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Thursday 1st August 2019 – HERE I AM …

… holed up in a dusty motel at a dusty crossroads in a dusty town in Montana called Broadus. Yes, I’m in another State that I had yet to visit although I did cross over a corner of Wyoming (which I visited in 2002, whenever that was.

All this dust explains very well why this area is called the “Powder River” country. Because of all the dust in it, the river is said to be “too thick to drink, but too thin to plough”.

Last night was a beautiful night’s sleep. I went to bed, thoroughly exhausted, before even 20:00 and despite awakening on several occasions during the night, I didn’t finally show a leg until the alarms went off.

There was plenty of time to do everything, including a shower and general spruce-up. Make myself look nice. I even managed breakfast too.

So then packed and off into the sunset looking for the Walmart that I glimpsed yesterday evening. And that took some finding too.

‘Twas a good idea for a good clean-up because the lady at the check-out told me “ohhh do talk some more. I just LOVE your accent”. She didn’t knock anything off the bill though.

At a suitable petrol station in the vicinity I fuelled up the Kia. And it’s not as economical as you might think – 11 US gallons (about 40 litres) to travel about 610 kms.

It had been cloudy and overcast earlier but as I headed into the Black Hills it started to rain. Not enough to dampen my spirits (I was in surprisingly good form today and I’ve no idea why) but rain nevertheless. It didn’t detract from the journey and the beauty and I even wired up the dashcam so that you can see it later.

Round about midday I arrived at Deadwood and headed for Mount Moriah cemetery up in the hills. There I found, lying side by side, the graves of Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane. And listened excruciatingly as a Septic tourist guide explained to his tourists slowly, in words of one syllable (and they were Septics too) that he is NOT the same person as Buffalo Bill.

I despair.

After a while looking around the cemetery and the scenic viewpoint there I headed into town where I was waylaid. This time by a motorcycle restorer who allowed me to catalogue his exhibits.

Pride of place without any doubt at all must go to the Indian 4-cylinder in-line from 1939. Rare as hen’s teeth, which is hardly a surprise as the torque on that motor rotating in the same direction and the heat at the rear cylinder would have made for a very brief riding experience.

Nevertheless I would have taken it home in a heartbeat.

Main Street was nothing to write home about. The parking fee was horrendous so I didn’t stop. I filmed it instead for posterity. Nothing of the original seems to remain. The place has been swept by fire on several occasions since the Gold Rush.

For the first time since Toronto (whenever that was) I had lunch. A butty with hummus and bread followed by a banana. And then I pushed on for almost 140 miles in the now-glorious sunshine across the corner of Wyoming and into Montana.

Reaching Broadus I found a motel. And I’m glad that I did because it’s here that I need to be. It’s in the Powder River Valley and all long here for 50 miles north and south are the sites of skirmishes and fully-fledged battles between the Native Americans and the US Military farces.

Everything about this motel is very 50s, except the landlady who looks old enough and stern enough to have fought the Indians out of this plot of land single-handedly back in the 1880s and, of course, the prices, which are very 21st-Century.

But there’s no other motel for at least 60 miles and it’s right slap-bang where I want to be so it’s not all bad news.

My neighbour is friendly too. Another motorcyclist on his way to the Sturgis motorcycle rally. We had a good long chat about bikes and all sorts of things.

The filter on the air conditioner hasn’t been cleaned in donkey’s yonks though, and having let it run for a couple of hours, my room now smells just like my socks did before I washed them earlier. Yes, I’ve done the laundry, and washed myself at the same time.

Two showers in a day! Whatever next?

The landlady lent me a soup bowl so I’ve had tomato soup (with some pasta) and bread for tea. Three meals today. I hope that it’ll stay in today. And plenty of vitamin drink to keep up the health even though I’m not eating much.

Tomorrow I’m off on the war path so now I’m off to bed. Another night like last night will do me the world of good.

Saturday 9th January 2010 – And if you thought yesterday was depressing …

heavy snow les guis virlet auvergne puy de dome france… today was even worse. I woke up in pitch darkness – whose idea was to to put windows in the roof? – and so first job was to clean off the solar panels. About 10cms of snow had fallen through the night but of course I didn’t realise this at first and went outside in my clogs. Fatal mistake – so I came in, changed my socks and put on my apres-ski boots, and went back outside.

Mind you I needn’t have bothered with the panels – despite being on the roof on several occasions there was not a glimpse of sun at all and I managed the grand total of 0.9 amp-hours all day.

caliburn heavy snow les guis virlet auvergne puy de dome franceEverything and everywhere is frozen up – the temperature didn’t rise above -3.2 in the verandah and the maximum outside was a balmy -4.9. The baker never made it – I would have been surprised if she had – and I spent the morning insulating the floor under here. I couldn’t do much though – the cold defeated me again and so I gave up and came in to watch the three remaining westerns from that batch I bought in Brussels.

The Lawless Frontier, starring John Wayne, is easily and without a doubt the worst film I have ever seen. Of course, genre, script and all that kind of thing are subjective and I would never judge a film on my particular taste, but in this film the script was appalling, the over-acting was terrible, it was packed with non-sequitors and for some reason that only the editors will know, 2 minutes of action appear to have been cut gratuitously from the film so that you have a girl being chased by two bandits cut immediately to the two bandits lying on the floor and telling their boss “the man who intercepted us took her that way“.

Dreadful.

Mind you, scientists today make such a fuss of their new techniques, including the monstrous scenario of human-animal embryoes. I don’t know what the fuss is all about. These experiments have been going on for years and the make-up of the OUSA Executive Committee will show you what happens when it all goes wrong. But there were indeed some early success stories, as this film will bear witness. What other reason is there for the appearance of a character played by an actor called “Buffalo Bill”?

The second film in this trilogy is Riders of the Whistling Pines, starring Gene Autry, the … errr … “Singing Chronologically-challenged Cattleperson”. Now I’m not sure why he’s cast as “the Singing Cowboy” as there isn’t one cow in the entire film, and why these men are described as “Riders …” when they spend more time in aeroplanes than on horseback I just do not know.

But this is a fascinating film because of the plot. It’s from the late 1940s and there’s a plague affecting a forest of pines in the Rockies and which needs to be eradicated. Now the goodies (including Autry) in this film want to spray everywhere and everything with DDT whereas the baddies go around spreading scandalous and spurious rumours about the damage that this will do to the rivers and the wildlife. Of course, Autry and the pro-DDT-ers win the day.

But can you imagine it? Can you really credit a storyline such as this given what we know today about DDT?

The third film is the legendary Howard Hughes film The Outlaw. As well as his aviation and technological interests Hughes also “dabbled” in Hollywood and The Outlaw was a film that he directed and produced. You could be forgiven for thinking that bearing in mind his immense wealth Hughes on Hollywood might be expected to have been just some kind of vanity gimmick or publicity stunt but believe me, there are many many worse directors and producers around than Hughes, who is much better than he might have been expected to be.

The film is in effect the story of the outlaw Billy the Chronologically-challenged Goat and was the breakthrough film for Jane Russell. Hollywood is of course well-known for its aspiring young actresses and the relationship that they might or might not have with directors and producers in order to capture a leading role is the subject of much speculation. If these rumours are true, then it might explain Hughes’ interest in Hollywood and his interest in Russell. She is quite attractive and is also a much better actress than she might otherwise have been. She is possessed of a couple of points well-worth attention, for which Hughes turned his technical abilities into inventing a cantilever brassiere in order to give them much more prominence.

In fact, it was Russell’s … err … physical attributes that led to the cult status of this film. In one scene she leans over the dying Billy the Chronologically-challenged Goat and the camera has a zoom shot all the way down her top to her navel. In 1941 this was far too much for the American censor who demanded that the scene be cut. Hughes refused and a stand-off took place that lasted for several years. After World War II attitudes were much more relaxed and the film was finally granted a release but black-and-white was obsolete and the film was generally out of date (the soundtrack is depressingly old-fashioned even for 1941) so it never received the prominence that its hype had promised. It is also spoiled, irreparably so, by the dreadful acting of Thomas Mitchell, who plays Pat Garrett. Mind you, there us a story that when the film was shown to an audience of airmen, the scene where Russell leans over the dying Billy the Chronologically-challenged Goat was met with a cry of “Bombs Away” from one of the airmen.

That scene is of course in the film but the other famous scene where Billy and Doc Holliday confront each other over Billy’s theft of Doc’s girl and Doc’s theft of Billy’s horse, to which Billy replies “well, Tit for Tat” – that doesn’t seem to have made it onto the DVD.

I had a quick tea again tonight as I wasn’t interested in staying downstairs long. It’s minus 4 in the verandah, minus 5.8 outside and on my ad-hoc snow table there’s a depth of 18mm. And it’s still snowing. The sunny days that we were promised in the long-range weather forecast – they’ve gone too.