Category Archives: Nerina Hall

Friday 2nd November 2018 – WHAT A BEAUTIFUL …

agon coutainville granville manche normandy france… evening today.

And what first drew my attention to it was the sunlight reflecting off the windows at Agon-Coutainville, about 30 kilometres away across the bay.

And this photo was taken with the 18-105mm lens, and hand-held too. It’s not come out too badly either. And in case you are wondering, the Nikon D3000 camera.

agon coutainville granville manche normandy franceHere’s a similar photo taken at lunchtime with the Nikon D3000 and the 70-300mm zoom\telephoto lens.

After its exertions last night when the storm whipped the set-up off the concrete bunker, I gave it a good going-over this morning to see what the damage might be.

And much to my surprise, not only is there no visible damage, everything seems to work just as it is supposed to. It must be more robust than I was expecting – and certainly more robust than the old Nikon D5000.

agon coutainville granville manche normandy franceSo while you admire a few more cropped and enlarged photos of the coast out past Agon-Coutainville (and if you think that they are blurred, they are cropped and enlarged segments out of a photo taken at a distance of 30kms), I can tell you a little about the morning.

Once again, the body clock works in spades as there I was, wide awake at 05:59 precisely (because I checked). One minute before the alarm was due to go off.

But badger that for a game of soldiers. I’d decided to have an extended break (to reimburse myself for my early Sunday), turned over and went back to sleep.

agon coutainville granville manche normandy france10:25 is a much more respectable time to haul myself out of the stinking pit.

And a breakfast at 11:15 is a very bourgeois way of starting the day in a relaxed and leisurely fashion.

All of this sleep had given me plenty of time to go off on a nocturnal ramble or two. And much to my surprise I could remember quite a lot of it, although I’m sure that there was so much more to be going on with.

First off, I’d been on my holidays again and we had had a delay, just like when we were off to the Arctic. There were 50 of us and we were being taken around to some temporary accommodation that had been found for us. And it ended up that we were being lodged in different log cabin or garden sheds, depending upon the class of accommodation that we had booked on the holiday. I trailed along behind everyone else who was given some higher-class cabins and ended up in a cheap garden shed. Seeing as it was in a warehouse it wasn’t too bad and I wasn’t too disappointed.
This bore quite a resemblance to a conversation that I had the other night with Alison, as well as another reminiscence about my legendary trip to the Far North.
Later on, I was doing my Sherlock Holmes impressions back in Victorian times, with my sidekick and a police inspector. We were trying to work out how someone had been shot and murdered in a house where the only other occupant of the house was visibly not involved with anything. It was a house in some kind of upmarket terrace with front gardens with brick walls and gateposts with ornamental pillars. It suddenly occurred to me how it happened and I went off to rig up a system to prove my point. A shotgun wired to the door with a time delay worked by a set of pulleys would blast anyone coming through the doorway a couple of seconds after opening the front door.
And sometime during the night Nerina put in an appearance. It’s a long time since she’s come to visit me, isn’t it?

donville les bains manche normandy franceAnd while you admire the photo of the beach at Donville-les-Bains and the miserable place where I looked at an apartment, then this morning (or what was left of it) I attacked a few more of the outstanding photographs.

This marathon session, which took me almost right up until tea-time (with a few interruptions) means that I’m now up to date as far back as a week ago.

You can see the efforts by going here and working forward.

ferry ile de chausey granville manche normandy franceWith having had a late start this morning, I ended up having a rather late lunch.

And it was such a beautiful afternoon that I made my butties and went out to sit on my wall overlooking the harbour.

No lizards unfortunately – I think that they have gone into hibernation – but there were lots of other things about.

ferry ile de chausey granville manche normandy franceOne of the Ile de Chausey ferries was leaving harbour and heading off out to sea.

Not to the island by the look of things, but probably a five-bob trip around the bay for sightseers – unless it’s a private charter because it didn’t seem to be going along any route that I recognised.

But this was when I tried out the zoom/telephoto lens to check that it was working. That’s miles out into the bay near Jullouville

boulevard des amiraux granvillais granville manche normandy franceI had a few more goes with the zoom/telephoto lens to make sure that it wasn’t just a one-off success.

Thats the Boulevard des Amiraux Granvillais with the climb up to the Roche Gauthier and the blocks of flats up on the skyline.

There doesn’t seem to be much wrong with this photograph

st helier channel islands granville manche normandy franceAnd to underline everything, round on the other side of the Pointe du Roc, the weather was even clearer.

Jersey stood out clearer than I have ever seen it and so I took a photo of the island with the zoom/telephone lens.

Hand-held again – no tripod. And I cropped out a couple of small sections of the photos and enlarged them to see what kind of results they would give.

st helier channel islands granville manche normandy franceAnd if you remember from the other day when I took a few photographs of St Helier and enlarged them, then if anything these today have come out even better than those previously.

St Helier has certainly come out more clearly and more distinctly than it ever has done before.

And in case you have forgotten, that’s about 54 kilometres away from where I’m standing.

Ingrid rang me up this afternoon and we had quite a lengthy chat. So much so that it was rather late when I went for my afternoon walk.

world war 1 exhibition granville manche normandy franceAt lunchtime someone had asked me the directions to an exhibition on the Granville soldiers in World War I

I didn’t know where it was but I made a few unofficial enquiries and managed to track it down – in the public rooms at the back here.

And one of the things that impressed me – or should I say “depressed” me was the fact while there were those who were honoured as being tué à l’ennemie, those who died of illness or disease in the army were treated less honourably, and those who were taken prisoner were treated little better than deserters.

One prisoner who escaped and made his way back to his unit via the Netherlands and the UK was treated as a spy or collaborator.

sunset granville manche normandy franceBy now, it was quite late, and as I went outside I noticed the crowds gazing out to sea in the direction of the Ile de Chausey.

We were having yet another beautiful sunset this evening. The good day was drawing to a perfect climax. It’s been quite a while since we’ve had such a nice evening.

Apart from that, there wasn’t much else going on and I completed my walk without any further interruption.

Tea was a vegan burger with vegetables, and then I went off for a walk around the headland.

And what a beautiful evening it was too. Not a cloud in the sky, but thousands of stars clearly visible. Just like back in the Auvergne.

So I’ll leave you with a few more photos. I’m off to bed.

ile de chausey ferry granville manche normandy france
One of the ferries for the Ile de Chausey

canoe english channel granville manche normandy france
Canoeing in the sea off the Pointe du Roc


donville les bains granville manche normandy franceA cropped and enlarged section from a previous photo


breville sur mer granville manche normandy franceA cropped and enlarged section from a previous photo showing Breville sur Mer


pointe du roc granville manche normandy franceA bit more of a beautiful sunset


Thursday 11th October 2018 – I’VE BEEN OUT …

cabourg calvados normandy france… today,

Josée fancied a drive out to sit on a beach and was attracted by the sound of Cabourg, the summer home of Marcel Proust at the turn of the 20th Century.

So boldly going where I don’t ever recall having been before but I bet you any money that I have, because at one time or another either with Shearings or with Nerina I’ve worked my way along the whole coast of Northern France, for as Proust himself once famously said, “remembrance of things past is not necessarily the remembrance of things as they were”.

Thus Caliburn, Josée and I set off for the seaside.

Much to my amazement, I had a reasonably comfortable sleep last night and if I did go anywhere on my travels I really don’t remember. But whztever, I was up early, medicated and attacking the web pages for my voyage on the Good Ship Ve … errr … Ocean Endeavour long before Josée had even shown a leg.

As a reslt of my new-found energy I now have two amended pages – one web page with lots of stuff on it and another oage which is day two of my blog which although had been published a while back, now has some photos on it..

After breakfast Josée had the idea of going to sample the local products such as cheese, sausage and the like. Of course, she won’t find any of that around here in my apartment so we duly set sail into the town.

A rather large carrier bag and a coffee later, we found ourselves back in the apartment making butties for the route.

noah ark villedieu les poeles manche normandy franceIt’s about a two-hour drive to Cabourg (and more if you go through the centre of Caen, if you stop to do a little shopping and also if you stop for a bathroom)

And at one of the places where we stopped for a comfort break, we found that our biblical friend Noah was also there making a comfort break too.

I couldn’t resist taking a photograph to prove that he had been there.

As a result of all of this it was about 15:30 that we arrived in Cabourg.

trotting horses exercising plage de cabourg beach normandy franceAs the sky clouded over we ate our rather late lunch on the beach watching the horses and carriages exercising.

There’s a race track not too far from here and it seems as if trotting is quite the thing there judging by how they were exercising the horses today.

Wet sand is pretty good for exercise because it builds up the muscles of the horses and when they run on dry sand they have much more physical strength at their disposal.

josée constant plage de cabourg beach franceAfter lunch Josée decided to go for a paddle in the sea.

Of course it’s probably far warmer than where I last put my feet in the sea – at Etah in Greenland about 1300 kms from the North Pole, but nevertheless I stayed on dry land and watched her enjoy herself.

She told me that it was quite warm in there (comparatively speaking but of course she is from Québec) but I’ll take her word for that.

brittany ferries ouistreham caen portsmouth normandy franceI was far more interested in the activities down the coast.

We aren’t all that far from Ouistreham which is the ferry port for Caen and there are some big ships that sail out of there on their way to the UK.

There was one in the port when we arrived but at 16:30 flat it took off and set sail. I took a good photo of it, and also a good photograph of a seagull who decided to come and join in the fun.

cabourg houlgate calvados normandy franceTHere was still time to take one or two more photos of the area.

The towns down along the coast looked as if they might be likely subjects and while Le Havre, although well visible, was too fr away to come out well, the seaside resort of Houlgate didn’t have the same issues.

That has come out quite well despite the weather conditions because by now it was starting to rain.

It rained almost as far as Caen but then we were stuck in a traffic queue. That took a while to clear so we were later than anticipated. And we had the usual issue at the toll on the autoroute where they wanted to charge me for Class 2 instead of Class 1.

Back here it had been a beautiful day with blue sky so Josée went fpr a walk in the evening twilight while I attacked a few more things to do. And then we had tea.

Regular readers of this rubbish will recall that in 2012 I had been to a place in Québec called Harrington Harbour and I had spoken about a film that had been made there.

Josée actually knew the film so we found it on the internet and we sat down and watched most of it until she retired. And I quite enjoyed it, as well as recognising many places that I remembered.

But there was one thing that struck me about the film.

The “Doctor Lewis” is from Montreal and when he is installed in what is easily the best house on the island, he is heard to complain to his girlfriend about how primitive and shabby it is.

What this is implying is that the 90% of all Canadian citizens, those who live withing 50 miles of the US border, don’t have the least idea about the quality of life out on the Bas Cote-Nord – the “Forgotten Coast” – never mind places like Resolute, Grise fiord and Pond Inlet.

And if that’s the case, they should be thoroughly ashamed of themselves

brittany ferries ouistreham caen portsmouth normandy france
brittany ferries ouistreham caen portsmouth normandy france

josée constant plage de cabourg beach france
josée plage de cabourg beach france

josée constant plage de cabourg beach france
josée plage de cabourg beach france

josée constant plage de cabourg beach france
josée plage de cabourg beach france

josée constant plage de cabourg beach france
josée plage de cabourg beach france

josée constant plage de cabourg beach france
josée plage de cabourg beach france

josée constant plage de cabourg beach france
josée plage de cabourg beach france

naval patrol vessel plage de cabourg beach france
naval patrol vessel plage de cabourg beach france

trotting horses exercising plage de cabourg beach normandy france
trotting horses exercising plage de cabourg beach normandy france

trotting horses exercising plage de cabourg beach normandy france
trotting horses exercising plage de cabourg beach normandy france

Friday 28th September 2018 – BANE OF BRITAIN …

… strikes again!

And in spades too. The kind of thing that only I can do, and I’m pretty good at it, having had years of practice.

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves right now. Retournons à nos moutons as they say around here.

Having extolled the virtues of a really good night’s sleep yesterday we returned to our customary habits by being wide awake at 01:45, for a reason that I can’t fathom, save as to say that it disturbed me.

From there on in I drifted in and out of sleep until the alarm went off. And then I dashed out of bed because I wanted to see Hannah. It’s homecoming weekend at St F-X so she’s off to Antigonish to meet up with her former colleagues and do a little celebrating.

And quite right too. It’s a kind of end of a long goodbye to an important period in her life. She’s graduated (with distinction, I’m proud to say) from the best University in Canada with enough certificates to cover her bedroom wall and she’s ready to move on into the big wide world.

But she needs to say goodbye in this one before she goes.

She’s like a typical young University graduate – torn between home and family on one side and what the big wide world has to offer on the other side, and so why make your own mistakes when you can listen to the mistakes that other people have made?

And as a result we had a good chat for several hours. After all, no-one has made as many mistakes in their life as I have in mine.

I hadn’t bought her a graduation present because, after all, what do I know about people’s tastes? I gave her some cash and told her to choose a really nice piece of jewellery that she likes, and wear it for me. And then I bunged her a bit more cash to go and have a party.

With having had a bad night, I was ready to go back to bed for half an hour or so. And that turned out to be a couple of hours or so. I still can’t shake off this health issue. I might be feeling better than i was earlier in the week, but that’s a long way from saying that I’m well.

Once I was back in the Land of the Living I had a shower, packed my suitcase and had a very late lunch. Following which I leapt aboard Strider and we went down to the office.

Zoe was there, telling us about her wedding plans. She’s Rachel’s eldest daughter and decided a few years ago to make her own way in the world. She’s finding it tough going and struggling along, and this wedding is proving to be quite a problem.

She’s seen a wedding dress that she absolutely loves and which is apparently beautiful, but she has to pay a 50% deposit to secure it and have the fitting done, and she can’t rustle up the money.

No girl should ever have to settle for second-best on the most important day in her life (a comment which will have made Nerina’s eyes pop out on stalks wondering how she managed to end up with me) and so I gave her her wedding present in advance. Tomorrow she can go and sign up for her dress.

There were a few of us down there this afternoon, with people coming and going, and we ended up having quite a chat.

So much so that we were down there long after closing time, which was just as well because quite late on, someone phoned up with a speculative enquiry about tyres to solve a crisis, and we could actually help out.

Tea was, basically, everything that was left over from earlier in the week and you would be surprised at how nice you can make stuff like that when you have a good imagination and some culinary talent. I certainly enjoyed mine!

Time to hit the road now and so I said goodbye to Darren and Amber. And not wishing to leave Amber out, I slipped her a little present so that she could go shopping. I also had a little word or two in her ear about something or other.

Rachel and I trundled off to Florenceville and the Coach Atlantic bus. Plenty of time to wait and so I started to search my pockets to see what I had forgotten to leave behind.

I found the pot of glue that Darren had given me to look after, and then I boarded the bus.

We stopped at quite a few places along the route, and at the coffee pause at Edmundston I realised that I hadn’t continued the search of my pockets.

And so I did – and found the keys to Strider and Rachel’s spare front door key.

D’ohhhh! That’s really the kind of thing that only I can do, isn’t it?

At Rivieère-du-Loup where I change for the Orleans Express bus to Montreal, I had a chat with the Coach Atlantic driver. She’s doing the return to Moncton tomorrow afternoon and, as luck would have it, is having to call at Florenceville on her way down.

So I negotiated an envelope from the guy in the ticket office, put the keys inside and she dropped it on the dashboard of her bus.

And I settled down ready for the next stage of my journey.

Thursday 6th September 2018 – DESPITE MY …

*************** THE IMAGES ***************

There are over 3,000 of them and due to the deficiencies of the equipment they all need a greater or lesser amount of post-work. And so you won’t get to see them for a while.

You’ll need to wait til I return home and get into my studio and start to go through them. And it will be a long wait. But I’ll keep you informed after I return.
***************

… rather late night last night looking at the midnight sun, I was still awake before the alarm went off. And much to my surprise, I find that I’m starting to rely on this and include it in my timetable, and that’s something that will never do because in the long run it’s all going to end in tears.

However, I did stay in bed until the alarm went off, and then I was straight out and on deck with the crowds who were also up there early. Our captain had managed to find the pack-ice. My fellow-voyagers were all trying to see the wildlife but as for me, it’s not my thing at all, unless it’s a polar bear of course.

I’m much more interested in the landscape and the historical aspect of it all. But the land was rather far away and swathed in fog, and we’ve yet to touch on the historical aspect, at least from my own point of view.

It was at this point that I realised that I hadn’t had my medication and so I went back down to my cabin.

Breakfast was the usual. Bran flakes with raisins and fruit, with toast, coffee and orange juice. And then I made an appointment to see the Cruise Director about an issue that has suddenly developed.

I was going to add “unexpectedly” but regular readers of this rubbish that I write will recall the fact that the only thing unexpected about all of this is that it’s taken so long for me to get myself into trouble.

After this, I’ve been keeping a low profile. After all, it’s not like me to court controversy, is it? After all, Henry Hudson was cast adrift by his colleagues and subsequently lost on an Arctic voyage after one such confrontation.

Back on the ice and watching the wildlife. At least – they were. And later we were all given a lecture on bird-watching. I had plenty of those from Nerina when I was married, as you can imagine. But again, I wasn’t all that interested. The only birds that I am likely to be interested in watching aren’t likely to be found in the Lancaster Sound.

Later, there was a talk on navigating the North-West Passage. I was really looking forward to this but once again, I was confounded. Rather than a discussion on McClure and Franklin, with maybe Amundsen thrown in for good measure, we had someone else from the staff going on an ego-trip about how he once sailed around the passage in a catamaran.

I really don’t know where they find these people. But the ordinary punters quite like it. So I suppose that we have to cater for them. After all, they are in the majority.

But I’m not here to listen to that, as you know. I’m all out to hear how the ancient explorers did it, and then to go out and do it with them.

We took a diversion up Burnett Inlet to have a look at what wildlife we might see up there.

Someone saw a few walruses, and, well, I suppose that they were once I magnified the image.

Someone else saw a dozen or so musk-oxen on the slope leading up to the glacier. And all that I can say is that I’ll have to take their word for that.

I managed to see the seal though. So at least that’s something. It would have been nice to see a polar bear stalking him but I suppose that that’s a luxury I’ll have to do without.

We settled down for lunch but we weren’t there long. The cry went up “beluga whales on the port bow” so we had another “Gold Strike at Bear Creek” moment as everyone dashed outside.

Quite frankly, I wouldn’t recognise a beluga whale if I were to trip over one on my doorstep, so I didn’t really know what I was shooting at. But later on and the end of the evening, several things that I had photographed that I thought were ice – floes are in fact the aforementioned. So how about that?

Of course, Vera Lynn would have no such difficulty. As everyone knows, she was once a cook on a whaler up her, and the legendary cry from the crew of her boat of “Whale Meat Again!” still echoes out across the icebergs… "are you sure about this?" – ed.

As we exited the Inlet, I was convinced that I saw something black on the horizon that I was convinced was a ship. No-one else could see it, even with binoculars, and were of the opinion that I was hallucinating.

But anyway I took a photo of it and with a little judicial “crop and enlarge” I could certainly see something.

And when I enlarged it even more, I’m even more convinced that it’s another ship.

Back to lunch, and I suddenly came over all peculiar. I’d noticed yesterday evening that I was having a shaking fit which I put down to something that I must have eaten, but it certainly erupted while I was trying to finish my lunch. It’s not very often that I have to walk out on a meal but I did today.

Later on we went into Stratton Inlet, and the cry went up “walruses on the starboard bow” so yet another “Gold Strike At Bear Creek” moment as everyone dashed upstairs.

This time I was lucky and actually managed to see them. And I’m glad that I did too, because there were a couple of dozen of them – dominant males, females, and loads of pups splashing around in the water.

There were several workshops going on later in the afternoon. I was torn between the Geography of the North West Passage or the Camera demonstration and lecture, and chose the latter.

To be honest I didn’t really learn much, except that my equipment is total garbage and my technique is even worse. Seeing other people’s gear and the output that they can obtain makes me want to delete all of mine and send them to the recycle bin?

I’m totally demoralised.

The day’s ice report hadn’t come in and so we all went for a sail in the zodiacs. I had the camera and the zoom lens with me and took a few pics, a couple of which came out okay, but still not good enough for what I want.

When we arrived, we were told the bad news. The channel ahead is blocked and we need to retreat to go around another way.

And this is really bad news for me because the four places that I had wanted to see had now all been by-passed. We aren’t going to reach a single one. I’m now totally inconsolable. I may as well get off at the next stop and fly back home for all the good that this trip has done me.

I was reminded of a quote from a certain Lieutenant Skead who accompanied Collinson on his leisurely stroll around the fringes of the ice back in the 1850s. He said An ordinary yachtsman might have taken his craft (there) and his wife and daughters to boot. I’m afraid to think of what we shall do if we meet with difficulty

However, a little bit of research did tell me that in November 2015 our captain had almost sunk the ship in the Antarctic after a rather injudicious encounter with an ice-floe and this had cost the company a considerable amount of money and prestige.

It’s quite apparent therefore that he’s going to be even more cautious whenever he encounters any ice, and that can only be a disastrous thing from our point of view.

All afternoon, I’d been trying to have a crash out as this illness slowly takes hold again. But each time I’ve gone to lie down, and there were dozens of such moments, something else has come up to disturb me. And so it was this evening as I was invited to sit at the top table.

Everyone is supposed to be dressed to impress but badger that for a game of soldiers. I’m here with three tee-shirts, two fleeces, two pairs of trousers and several undies – washing them in the shower as I go along.

Talking of washing clothes, I’d had another bad attack out there on the way back to the ship in the zodiac. Still quite shaky, I went back to my cabin and had a nice hot shower and a clothes-washing session.

They say that you aren’t allowed to wash your clothes yourself, but the small print says quite clearly “with detergent”. I’m using the soap provided in the dispenser. That will keep my clothes going for quite a while.

After tea I came back and started to work on my photos and to write up my notes – constantly being distracted by thing happening outside, like a glorious sunset, a rising crescent moon as thin as a rake and, despite what everyone has been saying, another ship on the far shore.

Not to mention a wonderful Arctic daylight at midnight
“A wonderful Arctic daylight at midnight?”
“I told you not to mention that!”

And there’s already a record that has been chosen that sums up my currently manic-depressive mood. For the last few days I’ve had Colosseum Live going round and round in an endless loop, especially “Skellington” and “Lost Angeles” which somehow seem to be quite appropriate right now.

There’s one bit in “Skellington” about “Make damn sure your reflection can look you in the eye”. Hmmmmm.Quite!

And I’m going to check the binnacle in a moment because there’s something bizarre going on with the way that the ship has been manoeuvring in the last half-hour or so.

Thursday 28th June 2018 – HAVING BOMBED …

lech austria june juin 2018… on Tuesday night with my choice of sleeping accommodation, I can say without any fear of contradiction that I more than made up for it last night.

The issue of the plug for the slow cooker not working is a minor inconvenience really. The rest of it scored a good 11 out of 10 and I’ll be back here again.

I’m not sure who or what awoke me at 04:30 but it was nothing to do with the hotel.

At one moment or another I’d been off on my travels. With a friend of mine (who shall remain nameless) where I was invited to a meal given by a friend of hers. Not long after I’d ordered my meal, the person whose party it was started passing round some literature and seeking orders. It turned out that they were all “Biffers” and this was all about freeing their friends who had been imprisoned. Of course, I had no wish to associate myself with them, so I was all for walking out. But as I’d ordered my meal already, I was wondering if I should go and sit on a separate table. But I didn’t want to embarrass my friend.

lech austria june juin 2018After a shower I did some work on the laptop until breakfast time when I went downstairs to try out the delicious bread.

My landlady’s story was quite interesting. She’d come from Australian a back-packing holiday, run out of money and so had found a job as a chambermaid in Lech. Here, she had met a local boy and the rest is history.

She’d never seen snow before she came here, and neither had her family when they arrived for the wedding. And so, in June, they had a snowstorm on her wedding day.

“A real white wedding”, I told her.

lech austria june juin 2018After I’d finished my work, I went for a walk around the town to see what was going on.

I didn’t manage to make it out there last night and I was keen to take a few photographs to show you what you are missing.

It really is one of the most beautiful places on the planet, and I’d be happy to come to live here permanently.

old car lech austria june juin 2018And not for nothing am I here in Lech this morning. Today is the start of a vintage vehicle rally here in Lech and there are all types of old cars on parade in the town.

Ordinarily, every one of the 50 or so that I saw would have made it onto this page but I really was spoilt for choice. But you’ll have to make do with seeing a select few until I have more time to sit down and expand my notes.

After all, it’s not very easy doing this kind of thing when you are limited to irregular hotel internet connections and timed-out motorway service providers.

strawberry moose lech austria june juin 2018One thing that we do have to do is to give Strawberry Moose a suitable photo opportunity.

It’s not every day that he visits his favourite town in Europe and so it deserves to be recorded for posterity.

No camping allowed here in Lech, but that’s not a problem for him, although it might explain why Kenneth Williams and Hugh Paddick never visited the area.

strawberry moose der lecher lech austria june juin 2018His Nibs has only been here for 12 hours or so, but he’s already opened his own taxi business as you can see. It didn’t take him long to get his feet firmly planted under the table here.

Set up for life with a vehicle like this.

Lech, by the way, is twinned with the town of Beaver Creek in the USA, and you can make of that what you like.

Despite having come here on a few previous occasions, I’d never been right through and out of the other side of the town.

And with the urging of the Lady Who Lives In The SatNav, I set off northwards.

hochtannberg pass tyrol austria june juin 2018A little diversion was called for though.

There’s a back road that goes out to Bregenz (and had I known how this story was to unfold I’d have gone out that way) where there’s a mountain pass, the Hochtannberg Pass at 1675 metres, that I hadn’t climbed before.

There are dozens of photos going back to the 70s of all kinds of various vehicles photographed on the top of various mountain passes, and we are putting together a little collection of Caliburn there too.

But there wasn’t any parking here to make a really good photograph of Caliburn. A quick flash at the side of the road in between the traffic had to suffice.

hochtannberg pass tyrol austria june juin 2018But the view westwards was quite impressive too. And you can see what a magnificent area this is and why I was so happy to come here, even though the clouds were closing in rapidly.

It was round about here that I started to have the feeling that it wasn’t going to be my day.

And as I retraced my steps in the general direction of Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Oberammergau, a few drops of rain started to fall on the windscreen.

By the time I reached the German border the torrential rain was lashing down on everything in sight.

Considering the tropical weather that we had been having up to that point on this journey, this was quite a surprise. It put paid to any plans that I had to go sightseeing.

kloster ettal abbey germany june juin 2018There was however a small town along the route that was crammed full of tourists and it was here that I stopped to pick up some bread.

But do you know – I forgot to make a note of where I was so I can’t tell you anything about it.

I shall have to do some more research in due course when I update this page.

For lunch, I pulled over onto a layby at the side of the road. And here, shame as it is to say it, I fell asleep for a while. I’m not doing too well am I, these days?

This made me run quite late and what with all of the roadworks on the A95 (I decided to fahr’n fahr’n fahr’n down the autobahn after all in an attempt to make up the time) I hit Munich just in time for the start of the rush hour.

And having come from the south, I ended up straight in the city centre too. It was this point that I’d wished that I had come in from Bregenz on the south-west and hit the ring road instead.

As a result, the last 19kms of my journey took me 90 minutes and had I not performed a marvellous “taxi-driver’s creep” on a bright red Audi estate, much to my pleasure and his chagrin (he had a beautiful set of motor horns), I would probably be still stuck in Munich right now.

But it seems that The lady Who Lives In The Satnav doesn’t understand grade-separated junctions. A couple of times now she’s wanted me to turn right onto a road that’s 300 feet below the viaduct over which I’m driving. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

With me being so late, I’d missed the vegan shop around the corner from Hans so tea ended up being chips and salad from the beer garden next door.

Later that evening, Hans (who runs a whisky importing business) was having a tasting evening with 10 invited guests.

Everyone seemed to be having a really good time which was just as well. For me, I don’t drink alcohol and even when I did I couldn’t abide the smell, never mind the taste, of the stuff.

But good luck to those who do.

And so with the place smelling like a Babylonian boozer’s bedroom, I settled down for the night on one of the most comfortable sofas in the world.

And here I intend to sleep right through until I awaken.

Wednesday 27th June 2018 – WHAT A DREADFUL …

… night that was!

It was stifling hot in that bedroom so I had opened all of the windows. And not long after going to be I was joined by a moth and a mosquito. That put paid to any hope that I might have had about a decent night’s sleep.

No breakfast at the hotel either, so I had another shower and then my laptop decided to crash. It was clearly not going to be my day.

Having sorted myself out I took my stuff downstairs and handed in the key, to find the proprietor and her friend tucking into a hearty meal. “Kein frühstuck” indeed.

All in all, what with one thing and another, I wasn’t very impressed. But you can’t win a coconut every time and I’ve had some pretty good deals in the past.

police in streets koppigen switzerland june juin 2018Outside, all of the streets were full of policemen. I’m not sure why, unless they had heard that I was in the vicinity.

Apparently it is something to do with the roadworks and they are directing the traffic.

But all of Switzerland’s roads seem to be undergoing repair right now. It’s like one huge building site and there’s no end to it.

The road to Zurich was fairly rapid for a change and it didn’t take long for me to arrive there. But driving around it took me much longer than it might have done. It’s changed considerably over the last 30 years and the last time that I was here it was dark.

Another thing that they have a habit of doing is putting the main destinations on the “motorway” road signs and only the small villages on the ordinary road signs. And when you only have a small-scale atlas, it doesn’t help.

No point in asking The Lady Who Lives In The Satnav. She doesn’t recognise Swiss Motorways as being toll roads and doesn’t understand the concept of “avoid all motorways”.

Winterthur was easy to negotiate, although people there don’t understand the idea of roundabouts, and I had not one, not two but three close encounters at various times.

At St Gallen, I gave up. No idea of the village on the Swiss side of the border and “Bregenz” was only advertised by the motorway, so I bit the bullet and went that way.

I dodged off at the exit before the border, and luckily there were no police patrols checking for motorway toll stickers, and crossed into Austria at Lustenau.

Diesel was only €1:21 at Lustenau so I fuelled up Caliburn. I also fuelled up myself – Austrian bread is nothing like as good as German bread but a couple of bread rolls with my salad and that was me organised.

Through Feldkirch and onto the S16 eastwards, and I took a little diversion.

The Arlberg Pass has always been my preferred destination over the Alps but there’s another pass over the mountains between Partenen and Tschafein that I had never taken. So boldly going where the hand of man had never set foot, Caliburn and I set off.

silbertal austria june juin 2018But somewhere stuck up a blind allet is the little village of Silbertal.

Somewhere else that I had never visited before today, and it’s one of those villages that in a country that had 99 out of the 100 prettiest villages in the world, Silbertal is well in the Top 10.

Unfortunately parking was an issue here, as was time, so I didn’t have the opportunity for a good look around.

schruns tyrol austria june juin 2018At Schruns, where I was trying to find a place to stop to take a couple of photographs, I nearly squidged a pedestrian who couldn’t make up her mind whether to cross the street or not.

Having both dillied and dallied, we decided to advance at exactly the same moment.

But eventually I found a parking space and could whip out the Nikon and show you some of the beautiful South Tyrolean scenery.

fc schruns austria football june juin 2018I’d parked up on the car park of the local football club, FC Schruns, and seeing as the ground was open, I went for a wander inside to see what was happening.

Certainly an improvement on many French football grounds that I had visited, although when I saw the prices for a season ticket for the forthcoming season’s matches, I’m surprised that they weren’t playing at Wembley Stadium.

“Somewhat elevated” would have been an understatement.

tschagguns austria june juin 2018Over there, that’s not Schruns but those houses on the side of the hill are in the town of Tschagguns.

I’m not sure how the name of the town should be pronounced, and so I’ll leave you to pronounce that as you see fit.

All I can say is the name sounds very appropriate if you have to carry your heavy shopping up there. You can rule me out of that, no matter how idyllic the view might be.

ski jumping tschagguns austria june juin 2018Tschagguns has a very good claim to fame in the realm of Winter Sports, in that it’s a ski-jumping centre.

Not that you would, of course, expect me to be up there. For me, I’m all in favour of terra firma when it comes to skiing. The more firma, the less terra.

And even so, they can’t be much good up there because even Eddie the Eagle once beat an Austrian ski-jumper.

silvretta pass toll Mautstelle Partenen austria june juin 2018And now I realise why I’ve never come this way before.

Just up there shortly before the head of the Pass is a toll booth. And they expect me to pay €21:50 to pass the next 40 kilometres to Landeck.

Even having negotiated the price down to €15:00 that was still €15:00 more than I was ever intending to pay, so I turned round and retraced my steps.

Maybe it might cost me more in fuel, but it’s the principle of the thing.

arlberg pass st anton austria june juin 2018Now, this is much more like it. I’ve made my way all the way round and this is St Anton at the foot of the Arlberg Pass.

When you see the road up there, that’s been improved considerably since the late 1970s when we used to struggle up there with 47 passengers in lightweight Ford R1114 coaches in the good old days of Salopia.

Caliburn leaps up there of course, as you might expect and one of these days I’ll post a video of the climb.

lech austria june juin 2018Only one town in the whole wide world where Strawberry Moose and I would be right at home, and that’s the town of Lech.

The name is quite appropriate.

Nerina and I first came here on our honeymoon in 1988 in a beat-up old, rusting Ford Cortina estate OCC 883S (which, by the way, was younger than Caliburn is now, although you wouldn’t ever think so).

snow alps lech austria june juin 2018And we so liked the place that we vowed that one day we would come back.This is the second time that I’ve been here since then.

Regular readers of this rubbish will recall that I came here in June 2014 in the snow, although this year, the snow is way up the mountain.

I do wonder sometimes if Nerina ever made it back. Knowing how things pan out, I’ll probably bump into her walking through the streets here tomorrow morning.

lech austria june juin 2018And in case you are thinking that I’m joking, it did once happen in Brussels like that in 1991. Truth is indeed stranger than fiction.

I went to the little guest house where I stayed before but that was closed up and deserted.

Several other places were fully booked but one hotel, although totally deserted like the Marie Celeste, had left its doors open and the internet switched on.

pension kilian lech austria june juin 2018Consequently an on-line booking agency quickly found me a room that was well within my price range only 390 metres from where I was standing, and the Lady WHo Lives In The Satnav did the rest.

So here I am. A nice comfy single room run by an Australian landlady (yes, Australian, not Austrian) but the plugs won’t fit my slow cooker so it’s a scratch tea tonight.

Apart from that, no complaints whatsoever and I’m going to be very comfy here.

I hope.

Thursday 10th May 2018 – I’M BACK HOME

Yes, with Alison being busy I haven’t hung around in Leuven this time. I came straight back on the train today.

But let’s start at the very beginning – a very good place to start, as Julie Andrews tells us.

As for last night’s sleep, that was one of the best yet.

With having had a hard day yesterday I was struggling to keep awake even while I was writing last night’s blog and once I’d finished and had lain down on the bed, that really was that, even though it wasn’t quite 22:00.

And for that reason, when someone knocked on my neighbour’s door at 05:00 to awaken him for work, I didn’t mind at all. For that was the first noise that I had heard all night.

First real noise, that is, because there had been plenty of others during my nocturnal voyages. We started off doing something that involved someone – an accountant from Vancouver – from where I used to work. What was interesting about this was not the voyage itself, but the fact that I awoke from it (although I didn’t) and thought that I had better write it down. And so I did – in a kind of spidery hand that when I looked at it after I had read it, I couldn’t make out a word. But of course I didn’t write it down at all. It’s quite amazing where these nocturnal voyages can take me.
A little later I was with Nerina again. She was in bed and she protested that I had hit her. I explained that there was some animal chasing a squirrel- a squirrel that was covered in fleas and maggots and the like – and the squirrel was trying to take refuge in the bed with her, and so I was preventing it from doing so. But of course you would never convince her of that.

But anyway, I was up with the alarm at 06:20 and went through the usual morning ritual, followed by a nice hot shower. Need to be fresh for my journey back home.

Having nipped out for a baguette, I made my butties for the trip and then made ready to leave. And then having to go back for the hat that I had forgotten.

While I was in the office and seeing as I know my plans (or, rather, Alison’s plans) for the next month, I booked my room. Appointment is on the Thursday so I’ll be arriving on the Wednesday, staying Wednesday, Thursday and Friday night (I’m determined to get to see the railway museum in Schaerbeek) and then back home on the Saturday.

At the station I bought my ticket for Brussels and stepped out of the ticket office to find a Brussels train already at the platform. And so I leapt aboard. And wasn’t that a mistake?

It’s a Bank Holiday in Belgium today and so many people are bridging the gap over to the weekend and having four days by the seaside on the Costa Stella. And the train that I had leapt aboard was the express to Blankenberge. So standing room only, I’m afraid.

But at least I was in Brussels with plenty of time (like two hours) to spare before my train; And the time would have dragged had I not found an abandoned Sudoku book with a couple of games still uncompleted.

tgv gare du midi bruxelles belgiqueUp on the platform I took my … errr … station where the noticeboard indicated that my carriage would stop, but the blasted thing shot past me without stopping and I had to run halfway down one of the longest platforms in Belgium.

It seems that instead of a 16-car unit, it was only an 8-car unit today – the bit that comes down from Amsterdam and Antwerp.

And packed too. It took ages to find my seat and then there was a regular change of companion until we finally settled on a young Dutch girl with a 7-month old baby. That kind of thing does my self-esteem a pile of good, I’ll tell you.

Across Paris with little or no effort at all, and then joining the crowds of people waiting at the Gare Montparnasse, where I ate my butties.

SNCF multiple unit gare de granville manche normandy franceThe train to Granville was heaving too and I had a fit of confusion, taking four attempts to find my seat, disturbing a couple of piles of people in the process.

But eventually I found the correct seat and settled down for the uneventful journey home. So uneventful in fact that I slept for much of the journey home, despite having the headphones on and listening to stuff on the laptop.

All of this travel is clearly getting to me

The walk back up here was likewise uneventful which suited me fine and it didn’t take too long to be back. And I seem to have brought a streaming headcold with me yet again.

And remind me not to travel on a Bank Holiday ever again.

Thursday 3rd May 2018 – NOW THAT’S MORE LIKE IT.

With my recent health issues, I’ve not been setting an alarm in the mornings and sleeping until I awake.

So this morning, instead of the previous 02:30 and 05:00 or whatever it was, it was a glorious 10:10 when I finally left my stinking pit. And if I hadn’t had to go down the corridor for a ride on the porcelain horse I would probably still be there now.

With it being Thursday, it’s my usual day to walk up to LIDL. But with not having eaten all that much just recently, there’s no urgent need for anything so I can have a day off.

There was even time for me last night to go off on my travels. I was back working for Shearings again and ended up with not one but two coaches under my control. One came back on a Saturday and the other came back on a Sunday and the SUnday one particularly needed a lot of cleaning and tidying before it could go back to the depot so I missed the departure of the shuttle service. Going into the office though, I found two credit cards on the floor. I assumed that these were the new fuel cards for the coaches that I had so I picked up the cards and walked out. The next problem was to return the coaches to the depot. I could drive one, but how would I return home? Had I done that with one of them the shuttle coach service on Saturday evening, I could have had a feeder coach back leaving me with just one to deal with. But with two to move and no way of returning home this was going to be complicated. Just then Nerina put in an appearance. She could drive up behind me in the old gold Cortina that we had and bring me home, that would solve one of the problems. And I was thinking that it was a shame that she couldn’t drive a coach otherwise we could take the two coaches both together. But then we would still have the problem of coming home afterwards.

Breakfast was rather late of course, but at least I managed to eat it okay. But with having a late breakfast I eschewed lunch yet again. No point in forcing the food down and I do need to lose some weight, especially after all that I must have eaten in North Africa.

None of the foregoing stopped me from going for my walk this afternoon, where I met Gribouille and his owner. And he (Gribouille) let me pick him up again and give him a stroke, something that apparently he doesn’t allow everyone to do. But he really is a beautiful cat.

hang gliders pointe du roc granville manche normandy franceThere were crowds of people about this afternoon too enjoying the weather. And plenty of these hang-glider people too circling around like vultures overhead.

It’s a good job that they aren’t real vultures though because I wouldn’t appreciate a bird of that size circling around above me – and for a variety of reasons too as I’m sure you can imagine.

motorised hang glider granville manche normandy franceAnd they weren’t the only airborne creatures with which we had to contend today.

There was one of these motorised hang-gliders soaring about overhead, presumably from the airfield alng the coast at Bréhal. It looks marginally safer than being in a hang-glider, I reckon, but you still wouldn’t get me up there in one of those things either.

I’m all in favour of terra firma – in fact, the more firma the less terra.

wedding photography pointe du roc cap lihou granville manche normandy franceAnd that’s not all either.

With it being such a really a delicious day for once, there was a wedding party out on the promontory this afternoon and a wedding photographer was busily engaged about her business.

I just hope that she doesn’t ask them to step back one pace too far, because it could end up being the shortest marriage on record.

As for tea, I did have my veg, vegan sausages and vegan cheese sauce. And it was just as delicious as I was hoping that it would be. But the strawberries are about giving up I reckon. I’ll be lucky if the ones that are left will be good enough to eat tomorrow.

So a really beautiful day – the first time this year that I have had the windows here open. If we are’t very careful, summer may well be acumen in. Lhude sing seagulls, hey?

And now another early night, and once more there will be no alarm. I’ll need an alarm on Saturday to go to the shops of course but I intend to take advantage of the rest of the week. I’m feeling much better and in a day or so I’ll probably be all right.

Or, as right as I will ever be.

Saturday 21st April 2018 – NOW, THAT WAS A LONG …

… day.

My alarm went off at 03:55,followed by a ‘phone call at 04:00 to awaken me.

But I didn’t really need much awakening as, true to form, I had had a disturbed night – just as I usually do when I need to raise myself early.

But I’d still managed to go off on a really long ramble. However, I’m not going to tell you about it and you will thank me for that. You’re probably eating your tea or something.

So alarm at 04:00 and at 04:05 I was tucking in to breakfast. Not a big choice out here (no surprise there of course) and it didn’t take me long to eat. And then I was in my room preparing to depart.

sunrise sahara desert tunisia africa05:00 saw us all pile onto the bus and we set off from town to the Chott-el-Jérid, the big salt lake outside town, deep in the Sahara desert where we waited to see the sun come up.

It was a little chilly at that time of the morning for those of us in just tee-shirts and there was a little breeze. Quite unexpected in the Desert you might think, but it’s a well-known phenomenon that has caught out many a traveller.

The sunrise itself was not as magnificent as watching the sun rise across the Bay of Piraeus in Greece back in 2013 but nevertheless, seeing the sun rise over the Sahara Desert has to be an experience and it was something that I wouldn’t have missed for the world.

place des martyrs douz tunisia africaFrom here we drove on, deeper into the desert and eventually we arrived in the town of Douz – a town known from antiquity as “The Gateway To The Sahara”

We weren’t actually stopping here, just passing through, but at least we went past the famous statue in the Place des Martyrs.

I’m not sure who the martyrs were, or why they were martyred, but there were certainly a few confrontations with Authority here a few years ago that ended up with a couple of people getting a 15-year holiday at the Government’s expense.

old cars peugeout 404 pickup douz tunisia africaWhile we admire the local scenery and the exciting artisanal works of art, let me tell you that had you had come here years ago you would have been amazed at all of the hustle and bustle in the streets.

That’s because Douz was a focal point of the camel trains that worked their way across the various routes of the desert bringing in just about everything from all corners of the World.

There’s still a huge market here, possibly the only relic of those glorious days of commerce, and had we come here on a Thursday, it would have been the market day for camels and donkeys.

And then I could have gone out on my ass.

camels oasis of douz grand erg tunisia africaWe stopped on the outskirts of the town for what was the highlight of the trip.

We were going to visit the Grand Erg – the Sea of Sand that covers the south-western quarter of Tunisia – a trek into the desert, and on a camel too.

That is to say – not all of us on one camel but on one camel each, which is probably just as well.

camels oasis of douz grand erg tunisia africaAnd so having changed into native Touareg dress I leapt aboard my camel, which I named Sopwith, and I was off.

But I got back on again and in company with about 30 others we headed for the interior. 07:00 is the best time to do this because it’s light but not hot, which I can perfectly understand.

Although if this wasn’t hot I don’t know what is and I’m glad that I wasn’t out there at 13:00

camels oasis of douz grand erg tunisia africaIt was a bit of a disappointment in one sense because we were only out for an hour and a half or so.

But on the other hand, I’m glad that it was only an hour and a half and not any longer because I don’t know how Lawrence of Arabia must have managed with four years on the back of a camel.

And now I understand completely just why John Wayne always walked like he did in all of his westerns

camels oasis of douz grand erg tunisia africaBut very bad planning here on my part.

One of our party, with a blonde-haired wife, was offered 26 camels for his wife. “Make it 30” he said “and she’s all yours”. And received a dig in the ribs.

Nevertheless, it made me think that I should have invited Nerina on this journey. I could have made myself a fortune here, particularly with the camel market in the town on a Thursday where I could have cashed out.

camels oasis of douz grand erg tunisia africaAnd that wasn’t the only excitement either.

See the horse ad rider over there on the right of this image? One girl of our party – a youngish blonde – was whisked off on the back of it and was galloped off into the distance at a rapid rate of knots.

“That’s the last we’ll see of her” we said. “She’ll wake up tomorrow morning someone’s harem, yashmak glittering in the breeze”.

And serve her right too

Our route back to the camp took us past the site of where a previous tourist had told his guide that he wasn’t going to leave him a tip for his services.

And then we all dismounted (which pleased me greatly), handed back our Bedouin gear and boarded the bus. And let me tell you that getting on and off a camel is no mean feat either.

I made a quick little excursion back into the desert to grab some sand in a plastic bag that I had brought with me. I mean – it’s not every day that you get to go into the Sahara Desert.

motorcycle pickup oasis of douz tunisia africaBack on the bus we set off for the coast.

And I have seen some interesting vehicles on this voyage that you are never likely to see in Western Europe, like the motorcycle pick-up just here on the roundabout. Plenty of them wandering around in Tunisia and I can think of 100 uses for something like that down on my farm, not that I’ll ever be back there again but that’s another story.

And the silver-grey Renault. You probably won’t have seen one of those either, and I’ll talk about that in a bit.

Djebel Dahar mountains tunisia africaOur guide told us that we were going to go through the Atlas Mountains, but that’s somewhat stretching the truth.

The Atlas Mountains finish just after the border with Algeria and in the north of the Country. The mountains that run down the middle of Tunisia here in the south are part of a chain called the Djebel Dahar.

They may not quite be the Atlas Mountains, but they are spectacular nevertheless.

nomadic herdsman Djebel Dahar mountains tunisia africaAnd it was around here in the foothills of the mountains that we encountered our first real tribes of nomadic Bedouins.

They are still living pretty much as their ancestors did in Biblical days, like this man here out on his ass checking on his herd of goats, sheep and camels would have done 2,000 years ago.

And there were plenty of them, nomads, sheep, goats and camels, trying their best to eke out an existence here in the desert. And It can’t be easy.

artificial terracing Djebel Dahar mountains tunisia africaAs we climbed up into the mountains, at a certain point there was clearly some artificial terracing here where there was some kind of oasis or well.

I was sorely tempted to cry out “Romans” because if anything looked like a Roman vinyard terracing, then this would be it. Facing directly south into the sun.

There was a Roman town – Turris Tamalleni – in the vicinity where the Romans had installed some kind of artificial irrigation system, and vines were known to be an important crop from North Africa.

tamezret tunisiaIt was about 10:00 when we arrived on the edge of a small town called Tamezret.

It’s a Berber village with about 500 people, only a fraction of the population that it would have had in the past as its importance as a caravan halt in the pass through the mountains has long-gone.

However, the village is heaving during the summer because it’s the custom for people who originated or who are descended from dwellers in the village to return here in the middle of August where there is some kind of homecoming festival.

One of the more famous emigrés from this region went to live in Spain, and he became so famous that the Italian compose Rossini wrote an Opera about him – “The Berber of Seville” … "are you sure about this?" – ed

tamezret tunisiaIt has a special claim to fame too in that as well as the original Berber language still being spoken here too, the years are calculated by the original Berber calendar – not the Christian calendar and not the Muslim calendar either as you might otherwise have expected.

So accordingly we are now in the year 2968, and I bet that that’s confusing for some. Particularly considering that just now I mentioned something about going back in time 2,000 years.

zraoua tunisiaAnd how I would have loved to have found the time to have visited the ancient town of Zraoua.

This was formerly one of the most important towns in the region but for one reason or other it’s practically deserted now. It has however survived quite well considering the events that have happened around here in the past, and has been used as the site of several French-language and Arab films.

But that will have to be for another day, if there is one.

dar ayed tamezret tunisiaIt might still be quite early but we had in fact been on the road for about 5 hours already and I for one was certainly ready to … errr … stetch my legs and have a coffee.

So we pulled up at a roadside place called Dar Ayed on the edge of town for a 15-minute pitstop and a good look around.

It’s actually a hotel, café and gift shop. And that’s hardly surprising because it is weren’t for the tourists there wouldn’t be anything here at all

dar ayed tamezret tunisiaDar Ayed has a claim to fame in that there’s a watch tower here that surveys the mountain passes that lead to here from the west and the south.

It’s a magnificent building, and if it’s the original (which somehow I doubt very much) it’s been superbly maintained and restored.

One of those places where we … "well, one of us" – ed … have to climb up to the top for a good look around

dar ayed tamezret tunisiaIn the past, being a Berber was not a healthy lifestyle choice, with the Arab invasion from the east of the 8th Century and pressure from the other nomadic tribes from the West.

A good look-out was thus clearly important and no-one can complain about the view from here. You could spot from miles away people coming to Tamazret from the south and you would have plenty of time to organise your defences or call the people in from the fields.

solar water heater dar ayed tamezret tunisia africaIf you look over there, you’ll see the road by which we arrived at Tamezret.

It came through the pass there to the west and you can see the road winding away in the distance towards Douz and Tozeur. Plenty of opportunity for someone up here to spot groups of travellers heading from the interior.

I suppose that these days the guy in the watchtower shouts down when he sees a tourist coach in the distance, giving the people in the kitchens plenty of time to throw another dozen burgers onto the barbie.

And do you like to solar water heater on the roof? There are also some solar panels. Things are looking up.

tunisian berber cliff dwelling matmata tunisia africaTHis area is quite well-known for its cliff-dwellings. Not like the Pueblo cliff-dwellings of New Mexico, but cliff dwellings nevertheless.

The cynic inside me suggested that the tourist guide on our bus had his grandfather living in a cliff dwelling around here because he took us to see one near Matmata where there was a Berber still in residence.

And for a dinar, of which there are about three to the Euro, we could go in for a look around.

tunisian berber cliff dwelling matmata tunisia africa33 cents isn’t expensive by any means, and I’ve paid much more money than that to see some even worse ruins.

And what was pleasantly surprising was just how cool it was inside. Apparently the temperature inside the cliff is pretty constant summer and winter and it’s very rare that you need any heating.

And this comes as a total surprise to people who have moved out of the cliff dwellings into more modern accommodation where you need air-conditioning in the summer and heating in the winter.

fig tree palm tree date tree tunisian berber cliff dwelling matmata tunisia africaThe palm tree and the fig tree (or is there a date tree) are quite interesting.

The ground isn’t level here, it’s all on something of a slope and so when there’s a rainstorm (which there is occasionally) all of the water that falls on the property runs down to that bottom corner.

And so his little orchard is to all intents and purposes self-watering.

lunch stop hotel matmata tunisia africaBy now my stomach was thinking that my throat had been cut, so it was just as well that our guide announced that it was lunchtime.

We ended up at a hotel on the edge of Matmata where a meal had been arranged for us. And our arrival had been clearly awaited by others too because there were yet more of these youths with their scrawny misshapen animals expecting you to want to have your photo taken with them – at a fee of course.

One poor girl had some boy place some kind of vulture on her shoulder while her attention was elsewhere, and you could have heard the scream back on the coast.

lunch stop hotel matmata tunisia africaThe Hotel Matmata had clearly seen better days, but I’ve stayed in worse places in western Europe than here.

In any case, we were only going to eat here. Couscous and vegetables and I traded my chicken for someone else’s helping of bread so I was quite happy with that.

And fresh fruit for pudding too. Just like being back at home, except that the fresh fruit really was fresh.

matmata tunisia africaAt Matmata we are effectively at the watershed of the Djebel Dahar mountains. And so just around the corner as you leave the town there is probably one of the most stunning views in the whole of North Africa.

It’s one of the best views that I have seen in recent times. We are probably about 50kms from the coast at this spot and I reckon that on a clear day with no haze you would be able to see it too.

As you know, Jersey is 54 kms from Granville and I can see it with my naked eye from a height of 60 metres, never mind 600 metres.

stone avalanche walls matmata tunisia africaAnd if you remember the terracing that we saw a short while ago which I reckoned was Roman, we might have to think again.

There are rows and rows of similar terraces just here too, but these are facing northwards so very unlikely to be vines.

Speaking to the tour guide, he reckons that they are avalanche walls, to protect people passing down the valley (before the road was built) from falling stones. Mind you, that’s a lot of effort.

Remember the silver-grey Renault that we saw in Douz, and I said that we would say something about it later?

renault symbol matmata tunisiaThat’s because just here I found an example parked right where I could take a photograph of it.

It’s a Renault Symbol, and as I said, I bet that you haven’t seen one of these before.

The story goes that Renault introduced the new generation Clio in 1999 as a car for the world market, but while it sold very well in some markets, it bombed in others.

Subsequent enquiries revealed that many countries in the world aren’t too keen on hatchbacks, but prefer a proper “three-box” design. Renault dealt with the matter by taking a Clio, sticking a boot on it, and calling it the Symbol. It’s only offered for sale in North Africa, certain countries in Eastern Europe and the Middle East.

signpost tripoli libya libyan borderWe had a pretty uneventful drive down the hill all the way to the coastal strip, and here we encountered our first clue that we are near the Libyan border.

Tripoli is a city, and the capital of a province in Libya and being so close I would have liked to have gone for a wander down the road in that direction but there was an army checkpoint further down the road, so maybe not this time.

However I was quite intrigued by the Mercedes in the photograph. It’s carrying a German “export” numberplate. I’d seen several vehicles over here with European numberplates and I was wondering how they arrived here. I wonder if Caliburn fancies a trip out some day soon.

Incidentally, where we are is not very far from what is known as “The Mareth Line” – the version of the Maginot Line that was built here to protect the French colony of Tunisia from invasion by the Italians in Libya at the start of World War II, and later heavily defended by Rommel and the Afrika Corps against the 8th Army.

sncft metre gauge bombardier MX624 general electric gabès tunisiaOn the outskirts of Gabès we came across the railway line – the metric-gauge line that links the town with Tunis and also the phosphate mines in the interior.

There are a couple of nice locomotives there too It’s difficult to identify them as trying to take a photo with a telephoto lens while passing over a level crossing is not easy. But the front one may well be a Bombardier MX624 and the rear one could be any one of three or four different classes of General Electric machine.

Nice to see one of my former employers doing the business here.

illicit fuel sales gabès tunisia africaNow here’s an interesting photograph. This is not a Tunisian petrol station, but on the other hand it is.

Tunisia has its own oilfields, but very little capacity for refining. So almost all of its oil is exported abroad in crude form. The country then imports refined petrol and diesel from other African countries.

But with the various difficulties that the country is facing, the country is obliged to import the cheapest fuel that it can find on the open market and that fuel, to put it frankly, is rubbish,

Being so close to the the Libyan border where we are, where the fuel is of first-class quality, there’s a huge black market in Libyan (and Algerian) fuel. And it shows you just how tenuous the Government’s control of the southern part of the country is when you see the fuel sold openly on the side of the road like this.

beach mahres tunisia africaWe made it as far as Mahres before the urge to stop for a coffee overwhelmed us.

While the others rested in the shade of a roadside café I took my coffee outside and went for a wander on the beach.

It’s not exactly what you would call a major tourist attraction here, being somewhat off the beaten track, but it was quite interesting nevertheless.

fishing port mahres tunisiaTHat’s not to say though that the place isn’t popular. It’s another one of these towns to where in the summer the emigrés will return and then the beaches will be heaving with people.

I think that what puts off the westerners from coming here is the fish port and the fish processing. That’s a comparatively new, or maybe I should say modern phenomenon, having been opened in 1987.

There’s a big natural gas plant up the road too which doesn’t help.

colosseum el djem amphitheatre tunisia africaNow, hands up if you know where this is.

I mean – you might not actually know where it is, but I bet that you have all seen it at some time or other.

And where you will have seen it is firstly in the film Gladiator starring Russell Crowe. It’s in here that the climax of the film takes place.

popular front of judea colosseum el djem amphitheatre tunisia africaYou’ll recognise the view right down there at the bottom of the steps too.

That’s where the Popular Front of Judea was sitting in Life of Brian because the amphitheatre scenes in that film were filmed in here too.

And so it’s all of this that makes it probably the best-known of all of the Roman amphitheatres

colosseum el djem amphitheatre tunisia africaWhere we are is in the town of El Djem, better-known as the Roman town of Thysdrus and home of what many people consider to be the most remarkable and most intact of the amphitheatres of the Roman Empire

You need to remember that back in Roman times this area was much more humid than it is now and the coasts of North Africa supplied the greater part of the agricultural produce consumed by Rome.

Thysdrus was the centre of olive oil production for the Roman Empire. As a result, it was a very propsperous area and the remains of the many Roman villas that have been discovered in the vicinity bear this out.

colosseum el djem amphitheatre tunisia africaThe city was one of the three most important cities in Roman North Africa and consequently the population was to be favoured when it came to issues of recreation.

The Amphitheatre, with a capacity of 35,000 spectators, making it possibly the 3rd largest in the Empire, was built on the orders of the Proconsul Gordian before his (very brief) reign as Emperor in The Year Of The Six Emperors.

It is said to have replaced an earlier Amphitheatre and while no remains of such an earlier one have been found, aerial photography seems to suggest that a stadium corresponding to the type that was used for horse racing may well have been situated on the outskirts of the town.

colosseum el djem amphitheatre tunisia africaAs for “Gladiator”, regardless of any historical accuracy Russell Crowe would have felt quite at home here because that type of fight often took place in the amphitheatre.

Another person who would have been quite at home here was Charlton Athletic, for the kind of chariot races in which he participated in Ben-Hur took place here too.

Although if they made the film today they would have to call it “Ben Them” of course.

colosseum el djem amphitheatre tunisia africaAnd of course we had Christians being thrown to the lions too. Whenever that took place, the trench in the middle of the floor was covered over with woden planks (the metal grille is a recent innovation) so that the Christians couldn’t escape by jumping into the cellar.

On the other hand, when there was a gladiator fight, the trench was left uncovered with the lions roaming about freely down below,

colosseum el djem amphitheatre tunisia africaThe object of the Gladiator fight was, if not to kill your opponent, to knock him down into the cellar where the lions would take care of him.

The lions were kept in cages down below and there was a marvellous story once told that a group of people was invited to witness a spectacle here but because there was no other accommodation for them, they were told that there would be some space for them in the cages of the lions.

Of course, after the lions had been removed. But I bet that they worried all the same.

colosseum el djem amphitheatre tunisia africaThe amphitheatre was designed to be four storeys high but there is some dispute about whether it was actually completed.

It’s known that work stopped here earlier than expected after the troops of Capelianus of Numidia overthrew Gordian and his supporters after a reign of just 21 days – told Gordian to get knotted probably, and that the amphitheatre has been badly damaged on several subsequent occasions, but whether or not it reached the full four storeys in that corner cannot be definitely confirmed.

colosseum el djem amphitheatre tunisia africaThe reasons for the destruction of that side of the amphitheatre are threefold

  • It was used as a fortress by the locals to defend themselves against the Arab invaders in the 8th Century and was damaged when the latter stormed it
  • It was likewise used when the Ottomans came here in on several occasions as fighting swept back and forth across the coastal plain in the 16th Century, and on one occasion cannons were used against it.
  • After the final capture of the amphitheatre at the beginning of the 17th Century it was pillaged for stone to build the city and the Great Mosque at Kairouan


colosseum el djem amphitheatre tunisia africaIt was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979 and quite rightly so because it’s the most astonishing surviving historical object on the whole coast of North Africa if you ask me.

I was really glad that I had had the opportunity to come here., even if we did only have about an hour to explore the amphitheatre. I could quite easily have spent all day here.

But that’s the problem when you travel in a group like this. You are tied to other people’s arrangements.

colosseum el djem amphitheatre tunisia africaDespite the limited amount of time and my own little health issues, I made it right the way up to the very top of the amphitheatre and was able to look down on the crowds in the street.

Tunisia had just qualified for the World Cup or won a football match or something, and there were crowds in the streets and in cars sounding their horns and waving flags about.

And why not? It doesn’t happen every day, at least over here.

colosseum el djem amphitheatre tunisia africaAnd I’m glad that I made it right to the top, because the view from up here really is excellent.

It’s a shame that there’s so much haze because the view of the mountains over which we have just driven must have benn spectacular.

What’s also spectacular is how they have managed to maintain so much of the grid pattern of streets. But whether this is a Roman influence or some other influence I really couldn’t say.

colosseum el djem amphitheatre tunisia africaLeaving the amphitheatre later I noticed that the sun had finally moved round so that I could take a photo of it.

It’s rather disapointing when there’s only one really good viewpoint and the sun is streaming full-on into the lens.

And while I was taking this photo an old bright yellow Motobécane moped went past, still with the otiginal yellow and blue “La Poste” stickers. I bet that he didn’t ride that all the way from France.

Back on the road again heading for home. I make it 12.5 hours that we’ve been on the road already and there’s still a long way to go.

old cars IVECO OM el djem tunisia africaAnd amongst the things for which I’ve been keeping an eye out are old or unusual vehicles.

And while this lorry here, which I reckon might be a very early FIAT IVECO or very late FIAT OM, might not be quite so interesting, the cab in the middle is, I reckon a cab off an old OM lorry from the 50s or early 60s

And that makes it quite interesting.

By now I’d settled down to doze in my seat as we headed northwards. We successfully dodged the Police speed traps (although some motorist in front of us didn’t) and eventually those of us from the Sousse area were thrown out into the bus that was to take us back to our hotels.

And I can see now why it was so late in arriving yesterday morning. It took hours to negotiate the traffic around the various hotels all around Sousse. But I had an opportunity while we were stuck in various traffic queues to admire the shipping in the harbour. I shall have to come back.

I was thoroughly exhausted by the time I returned. It was a good job that there was still some food left, even if I did struggle to eat my tea (I was starving but also very tired), forgot my jacket in the restaurant and came back up here where I crashed out completely.

It’s a long time since I’ve been this tired.

And here’s 4641 words to keep you out of mischief. you lucky people. While you read it, I’m going to go to sleep.

Friday 20th April 2018 – I MENTIONED YESTERDAY …

… that I would be talking much more … "much, much more" – ed … about the man from the Tunisian Tourist Board and his optional extras.

So here I am at 07:00 sitting in the hotel foyer waiting for a bus to come by.

And needing to heave myself out of my pit at some silly hour this morning, I was tucked up in bed with a film on the laptop at some silly hour last night.

But nevertheless, as seems to be the usual procedure these days, I didn’t make it to the end of the film. In fact, far from it.

And it was rather a disturbed night too with me being unable to settle down into a deep sleep, what with the pressure of having to be up early in the morning. But that still didn’t prevent me from being on my travels.

So during the night we had to wait for the convoy to come and pick us up, and here it was arriving at some time earlier than the 07:15 promised. The convoy consisted of a couple of armoured cars with one of these armoured personnel carriers, painted orange, in between. And we waited (and waited, and waited) to be called. It was then that I realised that I didn’t have an important item of clothing with me and I needed to go home for it. It was a good 5-10 minutes up the hill to Virlet and then I had to find what I needed and come back again of course, and it was already 07:19 and I was nowhere near arriving at my house yet so I doubted very much if I would be back in time. I didn’t think that they would wait that long for me.

But the question didn’t arise because the alarm went off at 05:55 and again at 06:00 and I was awake and out of bed more-or-less promptly. By 06:30 I was downstairs with my rucksack all nicely packed and trying to track down some food. There’s a bar by the swimming pool that opens at, would you believe, 03:00 and he rustled up some toast and coffee, as well as a bottle of water for the journey.

The bus was due at 07:00 so at 07:30 I asked the receptionist if it was normal that he would be this late.

“Ohh yes” he reassured me. “Quite normal”. I could have had a normal breakfast had I known

When he finally arrived and picked me up we headed off

sousse tunisia africaWe had to go via a couple of other hotels and pick up a few more people, and then we threaded our way through the streets of the outskirts of Sousse and into the interior of the country.

Once we were out of the tourist zones and the city centre, we noticed a marked decline in the standard of living of the general public.

Despite what people tell you, not all of the wealth cascades down to the bottom of the pile and there are some who are less-fortunate than others.

That’s not to say that there is no sign of economic progress in the region.

There’s still a good deal of house-building going on around here. The “flight to the towns” that was a symbol of the dissolution of rural life in Western Europe in the 1950s and 1960s is happening here too,

Especially as the desert continues its relentless march onwards and overwhelms little by little many of the more-isolated rural communities.

Regular readers of this rubbish will recall that I’ve mentioned … "many, many times" – ed … the fact that the climate today is much different than it was in antiquity.

agriculture sousse tunisia africaNorth Africa was much wetter than it is today and there wasn’t as much desert.

Agriculture was much more prominent and the region was the major source of supply of many of the agricultural products of the Roman Empire – the “Bread Basket of Rome”.

Even today there’s a considerable agricultural output from the region as you can see, and I’m not just talking about olives, dates and figs.

So just imagine what this region must have looked like 2000 years ago when agriculture was at its height.

bus to desert kairouan tunisia africaWe came to the town of Kairouan where we needed to change to another bus that was going to take us on the rest of our journey.

The plan was that we should have had enough time to visit the Great Mosque there but with running so late the bus that was going to meet us was already there and the driver was keen to depart.

And I can’t say that I blamed him either. It’s a long way to where we are going.

mosque kairouan tunisia africaBut I haven’t come all this way to be thwarted, I’ll tell you that. I’ll get to have a look at the mosque, even if it’s only from the outside.

It’s an absolutely magnificent edifice and so I have to look for a decent vantage point to take a photo because the most obvious one has the sun streaming into the lens.

So around the corner using another building as a sun blind I can at least manage to do something.

It was however a huge disappointment not to be able to visit the interior of the mosque because it is one of the most important and one of the oldest religious edifices in the whole of the Islamic world.

Tunisia was invaded by the Arabs in the latter years of the 7th Century and by 670AD – which is Year 50 in Muslim dating – they were firmly established here in Kairouan which they used as their main base of operations.

And it was in this year that the construction of the Great Mosque began. And it doesn’t have the sobriquet “Great” for nothing because it covers an area of over 9,000 square metres and a perimeter of over 400 metres. The minaret is about 31 metres high.

It became the inpsiration and the basis of the design of almost every other mosque in North Africa and is said to use earliest know example of a “horseshoe arch.

As well as being the centre of religious teaching in Western North Africa (the Maghreb) it also had a reputation of being a great centre of secular learning and in the 10th and 11th Century was said to have one of the most impressive libraries in the world.

One book that was held here was the legendary “Blue Koran”, described by the Brooklyn Museum as being “one of the most extraordinary luxury manuscripts ever created.”. But like the rest of the contents, it was pillaged and dispersed by the Ottomans when they overran the area in 1534.

kairouan tunisia africaAs for the town itself, there was very little here before the Arabs arrived, and it was they who built the city.

The inland site was chosen because the Mediterranean coast was still subject to surprise raids by the Byzantine fleet, and it also controlled the exit of a couple of mountain passes to the west that were stil lin the hands of the Berbers, so it could stem any counter-invasion from that direction.

It still retains much that is of great historical value and became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1988. in 2009 it was proclaimed the “Capital of Islamic Culture”.

And I suppose that you are wondering why the mosque isn’t situated in the centre of the Medina, as you might expect.

The answer is that it was when construction started, but as the fame of the city grew, it expanded rapidly and by the 9th Century the town is said to have had over 100,000 inhabitants. However, the topography to the north (riddled with wadis) limited expansion in that direction.

The rapid expansion of the city exhausted the nearby drinking water supplies and a whole system of artificial aquaducts and reservoirs was constructed, the remains of which are still clearly visible today (if we had time to go to visit them), to bring water from the mountains.

artillery cannon medina kairouan tunisia africaThe place is also littered with souvenirs and artefacts of warfare.

Being one of the principal cities in the Maghreb it was a target of many an invading army.I’ve mentioned the Ottoman Turks invading here, and the city was also a fanatical centre of resistance to the French “liberators” in 1881.

In fact the resistance was to such an extent that the French never really quite felt in full control of the region in all the time that they were here.

Eventually we all leap aboard the bus, which is almost full to capacity, and head off out of town.

street market kairouan tunisia africaIt’s market day today, as usual, and everyone has set out his or her stall in the marketplace.

And it’s not just the typical meat and veg either. Kairouan has a couple of claims to fame, firstly for its patisseries and secondly, with the town being surrounded by sheep, for its woollen products, especially woven wool carpets.

And talking of wool, it reminds me of when Lux, the washing soap people, launched a new product with the advert “if it’s safe in water, it’s safe in Lux”.
I wrote back to them “I’d like to talk to you about my goldfish …”

taxi louage cimetierre kairouan tunisia africaThis roundabout is very close to the dead centre of Kairouan, which you can see in the background.

As for the vehicles though, you will probably have guessed that the yellow vehicles are taxis, but the white minibuses with the red stripe are something of a cross between taxis and buses. They are called louages.

They sort-of follow a fixed route (although deviations are quite the normal thing, especially if a passenger starts to wave about some of the folding stuff).

They don’t follow a fixed timetable either. They set off when the driver thinks that he has enough people aboard, and stop and wait when he hasn’t.

roundabout kairouan sousse gabes gafsa tunisia africaAt this roundabout we pick up the ring road around the town.

There’s a sign here for Sousse but we aren’t going back to there. We’re taking the road to Gafsa, and I suppose I’d better tell you why.

Regular readers of this rubbish will recall that we have had a miserable winter. It’s been wet like a wetness that I have never seen – only 4 dry days between the end of October and the end of March, floods everywhere, and I’m thoroughly fed up.

So much so that I said to quite a few people that I’m going to find a way of getting to the desert and then I’m going to sit in it.

Seeing the advert for this week away in Tunisia was one thing, but that’s not enough to satisfy me. It’s a shame to come all of this way and not take the final step.

So when the Tourist guide came to the hotel yesterday I asked him how I could go to the desert.

At first he refused to give me any details. “Your Government won’t allow your citizens to travel to the interior”
“Why’s that?” I asked.
“They are nervous about the situation down there.”
“That’s strange”
“Yes, but the Belgian Government is very protective of its citizens”
“Belgian? I’m not Belgian”.
“But you came with a party of Belgians that booked with a Belgian Travel Agent in a hotel that is primarily for Belgian clients”
“That’s as maybe, but that’s because I happened to be in Belgium when I saw the advert”
“So what nationality are you?”
“British” I replied, brandishing my passport.
“British? They you’re lucky. You are one of the few countries who are allowed to travel”.

There was a revolution in Tunisia 7 or so years ago, and this seemed to reinforce the Arab control over the country, which means that the Berbers, the Bedouins, the Touaregs and a few other minorites down south are not too impressed.

Furthermore, the south of Tunisia is like a finger that points in between Algeria and Libya. In both those countries there are some anti-Government forces and when the pressure is too hot for them they step over the border into Tunisia for a little peace and quiet.

Although this might sound like a tense situation, everyone involved in any kind of discontent knows that the only money that comes into the south of the country these days comes from the tourists.

Frighten away the tourists and you stop the flow of money and everyone suffers. So apart from the odd madman which you find in every walk of life in every country in the world, there’s no real issue for the tourists.

Statistics go to show that you stand much more chance of being killed by a madman with a legally-held firearm in a school in the USA or on a beach in Florida than you do here.

And as if that would stop me anyway.

“There’s a bus going from Hammamet into the desert tomorrow for two days but as there are a few people from the hotels in Sousse and Monastir who are allowed to go, we’ve arranged a feeder bus. We’ll arrange for it to come for you too”.

So here I am, with, as far as I can gather, a pile of Brits, a few French, a couple of Pakistanis and a Hungarian. And Uncle Tom Cobbleigh and all, for all I know.

kasserine pass tunisia africaNow this is an exciting sign.

The name of Kasserine certainly rings a bell. There’s a mountain pass behind it that leads through the mountains into Algeria that you won’t ever find an American mentioning.

In November 1942 during World War II the US Army had landed on the coast of Morocco and Algeria in what was known as Operation Torch.

With the British 8th Army pushing along the coast westwards from Libya, the idea was to catch the German Army in a pincer movement here in Tunisia between the mountains and the sea.

So this involved the Americans making a dash for the Kasserine Pass before the Germans could reach there and fortify it.

But, typically for the Americans, they wouldn’t make a movement before all of their supplies and home comforts had arrived. And when they finally set off, they were lulled by their inexperience, naivité and overconfidence into a false sense of security.

They arrived at the Kasserine Pass with a kind of innocence that was quite touching, totally unaware of the fact that the Germans had arrived there first, and when they marched through the Pass quite nonchalantly the Germans set upon them and devastated them.

General Omar Bradley called the battle “a disaster” and said “It was probably the worst performance of U.S. Army troops in their whole proud history” – which presumably includes the abject surrender of Detroit on 16th August 1812 which a Vermont Newspaper, the “Green Mountain Farmer” described at the time as “disaster, defeat, disgrace, and ruin and death” and for which General Hull, the officer in charge of the post, was tried by court-martial and sentenced to death, and also the flight of the US Army from Washington DC and its total abandonment to the British who burnt it to the ground on 24th August 1814.

General Ernest Harmon wrote “It was the first—and only—time I had ever seen an American army in rout”

However we didn’t head to Kasserine, which was a pity. We continued on in the direction of Gafsa.

eucalyptus trees tunisia north africaBut we were still heading towards the mountains nevertheless. Our route was planning to take us into the foothills of the Atlas Mountains at the very least.

And you’ll notice the change in vegetation too. The climate is becoming much more arid and even the olive trees were starting to have a hard time of it.

And you’re probably thinking that these don’t look like olive trees. And neither did I, so I enquired. Our guide told us that there are gommier – gum trees – imported from Australia. I wonder if he means “eucalyptus”?

phosphate mine tunisia africaOne thing that you’ll find out here on the edge of the desert is a large assortment of mines and quarries, although you might not notice it in this photo (taking photos inside a bouncing bus isn’t very easy)..

Tunisia has enormous resources of phosphates, some of the richest in the world, and we are, apparently, driving along the phosphate belt of the country.

To give you some idea of the amount of the stuff, of 11,000,000 tonnes of freight carried by Tunisian railways in 2007, 8,000,000 tonnes of that was phosphates. One company alone (admittedly, with several mines and quarries) accounted for 10% of the country’s exports and 4% of its GDP.

oasis parc café jelma tunisia africeShortly after this we reached the town of Jelma, and here on the outskirts of the town was a roadside café, the “Oasis Parc”.

This looked a little out of place here. The baked adobe finish looked more like something that you might see in Mexico or the US border states.

But no matter. We’ve been on the road for hours so I can’t say that I was sorry to stop here for a coffee etc. We certainly needed it, some more than others.

police patrol oasis parc café jelma tunisia africaBut one thing that I had noticed was that the café was situated within the walls of its own little compound, and not long after we had pulled in, the gate was closed behind us.

There was however time for me to go for a peep to the outside, and sure, enough we were not alone.

A police van thing had pulled up outside and two evidently military men with automatic weapons were on patrol outside. “A taste of things to come” I mused to myself. Evidently the farces of law and order have less faith in the locals than I do.

Back on the road once more and we continued on our merry, mazy way into the foothills of the Atlas.

And I must have dozed off at some point (which is hardly a surprise given the early start) because I didn’t make much of a note of things that were going on.

abandoned hyundai kia pickups tunisia africaBut I must have been shocked into life at one moment or other in order to see some more abandoned vehicles by the roadside.

The red van at the back is a Berlingo-type of vehicle but the rest seem to be either Kias or Hyundais and they look as if they have been there for a considerable amount of time.

There’s quite a few of them as you can see, so I wonder what the story is behind them.

restaurant orbata gafsa tunisia africaIt must have been a good while that I was away with the fairies because the next thing that I knew was that it was lunchtime.

We’re on the edge of the town of Gafsa, at a place called the Restaurant Orbata.

And I was in luck here because when I explained to the manager about my meal, he had the chef rustle me up a plate of couscous and vegetables cooked in oil with an extra helping of bread.

I’m not going to complain about that.

gafsa palace hotel tunisia africaBack outside afterwards, there were a few minutes left for me to go for an exploration.

The restaurant is part of some kind of complex related to the Gafsa Palace Hotel, and splendid pile this one looked too, just like something out of the Arabian Nights.

And you’ll notice the big, heavy gates here too, although there were none at our restaurant.

peugeot pickup nissan navara gafsa tunisia africaBut never mind all of that right now. I was much more intrigued by this vehicle.

You con’t have seen one of these in Western Europe because despite the success of the legendary 403, 404 and 505 pick-ups, Peugeot seems to have abandoned the pick-up market there.

Not so in North Africa though, where a new generation or Peugeot pick-ups is available. And not so in China where the Peugeot pick-up platform is shared with a Dongfeng offering, and surprisingly, neither in North America where it’s marketed as the Nissan Navara (albeit with a few styling changes).

gafsa tunisia africaOnce more unto the breach, dear friends. And here at Gafsa we headed off around the ring road and into the Atlas Mountains.

At least driving around the ring road gave us an opportunity to study the city of Gafsa. Not that there’s much to study from this viewpoint unfortunately, even though there’s a great deal of history attached to the place.

No-one knows the origins of the settlement here. It was certainly occupied during far antiquity, and the remains of some kind of very primitive leather workings that have been discovered have been dated to at least 8500 years ago.

It was an important crossroads (a role that it still carries on today) for the Romans, where the road from what is today Algeria bursts out of the mountains on its way to Libya crosses with the road down which we have just travelled from the coast to the oases of the interior.

And it is believed by some to have been the site of the Phoenician city of Utica, although this is hotly disputed by many others

Such was its status in Roman times that it was granted the position of a colonia, and called Capsa.

gafsa tunisia africaYou won’t find any Roman remains here though. When the city was occupied by the Byzantines, who gave it the name of Justiniana, they totally razed the Roman city and used the stones to build a defensive wall.

But despite the absence of any Roman remains, the extent of the city can be gauged by the fact that is recorded in contemporary texts that various important spectacles took place here.

So there must have been at least a large theatre, if not an amphitheatre.

Despite the Byzantine walls, the city fell to the Arabs in 688. But not without what was recorded in Arab texts as a “fanatical defence” (we seem to be meeting a lot of “fanatical defence” in this region).

And even after its fall the inhabitants refused to integrate with their new masters and it is said that even as late as the 11th Century many of the inhabitants had still not converted to Islam and were still speaking Latin.

gafsa tunisia africaIt has several rather sinister claims to fame too.

  • In 1907 a French regiment refused to obey orders to suppress a series of demonstrations against the French Government in the Languedoc region of France, having been shocked by the brutal manner in which another French regiment had fired on the unarmed demonstrators and killed several. As a punishment, they were transferred here to Gafsa to sweat it out in the desert.
  • On 27th January 1980, a Libyan Army brigade, including a good number of Tunisian dissidents, having entered the country clandestinely, seized control of the city and invited the inhabitants to rise up against the Government, while the Libyan Army took up a threatening position on the border to distract the Tunisian Army. The population refused to rise up and eventually the Government regained control of the city, but not without a good deal of sabre-rattling from the Libyans and the Algerians who objected to the presence of French military advisers helping out the Tunisians.
  • In 2008 there was a general strike here that was put down by the Government with great brutality, and the subsequent discontent simmering away is said to have been one of the factors that led to the Revolution of 2011.
  • In 2014, at the height of Ramadan, it was discovered that an abandoned quarry had transformed itself into an oasis following the eruption of an underground spring. Even though the Catholic Church informs us that miracles only happen in Catholicism and never in Islam, the fact that this was observed at Ramadan calls into question the claims by the Catholic Churchof their monopoly of miracles.


Just beyond Gafsa we had our first encounter with a serious military presence.

We’d seen the odd military patrol here and there on our travels to date, but this was a proper road block and checkpoint. We had no issues, being allowed straight through, but from what I saw, almost every other vehicle on the road was being pulled over and searched.

And this is how it continued for the rest of our journey. Had I been in a private car and not an official Tunisian Government Tourist Board coach, I would have been well-fed up by the end of the day.

metre gauge railway line sncft sousse tozeurI mentioned a short while ago the phosphate mines and the Tunisian railway network – the SNCFT, or Société National des Chemins de Fer de Tunisie.

This whole area is honeycombed with phosphate deposits and the output is taken to the ports on this metre-gauge railway line that runs all the way to the oasis of Tozeur.

There’s a passenger railway service too that runs through the night from Sousse to the oasis, and that was my Plan B if I could find no other way of going to the interior.

scrapyard metlaoui tunisia north africaBut never mind the desert and the scenery and the railway line for the moment – this is much more like my idea of scenery isn’t it?

Even in North Africa they can’t make cars go on for ever and I bet that there’s some really good stuff down at the far end of that scrapyard.

This is the kind of place that would have attracted my attention for some considerable time, as poor Nerina would have testified. She always had something of a difficult time on our many journeys around Europe.

abandoned railway metlaoui tunisia africaHere and there around the town of Metlaoui are some very rich deposits of phosphates, but many of the extraction sites have been closed and the railway branches abandoned

In fact, it was the closure of some of these sites and the subsequent job losses in 2007 and 2008 that led to the civil discontent in Gafsa which I mentioned earlier.

The continued uncertainty around here coupled with issues across the border are what have led to the more visible presence of the farces of law and order beyond Gafsa

But this is why there isn’t any great issue with the tourists. With the winding-down of the phosphate economy, the tourists are playing a more vital role in the economy of the area and no-one wants to chase them and their money away.

camel herd tozeur tunisia africaNow this is the kind of thing that really gives you the hump, isn’t it?

You can tell just how deep in the desert we are even here when you start to notice the herds of camels.

Beasts of burden have long-since given way to motorised transport wherever it is possible to do so, but there’s still a place for a camel train once you go deep into the desert and it won’t be far now before the road peters out.

oasis palm trees tozeur tunisia africaI said that Tozeur was a small town situated at an oasis in the desert, didn’t I?

Now just look at all those trees over there in the distance. The town, and the end of the road, is down there somewhere in amongst those trees and that’s our destination for today.

At one time there were 200 different water sources and as many as 400,000 trees but with the change in climate, both the sources and the trees are slowly starting to dry out and use of the water is now controlled.

horse and cart tozeur tunisia africaOn arrival in the city we were dropped off at what passes for a kind of taxi rank. We were going to visit one of the groves in the oasis, but by horse and carriage.

All of this is included in the price, so I was informed, so who am I to refuse?

We poured out of the tour bus an into a carriage. I ended up sharing with a couple from Paris and their little daughter.

collapsed wheel bearing horse and cart tozeur tunisia africaI say “carriage”, but I do use the term rather loosely. These are what might have passed for carriages 100 years ago.

And an enormous amount of hilarity ensued when the wheel bearing of one of them collapsed and the wheel, passengers and guide were decanted into the street. And we hadn’t gone more than five yards either.

A few other wheel bearings also looked rather shaky too, including ours. I hoped that it would last out until we got back.

And the same applied to the horse. I’ve seen healthier-looking beasts hanging up on a hook in a butcher’s shop.

eden palm hotel tozeur tunisia africaSo while we are trotting off down an alleyway and past one of the 200 water sources on our way to the oasis, let me tell you a little about the town.

It goes without saying that with it being one of the largest oases in the whole of North Africa, it’s been inhabited for thousands of years. There is certainly evidence to suggest that the Capsienne civilisation, which expired around 6000 BC was present at the oasis.

The town was a Carthaginian outpost called Tisourous and when the Romans ovethrew the Carthaginian Empire it became the fortified Roman city of Thusuros. And there’s plenty of evidence of Roman remains here too, There was even an early Christian church, the remains of which have been incorporated into the mosque..

It fell to the Arabs during their invasion of the late 7th Century and subsequently became another great intellectual centre where even poets thrived.

Tourism has long been known in this area too and one of the earliest of the modern genre of travel writers, Thomas Shaw, wrote about his visit here in 1730.

bananas oasis tozeur tunisia africaToday, the economy revolves around agriculture, with the region famous for its date crop,

And not only that, if you look very carefully at the lower right quadrant of this image you’ll see a bunch of bananas. They can even make those grow here, but it’s not a particularly profitable crop by any means.

However, whatever you do, don’t make jokes about bananas within the hearing of the Tunisian police. It’s a sensitive subject.

spring water source oasis tozeur tunisia africaAnd while you admire one of the water sources here in the grove that we visited, I’ll tell you that another commercial enterprise for which Tozeur is well-known is its brick factory.

It still makes bricks of the traditional style, and in the traditional manner too. At the last count, there were 20 families earning their living at the brickworks.

There is also of course tourism, although most of the tourists are merely passing through, just as we are. This causes some dismay amongst the locals who with that the Tourist Board would do something about attracting long-stay tourists to the area isntead of the overnighters.

shade of palm trees grove oasis tozeur tunisia africaReturning to our moutons as they might say in Francophonia, this grove really was a fantastic place to be.

It’s difficult to imagine that we were deep in the desert just here with all of the trees growing around us. It was relatively cool in the shade

But even so, there were several signs of decayed and fallen trees around here. It did make me wonder how long the water supply would last out.

FIAT OM XOn the way back to town, we were overtaken by another historic vehicle of the type that you won’t see these days in Europe.

This is an old OM – Officine Meccaniche – lorry and the fact that it’s badged as a FIAT indicates that it most likely dates from the period 1968 – 1975.

And if that’s a plastic grille it indicates that it’s a “later” rather than an “earlier” model.

I asked about the Islamic script in the centre of the windscreen as I’d seen many vehicles displaying it, and was told that it’s an exhortation to Allah.

sahara desert tozeur tunisia africaOur horses and carts dropped as all off at yet another taxi rank, this time where there was a queue of some rather elderly 4×4 Land Cruisers.

The second part of our early evening, because it was now rather late in the day, adventure, likewise included in the price of our excursion, was a trip out into the desert

And this pleased me greatly. After the winter that we had had, I promised myself the desert, and here I am.

toyota land cruiser sahara desert tozeur tunisia africaAnd the road that we took was not an easy one either, although I suspect that we came this way more for effect rather than for necessity

Nevertheless, it certainly made for an exciting trip and it did produce some wonderfully photogenic moments as we swerved up and down some really difficult desert terrain.

It was certainly not for the faint-hearted but I hoped that we were going to come back this way so that I could retrieve my stomach.

mirage sahara desert tozeur tunisia africaEveryone has heard of the phenomenon of the mirage in the desert, and one of the best in the whole of North Africa is said to be found here on the outskirts of Tozeur.

That’s not a lake of course, as became apparent when we went to drive down that valley. It really is a mirage.

And if you enlarge the image by clicking on it, you’ll see just how realistic it looked.

A little further on we had the fisrt glimpse of our destination.

And I imagine that even though you didn’t know where it was, you’ll all recognise what it is.

And all of the tracks that lead down there into the wadi will show you that it’s a very popular destination, especially with tourists who travel hundreds of miles to come here.

mos espa star wars film location nefta tunisia africaWhere we are is about 20 miles from the Algerian border near a village called Nefta.

Right out here miles from anywhere (except the Algerian border) is the mythical Huttite city of Mos Espa, the film set from the later series of George Lucas’s “Star Wars” films.

We’ve picked the wrong day to be here though. We should have been here on May the Fourth.

mos espa star wars film location nefta tunisia africaThere are no Jedi here today though. And no Pizza the Hut either for that matter.

Just an enormous numbers of souvenir sellers and the like trying to take advantage of the gullible tourists. Even I could see that the desert amethysts and other precious stones were fakes.

You can have your photograph taken with a whole variety of misshapen flea-infested animals too, but at a price of course.

mos espa star wars film location nefta tunisia africaIt’s interesting to see how the village was constructed.

The buildings have a wooden framwork and are then built up with fibreglass, then given a rough finish to resemble clay or adobe.

Having been engulfed in numerous sandstorms, including one during filming, the buildings are in a very poor state of repair and I don’t imagine that they will be lasting all that much longer.

We drove back to Tozeur from here.

And I was right about the route into the desert. Just around the corner was the main, metalled road to the Algerian border and coming back was nothing like as exciting as the way out.

hotel ras el ain tozeur tunisia africaWe had been booked in to stay at the Ras El Ain hotel, which looked as if it was one of the ones that had been built for the luxury tourism boom that was anticipated in the early 1990s

If you thought that the one in Sqanes is luxury you should see the Hotel Ras El Ain here. I can honestly say that I have never ever in my life had such luxury. This really is the Last Word in holiday accommodation.

But I’m not going to have the time to enjoy it. We’re getting up at … errr … 04:00 and we’ll be on the road at 05:00.

And while I’m asleep, you can sit quietly and read today’s blog entry. A marathon, mammoth world record of 5875 words.

Monday 2nd April 2018 – 08:35 …

…. that’s a much more respectable time to wake up on a Bank Holiday, isn’t it?

And I’d been on my travels too. In an old Ford Cortina mk III in dark bronze with a white vunyl roof, the same colour that TNY should be had someone not painted it a horrible chocolate brown colour. I’d been taxiing in it, picking up passengers where I shouldn’t, in an underground car park (and we’ve been here on previous voyages too) out of my licensed area. I’d done two or three trips and on the return from the last one there was a proper licensed taxi waiting, so I was glad that I had been able to do at least those without being caught. But then I had to take the car for its taxi test and with the scuttle under the windscreen having rotted away, I was wondering how I could disguise it so that the tester wouldn’t notice. But back home, Nerina had returned to live with me and so I’d been out shopping and what I had done was to buy the same products as usual but twice as much. And that made me wonder if that was the correct decision, and what would she say about it, and what if she had also been out shopping and bought a load of stuff?

I had the fig roll for breakfast with the usual porridge, fruit puree, juice and coffee. And delicious it was too. That was a good plan in the absence of any hot cross buns. And then with it being Bank Holiday I had a really good relax and didn’t do too much at all except eat my vegan Easter Egg (thanks, Jenny).

I managed a trip out for a walk in the afternoon in the wild weather, along with the crowds who were bravely battling the elements. I’m fed up of all of this, that’s for sure.

But this evening, I was out socialising. So I had a good shower and clean-up before I went. My neighbours were back from Vietnam and were planning to exhibit their photos we I went round. There were about a dozen of us all told. We started at 19:00 and I left at 22:30 (three and a half hours of socialising is a record for me and I wasn’t the first to leave either).

There had been that much talking that we hadn’t even started the photos. But it does me good to get out and about and meet people instead of living in splendid isolation in my little apartment. People keep on telling me that I ought to get out more often.

So tomorrow the routine starts again. Up at 06:30. I’m not sure that I feel much like it but I shall do my best.

Thursday 8th March 2018 – YOU MISSED …

… all of the excitement this morning.

coach place d'armes granville manche normandy franceMuch of the Pointe de la Roc is out of bounds to heavy vehicles, and coaches are only authorised to use a short stretch of the road that leads to the big car park.

But that didn’t stop this driver, and his mate in the coach behind thinking that the rules don’t apply to them. And they duly came up here and then tried to negotiated the corner into the Place d’Armes.

You have probably noticed that the registration number of the bus is “75” – a Paris number. And that explains everything. Rules in the Provinces don’t apply to Parisians as we know. They are far superior to be bothered by that sort of thing

coach pointe du roc granville manche normandy franceAnd it was quite amusing to watch the drivers as they were suddenly confronted by the roadworks here.

One coach managed just about to negotiate the tight corner after many vicissitudes, but the other was well and truly wedged and it took the driver about 20 minutes to extract himself.

I did at one stage go over to the driver to ask him if he would like me to manoeuvre the coach for him, but I was met with the kind of greeting that would have been considered out-of-place in the fo’c’sle of an Australian whaler.

But he eventually extracted himself, turned round (narrowly avoiding missing a couple of parked cars) and then disappeared the wrong way down the one-way street.

I had my early night, but I didn’t have much of a relax though because I was tossing and turning throughout most of it. But that didn’t stop me goign on one or two of my voyages.

We started off with one of our 3D characters (and when you have your own 3D characters coming with you on a nocturnal ramble you know that you have problems) having to choose a new ski suit for a holiday and ended up after many more vicissitudes choosing a lemon – coloured one. And simple as that sounds, you have no idea just how long that took.
And from there we moved into the realm of realism (such as it might be) with my father telling me about one of his former colleagues (who actually drove my schoolkids about when I had my taxis) who was selling a Ford Cortina 2000E at the local auctions – for a reserve of £4800. Of course that was way out of my price and so I wasn’t planning to go, but a series of events conspired to have me in Whitchurch at the time of the auction and so I ended up there just in time to see him list the vehicle at a reserve price of £4080. But turning into the car park I had run over a glass bottle in Caliburn, and the tyre was punctured and a ball joint damaged. This man told me that he’d look at it after the auction as he was now running a small tyre business. So the bidding started on his car and was very sluggish round the £2000 mark, when suddenly it took off and went well over the reserve. And at the end of the auction the man told me that he now had to go to a funeral – but I shouldn’t go to Garage X because they weren’t as good as Garage Y – which coincidentally was the one to which I went anyway. He went off to look for his hearse, which he couldn’t find, and his wife told me what a marvellous person he was, to which I replied that I knew all about him. I ended up (I’m not sure how) with Caliburn at Garage Y (which bore a surprising resemblance to my father’s workshop) where the puncture was repaired. But I wanted to fit the wheel, to which he hummed and haa’d because he was planning to close up and didn’t have the time. But eventually I wa son my way and it was now really late. I was obliged to crash out in Caliburn at the side of the road, thinking to myself that seeing as how I’d just got back together with Nerina (it was all happening last night, wasn’t it?) what would she think about me having promised to live a more regular lifestyle, and being out at night like this. So being crashed out like this, I was rudely awakened by a police patrol (reminiscences of Switzerland a few years ago) for a “control” and I could in my befuddled state only find half of the papers that I needed. I had to admit that while I had the insurance certificate, I didn’t have the insurance policy and that led to some harsh words and difficult moments.

No wonder that I was thoroughly exhausted this morning after all of that during the night.

After the usual start to the morning and the Thursday shower, I postponed my trip to the shops seeing as it was totally pouring down. But by about 10:00 I could see some blue sky in the distance heading this way so I took to the streets, having my encounter with the coach drivers on the way.

LIDL was the port of call, and there was nothing special to tempt me. But the place was heaving – a vast contrast to last Thursday in the snow. Four of the tills were open but we still had to queue for ages to be served. That’s why I like to go early.

grima port de granville harbour manche normandy franceOn the way out I’d noticed a load of stuff piled up at the quayside and so I reckoned that Grima was due in.

And I was right too. There she was on the way back, having the sacks of gravel or whatever they were hoisted aboard, giving her something of a list to starboard.

I hope that they had corrected that before she sailed.

Back here I had my coffee and then a little … errr … relax, before another session on the bass. ANd I ws working out a couple of Groundhogs and Hawkwind numbers – so intently tht I was surprised by how quickly the time passed.

After lunch, I was once more … errr … away with the fairies (I really don’t knwo what’s the matter with me these days) but pulled myself out of it and went for a walk instead.

large boat on the move granville manche normandy franceThere was quite a number of people out there this afternoon, even though the weather wasn’t the nicest. School holidays, apparently.

But I was distracted by movement down on the quayside just here. It seems that one of the large boats is being moved – and moved by road too. It’s a huge thing and they were having to take all kinds of special precautions.

Still, it all adds to the excitement of living here.

For tea tonight I had a frozen potato and lentil curry out of the freezer. And delicious it was too.

port de granville harbour manche normandy franceAnd that took me nicely round to my evening walk.

Cool and a little windy, with another marvellous view of Jersey, and also a marvellous view of the harbour here under the lights. You can see in this pic that when the gates are up and the water isn’t high enough to admit boats, there’s a couple of chequered poles visible, presumably to warn ships not to enter.

And there were crowds of people at the bar tonight. I wonder what’s going on there.

So if I’m lucky, I’ll have another early night. I’ll leave you to digest this … errr …. 1246 words.

Tuesday 30th January 2018 – I KNOW THAT I SAID …

HANGING CLOUD pointe du roc granville manche normandy france… that I would be going out this morning. But one look at the weather once it started to become light persuaded me otherwise.

We all know about hanging clouds as a phenomenon in the Auvergne, but they aren’t the kind of thing that you expect to see right on the coast, but here we are.

In the photo, taken at 16:00 or thereabouts, it had lifted quite considerably. But round about 08:30 to log after lunch you couldn’t see your hand in front of your face out there. And it was wet too as you might expect.

Just for a change I had a better night’s sleep again, although there wasn’t all that much of it.

Regular readers of this rubbish will recall that there are several recurring themes running through my nocturnal voyages. For a start, there’s a certain ski-slope that figures quite often, but another one concerns cars. And we were off again on that one last night. It actually started off with me having to dress myself one morning – and in women’s clothes too (and I’m not sure why either). This led to the obvious question of what do I wear?”. Dressing as a man, it’s always quite easy. Whatever is on th floor from the previous night – or week – or month.
But later on, Nerina and I were moving house and so we were packing. And this involved finding the cars. As some of you might recall, this recurring dream involves me having a pile of Ford Cortinas, some of which might be taxed and some of which might be insured and some of which might be MoT’d – but none of them with all three – parked up at random all over Crewe. And so with having to move house, we needed to round them up. Nerina managed to find one of them, which was an off-white coloured Austin Cambridge as it happened, but I couldn’t remember at all where I had put my brown Cortina 2000E (the one that’s actually in the garage in Montaigut-en-Combraille). And so off we went on another panic-stricken crisis search – something that seems to be a regular feature of my life.

Despite not going out today, I had a shower and cleaned myself up quite considerably. I look rather respectable now, which will come as a great surprise to anyone who knows me. And I spent all day on these photos – making another 23GB of space on my external hard drive by clearing away masses of duplicates.

waves crashing on sea wall port de granville harbour manche normandy franceI went out for my walk this afternoon in the drizzle seeing as the cloud had lifted a little.

And to my surprise, despite the hanging clouds, we had a mini-storm in the bay and the waves were crashing on the sea wall. Some of them were quite impressive but of course there weren’t any of those while I had the camera ready.

But that’s the story of everyone’s life, isn’t it?

bad parking pointe du roc granville manche normandy franceBut we’re back yet again on this dreadful parking that seems to be dominating our pages right now.

Here’s another car parked with two wheels on the pavement across the road from the school, blocking the pavement for the kids walking down the hill, and there’s an empty parking space right across the road from where she is parked.

It’s this kind of behaviour that really gets on my wick. There’s just no excuse for it.

Tea tonight was spectacularly good. With the rest of the bulghour stuffing from yesterday, I made some spicy kidney beans with yet more bulghour, onions, garlic, mushrooms, olives, tomato sauce and olive oil. And while a spicy rice was cooking itself with some peas and carrots, I rolled some of the stuffing into two tortillas and cooked them in the microwave.

Thoroughly, absolutely and totally delicious. And there’s enough stuffing left over for another couple of tortillas for tomorrow.

We had the usual walk this evening in the light drizzle and now I’m thinking about having an early night.

But not before I tell you about the experiments with the hi-fi. I need to move it to a more permanent place, and while I was measuring up (I need some more speaker cable and I have miles of it back on the farm of course) I tried to experiment by connecting the old speakers to it – the ones from the old hi-fi system that doesn’t work.

And the result was that it seems to be the speakers, not the hi-fi, that have given up the ghost. They were coming through muted and distorted like they did on the old set-up.

And so the next time that I’m moving things around, I’ll try the new speakers in the old hi-fi. And see what happens then. That was a very expensive hi-fi system and I don’t want to discard it lightly.

Sunday 7th January 2018 – HEROES!

us granville girondins bordeaux stade louis dior manche normandy franceThe players and officials of US Granville do a lap of honour around the pitch after their match against the Girondins of Bordeaux.

And quite rightly so, because they have just pulled off the Shock of the Century in French football. A part-time team playing Regional football in CFA2 North-West – the equivalent I suppose of the Conference North in the UK, have just knocked Premier League Bordeaux out of the French FA Cup.

And they made it look easy too.

Getting to the ground was quite something because the street was cordoned off and I had to drive miles to meet Terry. But we made it in plenty of time. And I was interviewed on France 3 too! My fame is spreading!

us granville girondins bordeaux stade louis dior manche normandy franceAnd it’s just as well that we got there early because the Stade Louis Dior was packed.

We ended up standing on the bank on the training ground looking aross at the pitch because it was the only really decent vantage point.

And we were treated to an event that I for one won’t ever forget.

I’d had another less-than-impressive night and despite it being Sunday I was wide-awake at 07:30.

Mind you, I’d been on my travels during the night, and a welcome return to our nocturnal rambles of Nerina and Zero. Formerly regular visitors but have been conspicuous by their absence for a while. Nerina and I were trying to book ourselves into a hotel in West London and having an inordinate amount of difficulty doing so, and I was close to losing my cool. Nerina suggested that we went for a walk to cool down, so we went outside and found ourselves aongst a large numger of Orthodox Jews who were diriving horses and carts laden with goods and produce pretty much as they might have done in the late 19th Century. We ended up walking along the towpath of a canal and Zero went skipping off with her head in the clouds. I was pointing out these tourist signs of historic object and the like and trying to interest her in them but like most kids of that age she was more interested in flowers and butterflies and the like.

I waited until 08:00 to leave the bed and by 09:00 I had breakfasted. And then – SHOCK! HORROR! I went working on a Sunday. I brought up the television and assembled it, and then had to do some rearranging of my living room to find a place to install it. That even involved some more vacuuming!

Configuring it was another thing – not helped by the fact that there were no batteries in the remote control and I had no fully-charged ones lying around. I’m short of good AAA batteries so I need to buy some more.

It took me ages to try to find the “DVD” switch on the remote control and in the end gave up. But I installed the DVD player anyway (and the remote control for that has stopped working) and much to my surprise the TV recognised automatically the signal from the DVD and started to play the disc.

So I sat and watched a film. And it really is nice to watch a DVD on a decent screen after all these years. 80cms is pretty big in my apartment.

And then the football.

Quite frankly, the Girondins of Bordeaux were abysmal. They had a midfielder by the name of Jérémy Toulalan. In his career he’s had 36 caps for France, transfer fees of almost €20,000,000 and when he was in Spain he was on a salary of €4.2 million. And yet if ever there was a player so disinterested in a match I have yet to see it, even in District football. In my own personal opinion he should have been ashamed of himself because it’s players like him who ought to be pulling his team up when they are down, not chickening out of the game.

If there ever was a gulf between the two teams, you would have said that it was Granville who were the Premier League team. They took the match by the throat and went on the rampage from the kick-off. And Bordeaux had no answer.

Had Granville’s finishing been any better they would have been 3-0 up after half an hour. They missed a penalty after 10 minutes and had two other shots at point-blank range either saved or blazed over the bar. And that’s not counting the shot that the keeper completely misjudged and had to hastily scramble over the bar to save a load of omelette sur le visage.

The Girondins of Bordeaux scored with their first attack after 37 minutes, but that was their best effort. US Granville’s keeper didn’t have too much to do.

In the second half, Granville came out as they went in – storming down the field driven on by the n°2 and the n°8 who had the games of their lives. And as the match progressed you could sense that it was not impossible that they might do something here.

And as we drifted into the final 5 minutes with Granville camped in the Bordeaux half the most amazing thing happened. The Girondins began to lose their discipline. We had a rash of yellow cards and then, totally inexplicably, the Girondins right-back put in a dreadful challenge on the Granville winger right out on the touchline. There was no need for it – the winger was going nowhere and it really was a vicious tackle. Result – a RED CARD.

Girondins of Bordeaux down to 10 men.

4 minutes of injury time and with 3:50 played, the Granville n°2 put in a low cross into the area. It took a wicked deflection, right into the path of a Granville attacker who sidefooted it straight into the empty net. He was probably more surprised than anyone else in the Stade Louis Dior.

The crowd was in raptures.

There was just enough time for Bordeaux to kick off before the referee blew for time.

No replays in France – we play on. And Bordeaux for once started to play. They looked quick and keen but by now Granville’s tail was up and they kept them out quite comfortably.

And then a break downfield. No fewer than two Girondin defenders missed the ball and it fell right in front of the Granville centre-forward. Surely he must score with an open goal – but a Bordeaux defender wrestled him to the ground.

Bordeaux now down to 9 men – and the penalty? Well, Stanislaus wasn’t going to miss aanother one. Granville take the lead – and they deserved it.

We haven’t finished yet. Granville, with a two-man advantage, burst forward yet again and a midfielder hauls him back by the shirt. The referee goes over to speak to the midfielder about it, and we will never know what the reply was. But it must have been good because the referee reached into his pocket and pulled out a straight RED CARD.

Bordeaux down to 8 men.

The rest is history. You can’t come back with just 8 men on the pitch and Granville hung on for the most unlikely victory which they richly desrved and did a lap of honour around the pitch.

The manager of the Girondins of Bordeaux said after the match “it was just one long nightmare of a Sunday afternoon”. His side, losing its cool like that and having three players sent off against a bunch of regional part-timers was disgraceful. US Granville came out of the game with credit.

We walked back to the car park and I drove home. Frozen to the marrow and I’m still cold now even though the heating is going full-blast and I cooked a pizza in the oven.

I’ll probably be ill for a week now, but ask me if I care? I’ve had a memorable afternoon and there won’t be another one quite like this.

Saturday 18th November 2017 – I WAS WELL …

… away last night.

Although it took a while for me to go off to sleep, once I’d gone I was well-and-truly gone and I remember nothing until the alarm went off.

That’s not quite true though. I’d been on my travels last night too. I started off in a businessand the local workhouse was parcelling off the orphan children into apprenticeships (I’ll have to stop reading these Old Bailey cases from the 1750s). I was allocated a young girl and I wasn’t sure of how I could best employ her to make the most of her apprenticeship.
From here I was with someone – who might even have been Nerina, and we were n an aeroplane. But the pilot, for some reason, lost control and the aeroplane crashed, right on the main road that rus from Brussels out to the Airport. Everyone survived the crash and managed to escape, but even though there was aviation fiel all over the place I had to go back into the aeroplane to rescue Strawberry Moose.

After the usual breakfast and a little relax, I went and had a good shower, a shave and a change of clothes too. And my little halogen heater works quite nicely in the bathroom too. And deciding to make the fullest opportunity of a nice clean me, I changed the bedding too and I’ll have a nice comfortable bed to sleep in tonight. And just as well too, because it’s Sunday and a lie-in.

Once I’d gathered my wits (which doesn’t take long these days) Caliburn and I went to the shops.

Regular readers of this rubbish will recall that just recently I’ve been walking up to LIDL and back, and so I decided to drive up the way that I came back on foot the other day. And much to my surprise, I was there in half the time without any queues and hold-ups at all. I’ll have to try this way again.

I didn’t spend anything special in there, but I made up for that later.

I called in at GIFI on the way out. It’s winter and with no pie huts at the football matches I’m freezing to death. And so I bought myself a thermos flask so that I could have some coffee to warm me up. And I bought a few other things too – but nothing exciting.

At the biocoop I bought some more vegan sausages and some sunflower seeds for the muesli, And next stop was NOZ. A few bits and pieces there too, including some sea salt. Not necessarily for the salt, but for the jars. They were those nice hexagonal ones that I like.

In the Auchan I didn’t spend anything special yet for some reason that I don’t understand my bill there came to almost €25:00 I’m not sure what I spent it on.

pisse dru beaujolais nouveau auchan granville manche normandy franceBut I did have a laugh as I was leaving. the Beaujolais Nouveau is now arriving in the supermarkets. The story behind the race to the market is that one year the crop was so awful that it didn’t last more than a couple of weeks so there was a rush to gt it to market and sell it before it spoiled on the shelves.

Here at Auchan my favourite beaujolais Nouveau was on offer and I consider its name to be extremely apt.

I couldn’t have called it anything better myself.

By the time I returned home it was 13:30, and by the time I’d unpacked, it was lunchtime.

After lunch I crashed out for a while – I’m clearly not doing very well these days, and then at 16:00 I hit the streets again – but on foot this time.

It took me ages to climb the hill up ast the railway station and I had to stop a couple of times to get my breath. Nevetheless, it was a mere 16:35 wwhenI arrived at the Stade Louis Dior.

stade louis dior us granville agneaux fc manche  normandy franceGranville’s 2nd XI, in blac, were taking on Agneaux FC, two places above them in Regional Lzague 2.

This was one of the most exciting matches that I have seen for quite some considerable time.

Granville took the lead after just 3 minutes. A ball upfield, the keeper shouting “leave it” and he ran out of his goal to kick it … right into the back of one of his own players

The ball bounced clear, right onto the path of an attacking Granville forward and with the keeper stranded, the attacker had the simplest of chances.

And then the match went in pells. We would have 10 minutes of Granville pressure followed by 10 minutes of Agneaux pressure, and then it would swing round again. Three good (if lucky) saves by the Granville keeper, Granville thumped the Agneaux woodwork twice, but the score didn’t increase.

We did have a minor interruption when there was a major car acident in the street outside.

The two clubs have changed position in the table after this result and that’s good news.

cite des sports us granville co sourdeval manche normandy franceAt the final whistle, a brisk walk took me round the corner and down the street to the Sports Centre, where US Granville’s 3rd XI was taling on CO Sourdeval. Granville are third bottom and Co Sourdeval are second from top, so I wasn’t expecting much.

The final result was 3-2 to Sourdeval and the only mystery about this match was how Sourdeval scored only three. Because Granville were pretty poor, clueless and totally disorganised.

Granville’s two goals were a free kick that confused everyone at the back post and a solo run from the halfway line by the centre-forward. But apart from that, they didn’t offer bery much.

I walked back here via the fritkot for a bag of chips, and then went straight to bed. I think that today has taken an awful lot out of me. At least my new flask played dividends.