Tag Archives: arctic circle

Monday 8th July 2019 – I DIDN’T EVEN …

… know whether I was right or not last night, because I went straight to bed. And fell asleep in the middle of a Fu Manchu film.

Right through to about 05:20 too, which is pretty unusual. So when the alarm went off at 06:00 I was out of bed quite promptly.

Remembering my medicine for once, I went out to take a couple of early-morning photos. We were off the island of Grimsey, 40 or so kms off the Iceland mainland and half in the Arctic Circle.

A very early breakfast and I went to put on my cold weather gear. There are limits on the number of people allowed onshore at any one time so half of us, me included, were going for a ride in a zodiac first.

We saw the basalt columns and the stratified lava layers, and also puffins. There’s a big puffin colony on the island. One of them even performed a dance for me. There were several birds in nests jealously guarding their chicks.

Once we were allowed to land, I took a couple of photos of the harbour and the boats, and then we went for a walk out past the airport. Strawberry Moose came with me and he posed on the marker where the Arctic Circle crosses the land mass.

On our way back we passed another colony of puffins, one of whom had a load of sand eels in his beak. Or so it seemed at first, but on closer inspection it appeared to be its beard.

Back on board ship I had another relax and then it was lunch. Yet another buffet again today, and delicious it all was.

As we left the harbour I noticed a ship in the distance heading our way, so I set out down to the bow to photograph it. But I bumped into the guy who did the presentation yesterday on the Norse. I asked him a couple of questions about his presentation because there were certain things about which I disagreed.

And by the time that I had finished, not only had the other boat gone past, but it was in the harbour and out of sight. Instead I attended a presentation on polar bears in Iceland. And I still disagreed with the previous presenter

Later, we docked at Siglufjördur. This was formerly one of the biggest towns in Iceland but was badly affected by the collapse of the herring industry in the 1960s. At one time, 20% of Iceland’s exports was in herring and herring products from here.

Much of the old infrastructure had been abandoned but a couple of local teachers had collected what they could and restored it, and opened a museum in the old abandoned buildings. We were all invited to see how the herring fishery was back 100 or so years ago.

But aren’t people funny? I’d positioned Strawberry Moose at the wheel of an old trawler and stepped back to take a photo of him. And as I was stepping back, someone pushed right in front of me and climbed into the wheelhouse, obstructing my view and almost knocking His Nibs off his perch.

The old workshop and mechanics’ room was so interesting that I was almost the last person back on board. But I’d been delayed by a moment of high amusement. There was a kiddies’ bouncing castle thing with a pile of kids on it. A girl of about 8 was showing off, bouncing down onto her derriere and back to her feet. An older girl, about 10 or 11 or so, thought that she could do it so she bounced down onto her derriere and bounced right off the mattress into the bushes.

But one thing that I do have to say, and that is that on board our ship is an ancient guy who needs to go everywhere with one of these wheeled walkframes. It’s a totally unsuitable arrangement for life on board a ship, as you can imagine and it’s even worse on land, where conditions are even more difficult.

He set off with his walkframe to visit the museum, which is a good couple of kilometres from the docks, and as you might expect, gave out along the way. He struggled into the museum but they had to send a car to fetch him back to the ship.

This is really rather thoughtless of him, of the people with him and the people who run the operation. A certain level of mobility must surely be an absolute requirement on a voyage like this.

Tea tonight was another buffet and I almost ate the wrong meal. There was a vegetable curry so I helped myself to a good portion, only to find out that it had cream in it, and there was a special supply for me.

Later on, we were entertained by an Icelandic folk group playing all kinds of traditional airs. Not my cup of tea but I stayed and watched nevertheless.

Well, almost, because near the end a big trawler in a neighbouring berth set out to sea so I went outside and photographed it.

Now it’s another early night, and I can’t say that I’m sorry. I’m exhausted after my two long walks and it’s another busy day tomorrow.

Sunday 7th July 2019 – HAVING TAKEN …

… advantage of my early night, such as it was, I awoke at about 04:15 or something and had to make a trip down the corridor. And to find my dictaphone because I had forgotten to put it to hand. This kind of thing defeats the whole purpose of having an early night. I don’t have too many of them and I don’t seem to be able to take advantage of them at all.

I suppose that I must have gone back to sleep eventually because the alarm awoke me at 06:00 and I leapt out of bed with something rather less than the usual energy. Up on deck taking a few photos and wandering into breakfast, I was halfway through my muesli before I realised that I had once again forgotten my medication.

Our luck was in too, for the captain came to join us and we had a lengthy chat.

We were right down the end of a very spectacular fjord and ahead of us was an equally spectacular waterfall, the highest in Iceland and known as Dynjandi. That was our destination for the morning.

Having been first off the ship yesterday, we were last off today so we had plenty of time to watch them loading up the zodiacs and preparing the kayaks for those who had reserved that option.

The ride out was incredibly smooth, due in no small measure to the sheltered location and we arrived at the shore without even a hint of spray and dampness. And divesting ourselves of our warm clothing and wellingtons, we headed off.

It was a stiff, steep tough climb up to the waterfall with plenty of stops for breath for the less-fit members of our party, but most of us made it to the top of the path at the foot of the falls, passing several smaller cascades on the way. Some even made it higher still by scrambling over the damp rocks but in my case discretion was the better part of valour in my state of health.

Strawberry Moose made it up there too and he had a great time, being photographed on several occasions and by many people.too. His fame is spreading.

After a lengthy pause for a rest and good look around, we descended. And that wasn’t as easy as it might have sounded because the path was steep and there were plenty of loose stones about.

Back on the ship I headed for a nice hot shower and to wash my clothes. They are now nice and clean, as am I and it really was beautiful in there.

After lunch there were several lectures. I attended the one about the Norse (not the Vikings as our lecturer insisted on calling them) but it was one of these brief shallow discussions with much glossed over and several opinions that don’t accord with more informed thought. All in all, I was somewhat disappointed.

A little later on I felt a wave of fatigue creep over me so seeing as there wasn’t all that much going on, I retired to my cabin. 90 or so minutes I was there, and I actually dozed off for about 20 of them. But I was quite comfortable and for the want of anything better to do, I stayed in bed until we were called for the briefing for tomorrow’s events.

At tea we were joined by the host of our expedition and we had a lengthy chat about Sable Island off the coast of Nova Scotia. And while we were so engaged, a voice came over the tannoy to inform us that we had now crossed beyond the Arctic Circle.

Later there was a party and dancing with social games and so on. But I don’t do this North American happy-clappy stuff so I retired to the upstairs lounge where there’s a power point and I did some work.

But I’m not going to be here long. Even though I had a lengthy repose this afternoon I’m pretty tired and we do have an early start tomorrow. I’ll go to bed and watch a film. That’s almost guaranteed to make me fall asleep. But things are so inverted just recently that I’ll probably still be awake at 06:00.

No point in waiting for the sunset because it’s overcast and tying its best to rain, as I expected. I’ll see nothing whatever out there this evening.