Tuesday October 8th 2013 – HAPPY SILVER WEDDING ANNIVERSARY.

Yes, it’s my silver wedding anniversary today – 25 years of marriage. And the fact that I haven’t seen my wife since 1994 doesn’t change a thing – it’s still the silver wedding anniversary and so happy anniversary to me, and to you too. And this of course does remind me – not so long ago someone, who really wasn’t au fait with the situation really did ask me if I talked to Nerina while I was making love. My reply was that it all depended upon whether or not I could reach the telephone.

So how did I celebrate it, you may well ask. Not like Alan Shearer who, all those years ago, celebrated winning the Cup Final by going home and creosoting the shed, I woke up at 02:00 exactly after crashing out last night. 02:00 in Greece is exactly the same time as 00:00 in the UK and that must be the purest of pure coincidences.

Being unable to go back to sleep, I did some work on the computer, worked on one of the Rock Music programmes that I do for Radio Anglais, and then emptied all of my bags and suitcases and weeded out the tubbish. And found, to my dismay, that while I had brought back my winter coat as well as my winter fleece, having resolved to leave one of them behind in Montreal, I’ve also somehow managed to leave behind all of my clothes. All I have is what I’m wearing plus the clothes that I was wearing up until I had my shower at Crown Point the other evening. That called for a clothes-washing session under the shower at 05:00, which wouldn’t have been so bad had I remembered to bring back the washing soap.

I’ve also managed to forget to bring back all of the SD cards for the computer, which is annoying to say the least. I can’t even think where they might be because I did sort through the boxes before I put them away in my storage unit, and they didn’t come to light there. So I dunno.

sunrise agkistri Saronic Gulf, upon which Piraeus is situated greeceTrixi had us all outside to watch the sunrise over Aegina and then we started the yoga. Trixi teaches Dru Yoga, not that I know anything about it, but I was surprised that some of the relaxation and de-stressing techniques that I have been using for years are mirrored in Yoga (which is probably why they work) and so I wasn’t actually far behind the rest of the group.

That took us up to 09:00 and breakfast, and then following a relaxation, we had our singing sessions from 11:30 until 13:00. I don’t care what anyone else says – I still sing like a vache espagnole and I always will, but it’s why I’m here and it’s why I’ve paid for this course so I ought to have my money’s worth.

church agkistri Saronic Gulf, upon which Piraeus is situated greeceWhile everyone else was at lunch I went for a walk around the little town to look at the scenery and the buildings. I found a bakery and bought a small loaf, and also a tomato from over the road in the greengrocer’s. Sitting on the beach and eating the bread and tomato was a good way to enjoy the sun.

Back at our lodgings everyone else was in the water swimming but I’m having to forego that pleasure. The sea bed at the shore shore is full of sea urchins this time of year and with not having any footwear for the water, it would be extremely painful to step on an urchin.

Another Yoga session was from 17:30 until 19:00, followed by dinner. And I’m being looked after really well by the chef (also called Eric). Trixi and I and one or two others sat up until all hours in the evening chatting about old times. After all, I first met Trixi … errrr … 48 years ago when she had this gorgeous long hair way down past her waist and until a chance meeting last November, I hadn’t seen her since 1972.

Monday 7th October 2013 – IT’S A LITTLE-KNOWN FACT …

… that travelling as a passenger on a Greek bus is a guaranteed cure for constipation. I noticed last night that the driver was … errr … somewhat relaxed in his attitude to the road, other vehicles, road signals (including traffic lights) and the speed limit as we went to the Holiday Inn, but that was absolutely nothing compared to the driver of the X96 that took me to Piraeus this morning.

The day started as it meant to go on, with the alarm bell ringing just as I was about to fall asleep. But another quick shower brought me round and then I ate a hearty breakfast, seeing as I wasn’t sure about when I might next be in front of some food.

Despite the early start, it took until about 09:30 for the shuttle bus to start and that took me back to the airport where I found an X96 already there and waiting.

express bus X96 athens airport piraeus harbour greeceOnce we were all on board and the driver had checked our tickets, off we … errr … hurtled. It seems that €5:00 is the standard fare on the express buses which, for the 75 minutes to Piraeus, is an absolute bargain.

I couldn’t tell you which route that we took though, because I had my eyes closed for most of the way. I’ve never seen anything quite like this. A big articulated single decker, driving flat-out, overtaking almost everything in sight, passing stop signs and red traffic lights as though they weren’t there. Like I said earlier, a guaranteed cure for constipation. Forget your white-knuckle rides on the funfair – pay your €5:00 and come for 75 minutes on this bus.

However, in spite of the driver’s best efforts, I arrived at the docks just in time to see the 11:00 ferry to Agkistri disappearing out of the harbour. Next boat at 12:55. Still, it gave me a good chance to fall into major dispute with the junk sellers who infest Piraeus harbour. One fellow in particular felt the full force of my ire and even if he didn’t understand the language, he cannot have failed to understand the message.

posiedon hellas ferry hellenic seaways piraeus harbour greeceIt also gave me a good opportunity to have a nosey around the harbour. In Europe there’s an age limit of 25 years on ferried plying for hire, but Greece (in view of the incredible number of routes in operation) has negotiated an exception. Consequently there are all kinds of time-expired ferries laid off other routes and which have been bought by Greek operators and I know for a fact that many of the old ferries from the English Channel in the heyday of the routes in the early 1990s are out here. I’ll have to have a look at the names of some of the ferries that were parked up here and trace them back to see where they came from.

The hydrofoil Flying Dolphin XVII came in eventually and once we were all stowed aboard, off we shot out of the harbour, only to break down with a bang and a clatter (my dreadful luck was doing it again). But that was eventually fixed and off we shot again, smelling of diesel fumes and exhaust gases.

abandoned ships Saronic Gulf, upon which Piraeus is situated greeceOne thing for which the Saronic Gulf, upon which Piraeus is situated is well-known is its collection of ships. It’s where old merchant ships no longer capable of operating under modern maritime regulations are laid up until the various breaking yards in Turkey can take them in.

I’m not pretending that all of these ships in this photo are laid up – in fact you can see quite clearly that one or two have steam up – but the Bay is littered with stacks of ships just like this and in the absence of the possibility of a trip to beaches in India, this is the place to be for any lover of maritime transport such as Yours Truly.

aegina island Saronic Gulf, upon which Piraeus is situated greeceThe ferry made a brief stop at the island of Aegina, which is pretty enough, and then we were back at sea and going on to Agkistri

One thing about the Flying Dolphin that I can’t understand though is that while there’s a small bar on board, it was all closed up. Nowhere to buy a coffee or anything. As I have said on numerous occasions in the past, it’s not simply the question of lack of refreshment, it’s also a total waste of a busines opportunity. A captive audience on a ferry for 55 minutes and no means of enticing them to spend their hard-earned cash.

island agkistri Saronic Gulf, upon which Piraeus is situated greeceI was met at Agkistri by a driver from the place where we are staying. He came in the company car, the oldest Fiat Panda to be still in existence and a worthy successor to the original 2CV of the late 1940s (and built for the same reasons too). Now I’m installed in my little room which, although tiny, has all mod cons as well as a balcony overlooking the sea, and I can’t think of any way that I could be more happy and more comfortable than this.

After all of my exertions of the last few days, I crashed out right after dinner and that was that.

Sunday 6th October 2013 – WE HAVEN’T FINISHED WITH THE NONSENSE YET EITHER.

I arrived at Paris Charles de Gaulle airport way behind schedule, as you might expect, just in time to see the 13:25 plane to Athens disappearing over the horizon. This was … errr … something of a disappointment, especially as the next plane to Greece was not until 18:30.

Consequently, I had several hours to fill and, believe it or not, in the airport concourse there is little (if anything) available in the way of food that I can eat – in fact, food that anyone can eat. However, this was an eventuality for which I was not unprepared, and the rather large bag of ginger biscuits ($1:00 courtesy of a USA Dollar Store) filled what was rapidly becoming a large hole.

But on my perambulations around the airport, I fell in with a French border policeman and it transpires that he lives just about half an hour from Pooh Corner, in St Bonnet as it happens. We had quite a lengthy chat about the Combrailles and the surrounding area, and we parted the best of friends. It’s a shame that other border police and security guards can’t be as friendly as this guy. Travelling would be a pleasure with people like him to deal with.

Not so the staff at Air France. It seems that while they had managed to fix me up with a place on the flight, nothing had been said to anyone about my baggage. Consequently I was menaced with a €170 excess baggage charge. This likewise led to some discussion, not as heated as anything else on this nightmare journey – not the least reason of which was the fact that I needed some people to be on my side and do things for me – not like in the other situations in Montreal where I was well and truly in the chair. Anyway, to cut a long story short … "hooray" – ed … we eventually settled on a fee of €30:00 – still €30:00 too much but that was the best that I could do.

Eventually though, we were called up to the departure lounge – to find that our plane wasn’t there. “Flight number (whatever it was) to Athens is delayed, due to the late arrival of a connection from Washington DC”. They didn’t do that for me, of course, and that is one of the reasons why travelling with bucket-shop carriers is a hazardous occupation.

air france airbus 321 paris charles de gaulle france athens greeceAnother Airbus of course, but Air France, and so a world of difference, even if (surprisingly) there was no in-flight entertainment at all. A vegan meal too, for which I am grateful.

But the fun was only just beginning.

Landing eventually at Athens I started to look for the Holiday Inn where they had arranged for me to stay and which I’m told was at the airport. With no sign of life I approached a helpful airport guy.
“The Holiday Inn? It’s about 10 kms from here”
“Really? So how do I get there?”
“There are shuttle buses that run every 30 minutes from outside the airport” and he showed me where to wait.

45 minutes later, I thought that this was strange, but then again, it is Greece. So the helpful airport guy found me the number and I rang it
“Do I have to ring you to tell you that I’m here so that you can come to pick me up?”
“The shuttle stops running at 22:00 (it was not 00:30)”
“So how do I get to you?”
“You take a taxi”
“But I haven’t got the kind of cash that permits me to take a taxi”
“Well the express bus X93 passes our doorstep if you can persuade the driver to drop you off”.

Luckily there was an X93 at the bus stop and in his bad English and my even worse Greek, we arranged that he would indeed drop me there. But I needed to buy a ticket from the kiosk across the road. Off I duly trotted, paid the €5:00 and turned round just in time to see the X93 disappearing over the horizon.

Anyway, after a while an X95, also signposted to Athens, appeared and it seems that he took more-or-less the same route – at least, passing by the Holiday Inn. And he agreed to drop me there, which he duly did, much to my gratitude.

01:30 now. “Do you know that I had waited nearly an hour for your shuttle bus at the airport?” I said to the guy at reception at the hotel. And like anyone there really cared in the slightest. And the coffee tray in the room was empty and the lights didn’t work properly (but that was a switch issue, although they might have explained to me how to make them work).

There was an overnight petrol station across the road and they fixed me up with some orange juice and biscuits, and then I made the dreadful mistake of having a long and refreshing hot shower to relax me after my efforts. Now of course, it’s 04:00 and I can’t sleep and I’m being called at 06:30.

Somehow it’s just not been my day.

Saturday 5th October 2013 – I’M CLEARLY OUT OF PRACTICE …

… of sleeping on Motorway Service Areas because this was one of the worst nights sleeps that I’ve had. The constant noise kept me awake for most of the night and I finally gave up the attempt at about 06:30 and went nd fetched a coffee.

Off to my little storage area at Jarry to unload the Dodge, and I’m afraid that there, I binned the bed. As you know, because I’ve said before, the constant screwing and unscrewing has weakened the screw holes so that it no longer holds together and I’m in danger of dropping through it, and also because I bought a new and “proper” folding camp bed and mattress which is slightly narrower and slightly shorter, but a good couple of inches higher, and so has all kinds of better potential.

And woe is me. For if you remember, I found a superb car wash and valet service in Montreal in 2012 and I’m badgered if I can remember where it was. And the one that I found instead is, well, unsatisfactory and to such an extent that I took the car back to Jarry and gave it another go myself, and then vacuumed it out. Disappointing, you might say.

Words were said this evening too.

When I took the Dodge back to the Car Hire place, the attendant said, in a loud accusatory voice “you’ve damaged this car!”. Consequently he and I had a “frank exchange of views” which continued inside the Hire Company offices where I told them precisely what I thought about their staff abusing my good nature in doing them a favour by taking out a damaged car.

My bad humour persisted inside the airport terminal at what is laughingly called the “security check” when a security guard said to me “take your boots off”. When I told him to say “please” he repeated his demand. Consequently I told him exactly what I thought of his pig-ignorant attitude and when the chief of security came out with a couple of minions to find out what the commotion was, I told him about it too and I made sure that the other 500 or so passengers at the departure gate and the rest of the staff there knew about it too. I’m totally fed up of this aggressive, impolite and pig-ignorant attitude of people at these terminals and it’s high time that other passengers responded in kind as well. I ought to be leading a revolt against this kind of arrogant attitude – after all, my friends (yes, I do have more than one) tell me that I’m quite revolting.

c-gcts airbus a330 air transat airport peirre trudeau dorval montrealThis is our aeroplane that brought me back to Europe, and I’m not quite sure how because in my humble … "humble?" – ed … opinion a more derelict and decrepit reilc never took to the air before.

It’s an Airbus A330 C-GCTS and if you want my opinion, it was the aircraft rejected by Nungesser and Coli in favour of “The White Bird” for their unsuccessful Trans-Atlantic attempt from east to west in 1927. The seats were vinyl, rather like an old Ford Cortina mk III from the early 1970s and the seat-back of the seat in front of me was held on by a rather worn velcro. Added to that, I spent almost 7 hours on the most uncomfortable seat upon which I have ever sat and the most comfortable part of the journet was the five minutes or so that I spent on the elsan. Someone did make the suggestion that I had forgotten to move Charles Lindbergh’s sandwiches off the seat, but I was too busy watching the in-flight entertainment – three big central screens (no individual screens at all) showing films and contemporary news features (and wasn’t that a tragedy about the Titanic?). Well it was either that or listen to the music, featuring Glen Miller and his band, live, on their way to entertain the troops in Normandy.

Having said all of that however, Air Transat did remember my vegan meal and so there was a positive side to the journey. But hopefully, there won’t be any further issues impinging upon any subsequent voyage, and so I won’t have to put up with this kind of nonsense in the future. It’s bad enough having to deal with the security guards.

Friday 4th October 2013 – HERE AS PROMISED …

lake champlain bridge new york vermont usa… is a photo of the view from my “bedroom” window from last night. It is of course the new Champlain Bridge across the lake of that name between New York and Vermont, and it’s pretty spectacular too, especially when I remember that I have a tripod in the Dodge and so I can use a long exposure.

I can’t think of many better sights to see as I settle down for the night, apart from the lighthouse from the beginning of May 2012, but that of course was something special.

Last night though, there was no-one on duty at the camp site, which was not unexpected, and neither was the note “if there’s no-one on duty when you arrive, find a vacant space and check in at 08:00”. What was however unexpected was that when I got fed up of waiting and hit the road, it was 09:44 and there was still no-one about.

I also had an encounter with yet another dissident today. The USA seems to be crawling with them but, as I have said before, they only seem comfortable expressing their dissent with foreigners such as Yours Truly. It really is just like the old Soviet Union back in the USA just now. I was not joking.

derelict restored railway locomotive ALCO RS18 Lake Champlain Moriah Railroad Port Henry New York USAI don’t travel far, though. Just to Port Henry where I encounter what is rather laughingly called a “preserved locomotive”. Port Henry was formerly a steel town, due to the fact that there was an iron ore mine in the interior, and between the port and the mine ran a railway line, the Lake Champlain and Moriah Railroad. It all closed down in the 70s but some of the rolling stock has been “preserved” and a redundant ALCO RS18 was donatrd by the Canadian Pacific.

Why I’m treating the “restoration” with total derision is because it consisted simply if walloping a few buckets of thick black paint all over everywhere just like the “Big Boy” in Cheyenne, Wyoming, and the result is just the same. Red streaks of rust everywhere where the paint has been worn away, and the rust trailing down all over the rest of the equipment giving it all an air of total dereliction, which is exactly what it is.

lake champlain ferry new york vermont usaHere’s no surprise. Yours truly is on a ferry. It’s always a bad idea for me to go near a ferry, because every time I see one it makes me cross. This is one of the ones across Lake Champlain between New York State and Vermont that was not done away with when the Champlain Bridge was opened and you may well be surprised to learn that after more than 5 weeks on the North American continent, this is the first ferry that I have taken.

Not like me at all, you might think, but then I have had many preoccupations this year and have not been my own master as far as things like that go.

rouse's point new york usaThe Vermont side of Lake Champlain brought me over a series of bridges back into New York and a small one-horse town called Rouse’s Point.

Students of Civil War might well be forgiven that Rouse’s Point was the largest town in the whole of the Union States, given the number of enlistments from there in the latter stages of the Civil War. The statistics are certainly impressive. However, that is only a small part of a very long story. Rouse’s Point is the town closest to the Canadian Border for Quebeckers, and in the latter stages of the war, the Union paid quite a substantial bounty to civilians who joined up to bolster the army for Grant’s Overland Campaign in Virginia in 1864 and 1865.

Thousands joined up from Rouse’s Point but probably not even one-tenth were actually from the town. All of the rest were Canadians from Québec who discreetly crossed the border into the town, signed up, did their training, received their bounty, and then promptly deserted. And there is considerable evidence to suggest that the same person enlisted in three or even more
regiments in order to receive three or more bounties. The enrolment books of many a New York, Vermont and Maine regiment have an entry “Rouse’s Point Bounty Jumper” against a name.

st lawrence ferry sorel st ignace quebec canadaFrom Rouse’s Point it’s a mere cockstride back into Canada and along the Richelieu Valley to Sorel on the St Lawrence. And here the second ferry of the day (and second of the holiday) takes me across the river to the north bank and the town of St Ignace.

Onto the Highway at the back of the town and off to the Service Area near Lavaltrie. I spent my first night “on the road” here, and it’s fitting that i’ll be spending my last night here, because it really is my last night in North America for 2013 and that thought fills me with total sadness.

Thursday 3rd October 2013 – STRAWBERRY MOOSE …

strawberry moose mount defiance fort ticonderoga lake champlain new york usamans … "persons!" – ed … a British 12-pounder gun that was dragged to the top of Mount Defiance by a troop of General Burgoyne’s artillery with the aim … "ohh, well done!" – ed … of threatening the American rebels in the fort way below on the promontory on Lake Champlain.

It just goes to show you the power that modern artillery posed back in the early modern era because I doubt very much whether any cannon in the British artillery train, and certainly not a 12-pounder, would have had the effective (or even the absolute) range to do anything like any serious damage to the fort.

Don’t forget that these forts are not like early medieval castles, built of stone walls, where a few 14th- and 15th Century cannon balls could send them crashing down. These fortresses might be faced outside and inside with stone (or even wood) but in between the facings was often as much as 24 feet of earth or sand and any cannon ball, explosive or otherwise, would be merely smothered. At Fort William Henry they were firing point-blank (like 150 yards) with all the artillery that Moncalm had and the only reason that the fort’s north-western bastion collapsed was because a lit howitzer shell from outside landed in an opened box of fused shells on the parapet. And even that wasn’t enough to breach the walls – it simply showed Munro that the writing was on the walls.

artillery crew strawberry moose mount defiance fort ticonderoga lake champlain new york usaOf course Strawberry Moose was not alone up here. He recruited a very keen and willing artillery crew from amongst the local residents out for an early morning hike, and they were only too ready to help him in his exploits with his weapon.

With one volunteer being worth ten men, it was certainly enough to put the wind up the American rebels down in the fort below and they soon fled across the lake into Vermont. But seriously, I cannot imagine whatever was going through the mind of the commander of the fort that he didn’t put a detachment of his men up here to stop the British from taking the position and threatening the fort. Overconfidence?

rogers rock new york state campground lake george USAI did promise you all yesterday that I would show you a photo of my camp site from last night, and you won’t be disappointed, because I wasn’t. This is Rogers Rock campsite on the very northern edge of Lake George and it is one of the most spectacular places in which I’ve slept (strangely enough, of my “top 10”, every one of them is in North America).

As for Rogers, he was someone who became totally disillusioned with the British tactics of marching in fours, dressed in bright red uniforms, through the forests around here. He recruited a band of volunteers, called them “Rogers’ Rangers”, and dressed them in greens and browns. Then he sent them crawling through the forest to wreak havoc and destruction amongst the French military, their native Algonquin allies, and the Frech settlers who had settled around the head of Lake George in defiance of the treaty of Utrecht of 1713.

From there I drove on across the pass and the old portage to Crown Point, where Lake Champlain narrows to about half a mile. Crown Point actually faces north rather than south and so once the French had abandoned Fort Carillon (as Fort Ticonderoga was known) in order to defend Montreal after the fall of Quebec and the loss of Montcalm’s army in 1759, the British dashed here to where the French formerly had a trading post (Fort St Frederic) to take possession.

crown point fort amherst lake champlain new york usaHere, they started to build what would have been the largest fortress in the whole of North America and in a rush that would have put modern builders to shame, they were well on the way to completing it when the dramatic collapse of French military resistance in North America in 1760 meant that the fort was no longer necessary. After all, who could have foreseen the American Revolution?

The fort was built much more substantially than this, but a chimney fire in one of the barracks went out of control and set alight the armoury, wherein was stored most of the British munitions, including a couple of tons of gunpowder. The subsequent explosion atomised the armoury and set everything else alight, including the timber cross-bracing within the earthen walls and so there was a subterranean fire that went on for weeks until everything was consumed.

champlain bridge lake champlain new york vermont usaThere’s a bridge here too – the Champlain Bridge, that crosses the lake into Vermont (I was in Vermont when I took this photo). Pretty though this bridge might be, it’s not a patch on the one that used to be here. That was a graceful steel lattice-girder bridge that was totally innovative in the 1920s when it as built, but the techniques used went on to be standard bridge-building practice until the advent of (yeeuucchhh) concrete bridges.

Accordingly it was classed as a National Monument in 2009 and a team of experts was sent to examine the bridge and make an inventory. What they found so horrified them that the bridge was immediately closed and demolished, for it seems that in the confusion about who actually owned the bridge, there had never been an inspection or even five minutes of maintenance of the structure since the day that it was built.

So tomorrow, I’ll show you this evening’s camp site and you can see what you think of that.

Wednesday 2nd October 2013 – I WAS ON THE ROAD EARLY THIS MORNING

So much so that if it wouldn’t have given me a guilty conscience I would have avoided paying the camp site fees. There was no-one around when i arrived, and no-one around when I was about to leave either. However, earlier in the morning, the patrolling ranger hand come by to chat to me because I wasn’t on his list, and he reminded me to pay at the gate “but you look like the honest sort anyway” – which just goes to show that they don’t know me very well around here.

fish road rainbow bay lake george new york usaI’ve been following Lake George northwards towards the head of the lake. Lake George is a cleft in the earth between two rather large solid lumps of limestone and this is another one of those places that quailfies for the Most Beautiful Places on Earth and as you can see.

Some of the views are stunning, specially when you consider that we are now in autumn and the leaves are turning. It’s definitely the best time to be here

boltons landing lake george new york usaI wouldn’t be here in the high summer though. It’s terribly trendy and frightfully twee, with the worst kind of boutiques all over the place, including the “Indian tepee” where you can buy genuine First-Nation artefacts, all dutifully stamped ‘made in China”.

That of course does remind me of the Indian who won first prize at the Boston Tea Party all those years ago. He was found next morning drowned in his tepee.

I did however meet a guy who, like me, lives with nothing but his solar panels and wind turbines, and runs his truck (an ancient Ford F250) on biodiesel. We had an extremely lengthy chat about all kinds of things, but going back to this summer thing, he was telling me that in the summer the population here is over 30,000 – but in winter they struggle to make 2,000.

silver bay YMCA camp lake george new york usaFurther along the Lake is a place called Silver Bay, and my first opinion was that it was one of those places that had “Strength Through Joy” that you found in Germany in the 1930s, churning out little Master Race clones, written all over it.

It turns out that I wasn’t all that far out either because further enquiry revealed that it is in fact a YMCA summer camp. Although I could do with getting myself clean and having a good meal, I didn’t want to hang out with all the boys and so I resolved to no hang around too long. But they get their money’s worth from a place like this.

As an aside, I should mention of course that out of season when there are no paying customers, the YMCA, so I was told, does open its doors to deprived children from the inner cities to give them a break, give them an experience of the countryside, and teach them leadership skills.

waterfront lot for sale lake george new york usaI made a few stops off along the route, for a variety of reasons, one of which was to look at this. It’s a tiny little waterfront lot with enough room to just about park a car and trailer, a storage shed, a boat ramp and a small dock.

The view from here is totally stunning as you can see, and furthermore, it’s for sale. I’ve determined to find out the price of the lot and if you don’t hear from me for a while, it’s because I’ll be lying down in a darkened room recovering.

fort ticonderoga lake champlain new york usaBut really why I’m here of course is to visit Fort Ticonderoga, or Fort Carillon as it was known when it was in French hands (even though in “The Last of the Mohicans” they insisted on calling it Fort Ticonderoga throughout). It’s the scene of several abject British military disasters and when you read this litany of errors it really does make you wonder how come the British managed to rule a quarter of the globe.

Failing to sweep away a defensive line from behind an earthen bank when you have a numerical superiority of over 4 to 1 and so abandoning a battle, even though your casualties are no more excessive than the defenders’. Or else a sentry fleeing from a charge of half a dozen enemy scouts, dashing into the fort to seek safety, and forgetting to close the gate behind him. I can go on and on … "not with a bayonet through your neck you can’t" – ed .

lake champlain lake george fort ticonderoga new york vermont usaThe purpose of Fort Ticonderoga was to control the entry from Montreal down into the Hudson Valley to New York (or, more precisely, the reverse of that route). That’s Lake Champlain right there ahead of us in this photo taken with the sun streaming into the lens of the camera (sorry about that), and that on the right is the river that goes into the interior where there are several portages and then you reach Lake George. All the river traffic that travelled between New York and Montreal – freight as well as British soldiers on the way to attack Montreal – had to come out of that little bay on the right.

Of course, when Fort Ticonderoga was finally captured by British (it wasn’t, by the way, despite what British history books might say – the French abandoned it round about the time that Québec fell to the British under General Wolfe) it served no useful purpose and so a further fort – Crown Point – was commenced a few miles further north and this time, facing northwards to watch out for the French advancing from the North to try to retake their possessions around here.

However, the rather dramatic collapse of the French in Upper Canada in 1759-60 rendered that fort unnecessary so some rather half-built ruins are all that remain. They are said to be in a spectacular setting and so that’s where I’m off to tomorrow.

But tomorrow morning I’ll show you all a photo of the view from my “bedroom” window here at Ticonderoga.

Tuesday 1st October 2013 – I’VE BEEN TRAVELLING BACKWARDS TODAY

And that might explain this awfully stiff neck that I have – unless I didn’t swallow the Viagra quickly enough last night.

18th cntury cannon firing real round fort william henry new yorkFirst stop was back to Fort William Henry to watch an artillery demonstration – a real period cannon firing a real cannon ball. Certainly impressive, definitely noisy, and quite successful. Much more successful than Colonel Munro’s artillery that were badly constructed and kep blowing up – there’s a lovely piece of a 32-pound cannon, that they found well-embedded in the soil, on display here at the fort.

And I learnt something new today too, and that was why no cannon was ever raised more than 5° from the horizontal even though that meant a huge loss of range. The answer was that in general it meant very little in loss of range but much more accuracy, which is a strange thing to say. With a high elevation, you need pinpoint accuracy because when the ball lands, it buries itself in the soil. With a low elevation, it skimmed across the surface like a flat stone across the lake, and this could increase the range and also increase the likelihood of hitting something.

From here I went off to look for Fort Edward, the fort that controlled the frontier around here and to which the survivors of Fort William Henry were fleeing when they were butchered by the Iroquois. I drove past it yesterday, simply for the reason that it isn’t signposted at all from the main road, being on private land. The guy here at Fort William Henry gave me a few pointers and off I went.

fort edward new york usa
And here is the site, in someone’s back garden, although the fort was very much bigger than this of course. It was totally destroyed by the Americans during the Revolutionary War to stop the British from fortifying it, and yet when some of these house-owners were digging down underneath their houses to make cellars, they were churning out all kinds of artefacts, many of which are in a little museum in the town (although, of course, many were simply sold on eBay).

There have been a few archaeological digs and searches on a few of the properties and all kinds of things have been unearthed, all of which is quite exciting. Not as exciting as what was to happen next, though, for we are about to have another Red Bay or Albion experience.

timbers recovered from river hudson fort edward new york
Expressing quite an interest in this kind of thing and, I suppose, being quite knowledgeable, I was engaged in quite a chat with the local museum curator, and after a while he beckoned me into the back room. “Good job I’m wearing my chastity belt” I mused.

However, I don’t know if I’ve mentioned it but I’ve been encountering a lot of dredging along the Hudson just now, and the dredgers were here a short while ago and they encountered something solid just off the banks of the river where the fort was. It turned out that they had hooked a couple of squared-off timbers that have in all probability been part of the fort and were thrown into the river by the retreating Americans. The dark peaty silt on the bottom of the river has preserved them.

Anyway, I’m apparently the first layman to lay my hands upon them, which is something of an honour, I suppose.

thrilling incident of Jane McCrea Fort Edward New York
One of the things that we discuss every now and again is the dramatic change in language over a period of time, and here’s a classic example of this. This describes “one of the most thrilling events in the annals of the American Revolution”, and so today you would be gripping the edges of your seats in eager anticipation.

But back using the contemporary language of the end of the 18th Century your heart would be fluttering as you read the tragic story of young Jane McCrea. She was 17 (according to one account, and as old as 24 in another, and varying ages in between according to more accounts) and she was travelling in the country to visit her fiancé (and so 17 would be a good bet if you ask me) when she was seized by two native Americans working as scouts for the British soldiers.

These Native Americans couldn’t decide amongst themselves which one had captured her first and so was entitled to … errr … do the honours, you might say, and so in an age-old tribal custon, they decided to cut her in two so that each one could have a half.

I can imagine that if such an event were to happen today, poor Jane McCrea would be less than thrilled by the outcome of events.

Fort Ann was the last place to visit today. Known as Fort Schuyler when it was a Dutch possession, there have been 5 forts here at Fort Ann although today not a single vestige remains of any of them.
combined lock 16 17 Champlain Canal Fort Ann New YorkIt is however a strategic place on the route of the Champlain Canal, because, rarely, all three routes of the canal pass within 100 yards of each other here. The first route, known in the vernacular as “Clinton’s Ditch” … "Ditch with a “D” – we aren’t talking about Monica Lewinski" – ed … was modernised and rerouted in the 1850s when new technology permitted wider boats and deeper locks, and the old canal at Fort Ann, just to the right of these locks, was converted into a dry dock for repairs.

On the 1850s canal, new technology meant that they could experiment with “combined locks”, where two locks were immediately adjacent to each other and shared a common central gate. This is combined lock 16 and 17 and the central gate is just behind where the staircase is, the recess for the first gate being seen in the immediate foreground.

From here I stopped at Walmart to do a final food shop for my journey. There I encountered a woman with a face like a wet weekend in Weymouth. “Do you know”, I said, “you look exactly how I feel”.
She burst into laughter, said “well, at least that comment made me smile” and shuffled off down another aisle. Ahh well.

Monday 30th September 2013 – THE FRENCH ARE COMING! THE FRENCH ARE COMING!

strawberry moose fort william henry lake george new yorkAnd even if it is General Montcalm and his Abenakis allies about to wreak havoc on the British soldiers and massacre their prisoners on the plain in front of the fort, there’s no need to worry because as well as Hawkeye and Chingachcook, Strawberry Moose is there ready to repel all boarders – and a few … "you said that yesterday" – ed .

Where I am is at the infamous Fort William Henry, another one of those humiliating episodes in British Military History in North America where, due to an insufficient lookout and picket, Lt-Col Munro allowed the fort to be enircled by Montcalm’s French troops and Iroquois allies and whose superior artillery (which should never have been allowed to land if the look-out had been up to much) battered the fort into submission.

Although the story of the subsequent massacre of the captive women and children was grossly exaggerated by Fenimore Cooper in The Last of the Mohicans, there was certainly a considerable slaughter here outside the fort as the Iroquois, drunk on the rum looted from the fort and having been denied any say in the peace process thus feeling cheated of their right to obtain scalps and other booty from the occupants of the fort, were determined to seek redress.

So this morning after my relaxing stay at the camp site at Schaghticoke last night, I hit the road.

soil polluted by PCBs schuylerville new yorkFirst stop was at Schuylerville, the old “Saratoga” and a pretty place it is too. But this sign isn’t so pretty. The ground is so polluted by PCBs that it’s against the law to dig in the soil – no use trying to grow potatoes and the like here, even if not a couple of hundred yards from where I’m standing there are corn fields and all kinds of things.

But tha corn is not of course intended for human consumption – it’s for animal feed (and humans will then eat the animals)and so that’s ok. But it’s frightening all the same, what’s happening to the world’s food supplies.

lock 12 old champlain canal hudson valley new yorkYesterday I showed you a photo of a lock on the Champlain Canal. Before the modernisation of the Hudson navigation, there was an “Old Champlain Canal” that was on a much smaller scale. I’ve been following that today too, and I reckoned that I would show you a photo of a lock on here. This is in fact Lock 12 and it’s a little different, isn’t it?

Still, for a canal that was built in 1832 the masonry is in surprisingly good condition although the amount of neglect of the canal and the amount of route that has been lost means that it will never be opened again, which is a shame.

A little further up the road is a town called Glen Falls and while there is nothing to see here (the falls have, like many on the Hudson, been oveebuilt with barrages for hydro-electric power) it has its own excitement. On Lap Three of the circuit of trying to find my way out of the town , I noticed a place called “Mailing Made Easy” – a kind-of boutique which guarantees to find the cheapest method of mailing parcels. Too good an opportunity to miss and so I took the Roland amp that I had bought. They told me the price and, picking myself up off the floor, I packed it because $35:02 was too good a price to miss out on.

And it’s not going on a snail’s back either – delivery 2/3 weeks they say, which may well be before I get home and certainly before I get back from my next stint in Brussels. And so, Liz and Terry, if you read this before I get in touch with you, I’m sorry that I didn’t ask you if you will take in a parcel for me, but I had to make an on-the-spot executive decision, and with it being an executive decision, if it is the wrong decision, then you can execute me when I return home.

Sunday 29th September 2013 – THE BRITISH ARE COMING! THE BRITISH ARE COMING!

strawberry Moose Roy the Ranger neilson's farm saratoga battlefield new york USANo reason to be alarmed, though. Strawberry Moose and his faithfful artillery crew, namely Roy the Ranger, have manned … "personned" – ed … the guns and are ready to repel all boarders – and a few day pupils too by the sound of things.

I’m deep in the Hudson Valley near a town called Schuylerville and while that name might mean nothing to most people, it used to be called Saratoga and that might mean a whole lot more because the battle here, in October 1777, put the writing on the wall for the British occupation of what is now the United States of America.

artillery hudson river saratoga battlefield new york USAFor four months of the year the St Lawrence is frozen over and the only way to send supplies to Montreal and Lower Canada is up the Hudson Valley, over the portages around the various lakes and then down the River Richelieu to Montreal.

At Saratoga there’s a bluff overlooking the Hudson River and whoever controls this bluff controls all of the upper Hudson Valley – a fact perfectly well realised by the rebels, and only belatedly by the Imperial power who had failed to stock up with supplies. The rebels made it here first and as winter started to draw on, the Imperial forces realised that they needed to move them off the bluff in order to restock themselves for the winter.

So on October 7th, 1777, the Imperial forces attacked and after a fierce fight, were pushed backwards off the bluff and right into the arms of rebel reinforcements, and that was that. This was the first nail in the coffin of Imerial domination of the 13 colonies.

So that was how I spent my afternoon, and a beautiful afternoon it was too and no mistake. So much so that I ran completely out of time. luckily though, although the visit cost me all of $5:00, the Tourist Information service gave me a campsite list and so I was able to find the campsite that I missed in the dark last night – must remember to finish earlier in the daytime.

Regular readers of this rubbish will recall my preoccupation with roundabouts in North America. When I fist started travelling here, finding a roundabout was a major achievement. Nowadays, though, it’s the “in thing” for towns to have roundabouts, almost a status symbol, for here at Malta on Highway 9, they have two in quick succession.

road accident malta highway 9 roundabout truck overturnHowever, it’s all very well having roundabouts here, but it’s another thing completely about drivers knowing how to use them, as this truck driver has discovered, and he has come to a sticky end as he tries to turn off Highway 9 to go up to Interstate 89 and Montreal.

On a neagtive camber like this with a high centre of gravity like that, a dead stop at the “Give Way” sign and a slow and careful drive around would have been much more appropriate than showing off the handling capabilities of his rig. At least the cab hasn’t gone over, so he’s not hurt, except in the pride department, and also in the wallet I bet, because there were several of New York’s finest in attendance.

Why I was down here was for the huge Home Depot that I encountered last night. There was a sale on and so I stocked up with cheap tools – not rubbish but heavily-discounted stuff including a Ryobi all-in bit collection, the type that sells for about €35 in Brico Depot but here reduced to just $6:00. I can do all sorts of things with that.

lock 4 champlain canal new york usaMy route is going to take me along the side of the Champlain Canal – the 19th Century water route between the Hudson and the St Lawrence. While much of it has been abandoned to due navigational improvements on the Hudson, there are still several locks along the route that are used.

This is lock 4 and I watched it being used by a pleasure boat, sadly the only type of traffic along here these days with commerical freight long-gone.

Ironically though, I’ve had lengthy (and I do mean lengthy) chats with 3 people today and they have all featured one thing in common – the scepticism of their Government’s foreign and militarist policies. All three of them have been as cynical as I am about all of this.

There’s an undercurrent of dissent running through the USA and people seem to be only able to express their discontent to foreigners. It really is just like the Soviet Union in the 1970s here, only that the authorities use ridicule and ostracism as a punishment instead of imprisonment. And believe me, ridicule and ostracism are far more devastating a punishment.

But yes, 50 years of fighting Communism, and now they have installed the worst aspects of it here in their own country? There’s something fishy here, and I’m not talking about the contents of Baldrick’s apple crumble.

Saturday 28th September 2013 – I’VE BEEN TO HEAVEN …

… this morning, and it was by mistake. I’d crossed over the river from Lebanon, New Hampshire, to White River, Vermont and I wanted a place to park in order to photograph the sign.

The bridge was under repair and there were queues of traffic about all over the place and so I nipped onto an industrial estate to park up, but I became somewhat distracted instead.

old cars 1932 Hudson white river vermont usaThese three vehicles here, the older of which is a 1932 Hudson, are three of about 20 or 30 vehicles from the 1930s and 40s that were lying abandoned all over the place.

I’ve no idea what they are all doing here but it’s certainly something of a tragedy to see them lying about like this – for some of them, there’s not very much left to save and for others, something needs to be done with them pretty quickly if they aren’t going to end up like the others.

It also begs the question, if these are outside, what might there be lurking around in a warehouse or industrial unit around here? If these are simply the donor cars for other projects it would be extremely interesting to blag my way in for a nosey but there was no-one around to ask. But it does bring back old times when I used to do this kind of thing in France with Nerina all those years ago.

quechee gorge vermont usaJust down the road from there is the Quechee Gorge on the Ottauquechee River.

It isn’t quite the Grand Canyonof course, but it’s the best that was on offer around here. Hordes of people from everywhere and, much to my surprise, much of what seemed to be on offer was free. Maybe the USA is “The Land of the Free” after all, after all that I have been saying. I’ll have to change the script a little.

mountain scenery vermont usaI’ve been travelling steadily south-west through the mountains and there wasn’t really very much to see because with overhanging cliffs and forests and the like there was never a clear view. But somewhere along the highway between Londonderry and Manchester there was another one of these rear-view mirror moments as I crest an enormous rise.

That’s where I’ve come from, right over there in the distance. That far ridge is probably 40 miles away and this is really the first proper glance that I’ve had of it. It was worth the wait, even if the image can’t do the view any justice.

This image is rather sad, though. It’s Troy, in New York State, my destination and where I hit the Hudson River. This is civilisation and a sign that my holiday is drawing to a close. This time next Saturday I’ll be somewhere over the Atlantic if we haven’t crashed on take-off, and I’m not looking forward to going home. I wish that I could stay here.

However I did have a stroke of luck. The Lady Who Lives In The Sat-Nav directed me into town past a huge Home Depot and so I took the opportunity to go for a wander around. I did a few errands there but I also made another Ryobi purchase.

I don’t know if you remember that a while ago I broke my Ryobi flourescent light. Here in the USA the model has been discontinued because they have now launched a similar light but powered by LEDs, and all for $19:99 too, and that’s a bargain in any currency.

And I’ll probably have to use it tonight because I’ve left it late to find somewhere to sleep.

Friday 27th September 2013 – IN WHICH OUR HERO COVERS SOME GROUND

Yes, I’m never going to get anywhere at the rate at which I’m travelling. Albany is still a good several hundred miles away from Skowhegan and The Lady Who Lives In The SatNav tells me that I can get there by 19:00 tonight if I put my foot down (ha ha).

traffic jam skowhegan norridgewock maineAnd so after a healthy three or four miles I come to a sudden halt in a traffic jam. It’s not a traffic jam really but roadworks, and this sets the pattern for the morning’s route – roadworks everywhere as they prepare the road for the winter. It’s really not my day.

But taking my time to successfully negotiate the chaos I can, in fits and starts, begin to put my foot down every so often and try to cover the road as quickly as possible taking all kinds of circumstances into account, more of which anon.

highway 8 highway 11 highway 27This area is pretty good however if you are the kind of person that suffers from multiple personality disorders though – you can each of you travel along your own road and yet stay together in the same vehicle.

But if any of you think that I am taking the … err … mickey unnecessarily, just ask yourselves why I always hire a seven-seater vehicle when I’m over here. It’s so that each one of mine can have his own seat.

practising warm up Oxford PLains Speedway MaineOther things of course contrive to get in my way, like they do. Seeing a load of campers and hearing a load of noise, I go over to investigate.

I find myself at the Oxford Plains Speedway and it seems that there’s racing, a kind-of mini-Indy500 racing series this weekend, and I have stumbled upon the practise sessions. No spectators admitted, but that’s not the kind of thing that has ever stopped me before, has it?

But only one car spun off the track and there were no multiple pile-ups so it wasn’t all that exciting. But someone watching with me did ask me why there are no successful women Indycar racers. I replied that it’s because they have to keep on stopping to ask for directions.

Winnipesaukee and Pemigewasset valley railroad new hampshireThe next thing that interrupts my passage is encountering the Winnipesaukee and Pemigewasset Valley Scenic Railroad at Meredith, and so I stop to see if there are any steam locomotives here. Apparently not – it’s not like Chama, where I was in 2002
– just old diesel shunters.

But I had an interesting encounter nevertheless, something so rare in the USA that it’s worth recording.

I went over to Ye Olde Gifte Shoppe. It was closed but there was someone behind the counter happily twiddling her thumbs – she saw me try the door and eventually came over to open it to talk to me. She wouldn’t let me in, and told me “sorry, we’re closed, I’m just here to wait for the return of a train that’s gone out with a party of tourists feom Indiana – you’ll need to come back tomorrow”

I replied “well, I won’t be here tomorrow”, so she just said “sorry” and closed the door.

Sounds just like Medicine Bow in 2002 doesn’t it?

mascona lake new hampsireSo, hours behind time, as the sun goes down, I encounter Mascona Lake here in New Hampshire.

There’s a big camp site here just on the edge and so this is where I’ll plan to stay the night. The trouble with pressing on farther in the dark is that you never know what you might (or might not) encounter, and what you might miss out on along the way.

In the meantime, to our new reader who sat down the other day and read over 200 pages from start to finish, a big hello. Why not introduce yourself?

Thursday 26th September 2013 – DITCHED!

Yes, I’ve had an unpleasant encounter today.

baxter state park maineBut that wasn’t how the day started. In fact it started off rather well for a change, with the sun suddenly and dramatically bursting through the cleft in the hills just opposite last night’s spec.

THis has to be worth the price of the admission alone and I was glad that I came this way, that’s for sure, even if subsequent events were to suggest otherwise.

Anyway after a breakfast and a good walk around, I set off, and this was where I came undone.

ditched in Baxter State Park Maine. Blasted sewage pumping wagon wouldn’t pull over (as you can see by his tyre path) “there were overhanging branches” apparently, and having to swerve to take avoiding action, I ended up in the ditch.

So after a frank exchange of views, the driver arranged for a park warden to come along, and the park warden pulled me out. These wardens have the same powers as policemen and so, after studying the tyre tracks, more will apparently be said to the truck driver.

I could now get on my way and a little further down the road here I encountered the first snows of winter 2013. High up in the mountains yes, but first snows all the same and this is looking ominous for the winter, isn’t it? Snow already!

From here I followed the road version of the Appalachian Trail which, believe me, could match anything that I encountered on The Trans Labrador Highwayand ended up in the town of Greenville.

moose head lake greenville maineGreenville is the principal town on Moose Head Lake, and if you want to know why the lake is so called, look at the photo just here. Definitely a moose head, that.

I spent a while here walking around as it was really beautiful too, and for tonight, I’m off on the road to Skowhegan to see what turns up.

Wednesday 25th September 2013 – CROSS-BORDER INCIDENTS

We’ve had one of those today.

I’ve left Rachel and Darren’s, and I’m back on the road again, heading South-West, and that of course takes me over the border into Great Satan.

Just for a change, I crossed over the border at River du Chute, a tiny little part-time border crossing up near my piece of land, where I woke up the border guard. It’s clear, in some internal staff regulation somewhere, that border patrols have to give “the works” to a certain number of border-crossers every hour, and so when you haven’t had anyone across your border for three weeks, then this is your one chance in a lifetime to take out the thumb-screws.

This interrogation included the legendary conversation –
Border Guard “Why are you crossing over here?”
Our Hero “Why not?”
BG “Where have you come from?”
OH “Centreville”
BG “So why didn’t you cross over there?”
OH “Because I wanted to cross over here”

And so we then had the full search of the Dodge. I suppose it might have been different had I answered the questions differently, but seriously, just how DO you answer questions like that and keep a straight face? It was also the first time that I have ever been asked to show my driving licence.

But if anyone wants a finer example of the fear and paranoia that is gripping the citizens of the United States, you son’t eed to look further than this. It was just like trying to cross the border into the Soviet Union back in the 1970s and I’m waiting for someone in authority in the USA to admit that maybe the Soviets had a point. 50 years of destroying Communism and then they install the worst aspects of it in their own country.

Pillarks.

mennonite horse buggy with cornBut anyway, having manipulated my way across the border and inspected the old cars and tractors, and manoeuvred my way around the Mennonite horse buggy convoys transporting the corn that they have been harvesting, I was off on the next stage of my adventures.

At Presque Ile I built up the supplies again, and I also bought a new bed. This bed is really nice and comfortable but it’s rather Heath-Robinson and extremely difficult to manoeuvre around, and impractical when there’s more than one of you in the vehicle. And as well as that, having been screwed and unscrewed so many times, the fixture is weakening. However today, at Walmart they were selling a real “Coleman” folding camp-bed with mattress, and I don’t mean one of these cheap and nasty cots but a proper lightweight bed with springing and the like, and all for $50. That’s much more convenient and easy to store.
Now what I’m doing is heading to Albany in New York because I want to go back to Montreal via Lake Champlain and the Richelieu Valley, the route of the “Last of the Mohicans”, and so I’ve drawn a straight line on the map between the two points and I’m doing my best to follow it.

triumph herald convertible left hand drive ashland maine usaThis route is producing some stunning scenery, not the least of which is this early Triumph Herald 948 convertible. When was the last time that you saw one of these in the UK, never mind anywhere else? I didn’t know that they exported these to North America, and this one is Left-Hand Drive, as you can see.

But it shows you the demise of the British motor industry when just 50 years ago they were selling all kinds of marginal products to different places all around the world, and 10 years ago they couldn’t even sell anything in their own country. I can’t recall any other manufacturing base that has collapsed so quickly and so completely.

My route has also taken me over the 100-mile dirt-track Highway 159 into the Baxter State Park and it’s here that I’m staying the night. And it was here that my good fortune ran out because not only was I nabbed for the gate fee, I was also nabbed for the campsite fees. Still, the first this year after all of the “visiting” that I had done to date. I’m not complaining too much.

Anyway, it might only be 19:30 but I am totaly whacked, so I’ll see you all again in the morning.

Tuesday 24th September 2013 – I’ve been stirring the …

… errr … brown and smelly stuff today.

And quite literally too.

At a small town called St André, about 100 kms from here is a farm owned by someone called Laforge. It’s a dairy farm but he’s expanding into all kinds of other farming activities seeing as how he has abundant supplies of … errr … fertiliser. The reason for this is that it’s all the by-product of Canada’s biggest methane generators, for which he uses the waste matter from his cows and whatever else he can find.

Darren showed me a video of the operation the other day, and then quite casually mentioned that they were customers of the feed mill. Of course, my eyes lit up and a phone call or two later, Rachel and I set off.

Impressive is not the word, that’s for sure, and we spent a very pleasant couple of hours there talking to the guy. And he knows his stuff too, even down to sourcing a supply of wood ash to mix into the inert waste matter in order to produce a balanced fertiliser.

His experiences, mostly with the hide-bound Government officials, were interesting too and full of difficulty as you might expect. But the rewards are equally as good, especially as he’s now planning other exciting activities such as using the waste heat to warm greenhouses to grow tomatoes with the fertiliser that he has. Even more interestingly, using the fertiliser to the maximum he’s just starting on his fourth hay crop whereas his neighbours have managed two this year.

That’s not the only bit of brown smelly stuff we encountered today. Zoe and I were in Woodstock today sorting out her salon and running other errands and while in Tim Horton’s Zoe was surfing the local small ads. “Chevy Silverado pick-up, 1997, $2500 or best offer” and so seeing as it was on the way home, we went for a look. And this is where the brown smelly stuff came in, because even though the pickup was white, I couldn’t think of a more appropriate description.

Seeing as I’m leaving here tomorrow I shall just have to resign myself to not having a pickup again. But these rental charges are killing me.