Category Archives: piraeus

Monday 14th October 2013 – I’M IN PARIS NOW …

air france airbus 319 athens airport greecealthough I rather wish that I wasn’t. It’s wet, depressing and miserable, just like I am.

And compare that to the photo here that I took of my plane at Athens Airport – bright gorgeous sunshine enough to put a smile on the face of anyone. I can understand why people who live in countries like Greece and Italy are so happy. Who couldn’t be, with weather like this?

Our ‘plane was an Airbus 319 which was quite comfortable even if there were 150 – 25 rows of 6 – of us aboard. What was rather funny (or not, though) was that there were two toilets on the plane, one for First-Class passengers (of which there were about 30) and one for the huddled masses such as Yours Truly, who were kept well-and-truly curtained off from our elders and betters.

On the ‘plane though, dressed in the traditional habit of an Orthodox Monk, was a dead-ringer for one of my childhood heroes, the Cypriot champion of Enosis and clandestine leader of the EOKA, Archbishop Prekarios.

sunrise over Aegina greeceThe morning was totally beautiful, though. I was up quite early and went out to take a few photos of the sunrise and that didn’t disappoint me at all.

And what was so funny about that though was that the Transcendental Meditationists were already up and about, encamped upon their little terrace, presumably to stop Trixi and Yours Truly invading it for our morning session on the mats (followed, of course, by a little yoga). Clearly even Western Transcendental Meditationists are allowed to have issues over possessions and territory here on the real earth. Perhaps they are just beginners.

I found that almost as funny as the leader of another group storming up, rather aggressively, to another bunch of people, adopting a menacing pose and shouting in a voice loud enough for those on the island of Angina to hear clearly “would you mind being quiet – I’m trying to give a seminar down here and you are disrupting me”. That was the leader of those engaged in the “Non-Violent Communication” sessions.

rosy's little village agistri greeceWe went around afterwards and photographed the complex where we were staying. This is part of one of the blocks of accommodation – my room is down there in the bottom right-hand corner and even though it looks right out of the way, it’s quite deceptive because there’s a substantial slope down to the cliffs and I had a small terrace with a view over the sea and that suited me.

All in all, we had a very good time here. I was certainly glad that I came and wouldn’t hesitate about coming a second time, even if it was just for a holiday and not for a course of something.

village of megalokhoros agistri greeceOur ferry back to Piraeus sails from the port of Megalokhoros – “Big Village” and, true to form with everything else that has happened so far this holiday, it was late and so we had to loiter on the quayside for quite some time.

The bus ride back to the airport was quite uneventful – no-one killed or injured and no luggage sailing up and down the bus. Somehow it was quite a disappointment, even though I did quite clearly see an old white Wolseley 6/80 in a scrapyard at the side of the road. I can see myself needing a much bigger suitcase next time I come here because what with the Wolseley and the Zundapp pick-up, I’m going to be rather overloaded.

The plane was late too, just for a change, and so we had a final coffee together. She then went for the train to Athens and I headed for my plane. Greek security was thorough, but cheerful. They were smiling, saying “please” and “thank you” and generally relaxing the passengers rather than stressing them out in the British, French, Canadian and American style.

There was some real excitement though. A couple with a baby were trying to take all of their worldly possessions onto the aeroplane as cabin luggage, even though it would clearly not fit into the measuring gauge. When the girls at the ticket desk tried to explain this, the woman became quite hysterical, and, shame as it is to say it, rather nasty and offensive. I’m not quite sure how the situation developed but when I passed them by on my way to board, a senior Greek airport official backed up by a quitedetermined-looking policeman, was saying patiently to them ‘but Madam, this is Greece. What they do in the USA has no relevance to what we do here”.

On arrival at Paris, I had to go to another hotel, as my Comfort Hotel at Le Mesnil was fully-booked. And in an irony that only ever happens in books and never in real life except to me, I had to wait hours for the bus to the “Ibis Budget” to arrive, whereas the bus for the “Comfort Hotel – Le Mesnil” was the first to arrive, and by a country mile as well.

Monday 7th October 2013 – IT’S A LITTLE-KNOWN FACT …

… that travelling as a passenger on a Greek bus is a guaranteed cure for constipation. I noticed last night that the driver was … errr … somewhat relaxed in his attitude to the road, other vehicles, road signals (including traffic lights) and the speed limit as we went to the Holiday Inn, but that was absolutely nothing compared to the driver of the X96 that took me to Piraeus this morning.

The day started as it meant to go on, with the alarm bell ringing just as I was about to fall asleep. But another quick shower brought me round and then I ate a hearty breakfast, seeing as I wasn’t sure about when I might next be in front of some food.

Despite the early start, it took until about 09:30 for the shuttle bus to start and that took me back to the airport where I found an X96 already there and waiting.

express bus X96 athens airport piraeus harbour greeceOnce we were all on board and the driver had checked our tickets, off we … errr … hurtled. It seems that €5:00 is the standard fare on the express buses which, for the 75 minutes to Piraeus, is an absolute bargain.

I couldn’t tell you which route that we took though, because I had my eyes closed for most of the way. I’ve never seen anything quite like this. A big articulated single decker, driving flat-out, overtaking almost everything in sight, passing stop signs and red traffic lights as though they weren’t there. Like I said earlier, a guaranteed cure for constipation. Forget your white-knuckle rides on the funfair – pay your €5:00 and come for 75 minutes on this bus.

However, in spite of the driver’s best efforts, I arrived at the docks just in time to see the 11:00 ferry to Agkistri disappearing out of the harbour. Next boat at 12:55. Still, it gave me a good chance to fall into major dispute with the junk sellers who infest Piraeus harbour. One fellow in particular felt the full force of my ire and even if he didn’t understand the language, he cannot have failed to understand the message.

posiedon hellas ferry hellenic seaways piraeus harbour greeceIt also gave me a good opportunity to have a nosey around the harbour. In Europe there’s an age limit of 25 years on ferried plying for hire, but Greece (in view of the incredible number of routes in operation) has negotiated an exception. Consequently there are all kinds of time-expired ferries laid off other routes and which have been bought by Greek operators and I know for a fact that many of the old ferries from the English Channel in the heyday of the routes in the early 1990s are out here. I’ll have to have a look at the names of some of the ferries that were parked up here and trace them back to see where they came from.

The hydrofoil Flying Dolphin XVII came in eventually and once we were all stowed aboard, off we shot out of the harbour, only to break down with a bang and a clatter (my dreadful luck was doing it again). But that was eventually fixed and off we shot again, smelling of diesel fumes and exhaust gases.

abandoned ships Saronic Gulf, upon which Piraeus is situated greeceOne thing for which the Saronic Gulf, upon which Piraeus is situated is well-known is its collection of ships. It’s where old merchant ships no longer capable of operating under modern maritime regulations are laid up until the various breaking yards in Turkey can take them in.

I’m not pretending that all of these ships in this photo are laid up – in fact you can see quite clearly that one or two have steam up – but the Bay is littered with stacks of ships just like this and in the absence of the possibility of a trip to beaches in India, this is the place to be for any lover of maritime transport such as Yours Truly.

aegina island Saronic Gulf, upon which Piraeus is situated greeceThe ferry made a brief stop at the island of Aegina, which is pretty enough, and then we were back at sea and going on to Agkistri

One thing about the Flying Dolphin that I can’t understand though is that while there’s a small bar on board, it was all closed up. Nowhere to buy a coffee or anything. As I have said on numerous occasions in the past, it’s not simply the question of lack of refreshment, it’s also a total waste of a busines opportunity. A captive audience on a ferry for 55 minutes and no means of enticing them to spend their hard-earned cash.

island agkistri Saronic Gulf, upon which Piraeus is situated greeceI was met at Agkistri by a driver from the place where we are staying. He came in the company car, the oldest Fiat Panda to be still in existence and a worthy successor to the original 2CV of the late 1940s (and built for the same reasons too). Now I’m installed in my little room which, although tiny, has all mod cons as well as a balcony overlooking the sea, and I can’t think of any way that I could be more happy and more comfortable than this.

After all of my exertions of the last few days, I crashed out right after dinner and that was that.