Category Archives: baie des chaleurs

Monday 26th September 2016 – I MUST HAVE BEEN …

… tired last night. I was in bed at 20:00 and away with the fairies straight away for a good half hour. It didn’t take long. But I couldn’t stay asleep and the next hour or so saw me lying there reading a book. Eventually though, I closed my eyes and there I was, gone. And apart from one trip down the corridor, I remember nothing whatsoever until the alarm went off at 06:00.

It took me quite a while to gather my wits and then I set to and tidied up my things because I’m moving on today. I’m feeling better today so I want to take advantage of it while I can. Rachel and I had breakfast together and then I loaded up Strider and we set off.

A brief stop at the tyre depot for a coffee and chat with everyone there, and then I hit the road northwards. At Grand Sault I stopped for fuel and then headed off cross-country towards the Baie des Chaleurs. At Kedgwick I stopped to buy a baguette and I’m glad that I did because they were at half-price in the sale. I stopped off a little further on at a nice quiet spot off the road, right up in the hills, and ate lunch.

Near Atholville I came out of the mountains and this was where I had to make a decision. I was planning to look for a motel here – it’s been a long drive from Centreville – but as I was still feeling up for continuing so I diverted myself up the Matapedia valley and into Quebec.

One thing about Quebec is that no-one obeys the speed limits. It’s 90kph on the main roads and I had the cruise control set accordingly. And after about 30 miles through the mountains I had a queue of about 20 vehicles – lorries and all sorts – right behind me in a long crocodile. But when I turned off at Amqui to head north, I left them all behind.

Matane was my destination, and how peeved was I when I pulled in there. The ferry across the Gulf of St Lawrence was just pulling out – wouldn’t it have been something had I arrived here an hour earlier? I could have been well and truly gone, and quite by accident too. But never mind, hey?

I had a little errand to do here, and then I went to look for accommodation. My choice of motel – the cheap one on the waterfront, was closed for the season, as you might expect, and so I had to look elsewhere. By now I was feeling rather out of it, having driven about 450 kms today, and so I ended up in somewhere expensive. And expensive it was too, because I have stayed in many better places and for much less money too. And I would even miss breakfast, because that starts at 06:30 and I’ll be gone by then.

There was no microwave in the room either, and so I had to look elsewhere for food. A tour around Matane, which took me past a few motels that would have been much better than where I was staying, found me a pizza place where they did me a pizza – one which was quite expensive but which was one of the best that I have ever eaten.

So now I’m settling down in my room (and I do have to admit that the bed is super-comfortable) ready for my really early start tomorrow.

Saturday 10th October 2015 – MY QUIET WEEKEND CONTINUES

I had a nice relaxing night last night in my motel room doing not very much at all. At least I had a really good sleep and a nice warm shower this morning.

And by the time that I was ready to leave, the rain was on the verge of stopping but we were having a really high wind and that was depressing.

railway station matapedia baie des chaleurs gaspe peninsula highway 132 quebec canadaFirst stop that I made after driving through the Appalachain mountains was at the small town of Matapedia.

Apart from the town itself and its position on the junction off across the river and into New Brunswick, the interesting thing about the town itself is the railway station. The railway line that runs from Halifax to Montreal along the coast passes through here and, much to everyone’s surprise, there’s a passenger service

railway station matapedia baie des chaleurs gaspe peninsula highway 132 quebec canadaBut as you can see, the passenger service, run by VIARAIL, runs just once per day (and then not on Tuesdays).

And the station looks like it too. The building is almost derelict, the woodwork is rotting away, it’s overgrown with dust and weeds, and the rails are rusted. It’s really in quite a deplorable state but at least it’s here. Any complaints and a demand for an overhaul, and VIARAIL will probably just pull the service.

transport action atlantic campaign sign railway station matapedia baie des chaleurs quebec canadaAnd it seems that I’m not the only one to be concerned by the lack of attention that VIARAIL is paying to the Atlantic provinces, and that’s good news.

There’s an organisation called Transport Action Atlantic which seems to be involved in revitalising rail transport in New Brunswick and this organisation seems to be doing something here at Matapedia as you can see here.

It’s not that the aims of this group are utopic – far from it – it’s just that the organisations with which it is dealing is so intransigent that any form of negotiated agreement is impossible. But nevertheless, I wish them luck.

atholville campbelltown sugar loaf head of baie des chaleurs gaspe peninsula highway 132 quebec canadaI found a road that led down to the head of the Baie des Chaleurs too, so that I could take a photo of it.

There’s a good view of the Sugar Loaf mountain over there to the right, and the huge pulp mill at Atholville in front of it.

I stopped at Campbelltown to use the internet at Tim Horton’s and then to do some shopping at Sobey’s. And then I was off into the mountains to the western side of New Brunswick

old cars sunbeam minx new brunswick canadaAnd what do you think about this then?

I can’t remember when was the last time that I saw one of these in the UK, never mind North America. It’s a Hillman Minx, badge-engineered as a “Sunbeam” and dates from the late 50s or very early 1960s and it’s as rare as hens teeth.

But I’ve been saying quite a lot that in the space of 20 years Britain went from selling its cars all over the world to not even being able to sell its own cars in its own country. It’s probably the most dramatic collapse of industry in the whole of the history of the world and has contributed to the decline of the UK from a major world power to an insignificant offshore island.

Seeing vehicles like this in isolated corners of the world just goes to underline it.

I ended up in Perth Andover at a little motel. I always spend my last night on the road in a motel so I can clean and tidy everything. This one is nicely-situated just off the highway near a pizza place (so I can use up my vegan cheese) and I can wash all of my pots, pans and crockery in perfect peace.

Wednesday 7th October 2015 – I HAD YET ANOTHER …

… really bad night last night. Only on this occasion there wasn’t any particular reason for it. I was still awake at 02:00 this morning, which is not like me over here, is it? And worse still, I had no idea why that might have been.

I crawled under the shower and then made a coffee but I still didn’t feel much better.

grande riviere baie des chaleurs gaspe peninsula highway 132 quebec canadaAnyway, to wake myself up, I made myself another mug of coffee and went down to the harbour for a walk around and some fresh air.

And, strangely enough, this would have been quite a good place to have stayed for the night. There was plenty of space here and there were quite a few boats up on stocks. I could have tucked myself in here quite happily in the peace and quiet and been well away.

Still, you live and learn, don’t you?

la roche percée baie des chaleurs gaspe peninsula highway 132 quebec canadaHaving fuelled up Strider, I set off again and after a good drive I pulled up on a rest area to admire the view and drink another coffee.

We’ve all seen this rock before haven’t we? It’s La Roche Percée, the Pierced Rock, and we came by here before. It’s said to be one of the hundreds of places where Jacques Cartier made a landing and erected a cross.

If he really did land at all of the places that are claimed as his landing sites, he would probably be still out there now, but this time it’s probably correct because no-one could invent a description of this particular site without having visited it and there isn’t another place that resembles this in the whole of the St Lawrence estuary.

I was away with the fairies for about an hour up here too in the lovely sunny late-morning, and then I set off again to continue my travels.

perce baie des chaleurs gaspe peninsula highway 132 quebec canadaWe’ve seen the town of Percé before and so I won’t trouble you with another photo of the town itself. The only thing that you need to remember is that half of the buildings are motels and the other half are tourist attractions.

But all of that notwithstanding, we certainly haven’t seen the town and the rock from this angle. And although you can’t see the hole in the rock, this is certainly the most exciting angle to view everything. But itwas quite an effort to take the photo. There’s nowhere to park except at the side of the road and there’s an endless stream of traffic up the hill.

railway locomotive station gaspe baie des chaleurs gaspe peninsula highway 132 quebec canadaWe finally solve the mystery of the railway when we arrive at the town of Gaspé. All of the railway installations have been swept away and there’s a huge tourist information building constructed on the site.

And parked out at the back of it is the train here. We’ve seen dozens of locomotives like this and so I think that it might be one of the GP38 family, but I’ll need to check up on that.

railway train locomotive station gaspe baie des chaleurs gaspe peninsula highway 132 quebec canadaThe girl in charge of the tourist information office told me the story of the train, so now I can tell you all.

VIARAIL stopped running the trains to Montreal about 6 years ago and abandoned the line, so she said. It’s now a tourist scenic railway that runs just as far as Percé and back again in the summer months with no connection to the main line at Compbelltown, which should make life interesting if they ever need to replace the loco or send it away for repair.

But that’s not likely to happen as the service didn’t run this year. It seems that important work is needed to be done on the line but the Quebec Government hasn’t done it. “Maybe they’ll do it ready for next year” she said, and I’m not convinced that she believed it either.

The latest update on all of this is that Jean-François Turcotte told me “that was RS-18u 1849; it’s been trucked-out to the active portion of the line and is now used to haul woodchip, cement and windmill parts along with three other RS-18u’s. The carriages for the former l’Amiral tourist train are still in Gaspé, AFAIK.”

And Anthony Bernard Prince said ” A lot of track maintenance work will be carried out on the 3rd section of our railroad between Port-Daniel and Gaspé this year (2021). The majority of the work will be carried out between Chandler and Douglastown. 15,000 ties will be replaced, many crossings will be replaced, and thousands of tons of ballast will be spread.”

The town of Gaspé is a nightmare to negotiate as the whole road system is torn up for repair. I eventually made it to Tim Horton’s but didn’t stay long. Instead, I moved on and I’m now esconced at the site of the old World War II military defences for the bay. It’s a little-known fact that I had the UK fallen to the Germans in World War II, the Royal Navy would have come and set themselves up over here in the Gaspé.

And on the way out of Gaspé on the way to here here I drove past two motels that I hadn’t noticed in 2010. Where were they when I needed them?

Tuesday 6th October 2015 – WHAT A NICE NIGHT!

Flat out last night quite early on, sung to sleep by a huge flock of geese across the river from here. And I remember absolutely nothing at all until the alarm went off. Definitely one of the best night’s sleeps that I’ve had far quite a while.

a trace of condensation n the ceiling, but considering that I cooked a meal inside here last night, that’s no big deal at all

And so I was up and about quite early and I was able to catch up with a huge pile of paperwork that had been building up.

river bonaventure baie des chaleurs gaspe peninsula highway 132 quebec canadaAnd do you know what I did after that?

I made myself a coffee, found my breakfast biscuits, and then sat sat down for a whole three hours in the beautiful morning sunshine and read a book. And I didn’t move from my seat at all.

Mind you, I did have company. There’s one in every village and the one in Bonaventure was on the quayside looking in the bins for the cans and bottles that have a deposit (that’s a bit thing in Canada). He came over for a chat, which annoyed me because I really just wanted to sit quietly and read.

viarail railway station new carlisle baie des chaleurs gaspe peninsula highway 132 quebec canadaafter a very relaxed morning I set off, and a little further down the road I came into the town of New Carlisle. There was a sign there for the railway station and so I went down there to have a look around.

I didn’t think that I was going to be in luck though and see a train, I reckoned. Last time I was around here, which was back in 2010, there was some kind of VIARAIL passenger service – once a week to and from Montreal and the town of Gaspe if I remember correctly. But having had a good look around here, there’s been nothing moving on this line for quite a while.

viarail railway station new carlisle baie des chaleurs gaspe peninsula highway 132 quebec canada
That’s despite the fact that in the station building there’s still some kind of daily train service advertised to and from Montreal. But I’m not taking this sign seriously. There was a sign on the side of the building advertising “bureau à louer – working space for rent – contact VIARAIL” and I imagine that they are referring to the station building. That looks rather terminal to me.

All in all, this paints a rather sad picture of life out here on the Gaspé as far as public tranasport is concerned.

While I was in the area I went into the town of Paspebiac and did a load of food shopping because I was running low on food. I also finally discovered a Tim Horton’s and so I was able to upload a pile of stuff up to the internet.

paspebiac baie des chaleurs gaspe peninsula highway 132 quebec canadaHaving stocked up with food I went off to look for a nice place to have a late lunch. And I didn’t travel very far before I encountered this beautiful sandspit down at the harbour in Paspebiac.

There’s camp site right down there at the end of the sandspit – closed for the season of course – and also a port and some marine installations. And so I went down to the port and sat watching the sea for a good while, ate my butties and read a good book. I’ve certainly caught up with my reading on this trip around Eastern Canada this year.

baie des chaleurs gaspe peninsula highway 132 quebec canadaThe road further out along the Gaspé really is beautiful and I could have taken a thousand photos along here – except that I had taken them all when I passed by here in 2010.

But this area is quite busy as far as people go and I ended up being overtaken by the dark before I had found a place to sleep for the night. You have no idea just how quickly – or how early – it goes dark around here. Even though we are farther east than almost any point in New Brunswick, we are still on Quebec time which is an hour behind. Consequently by 18:00 the light has already gone.

In the end, I abandoned the search and ended up in Grande Riviere at an overpriced dosshouse that called itself a motel. This would have been a splendid place to stay 20 years ago, but it’s not had a lick of paint or a new carpet on the floor in all that time and it’s definitely tired.

But at least there’s a microwave, a fridge and a coffee machine so once more I can get some money back by not having to pay for a meal out.

Monday 5th October 2015 – AND THAT WAS ANOTHER NIGHT TOO

We started off with the smoke alarm. The battery was going flat and so after about an hour or so of crashing out, the alarm gave its warning beep.

And then an hour later, after I’d managed to go back to sleep, it bleeped again.

Eventually, once I realised what was going on, I ended up taking out the battery.

And then, after I’d gone back to sleep, Rhys texted me to tell me that all of South Carolina had been washed away in a biblical flood.

And not only that, I had forgotten once again to check the surrounding area for railway lines. And so we had the inevitable.

he net result of all of this was that by midnight I was totally wide awake and it took hours for me to go back to sleep. By the time 06:00 came round and the alarm went off, I was thoroughly wasted,

A coffee and a shower helped me on my way, but here’s a remarkable fact – I’ve driven over 250 kilometres today along Highway 132, one of the principal routes along southern Quebec and through several holiday resorts along the north shore of the Baie des Chaleurs, and in all of that distance along all of that highway through all of these places I’ve not encountered a single Tim Horton’s.

matapedia river highway 132 quebec canadaWe’re in the gorge of the Matapedia River now, on the southern slopes of the Appalachian Mountains and this is another really beautiful place to be. Once more, I could take a thousand photos of the area around here and I would never be able to do it justice.

And you can see down there the railway line that runs past the motel where I stayed last night. It’s the Canadian National railway line that links Halifax and Montreal and runs along the New Brunswick coast. The VIARAIL passenger expresses run along there, at least it did when I encountered one of them in 2010. Who knows what happens now.

matapedia river highway 132 quebec canadaFurther on southwards, we pass the town of Matapedia and round about here the land starts to flatten out as it approaches the Baie des Chaleurs.

There are some interesting hills along here and depending upon the viewpoint that you adopt, you can conjure up some bizarre shapes. And not only that, the light is much better for photography too so the photos come out much better.

And despite the important road junctions around here for the roads that bifurcate off to New Brunswick across the river, still no Tim Horton’s.

The Baie des Chaleurs is famous for being the site of a naval battle that effectively sealed the fate of the French in North America. Once the city of Quebec had fallen to the British, two fleets set out from Europe. One was British, to deliver arms and supplies, and the other was French, with supplies and soldiers to reinforce the French forces.

The British fleet arrived first at the city of Quebec and so the French fleet, following closely behind, put into the bay here to regroup and to think of a Plan B. But here, they were cornered by the British and the French fleet was destroyed. And that was that for the French.

museum battle of restigouche st lawrence river highway 132 quebec canadaA few years ago, an archaeological expedition in the bay had uncovered many relics of the naval battle, including the remains of some of the sunken ships, and a museum has been created to display the artefacts. This was my port of call for today.

However, you don’t need me to tell you what has happened, do you? The museum is “closed for the season” as you might expect and for once, I’m not able to blag my way in.

I just don’t understand why they have such a short tourist season in Canada. There’s a 10-week spell and that’s that. But nowadays with these huge mobile homes that they have, with all mod cons and central heating, and a rapidly-increasing population or early-retired people with a huge disposable income, they could run the tourist season 12 months of the year. It would bring much more income into the area spread out over a longer period, and so create much more permanent employment, but Governments and Civil Servants can’t think beyond the ends of their fingers. They have no long-term vision.

old ferry dalhousie highway 132 baie des chaleurs quebec canadaThere’s a huge bridge across the river here into New Brunswick but we’ve been on that before, and my old map indicates that there’s a ferry further up the river.

But the ferry is a disappointment as you can see. According to the guy working here with his tractor, the ferry has been closed down for 10 years and the only way across to New Brunswick now is the bridge. But we spent a good half hour putting the world to rights too. Canada is just like everywhere else in the world where people are fed up with the Government, big business, and the whole of modern society.

dalhousie highway 132 baie des chaleurs quebec canadaAnd so I went off to find a place to eat my butties.

Here I am on the shore of the Baie des Chaleurs overlooking the town of Dalhousie in New Brunswick. In the peace and quiet I enjoyed my butties, and the next thing that I remember was that it was about 15:35. I’d crashed out good and proper yet again due to my difficulties during the last couple of nights and this at least is one way of catching up with my missed sleep.

la grande hermine highway 132 baie des chaleurs quebec canadaNow how about this?

This is La Grande Hermine – or, at least, a half-size replica of it. She – the original at least – was the ship in which Jacques Cartier sailed to Canada on his 1534 expedition, and a guy who runs a holiday chalet complex had traced the plans, sent off to France for a copy and then built this half-size replica.

It took about 7 months work over a period of a year and a half to build it, and he’s made a magnificent job of it too.

la grande hermine highway 132 baie des chaleurs quebec canadaIt’s now a two-bedroomed holiday chalet and I was lucky enough to be given a guided tour of it. And it really is magnificent.

I asked the owner if he had much trouble having the plans passed by the local authority and he said none at all because they haven’t even seen them, never mind passed them.

And so how has he managed it? The answer is that someone from the maritime department has inspected it because it is officially classed as a boat. And it does indeed float too, so he’s okay for whenever global warming overwhelms the bay – provided that he manages to find a pair of every known species of animal to go with him.

timber trestle viaduct highway 132 baie des chaleurs quebec canadaAnd how about this too?

At one time in North America there used to be timber trestle viaducts everywhere but you’ll be hard-pushed today to find one. We did discover one a couple of years ago but that was on an abandoned line, but here is a timber trestle viaduct on a railway line that is still(as far as I am aware) functioning. It’s a thoroughly magnificent beast as you can see and I wouldn’t mind taking this home with me.

bombardier snowplough highway 132 baie des chaleurs quebec canadaSomething else that I wouldn’t mind taking home with me is this tracked snowplough. It’s a Bombardier, of course, like the snow cat that we saw in Goose Bay a few years ago, and this would be fun for me to play with on the fatm back home.

It’s for sale too and the price is not unreasonable, but I’d have no idea how I could go about getting it to fit in my hand luggage on the aeroplane and the airline would probably have a fit.

river bonaventure highway 132 baie des chaleurs quebec canadaAnd so here I am tonight on my spec at the old quayside on the River Bonaventure at the town of the same name, watching the sun set over the old lighthouse.

I’ve cooked myself a meal and now I’m going to be settling down for a nice night in Strider to see if I wan catchup on some of my beauty sleep.

Having seen my face in a mirror this morning, I reckon that I need it.

Tuesday 2nd November 2010 – HAVING SURVIVED …

arts motor inn dalhousie new brunswick canada… last night’s motel I woke up to the coldest day of the journey so far (Labrador excluded of course).

It’s minus 1°C as I leave the motel and I’m now in winter gear – thick jacket, hat and gloves.

I’m just amazed at how quickly winter has arrived here.

campbelltown new brunswick canadaSo off for a quick tour of Dalhousie and its neighbouring town, Campbelltown, where the predominant language spoken here is, as you might expect, … errrr … French, even though this is New Brunswick.

And crossing the head of Chaleur Bay into Quebec, the predominant language in the town in which you arrive is … errrr … Mikmac.

Strawberry Moose and I had the pleasure of being introduced to the new tribal chief, the old one having just won the world’s tea-drinking championship, he died in his teepee.
“I am Chief Sitting Duck” said the chief
“How” I replied
“How” replied Strawberry Moose.
“And this is my favourite squaw Minnimama”
“How” I replied
“How” replied Strawberry Moose
“I bought her for two buffalo skins” said the chief
“How” I replied
“Never mind how” said Strawberry Moose. “Where?”

carleton gaspesie gaspe peninsula bay des chaleurs quebec canadaAnd so then along the north bank of the Baie de Chaleur, or the south shore of the Gaspe Peninsula, depending upon how you look at it.

The first European to set foot here was Jacques Cartier in his epic voyage of 1534 (although if he did indeed set his foot in everywhere that he is supposed to have set his foot he would never have had time to have written about it)

caplain gaspesie gaspe peninsula bay des chaleurs quebec canada
This north bank (or south shore) is really beautiful and you can’t move along it without tripping over a motel ir a guest house. There are thousands of them.

And quite right too – it is one of the most scenic parts of whatever passes for the Canadian Riviera and well worth the visit, and it’s not all that often that you hear me say that.

gaspesie perce gaspe quebec canadaHighlight of today’s part of the voyage has to be the town of Perce, and this was where I was headed.

Cartier also had a landfall here and this time there would seem to be no doubt at all about this – he describes perfectly the offshore island with the hole through the middle, and it truly is spectacular, so I’m not surprised that he remarked upon it.

motel adams gaspe quebec canadaI’m now in a motel in the town of Gaspe – the eastern-most town on the peninsula.

Gaspe is quite a historic place, a well-known former port but, alas, with everything demolished in the 1970s and much of it not yet rebuilt, as modern ships are far too big to use the new port.

And I have realised that tomorrow, if I can get a place on the late evening ferry to Baie Comeau from Matane, this will be my last night south of the St Lawrence.

That is rather a depressing thought, you know.

Monday 1st November 2010 – THE ONE THING …

… that I’ve learnt from stopping on my way around is that it’s very hard to start up again. And it was indeed hard to go back on the road. But this morning it was a case of having to. Turning on the radio and hearing Lindisfarne‘s
“I have no-one to call my friend”
“The road I travel has no end”
“and so I turn my face up to the sun”
“and walk on down the road to Kingdom Come”
that didn’t help matters.

family taylor centreville new brunswick canadaI really enjoy my time in Centreville with Rachel and her family and friends. It’s the closest thing that I have ever had to a family and I am always really sorry to leave

And leave I must, unless I can pull off something truly spectacular, and I do have a cunning plan, from what I have learned while I have been over here.

snow mount carleton new brunswick canadaIn 2003 I started my circuit in Bathurst and that was where I was aiming for. I wanted to poke around the town as I didn’t see it then due to the thick fog that was there.

But the road across New Brunswick back to the east coast was exciting, due in no small part to the fact that we had heavy snow in places. Winter is truly here and how quickly it has changed since Thursday when I was wandering around Woodstock in shirt sleeves.

bathurst new brunswick canadaAs for Bathurst, it’s tempting to say that I didn’t really miss all that much, but then I did pick a really bad time to call.

The big paper mill had closed down suddenly without much notice, and there was a big industrial dispute going on about a big hotel or something that had also closed down leaving scores of people stranded. No town could look its best under such circumstances, and I should perhaps have postponed my visit until another time when the town has had sufficient time to sort itself out.

baie des chaleurs gaspesie quebec canadaSo after Bathurst I had a leisurely drive along the coast northwards, admiring the wind turbines across the Baie des Chaleurs in the Gaspesie, all bathed in the glorious evening sunlight.

And as I was driving through Dalhousie and debating whether to stop at one of two B&Bs at $65 or a motel “starting from $69” in Campbelltown, I came across a motel at $59 that wasn’t in the tourist guide.

And I’m not surprised either – but then again I’ve stayed in worse and there’s the internet and a TV (it’s Monday Night Football) and it might be tatty and so on but it’s clean, and I’ll have my money’s worth here without a doubt.

Remember that I’m on the economy package and I’m going for “value for money”. However if I don’t blog tomorrow you will know that I will have been stabbed to death in the shower.