Tag Archives: murol

Sunday 12th July 2015 – I AM LUCKY ENOUGH …

puy de sancy puy de dome france… to live within spitting distance of the most beautiful place on earth.

This morning, leaving my hotel, I climbed up out of Besse onto the plateau to the north and was presented with the most magnificent view of the Puy de Sancy that I have ever had.

As you know, I can see it from the Font Nanaud just down the road from where I live, but it never looked like this from up on the Font.

chateau de murol puy de dome franceA little further along the road I drove round a bend and was treated to a most spectacular view of the Chateau de Murol down there in the valley below.

And if that wasn’t enough, there was a gorgeous view of the Puy de Dome in the distance, and I’ve never been able previously to take a good photograph of the Puy de Dome from this perspective. I put it down to the weather because it really was a beautiful day out here today.

murol puy de dome franceI found a decent parking place just on the edge of Murol and went for a good wander around. And there was quite a bit to see as well.

The town is pretty much hemmed in here in the bottom of a steep valley with a river flowing through the middle. It’s another place full of stone buildings from another, far richer period but with a few exceptions, what isn’t an antique shop or trendy café is now closed down and up for sale.

That’s a shame because this could really be a nice place.

celtic ridgeway puy de dome franceFrom Murol I worked out the correct way to Olloix and this took me right up into the mountains.

Up here, the road followed a ridge on the hilltops and had I encountered this kind of road in this kind of situation in the UK I would immediately have said that this would have been a Celtic ridgeway, keeping to the high points out of the marshy valley bottoms and away from the wild animals that might have interfered with travel.

church olloix puy de dome franceOlloix was almost exactly as I imagined it, except that it has undergone quite a bit of tidying-up and the village now looks quite presentable.

There are also many more Knights Hospitalier remains that we are led to believe, if one knows what one is looking for.

I did chicken out of going down into the Gorge de la Monne, not the least of the reasons being that it was so hot this afternoon and I had no water with me.

benedictine monastery notre dame de randol St saturnin puy de dome franceI managed to visit a Benedictine monastery too, the Abbaye Notre Dame de Randol. I was totally unaware that it was here, because as you probably know, I do most of my research with ancient guide books, on the grounds that there’s so much interesting stuff that hasn’t made it onto the internet and it’s my aim to add as much as possible.

And so my 1957 Michelin Guide told me nothing about this place, which is hardly surprising seeing as construction wasn’t begun until 1969.

But I wasn’t at all impressed to see that, to visit the monastery, there’s a dress code. No shorts, no sleveless tops etc etc. I don’t understand what is the matter with these religious organisations. Didn’t God create man (and women)? So why would it offend God to see what his handiwork looks like?

But who am I to talk? As you all know, I was a big failure in my time in a Monastery. But it was the monotonous diet that did it for me. There were only two people who worked in the monastery kitchen – the chip monk and the fish friar.

london bus sales and service tallende puy de dome franceFrom here, I shot off to Tallende and civilisation, because I needed some diesel.

But never mind the diesel, look at this little lot. A couple of London Routemasters, at least one London Royal Tiger and a couple of other assorted buses from assorted fleets. This is the London Bus sales and service depot in, of all places, St Amant Tallende and it took me completely by surprise to discover it.

From here I went on to half a dozen small villages to take a few pics in case I ever get to feature them on the radio programmes that we do with Radio Anglais, and ended up at the Menhir Couché near Fohet.

menhir couchéThe Menhir Couché – the lying-down menhir, is a famous place as it was a resting place for the transport of coffins between churches and graveyards in the Middle Ages – burial was quite complicated in those days.

But it’s not lying down any more. I’ve seen a report that it was re-erected after God Knows how many centuries of lying flat because the damp was said to be damaging the stone. Another report says that a group of kids did it one night, although, at about 4.5 tonnes weight, I’d be intrigued to know how they managed it.

One thing is certain though – it’s been re-erected in the wrong place because there is nothing at all emanating from it in the way of rays. It produces quite a sterile atmosphere today.

lac d'aydat puy de dome franceNext stop was to have been the Lac d’Aydat, there down in the valley with the Puy de Dome as a backdrop.

But that was a big mistake. A really hot Sunday in midsummer just two days before a Bank Holiday, and the whole place was crowded out with people. it was horrible.

And so I reckoned that I had done enough researching for the radio, and came home. I’ve enough stuff now for four or five months’ worth of tourist programmes and I’m already going to amend a few things that I’ve prepared.

Saturday 11th July 2015 – I’M NOT THERE

Well, not all there anyway, but that should come as no surprise to anyone. After spending a few weeks reading this rubbish, you should have come to that conclusion yourselves.

celtic folk festival hotel de la providence et de la poste besse puy de dome franceThis is where I am, at the Hotel de la Providence et de la Poste in Besse, down at the southern end of the département. And you’ll notice that I have my own personal entertainment, with a Celtic folk band right underneath my window.

It certainly was Providence that brought me to the Hotel de la Providence et de la Poste and no mistake. I’m here in my little room with shower and facilities and this is where I’ll stay until tomorrow morning, for I’m on my travels again.

restaurant le bessoi besse puy de dome franceAnd this is where I had my tea tonight, at the restaurant le bessoi in the medieval centre. And I have something interesting to report about the place, namely …
Our Hero – “could I have the ‘salade végétarienne’ but without the cheese please?”
Serving Wench – “why don’t you want the cheese?”
OH – “I don’t eat animal products”
SW – “well, I’m not sure what I could offer you instead – an egg is no good, is it?”
OH – “I could have a double helping of mushrooms”
SW – “that’s a good idea – and I’ll bring you a pile of bread too”.
And she did!
That’s the first time that that has ever happened to me in France. What a surprise! Things must be looking up!

So what am I up to then?

The answer is that Liz is off on holiday and needed running to the airport at Limoges. And seeing as I’ll be needing a hand to do the plumbing when I come back from Canada and Terry will be the most likely candidate, I need to repay the favour.

I’d have done it anyway without a second thought, but anyway, there we were, at 09:45, off towards Limoges. And I’d been up since 07:00 too, long before the alarm, and that’s not something that happens every day.

caliburn D 941 la creuze franceAnd here we are – or, rather, Caliburn and Strawberry Moose at our lunch stop somewhere on the D941 in the Creuze on the way back. We’d stopped at a Casino supermarket and bought a few things, and so we stopped to have lunch.

And, if the truth is known, I had a little doze too. after all, it was quite an early start and it was by now quite late, as well as having been a hectic day.

On the way back I had resolved to go to Olloix. This is a town that we are covering in the Radio Anglais travel and tourism sector.

We’re ready to leave but there is a variety of roads from which to choose and I couldn’t make up my mind. Consequently, I resolved to have a wander down there and decide upon that for myself.

chateau de murol puy de dome franceOne road took me past the Chateau de Murol. This is a 12th-Century chateau that was in the hands of the noble d’Estaing family, and for that reason it was spared from destruction by Richelieu when all of the other fortifications in the Auvergne were dismantled.

It escaped being ravaged during the Revolution because it was being used as a prison at the time, and after years of neglect, there was enough left in 1889 for it to be classed as one of the very first Historic monuments in France.

belfry belfroi besse puy de dome franceHere, I saw a signpost for the small town of Besse.

That’s an early Medieval walled city that at one time was quite rich. But it lost its fortifications (except the Belfry) under Richelieu and later during the revolution and, with the railways by-passing the town by miles, it fell into decay.

However, the opening up of the area for skiing in the 20s and 30s saw something of a resurgence and the town has recovered a little of its former pride, although there’s still a lot to do.

So tomorrow I’ll go back to Murol for a prowl around and then retrace my steps to Olloix to see what gives around there.