it needed to be, because this morning I had a nasty surprise. Casey had a flat tyre. 2000 miles down the worst roads in the world and not a thing, and a puncture on the Trans-Canada Highway. And so off to Canadian Tyres it had to be.

But it wasn’t all doom and gloom because they were having a sale of inverters – and I picked up a 75-watt and a 150-watt for just $19.98 for the pair.
And then, incredibly, at Walmart, a 40-watt slow cooker for just $9:99. So off to the dollar store for a pile of tins and so on and I now have all that I need to cook my meals in the car as I drive.

newfoundland railway ruins bridge joeys lookout gambo canadaWe’ve talked about the Newfoundland railway before and every so often I’d been encountering relics that looked very, very railway-like.

Here from my good spec up on Joey’s Lookout, whoever Joey might have been, near Gambo, I had this view and I don’t think that I’ve ever seen anything looking more like a railway line than this. It’s ironic in a sense that the railway, the 20th Century form of transport, has cut off access to the bay for boats, the previous method of transport around here

douglas dc3 dakota cockpit gander air museum newfoundland canadaAnother good stroke of fortune was that the Air Museum at Gander was open and while the girl in charge knew nothing about the missing artefacts she did know two authors of aviation books who are “friends” of the museum.

One of these men worked on the project for the replica flight of Alcock and Brown’s Vimy to celebrate the 75th anniversary. So if anyone knows anything about these objects one of these will.

hunter trapper selling rabbits by roadside gander newfoundland canadaOutside the museum was a fur trapper selling rabbits that he had trapped.

This took me by surprise. I thought that they only did things like that in the Last of the Mohicans but here he was – a genuine 21st Century trapper doing his stuff at the side of a main road in the middle of civilisation. If you were to read this in a novel you wouldn’t believe it.

newfoundland railway relics elmwood bridge canadaA little further on I can actually get in touch with the railway line.

This is a beautiful bow girder bridge across the river at Elmwood. And having been for a little walk along the line, I can tell you that it’s single-track and judging by the radii of some of the curves, narrow gauge too.

So now I know.

bed and breakfast guest house corner brook newfoundland canadaSo now it’s an early night in my guest house at Corner Brook.

There won’t be a posting tomorrow as I’m spending the night on this 7-hour crossing to Cape Breton Island where I’ll be picking up where I left off from my 2003 voyage.

And if I don’t blog the night after, it will be either because wherever I will be staying won’t have internet access, or else the ferry will have sunk. And don’t laugh about that either. On October 14th 1942 the Caribou, one of the predecessors of the ship I’ll be sailing on, was torpedoed by a U boat while crossing over the Gulf of St Lawrence.

And the ship I’ll be sailing on – it’s the first voyage since its rudder and steering gear have been repaired. So anything can happen – and it probably will, but I’ve got my Strawberry Moose to keep me warm.