Category Archives: USA

Wednesday 7th October 2010 – THE ONE THING THAT I’VE …

salmon fishing New York State USA… learnt about Americans, especially in upstate New York is that they provide more entertainment for the tourists than Disney ever did

I’d stopped at this hydro-electric generator to look at the waterfall over the barrier and I have to say that I have never ever seen so many fishermen there. That astonished me because the speed that the water was coming over was incredible and I didn’t expect any fish to be hanging around there at all.

I talked to a couple of the fishermen to ask what they were fishing for. Salmon is the answer, but neither of them had caught anything that day (and it was now early evening). But just then this guy was dragged off downriver with something – and whatever it was must have been impressive) on the end of his line.

He was there for quite a while struggling with this fish (I assumed it was a fish and not a submarine or something) and after a while he was clearly getting the upper hand. But the fish put up one hell of a fight and it was by no means certain.

salmon fishing new york state usaBy now there were few people fishing and the crowd of spectators in the background were all transfixed on this little scene. Someone produced a fishing net and joined in the fun and as the fish started to tire, the fisherman began to reel it in.

It still wasn’t all over as the guy with the net needed a few grabs – the first time he missed it completely, to the accompaniment of loud guffaws from the crowd – but eventually he managed to get it into his net.

It’s quite a big fish too. Someone reckons that it was 30 pounds and someone else said about 25. But of course they both could be right. It might have been 30 pounds at the start and during the struggle it could have burnt off pounds of flesh that would have cut it down to size a little.

salmon fishing new york state usaAnd so there’s one proud fisherman on his way back home. His wife can put the chicken back in the freezer and it’s fresh fish with the chips tonight.

But the funny thing about it all was that the fish had the last laugh. As the fisherman was taking the hook out of its mouth the fish bit him.

And serve him right!

Now I’m sure that you are all wondering where it took place. And as a matter of fact, so am I. And that’s because today we have had a calamity. My old hand-held tape dictaphone that I have had since 1993 and which has accompanied me on my travels everywhere has finally given up the ghost. I think that the drive belt has snapped.

I’m having to use the digital one that I bought to replace it and which I don’t like at all as it’s nothing like as spontaneous as the old one. I dunno what I’ll have to do now but I bet it won’t be cheap

twin rocks motel ontario new york state usaAfter last night’s excitement, I’m pleased to report that I had a really good night’s sleep and I was ready for anything (except the dictaphone) this morning.

Even sweeping off a huge pile of leaves off the bonnet and roof of Casey (autumn is definitely here and no mistake) didn’t cause me any problems, and I was on the road pretty quickly.

bear creek ontario new york usaWhile I was on my travels last night looking for food, I’d seen a sign for “Bear Creek”.

Carry on Cowboy is definitely one of the top three Carry On films ever made and the scene where Big Heap alias Charles Hawtrey dashes into the saloon and shouts “Gold Strike at Bear Creek” still has me in stitches even now.

Of course, that was a long time ago but no harm in going to see if there is anyone here.

lake ontario pultneyville new york usaPultneyville is an interesting little town down along the shore of Lake Ontario.

First settled at the end of the 18th Century, it was the scene of a confrontation between local militia and a small British naval force in 1814. It was also a quite important port on the lake and even had its own railway line, but the opening of the Erie Canal led to its decline. Now, it’s mainly a seasonal resort town.

After spending an hour or so watching the antics at the dam, I took another deviation down to Cape Vincent.

tibbetts point lighthouse cape vincent new york USALake Ontario narrows spectacularly here and we are at the entrance to the St Lawrence Seaway. There’s obviously a need for the narrow to be illuminated and thus we have Tibbetts Point Lighthouse.

There have been several here since Captain Tibbetts donated the land for the lighthouse. This version dates from 1854 and, rarely, still has its original Fresnel lens.

rover P6 new york state usaNow how about this? After the SDI yesterday (was it yesterday?) I’ve now found myself a P6 Rover. And it’s a TC as well which means that it will most likely be a 2000 or a 2.2, not a V8 3.5-litre. Now how about that in the USA?

It’s been ages since I’ve seen an old car (SD1s excluded of course) and I was certainly not expecting o see a P6 anywhere like around here.

thousand islands bridge ontario canada new york state usa st Lawrence seawayThat’s Canada that, just over there. You can see how close I am to it here.

That’s the Thousand Islands Bridge going over the St Lawrence Seaway. It was built in 1937 and finished 10 weeks ahead of schedule, which goes to show that it wasn’t a Local Government project, and modernised in 1959.

It’s actually a series of bridges, not just one, that bridge the St Lawrence by using the islands as stepping stones. Its total length, including access roads, is about eight and a half miles.

And now it’s getting dark, and I’ve found a motel and a Walmart. I spent ages in Walmart copying my next batch of photos onto CD. It said “it will be done in minutes” – and fair enough, a hundred minutes is minutes so no dispute there.

I also found a Lowe’s  where I stocked up on electrical items – plugs and sockets and the like,including some colour-coded ones which will be useful.

And now I’m just a stone’s throw from the Canadian border and I’ll be there tomorrow.

Wednesday 6th October 2010 – I RECKON THAT I MIGHT JUST STAY IN THE USA FOR GOOD ..

weird road sign derby new york state usa… if I could keep on finding business opportunities such as this one. What a way to earn a living, hey?

But seriously – I can’t live here. Driving through Buffalo earlier today and already in a really bad humour (I’ve had a run-in with another security guard) I came across a woman in tears on the edge of the street, with a baby, and with all her possessions scattered around her. And it was in the driving, streaming rain too.

Apparently the bailiffs had just been.

buffalo new york usaBut Buffalo is a city that is already in my bad books, and has been for quite some time. In 1860-something a steamer launched in 1846 – one of the earliest lakers – sank in Lake Erie in a storm.

A few years ago a couple of divers located it and it was raised from the sea bed and taken to Buffalo for restoration. However the mayor declared it an “eyesore” and called in the scrapmen, who promptly cut up this rare, if not unique historical artefact.

In 1813 the British burnt Buffalo to the ground during one of the American wars, and believe me, I was sorely tempted to make my own re-enaction of that historic event. 

There can’t be any greater eyesore in any city anywhere in the whole world than the sight of a crying woman and her child out in the street in the middle of a rainstorm with nowhere to go and no-one offering any help. 10% of the American working population is out of work, there are thousands of jobs going every day, and there’s no state aid for anyone.

dodge power wagon pennsylvania usaAnd talking of that, just a short while later, I stopped to take a photo of an absolutely ancient Dodge Power Wagon plant mover used as a haulage truck in a boatyard. Fishing from the quay was an old guy. I got talking to him about things.

“Well”, he said “I worked for 29 years as a shopping centre manager and I was laid off in the spring. I don’t suppose I’ll ever work again and I don’t know what I’ll do now. And in my spare time I was a bailiff for the sheriff’s office but I had to give that up too. It was just so distressing turfing all of these people out into the street.

It’s the rich who are causing all of these problems in the USA – it’s high time a few of them were turned out into the street and made to suffer”.

I once heard someone say that the USA is a great place in which to succeed. Indeed it is, but it’s a dreadful place to fail. If the USA has the highest standard of living in the world, then there must be some awfully rich people somewhere well-hidden, because all I ever seem to encounter are the poor. And there are plenty of them!

el patio motel erie pennsylvania usar>After all of that, there isn’t an awful lot to say about my journey. I wasn’t really in the mood for much.

I left my rather expensive motel on the edge of Erie, Pennsylvania, in the rain and the further along the road that I travelled, the more the weather. Just like my humour did, I suppose. It was going to be one of those days.

sea lion barcelona harbour westfield new york state usaBut it’s astonishing, the things that you encounter along the road. At Westfield, near the quaintly-named Barcelona Harbour, I came across the Sea Lion.

It’s a replica of a British 3-masted sailing barque of the late 16th Century and it gives you an idea of the size of the ships that they used to cross the Atlantic in the early days of exploration.

But I can’t think what was going through their minds when they decided to build it, and why they have let ths ship degenerate subsequently into such a poor condition. Seeing that the bay in which the ship is situated is so depressing, perhaps they wanted their barque to be worse than their bight.

strawberry moose new york police usaStrawberry Moose had a good photo opportunity today as well.

I’d stopped at a local Moose Lodge to see if there were any friends and family of His Nibs in the vicinity, but a local copper stopped to find out what was happening. So having given my explanation, he very kindly (and much to my surprise) allowed His Nibs to have his moment of glory.

So let’s hear it for the New York Police!

graycliff derby new york state usaI also stumbled upon Graycliff – one of the houses that was designed by the famous architect Frank Lloyd Wright.It dates from the late 1920s and was built for the Martin family.

The were wealthy entrepreneurs in Buffalo and in fact sponsored Wright in his early days, but were wiped out in the Depression and the house was sold to a Monastic Order who used it as a school.

graycliff derby newyork state usa When the school was closed in the 1990s, there were plans to demolish the place and build a huge housing estate here, but the property was saved by a preservation group (a rare event in the USA)

And famous architect as Frank Lloyd Wright might have been, he designed his house without guttering as it would spoil the aesthetic effect. I suppose that that was much more important than spoiling the foundations and the clothes of the people entering and leaving the property.

It wasn’t actually open when I arrived but I managed to blag my way in for a look around the garden

niagara falls new york state usaNo-one can pass by Buffalo without going for a look at Niagara Falls and once more, Strawberry Moose was in luck as a Tourist Guide/Security Guard agreed to pose in the same photograph as His Nibs.

It’s all quite astonishing, this. All of these officials and dignitaries and so on agreeing to be seen with him. Maybe there is an underlying sense of humour in the USA after all and I have been missing it for all of these years.

niagara falls new york state usaThe view from the Canada Side of the falls is even more impressive – well-worth the walk across the bridge to the other side of the river.

What was even more impressive was that parking for the whole day (had I decided to stay that long) was just $5:00, entry to the park was free, and the border crossing in and out of the USA was relatively painless. I wasn’t expecting anything like that.

niagara falls new york state usaIf you have been following my adventures from previous voyages you will be well-aware that I have been extracting the urine from the United States over its self proclaimed status as “Land of the Free”, because everywhere I have ever been to that has any kind of importance, it has been “Please Prepare Your Admission Money

It’s only right and proper that I record the events surrounding my visit to Niagara Falls.

fort niagara new york state usaAt the head of the river, on Lake Ontario, is Fort Niagara. There’s a British fort on the other side of the river directly opposite and during the various revolutionary wars and so on, there have been a good few battles between the two sides.

There was also a major battle between the British and the French in 1759, and in the grounds was a German Prisoner-of-War camp from World War II

lake ontario toronto canadaSomething right across the lake caught my eye but I couldn’t make out what it was, so I photographed it at the fullest extension of the zoom lens in order to have a play with the image later.

And this is what I saw – it’s the city of Toronto – probably 30 miles or so across the lake and it’s astonishing what a really good camera and lens can capture in the right kind of weather conditions.

You can see that the weather has brightened up – and so have I by now.

Tonight, I’m now in a small town called Ontario, in Upper New York State. Tomorrow I’m going to stay on the south side of the St Lawrence as far as I can until the last bridge across (round about Quebec I reckon) and then head north to Labrador.

Tuesday 5th October 2010 – SOUTHERN SHORE OF LAKE ERIE

mar lu motel marblehead ohio usaThis is my motel from last night.

It was rather out of my budget but

  • it was here
  • it was open
  • it had a room
  • it was nice and comfortable
  • it had a good situation right on the waterfront

and you can’t say fairer than that.

lorry fitted with wheels for running on railway lines sandusky usaAnd remember years ago when we saw that lorry driving up the railway line and I thought that it was an optical illusion?

So here’s another one and you can see by the fittings underneath it that it’s not an optical illusuon and these lorries do actually exist. I had a chat to the workers – apparently they are rail welders and check the rails for cracks, which they weld up if they can, or signal for replacement if they can’t.

raw sewage discharge into lake erie sandusky ohioLake Erie has a reputation of being the filthiest lake in the world, with all kind of industrial discharges into the water.

But that’s not all that is discharged into the lake, judging by this sign. And to think that there’s a beach resort just a couple of miles up the road. Not that the USA would care too much about that, I suppose.

vermillion inland waterways museum ohio usaThis is the Vermillion Inland Waterways Museum, or some such name. It goes without saying that it was closed when Casey, Strawberry Moose and I visited. But then again, I wasn’t expecting anything else.

And Vermillion is the birthplace of Lester Allen Pelton who invested the “Pelton Wheel” type of water turbine. I had a quick look around but couldn’t see anything in the town to commemorate him.

marina vermillion ohio usaThe Vermillion Museum is situated in Ferry Road, which tells you such a lot about the history of the town, and it its fortune has always been based around the water.

Today, it’s famous for its marina and attracts thousands of water-borne tourists each year (who I bet haven’t read the notice in the harbour down the road at Sandusky). Nevertheless, it’s a nice pretty little place even in this kind of weather.

cleveland ohio usaThat’s Cleveland, Ohio, just down there. I was planning to park up and go for a little wander around but just after this photo I was engulfed in this most astonishing rainstorm the like of which I haven’t seen in ages.

That put paid to all of my plans – I wasn’t going to set foot out of the car in this kind of weather. I stayed put and carried on driving.

But one thing astonished me about Cleveland is that not only did it have buses, it had dedicated bus lanes too. Imagine that in the USA!

aldi food store cleveland ohio usaAnd that wasn’t all that surprised me about Cleveland either. Here on the corner of Lakeside Boulevard and East 315th Street is an Aldi. I had to go in for a look around.

And my conclusion? Well, the only resemblance that it bears to the European version of the shop is the sign on the shop front. For a start, the Bargain Section is total rubbish, something that would never be the case in a European Aldi, and no-one from Europe would ever recognise any of the products on sale here. The “German” potato salad bore no resemblance to any potato salad that any German Aldi has ever sold.

Oooohhhhh! Now take a look at this.

rover sd1 ohio usaI’ve been musing to myself as I’ve been driving through Ohio that I haven’t seen any old cars around and that’s been something of a surprise. But here on the way out of Cleveland near Madison, I’ve encountered an old Rover SD1.

You don’t see any of these in the UK these days – they’ve all been broken for the V8 engines that people have fitted into Land Rovers, so no-one was more surprised than me to see this one looking comparatively fit and healthy in the USA. However did it manage to come here?

point park ashtabula ohio usaThis is Ashtabula – one of the very few working harbours remaining on Lake Erie these days. All kinds of stuff – coal, gravel are shipped from here and it has the reputation of being one of the most polluted places on the lake – and that’s saying something!

Bob Dylan sang about it, Jack Kerouac wrote about it, it’s also been the site of one of the USA’s worst railway disasters, and the rail ferry that sailed from here across the lake to Canada sank just off-shore following a collision. It was 52 years old at the time.

From here, I cross into Pennsylvania having missed out on the fate that befell Allison Krause, Jeffrey Miller, William Schroeder and Sandra Scheuer (and, incidentally, Joseph Lewis, John Cleary, Thomas Grace, Alan Canfora, Dean Kahler, Douglas Wrentmore, James Russell, Robert Stamps and Donald MacKenzie, the suffering of whom is largely ignored by the media).

In fact, you can tell that we are elsewhere other than Ohio by the amount of rubbish and old cars lying around. And I don’t mean that pejoratively either, because I’d been making little notes to myself all along today’s journey about how unusually (and unacceptably) tidy everywhere in Ohio is – it’s no place for me.

I’m running on fumes looking for a petrol station (which I eventually find, manned … "personned" – ed … by someone from Swindon, Wiltshire) and looking for a motel, as the night is upon me. Eventually, the town of Erie comes up with something and so I settle myself in.

It’s heaving down with rain and I’m not going out.

Monday 4th October 2010 – ENTER THE DRAG … UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

Monday today. everyone is back at work or back at University, and so it’s time for me to be moving on. I rescued Strawberry and prepared to enter the drag … errr … the Untied States.

And another 3-hour grilling too – it really annoyed me. It reminded me exactly of when I used to go to the Soviet Union – exactly the same grilling and exactly the same reason – “the interests of National Security”.

The USA spent 50 years trying to destroy Communism and then went to install exactly the same system of controlr there. I’m waiting for some high-powered American politician to admit that maybe the Soviets had a point. But I’m going to have to wait a long time. When was the last time that you met a frank and honest politician?

michigan central railway station detroit usaFirststop for any transport fan has to be the Michigan Central Railway Station in Detroit.

Built in 1913-14 a long way away from the city centre as a deliberate attempt to pull the development of the city down to that end, at its peak it handled over 200,000 people per day, by far the greater majority of whom came by the tram network.

But the Depression dealt the expansion of the city and also the tram network a fatal blow and passenger use melted away. On 6th January 1988 the last Amtrak train pulled out of the station and that was that.

When I arrived here, there was a copper standing outside talking to some people and so I asked him if it was ok to photograph it. After all, you never know. This is the paranoid nation called the United States of America.

I asked him what they were planning to do with the station, and he replied
nothing
So now we know.

dereliction and decay detroit michigan usaBut the Depression hasn’t yet finished with Detroit.

Frankly, with all of the industry collapsing or moving away, the city is dying. And it looks like it too. Everywhere that you go, buildings that aren’t demolished lie abandoned and looted and the place looks something like Fallujah after an American offensive (and nowhere have the Americans been more offensive than in Fallujah).

This is the view across Roosevelt Park from the station. And it was this photograph, as well as several others, exhibited elsewhere, that let to the epithet “ruins photography” being hurled at my work. Still, I’m not here to please everyone – I’m only intending to please myself.

fiesta auto insurance advertising mascotBut some of the citizens in Detroit have managed to maintain their sense of humour despite everything that the world has thrown at them.

Here’s a walking advert for an auto insurance company, and he was pleased to make the acquaintance of a fellow-traveller. The scene certainly brought a smile to the faces of many people going past and makes a change from ruins photography, doesn’t it?

michigan ohio state line usaI wasn’t long in Michigan. Just a little further down the road is the Ohio State Line and I stop to take a souvenir photoin order to celebrate our crossing.

This is now much more like rural USA, where I am hoping to be. I find urban areas so depressing, even affluent ones. But I’m not too sure about the 45mph speed limit. I hope that that is only a local arrangement.

All around the southern shore of Lake Erie I’ve seen loads of signs “say no to wind turbines” – all identical and all supplied by an organisation financed by the coal owners of the USA.

davis besse nuclear power station oak harbour ohio usaBut I haven’t seen a single sign against the nuclear reactor just here at Oak Harbor.

And that’s so surprising too seeing as in 2002 a large corrosion hole was discovered in the reactor head. The plant was closed down for two years “for maintenance” and the owners were fined a total of $33 million.

I think that that would worry me much more than a couple of windfarms. I just don’t understand the mentality of Americans who are so “suckered in” by corporate business-speak.

county court house port clinton ohio usaThis is the County Court House in Port Clinton, a beautiful little lakeside town on the shore of Lake Erie (or it would be beautiful if there weren’t a suspect nuclear reactor just down the road)

What impressed me about the Court House is that it’s been extended (the USA being what it is, it’s hardly surprising) and although you can see the join, they’ve built it in stone, and matching stone at that.

port clinton county court house ohio usaThey’ve clearly done their best, which is more than you can say for the UK. had this been on the other side of the Atlantic, a classic building such as this would have been totally disfigured by a glass-and-concrete monstrosity.

But while I was taking this photo a lorry clattered over the railway line behind me. I couldn’t believe it at first – thought that I was seeing things. I’ll have to look into that.

lake point marblehead lighthouse ohio usaThis is Marblehead lighthouse, with a beautiful view of the amusement park at Cedar Point which I have managed to avoid.

It also has a beautiful view of the city of Sandusky, which I have also managed to avoid, and they say that from the top of the lighthouse on a good day, you can see the tall buildings of the city of Cleveland 75 miles away, although why they think that that might be a selling point for tourists I really have no idea.

quarry marblehead ohio usaMy road in the gathering gloom brings me into the town of Marblehead and its famous quarry, and overhead conveyor that takes the crushed limestone all the way down to the harbour, where it’s loaded into lakers and shipped off to wherever.

There’s only one motel around here and it’s quite pricey, but it’s too late to go to look for anywhere else that might be more suitable to my budget.

mar lu motel marblehead ohio usaMind you, it’s well-appointed and comfortable, and good value for money if I could afford it, and the view out of my front door is probably worth a couple of extra quid anyway.

In order to bring my buget a little under control, I had bean burritos for tea. It’s a long time since I had them – New Bern, North Carolina, in 2005 as it happens. And they were just as nice and tasty as I remember them too and filling.

I ordered two and with some chips and a salad from Arby’s and a huge mug of raspberry iced tea it was delicious. And it filled me up.