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Saturday 20th March 2021 – I’VE HAD SOMETHING …

… of an aviation day today. There was a whole host of activity in the air this afternoon.

Boeing 777-328(ER) F-GSQL english channel Granville Manche Normandy France Eric HallIt seems that despite everything the long-haul transatlantic flights are back again and there were quite a few in the air over here. While I was out on my afternoon walk this one flew by over the English Channel at 18,000 feet slowly gaining height.

This is Air France flight AF54 flying from Paris Charles de Gaulle to Washington DC. The aeroplane is a Boeing 777-328(ER) registration F-GSQL. She’s quite an elderly machine by modern standards, having first flown in January 2006.

And her claim to fame is that she has two engines that were manufactured by my former employers, General Electric, although I don’t claim to have anything to do with them.

vans rv-4 f-paur point du roc Granville Manche Normandy France Eric HallAnd if that isn’t enough to be going on with, there was plenty more out there too.

This delightful multicoloured aeroplane is a Vans RV-4 registration number F-PAUR. These are kit-built aeroplanes supplied with Lycoming engines and you assemble them yourself. This one was assembled by someone called Joël Benete and took to the air on 9th March 1993, just one of about 1500 assembled since 1979.

She flew from Granville in a south-south-easterly direction and seems at this moment to be somewhere in the foothills of the Alps, not having moved for a couple of hours although there’s no airport around where she is.

When my alarm went off this morning I flew pretty quickly too, out of bed as the first alarm was still ringing. I have plenty to do today.

Not going to the shops though. I’m off to Leuven early Wednesday morning and so I’ll be eating what’s lying around here until I go. I have a hard enough time keeping food fresh here when I’m here to eat it.

I had the medication and then came back to have a listen to the dictaphone to see where I’d been during the night.

There was something about a group of British soldiers who had been imprisoned and brutalised, I’m not sure what they were doing or what had been done to them but this involved going on a trip to northern Scotland so we were going to fit in a visit to an ex-friend of mine on our way up. This involved driving all the way over the Pennines to the far north and turning right at Richmond and all that way north. A question of a shopping trip came up while we were away. Someone said that the south of France was the place to go so after we had dealt with this problem to the north we would head to the south od France. I thought to myself “this is a long way to be going in a day from here to the north and then down to the south of France” but I wasn’t too keen. I thought that it would have been better to have gone to the south of France first but I didn’t say anything. I thought to myself that I didn’t really want to do this and the fact that we were running so late would make it impossible anyway so I’ll just do it like they are telling me to do”. The question of a car came up. We decided that it would have to have 4 seats and 4 doors. Someone suggested “if the 2 of you are going why don’t you tale so-and-so’s mother?” I thought “she’s really going to enjoy this long trip sitting for hours in a car while we dash from the far north of England to the south of France but never mind, we’ll do it if that’s what hey want”.

Later on I was with another ex-friend of mine in Stoke on Trent and he was telling me about how he had no money and how even his wife’s sister had stopped paying some of his bills and so on. He said that I could stay there but I have to fend for myself because they can’t provide any food. I said “that’s not a problem”. For lunch I just had some dry bread off a baguette and I’d go out and buy some bread in the afternoon because it was pouring down now and I wasn’t really going anywhere. Later on in the afternoon I went outside for a walk and he and his wife came outside and said “come on, we’re ready”. There were cars parked everywhere, it was a new house that they had but there were cars parked all over the place. We had to manoeuvre one around and drive it from off the kerb inside where another one had been parked and onto the street. Just then a yellow van went past. He was obviously afraid that my friend was going to hit him so he shouted out a pile of abuse. We took no notice and parked this car up. Then the 3 of us walked into town. One of the girls, I can’t remember who she was but she was a small woman, she said that she had to go and fetch something. I said “I’ll come with you if you like” so she replied “OK”. She, someone else and I went into the lift and went downstairs. It was like a street market with all street market vendors selling their stuff. They had cameras marked “Ferrari”, all this kind of thing, in a kind of camouflage design. Trying to drag the kids out of there would have been really difficult. We were going to the theatre apparently and we needed badges to get in but this girl and I, we didn’t have them. She was going on about how all of the others were going to get into the theatre and we’ll end up having to pay again because we don’t have our badges. There had been some talk earlier about badges and I had a badge, a Boy Scouts badge. My friend and his wife were surprised because they knew that I had qualified but they didn’t know that I’d had it yet. I showed them but it was only very small. Another thing that he and I had been discussing was retirement, how we didn’t miss our old job. I said “I still think about it all the time, the horrible people which whom we worked”. He replied that he could do better than that and drew back the curtains. From his living room window you could see the building where we had worked, right across the valley.

What was so disappointing about this was that having had him and his wife accompanying me on a nocturnal ramble, where was Zero who has accompanied me on many a nocturnal ramble over the years – probably my most regular companion even if she hasn’t featured as much in these voyages as she did at one time?

That’s the kind of thing that fills me with dismay.

After all of that I sat down and started on the photos from Greenland. And after a Herculean effort this morning, right the way up to lunchtime, I’m now in a hotel in Toronto. Yes, I’ve finished all of the Greenland photos, all …gulp … 2330 of them.

That was a marathon session and no mistake

All that remains now is for me to finish off the final week when I was in North Dakota and then I can attack the 5000-odd from August 2019. That’s going to be something of a labour of love and no mistake.

After lunch I went out for my afternoon walk. And there was a reason for being out there earier than usual, which you will find out if you read on.

beach rue du nord plat gousset donville les bains Granville Manche Normandy France Eric HallBut retournons à nos moutons as they say around here, you’ve already seen the sky in those earlier aeroplane photos so you know the kind of day that we are having right now.

Despite the fact that it’s fairly cold and there’s something of a wind outside, we are having the best day of the year so far, at least, as far as sunshine goes. It’s gorgeous out here and it really is a surprise that there didn’t seem to be too many people about right now.

The beach is practically empty and that’s unusual in this kind of weather because even though there’s not much beach to be on, it’s a weekend and we are expecting a mass of Parisian second-home owners selfishly fleeing the new curfew in Paris and bringing the virus with them to infect all of us.

joly france english channel ile de chausey Granville Manche Normandy France Eric HallBut that’s probably where all of the tourists and second-home owners are at the moment and why they aren’t on the beach.

While I was looking out to sea I noticed something moving way out in the English Channel on its way to the Ile de Chausey so I took a photo with the aim of cropping and enlarging it when I returned home.

Sure enough, when I did that later I could see that it’s one of the Joly France ferries that plies between the port here and the Ile de Chausey. They’ve been quite quiet of late and haven’t seemed to be doing much work, but the Parisians fleeing the lockdown has probably caused a rise in demand for the service.

There are plenty of holiday homes on the island and those who can afford to rent one will have done so to escape the effects of the virus and the lockdown.

Druine D-5 f-pvqn pointe du roc Granville Manche Normandy France Eric HallThere have already been a few photos of aeroplanes that i’ve posted so far this afternoon, and I haven’t finished yet.

This aeroplane is F-PVQN and that tells me that she’s a Druine D-5. The rather elderly design tells us that she’s something special, and it turns out that it’s yet another kit-built aeroplane with a design from the 1950s. I don’t know how old she is but she’s construction number 09 and I’ve seen photos of her at the Paris Air Show in 1977 so she’s getting on a bit.

She hasn’t filed a flight plan so I can’t say where she’s going, and she doesn’t seem to have a radio beacon as she didn’t show up on my flight radar.

naabsa fishing boats fish processing plant port de Granville harbour Manche Normandy France Eric HallJust recently we’ve been seeing the odd fishing boat or two left high and dry by the tide over at the Fish processing Plant.

There was one there yesterday but they seem to have multiplied overnight, naughty little beasts, because there are three of them there this afternoon and I really have no idea why.

After my little walk around the headland it was time to scurry back to my bolt-hole here and make myself a coffee, and then settle down in front of the computer because the football had an early kick-off this afternoon, and we were treated to Bala Town v Caernarfon.

Bala Town are quite an attractive team to watch and have plenty of skill but while Caernarfon have nothing like the same amount of skill, they are actually the only team that play in the Welsh Premier League that actually play like a team rather than a collection of 11 assorted players.

Today was no exception because while Bala have a couple of dangerous attackers in Chris Venables and Will Evans and had the lion’s share of the first half, Caernarfon’s centre-backs snuffed Venables and Evans right out of the game. At half-time Bala were 1-0 up and that was the result of a deflected shot that Tibbetts in the Caernarfon goal would otherwise have saved.

In the second half Caernarfon played with much more confidence going forward and equalised after 10 minutes or so. The game then swung either way until with about 15 minutes to go Mike Hayes broke through and fired low into the corner of Bala’s goal for the winner. How he must have enjoyed scoring a goal against the club that released him last summer.

So a surprise win for Caernarfon in what was a thoroughly enjoyable match played in what was a really good spirit. A fine example for the League

After that I did some more work on my Central Europe trip last summer and then went for tea. In an effort to deal with some of the backlog of food I made a quick potato and mushroom curry, followed by the last of the apple pie.

Now I’m off to bed because I’m pretty much exhausted after today and I still haven’t given the living room a second go. So i’m hoping that a decent sleep and a good lie-in will see me right. Although I have a suspicion that it will take much more than that to see me right.

Friday 20th April 2018 – I MENTIONED YESTERDAY …

… that I would be talking much more … "much, much more" – ed … about the man from the Tunisian Tourist Board and his optional extras.

So here I am at 07:00 sitting in the hotel foyer waiting for a bus to come by.

And needing to heave myself out of my pit at some silly hour this morning, I was tucked up in bed with a film on the laptop at some silly hour last night.

But nevertheless, as seems to be the usual procedure these days, I didn’t make it to the end of the film. In fact, far from it.

And it was rather a disturbed night too with me being unable to settle down into a deep sleep, what with the pressure of having to be up early in the morning. But that still didn’t prevent me from being on my travels.

So during the night we had to wait for the convoy to come and pick us up, and here it was arriving at some time earlier than the 07:15 promised. The convoy consisted of a couple of armoured cars with one of these armoured personnel carriers, painted orange, in between. And we waited (and waited, and waited) to be called. It was then that I realised that I didn’t have an important item of clothing with me and I needed to go home for it. It was a good 5-10 minutes up the hill to Virlet and then I had to find what I needed and come back again of course, and it was already 07:19 and I was nowhere near arriving at my house yet so I doubted very much if I would be back in time. I didn’t think that they would wait that long for me.

But the question didn’t arise because the alarm went off at 05:55 and again at 06:00 and I was awake and out of bed more-or-less promptly. By 06:30 I was downstairs with my rucksack all nicely packed and trying to track down some food. There’s a bar by the swimming pool that opens at, would you believe, 03:00 and he rustled up some toast and coffee, as well as a bottle of water for the journey.

The bus was due at 07:00 so at 07:30 I asked the receptionist if it was normal that he would be this late.

“Ohh yes” he reassured me. “Quite normal”. I could have had a normal breakfast had I known

When he finally arrived and picked me up we headed off

sousse tunisia africaWe had to go via a couple of other hotels and pick up a few more people, and then we threaded our way through the streets of the outskirts of Sousse and into the interior of the country.

Once we were out of the tourist zones and the city centre, we noticed a marked decline in the standard of living of the general public.

Despite what people tell you, not all of the wealth cascades down to the bottom of the pile and there are some who are less-fortunate than others.

That’s not to say that there is no sign of economic progress in the region.

There’s still a good deal of house-building going on around here. The “flight to the towns” that was a symbol of the dissolution of rural life in Western Europe in the 1950s and 1960s is happening here too,

Especially as the desert continues its relentless march onwards and overwhelms little by little many of the more-isolated rural communities.

Regular readers of this rubbish will recall that I’ve mentioned … "many, many times" – ed … the fact that the climate today is much different than it was in antiquity.

agriculture sousse tunisia africaNorth Africa was much wetter than it is today and there wasn’t as much desert.

Agriculture was much more prominent and the region was the major source of supply of many of the agricultural products of the Roman Empire – the “Bread Basket of Rome”.

Even today there’s a considerable agricultural output from the region as you can see, and I’m not just talking about olives, dates and figs.

So just imagine what this region must have looked like 2000 years ago when agriculture was at its height.

bus to desert kairouan tunisia africaWe came to the town of Kairouan where we needed to change to another bus that was going to take us on the rest of our journey.

The plan was that we should have had enough time to visit the Great Mosque there but with running so late the bus that was going to meet us was already there and the driver was keen to depart.

And I can’t say that I blamed him either. It’s a long way to where we are going.

mosque kairouan tunisia africaBut I haven’t come all this way to be thwarted, I’ll tell you that. I’ll get to have a look at the mosque, even if it’s only from the outside.

It’s an absolutely magnificent edifice and so I have to look for a decent vantage point to take a photo because the most obvious one has the sun streaming into the lens.

So around the corner using another building as a sun blind I can at least manage to do something.

It was however a huge disappointment not to be able to visit the interior of the mosque because it is one of the most important and one of the oldest religious edifices in the whole of the Islamic world.

Tunisia was invaded by the Arabs in the latter years of the 7th Century and by 670AD – which is Year 50 in Muslim dating – they were firmly established here in Kairouan which they used as their main base of operations.

And it was in this year that the construction of the Great Mosque began. And it doesn’t have the sobriquet “Great” for nothing because it covers an area of over 9,000 square metres and a perimeter of over 400 metres. The minaret is about 31 metres high.

It became the inpsiration and the basis of the design of almost every other mosque in North Africa and is said to use earliest know example of a “horseshoe arch.

As well as being the centre of religious teaching in Western North Africa (the Maghreb) it also had a reputation of being a great centre of secular learning and in the 10th and 11th Century was said to have one of the most impressive libraries in the world.

One book that was held here was the legendary “Blue Koran”, described by the Brooklyn Museum as being “one of the most extraordinary luxury manuscripts ever created.”. But like the rest of the contents, it was pillaged and dispersed by the Ottomans when they overran the area in 1534.

kairouan tunisia africaAs for the town itself, there was very little here before the Arabs arrived, and it was they who built the city.

The inland site was chosen because the Mediterranean coast was still subject to surprise raids by the Byzantine fleet, and it also controlled the exit of a couple of mountain passes to the west that were stil lin the hands of the Berbers, so it could stem any counter-invasion from that direction.

It still retains much that is of great historical value and became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1988. in 2009 it was proclaimed the “Capital of Islamic Culture”.

And I suppose that you are wondering why the mosque isn’t situated in the centre of the Medina, as you might expect.

The answer is that it was when construction started, but as the fame of the city grew, it expanded rapidly and by the 9th Century the town is said to have had over 100,000 inhabitants. However, the topography to the north (riddled with wadis) limited expansion in that direction.

The rapid expansion of the city exhausted the nearby drinking water supplies and a whole system of artificial aquaducts and reservoirs was constructed, the remains of which are still clearly visible today (if we had time to go to visit them), to bring water from the mountains.

artillery cannon medina kairouan tunisia africaThe place is also littered with souvenirs and artefacts of warfare.

Being one of the principal cities in the Maghreb it was a target of many an invading army.I’ve mentioned the Ottoman Turks invading here, and the city was also a fanatical centre of resistance to the French “liberators” in 1881.

In fact the resistance was to such an extent that the French never really quite felt in full control of the region in all the time that they were here.

Eventually we all leap aboard the bus, which is almost full to capacity, and head off out of town.

street market kairouan tunisia africaIt’s market day today, as usual, and everyone has set out his or her stall in the marketplace.

And it’s not just the typical meat and veg either. Kairouan has a couple of claims to fame, firstly for its patisseries and secondly, with the town being surrounded by sheep, for its woollen products, especially woven wool carpets.

And talking of wool, it reminds me of when Lux, the washing soap people, launched a new product with the advert “if it’s safe in water, it’s safe in Lux”.
I wrote back to them “I’d like to talk to you about my goldfish …”

taxi louage cimetierre kairouan tunisia africaThis roundabout is very close to the dead centre of Kairouan, which you can see in the background.

As for the vehicles though, you will probably have guessed that the yellow vehicles are taxis, but the white minibuses with the red stripe are something of a cross between taxis and buses. They are called louages.

They sort-of follow a fixed route (although deviations are quite the normal thing, especially if a passenger starts to wave about some of the folding stuff).

They don’t follow a fixed timetable either. They set off when the driver thinks that he has enough people aboard, and stop and wait when he hasn’t.

roundabout kairouan sousse gabes gafsa tunisia africaAt this roundabout we pick up the ring road around the town.

There’s a sign here for Sousse but we aren’t going back to there. We’re taking the road to Gafsa, and I suppose I’d better tell you why.

Regular readers of this rubbish will recall that we have had a miserable winter. It’s been wet like a wetness that I have never seen – only 4 dry days between the end of October and the end of March, floods everywhere, and I’m thoroughly fed up.

So much so that I said to quite a few people that I’m going to find a way of getting to the desert and then I’m going to sit in it.

Seeing the advert for this week away in Tunisia was one thing, but that’s not enough to satisfy me. It’s a shame to come all of this way and not take the final step.

So when the Tourist guide came to the hotel yesterday I asked him how I could go to the desert.

At first he refused to give me any details. “Your Government won’t allow your citizens to travel to the interior”
“Why’s that?” I asked.
“They are nervous about the situation down there.”
“That’s strange”
“Yes, but the Belgian Government is very protective of its citizens”
“Belgian? I’m not Belgian”.
“But you came with a party of Belgians that booked with a Belgian Travel Agent in a hotel that is primarily for Belgian clients”
“That’s as maybe, but that’s because I happened to be in Belgium when I saw the advert”
“So what nationality are you?”
“British” I replied, brandishing my passport.
“British? They you’re lucky. You are one of the few countries who are allowed to travel”.

There was a revolution in Tunisia 7 or so years ago, and this seemed to reinforce the Arab control over the country, which means that the Berbers, the Bedouins, the Touaregs and a few other minorites down south are not too impressed.

Furthermore, the south of Tunisia is like a finger that points in between Algeria and Libya. In both those countries there are some anti-Government forces and when the pressure is too hot for them they step over the border into Tunisia for a little peace and quiet.

Although this might sound like a tense situation, everyone involved in any kind of discontent knows that the only money that comes into the south of the country these days comes from the tourists.

Frighten away the tourists and you stop the flow of money and everyone suffers. So apart from the odd madman which you find in every walk of life in every country in the world, there’s no real issue for the tourists.

Statistics go to show that you stand much more chance of being killed by a madman with a legally-held firearm in a school in the USA or on a beach in Florida than you do here.

And as if that would stop me anyway.

“There’s a bus going from Hammamet into the desert tomorrow for two days but as there are a few people from the hotels in Sousse and Monastir who are allowed to go, we’ve arranged a feeder bus. We’ll arrange for it to come for you too”.

So here I am, with, as far as I can gather, a pile of Brits, a few French, a couple of Pakistanis and a Hungarian. And Uncle Tom Cobbleigh and all, for all I know.

kasserine pass tunisia africaNow this is an exciting sign.

The name of Kasserine certainly rings a bell. There’s a mountain pass behind it that leads through the mountains into Algeria that you won’t ever find an American mentioning.

In November 1942 during World War II the US Army had landed on the coast of Morocco and Algeria in what was known as Operation Torch.

With the British 8th Army pushing along the coast westwards from Libya, the idea was to catch the German Army in a pincer movement here in Tunisia between the mountains and the sea.

So this involved the Americans making a dash for the Kasserine Pass before the Germans could reach there and fortify it.

But, typically for the Americans, they wouldn’t make a movement before all of their supplies and home comforts had arrived. And when they finally set off, they were lulled by their inexperience, naivité and overconfidence into a false sense of security.

They arrived at the Kasserine Pass with a kind of innocence that was quite touching, totally unaware of the fact that the Germans had arrived there first, and when they marched through the Pass quite nonchalantly the Germans set upon them and devastated them.

General Omar Bradley called the battle “a disaster” and said “It was probably the worst performance of U.S. Army troops in their whole proud history” – which presumably includes the abject surrender of Detroit on 16th August 1812 which a Vermont Newspaper, the “Green Mountain Farmer” described at the time as “disaster, defeat, disgrace, and ruin and death” and for which General Hull, the officer in charge of the post, was tried by court-martial and sentenced to death, and also the flight of the US Army from Washington DC and its total abandonment to the British who burnt it to the ground on 24th August 1814.

General Ernest Harmon wrote “It was the first—and only—time I had ever seen an American army in rout”

However we didn’t head to Kasserine, which was a pity. We continued on in the direction of Gafsa.

eucalyptus trees tunisia north africaBut we were still heading towards the mountains nevertheless. Our route was planning to take us into the foothills of the Atlas Mountains at the very least.

And you’ll notice the change in vegetation too. The climate is becoming much more arid and even the olive trees were starting to have a hard time of it.

And you’re probably thinking that these don’t look like olive trees. And neither did I, so I enquired. Our guide told us that there are gommier – gum trees – imported from Australia. I wonder if he means “eucalyptus”?

phosphate mine tunisia africaOne thing that you’ll find out here on the edge of the desert is a large assortment of mines and quarries, although you might not notice it in this photo (taking photos inside a bouncing bus isn’t very easy)..

Tunisia has enormous resources of phosphates, some of the richest in the world, and we are, apparently, driving along the phosphate belt of the country.

To give you some idea of the amount of the stuff, of 11,000,000 tonnes of freight carried by Tunisian railways in 2007, 8,000,000 tonnes of that was phosphates. One company alone (admittedly, with several mines and quarries) accounted for 10% of the country’s exports and 4% of its GDP.

oasis parc café jelma tunisia africeShortly after this we reached the town of Jelma, and here on the outskirts of the town was a roadside café, the “Oasis Parc”.

This looked a little out of place here. The baked adobe finish looked more like something that you might see in Mexico or the US border states.

But no matter. We’ve been on the road for hours so I can’t say that I was sorry to stop here for a coffee etc. We certainly needed it, some more than others.

police patrol oasis parc café jelma tunisia africaBut one thing that I had noticed was that the café was situated within the walls of its own little compound, and not long after we had pulled in, the gate was closed behind us.

There was however time for me to go for a peep to the outside, and sure, enough we were not alone.

A police van thing had pulled up outside and two evidently military men with automatic weapons were on patrol outside. “A taste of things to come” I mused to myself. Evidently the farces of law and order have less faith in the locals than I do.

Back on the road once more and we continued on our merry, mazy way into the foothills of the Atlas.

And I must have dozed off at some point (which is hardly a surprise given the early start) because I didn’t make much of a note of things that were going on.

abandoned hyundai kia pickups tunisia africaBut I must have been shocked into life at one moment or other in order to see some more abandoned vehicles by the roadside.

The red van at the back is a Berlingo-type of vehicle but the rest seem to be either Kias or Hyundais and they look as if they have been there for a considerable amount of time.

There’s quite a few of them as you can see, so I wonder what the story is behind them.

restaurant orbata gafsa tunisia africaIt must have been a good while that I was away with the fairies because the next thing that I knew was that it was lunchtime.

We’re on the edge of the town of Gafsa, at a place called the Restaurant Orbata.

And I was in luck here because when I explained to the manager about my meal, he had the chef rustle me up a plate of couscous and vegetables cooked in oil with an extra helping of bread.

I’m not going to complain about that.

gafsa palace hotel tunisia africaBack outside afterwards, there were a few minutes left for me to go for an exploration.

The restaurant is part of some kind of complex related to the Gafsa Palace Hotel, and splendid pile this one looked too, just like something out of the Arabian Nights.

And you’ll notice the big, heavy gates here too, although there were none at our restaurant.

peugeot pickup nissan navara gafsa tunisia africaBut never mind all of that right now. I was much more intrigued by this vehicle.

You con’t have seen one of these in Western Europe because despite the success of the legendary 403, 404 and 505 pick-ups, Peugeot seems to have abandoned the pick-up market there.

Not so in North Africa though, where a new generation or Peugeot pick-ups is available. And not so in China where the Peugeot pick-up platform is shared with a Dongfeng offering, and surprisingly, neither in North America where it’s marketed as the Nissan Navara (albeit with a few styling changes).

gafsa tunisia africaOnce more unto the breach, dear friends. And here at Gafsa we headed off around the ring road and into the Atlas Mountains.

At least driving around the ring road gave us an opportunity to study the city of Gafsa. Not that there’s much to study from this viewpoint unfortunately, even though there’s a great deal of history attached to the place.

No-one knows the origins of the settlement here. It was certainly occupied during far antiquity, and the remains of some kind of very primitive leather workings that have been discovered have been dated to at least 8500 years ago.

It was an important crossroads (a role that it still carries on today) for the Romans, where the road from what is today Algeria bursts out of the mountains on its way to Libya crosses with the road down which we have just travelled from the coast to the oases of the interior.

And it is believed by some to have been the site of the Phoenician city of Utica, although this is hotly disputed by many others

Such was its status in Roman times that it was granted the position of a colonia, and called Capsa.

gafsa tunisia africaYou won’t find any Roman remains here though. When the city was occupied by the Byzantines, who gave it the name of Justiniana, they totally razed the Roman city and used the stones to build a defensive wall.

But despite the absence of any Roman remains, the extent of the city can be gauged by the fact that is recorded in contemporary texts that various important spectacles took place here.

So there must have been at least a large theatre, if not an amphitheatre.

Despite the Byzantine walls, the city fell to the Arabs in 688. But not without what was recorded in Arab texts as a “fanatical defence” (we seem to be meeting a lot of “fanatical defence” in this region).

And even after its fall the inhabitants refused to integrate with their new masters and it is said that even as late as the 11th Century many of the inhabitants had still not converted to Islam and were still speaking Latin.

gafsa tunisia africaIt has several rather sinister claims to fame too.

  • In 1907 a French regiment refused to obey orders to suppress a series of demonstrations against the French Government in the Languedoc region of France, having been shocked by the brutal manner in which another French regiment had fired on the unarmed demonstrators and killed several. As a punishment, they were transferred here to Gafsa to sweat it out in the desert.
  • On 27th January 1980, a Libyan Army brigade, including a good number of Tunisian dissidents, having entered the country clandestinely, seized control of the city and invited the inhabitants to rise up against the Government, while the Libyan Army took up a threatening position on the border to distract the Tunisian Army. The population refused to rise up and eventually the Government regained control of the city, but not without a good deal of sabre-rattling from the Libyans and the Algerians who objected to the presence of French military advisers helping out the Tunisians.
  • In 2008 there was a general strike here that was put down by the Government with great brutality, and the subsequent discontent simmering away is said to have been one of the factors that led to the Revolution of 2011.
  • In 2014, at the height of Ramadan, it was discovered that an abandoned quarry had transformed itself into an oasis following the eruption of an underground spring. Even though the Catholic Church informs us that miracles only happen in Catholicism and never in Islam, the fact that this was observed at Ramadan calls into question the claims by the Catholic Churchof their monopoly of miracles.


Just beyond Gafsa we had our first encounter with a serious military presence.

We’d seen the odd military patrol here and there on our travels to date, but this was a proper road block and checkpoint. We had no issues, being allowed straight through, but from what I saw, almost every other vehicle on the road was being pulled over and searched.

And this is how it continued for the rest of our journey. Had I been in a private car and not an official Tunisian Government Tourist Board coach, I would have been well-fed up by the end of the day.

metre gauge railway line sncft sousse tozeurI mentioned a short while ago the phosphate mines and the Tunisian railway network – the SNCFT, or Société National des Chemins de Fer de Tunisie.

This whole area is honeycombed with phosphate deposits and the output is taken to the ports on this metre-gauge railway line that runs all the way to the oasis of Tozeur.

There’s a passenger railway service too that runs through the night from Sousse to the oasis, and that was my Plan B if I could find no other way of going to the interior.

scrapyard metlaoui tunisia north africaBut never mind the desert and the scenery and the railway line for the moment – this is much more like my idea of scenery isn’t it?

Even in North Africa they can’t make cars go on for ever and I bet that there’s some really good stuff down at the far end of that scrapyard.

This is the kind of place that would have attracted my attention for some considerable time, as poor Nerina would have testified. She always had something of a difficult time on our many journeys around Europe.

abandoned railway metlaoui tunisia africaHere and there around the town of Metlaoui are some very rich deposits of phosphates, but many of the extraction sites have been closed and the railway branches abandoned

In fact, it was the closure of some of these sites and the subsequent job losses in 2007 and 2008 that led to the civil discontent in Gafsa which I mentioned earlier.

The continued uncertainty around here coupled with issues across the border are what have led to the more visible presence of the farces of law and order beyond Gafsa

But this is why there isn’t any great issue with the tourists. With the winding-down of the phosphate economy, the tourists are playing a more vital role in the economy of the area and no-one wants to chase them and their money away.

camel herd tozeur tunisia africaNow this is the kind of thing that really gives you the hump, isn’t it?

You can tell just how deep in the desert we are even here when you start to notice the herds of camels.

Beasts of burden have long-since given way to motorised transport wherever it is possible to do so, but there’s still a place for a camel train once you go deep into the desert and it won’t be far now before the road peters out.

oasis palm trees tozeur tunisia africaI said that Tozeur was a small town situated at an oasis in the desert, didn’t I?

Now just look at all those trees over there in the distance. The town, and the end of the road, is down there somewhere in amongst those trees and that’s our destination for today.

At one time there were 200 different water sources and as many as 400,000 trees but with the change in climate, both the sources and the trees are slowly starting to dry out and use of the water is now controlled.

horse and cart tozeur tunisia africaOn arrival in the city we were dropped off at what passes for a kind of taxi rank. We were going to visit one of the groves in the oasis, but by horse and carriage.

All of this is included in the price, so I was informed, so who am I to refuse?

We poured out of the tour bus an into a carriage. I ended up sharing with a couple from Paris and their little daughter.

collapsed wheel bearing horse and cart tozeur tunisia africaI say “carriage”, but I do use the term rather loosely. These are what might have passed for carriages 100 years ago.

And an enormous amount of hilarity ensued when the wheel bearing of one of them collapsed and the wheel, passengers and guide were decanted into the street. And we hadn’t gone more than five yards either.

A few other wheel bearings also looked rather shaky too, including ours. I hoped that it would last out until we got back.

And the same applied to the horse. I’ve seen healthier-looking beasts hanging up on a hook in a butcher’s shop.

eden palm hotel tozeur tunisia africaSo while we are trotting off down an alleyway and past one of the 200 water sources on our way to the oasis, let me tell you a little about the town.

It goes without saying that with it being one of the largest oases in the whole of North Africa, it’s been inhabited for thousands of years. There is certainly evidence to suggest that the Capsienne civilisation, which expired around 6000 BC was present at the oasis.

The town was a Carthaginian outpost called Tisourous and when the Romans ovethrew the Carthaginian Empire it became the fortified Roman city of Thusuros. And there’s plenty of evidence of Roman remains here too, There was even an early Christian church, the remains of which have been incorporated into the mosque..

It fell to the Arabs during their invasion of the late 7th Century and subsequently became another great intellectual centre where even poets thrived.

Tourism has long been known in this area too and one of the earliest of the modern genre of travel writers, Thomas Shaw, wrote about his visit here in 1730.

bananas oasis tozeur tunisia africaToday, the economy revolves around agriculture, with the region famous for its date crop,

And not only that, if you look very carefully at the lower right quadrant of this image you’ll see a bunch of bananas. They can even make those grow here, but it’s not a particularly profitable crop by any means.

However, whatever you do, don’t make jokes about bananas within the hearing of the Tunisian police. It’s a sensitive subject.

spring water source oasis tozeur tunisia africaAnd while you admire one of the water sources here in the grove that we visited, I’ll tell you that another commercial enterprise for which Tozeur is well-known is its brick factory.

It still makes bricks of the traditional style, and in the traditional manner too. At the last count, there were 20 families earning their living at the brickworks.

There is also of course tourism, although most of the tourists are merely passing through, just as we are. This causes some dismay amongst the locals who with that the Tourist Board would do something about attracting long-stay tourists to the area isntead of the overnighters.

shade of palm trees grove oasis tozeur tunisia africaReturning to our moutons as they might say in Francophonia, this grove really was a fantastic place to be.

It’s difficult to imagine that we were deep in the desert just here with all of the trees growing around us. It was relatively cool in the shade

But even so, there were several signs of decayed and fallen trees around here. It did make me wonder how long the water supply would last out.

FIAT OM XOn the way back to town, we were overtaken by another historic vehicle of the type that you won’t see these days in Europe.

This is an old OM – Officine Meccaniche – lorry and the fact that it’s badged as a FIAT indicates that it most likely dates from the period 1968 – 1975.

And if that’s a plastic grille it indicates that it’s a “later” rather than an “earlier” model.

I asked about the Islamic script in the centre of the windscreen as I’d seen many vehicles displaying it, and was told that it’s an exhortation to Allah.

sahara desert tozeur tunisia africaOur horses and carts dropped as all off at yet another taxi rank, this time where there was a queue of some rather elderly 4×4 Land Cruisers.

The second part of our early evening, because it was now rather late in the day, adventure, likewise included in the price of our excursion, was a trip out into the desert

And this pleased me greatly. After the winter that we had had, I promised myself the desert, and here I am.

toyota land cruiser sahara desert tozeur tunisia africaAnd the road that we took was not an easy one either, although I suspect that we came this way more for effect rather than for necessity

Nevertheless, it certainly made for an exciting trip and it did produce some wonderfully photogenic moments as we swerved up and down some really difficult desert terrain.

It was certainly not for the faint-hearted but I hoped that we were going to come back this way so that I could retrieve my stomach.

mirage sahara desert tozeur tunisia africaEveryone has heard of the phenomenon of the mirage in the desert, and one of the best in the whole of North Africa is said to be found here on the outskirts of Tozeur.

That’s not a lake of course, as became apparent when we went to drive down that valley. It really is a mirage.

And if you enlarge the image by clicking on it, you’ll see just how realistic it looked.

A little further on we had the fisrt glimpse of our destination.

And I imagine that even though you didn’t know where it was, you’ll all recognise what it is.

And all of the tracks that lead down there into the wadi will show you that it’s a very popular destination, especially with tourists who travel hundreds of miles to come here.

mos espa star wars film location nefta tunisia africaWhere we are is about 20 miles from the Algerian border near a village called Nefta.

Right out here miles from anywhere (except the Algerian border) is the mythical Huttite city of Mos Espa, the film set from the later series of George Lucas’s “Star Wars” films.

We’ve picked the wrong day to be here though. We should have been here on May the Fourth.

mos espa star wars film location nefta tunisia africaThere are no Jedi here today though. And no Pizza the Hut either for that matter.

Just an enormous numbers of souvenir sellers and the like trying to take advantage of the gullible tourists. Even I could see that the desert amethysts and other precious stones were fakes.

You can have your photograph taken with a whole variety of misshapen flea-infested animals too, but at a price of course.

mos espa star wars film location nefta tunisia africaIt’s interesting to see how the village was constructed.

The buildings have a wooden framwork and are then built up with fibreglass, then given a rough finish to resemble clay or adobe.

Having been engulfed in numerous sandstorms, including one during filming, the buildings are in a very poor state of repair and I don’t imagine that they will be lasting all that much longer.

We drove back to Tozeur from here.

And I was right about the route into the desert. Just around the corner was the main, metalled road to the Algerian border and coming back was nothing like as exciting as the way out.

hotel ras el ain tozeur tunisia africaWe had been booked in to stay at the Ras El Ain hotel, which looked as if it was one of the ones that had been built for the luxury tourism boom that was anticipated in the early 1990s

If you thought that the one in Sqanes is luxury you should see the Hotel Ras El Ain here. I can honestly say that I have never ever in my life had such luxury. This really is the Last Word in holiday accommodation.

But I’m not going to have the time to enjoy it. We’re getting up at … errr … 04:00 and we’ll be on the road at 05:00.

And while I’m asleep, you can sit quietly and read today’s blog entry. A marathon, mammoth world record of 5875 words.

Saturday 7th October 2017 – STRIDER’S FIRST …

strider towing tralier centreville new brunswick canada october octobre 2017… tow job.

And it very likely was too, because all of the electrics on the trailer plug were totally corroded. It took an hour to clean them off and grease them.

And in the end, we only had direction indicators too, but that was good enough to go.

Here in Canada, recycling is big business. And I do mean “business” too. Most of the glass bottles and plastic containers require a deposit, and there’s cash to be earned from aluminium soft drinks cans too.

But remembering where you bought each article and taking them back to the correct shop is a nightmare, so some enterprising people have set up central collection points where you can take your empties, they redeem them from you, and they handle the returns to the various shops.

Amber is fundraising for a school trip to Washington DC in the Spring so she’s been collecting from friends and neighbours. Today, we loaded everything into the small enclosed trailer, under the careful supervision of one of the mill cats, and took it down to the Centre in Bristol.

And you’d be surprised how much we earned too!

It wasn’t as easy as it sounded too. The trailer was stuck deep in the undergrowth and I had to attach a chain to Strider to pull it out.

And then the tow ball was the wrong size so we had to find a smaller one and swap them over. And then the electrics.

Rachel came with us so Strider also had his first rear-seat passenger. There are a couple of pop-up dickey seats in the half-cab at the back and Amber perched on one of those. She refused to travel in the cage.

Another thing as well was that despite being out of practice, not having done it for years, I reversed the trailer exactly where I needed it to be, and on several occasions too, quite often into very small gaps. I was proud of that.

I wasn’t quite right about last night though. Cujo the Killer Cat didn’t come to bed after me. She was in fact already on the bed and waiting for me, which was quite nice. And she stayed for quite a while too.

But I didn’t though. I was off on various nocturnal rambles during the night.

We started off last night somewhere out on the Outer Banks but I don’t now remember exactly what I was doing out there. But anyway I quickly moved on to driving a coach full of young school kids to some kind of science laboratory where they were having some kind of lessons. I had to clean out the coach and found a huge pile of animal hair in the form of a long grey and white tail. It was many metres long and quite valuable too so I collected it up to put in one of the lockers at the side. Having done that, I went into school to say that I was ready to leave, and gave my journey number, which was one of the 6 that began with a figure “4” but the receptionist had said that all of the “4” journeys had gone -which was definitely not the case, for my next trip to the laboratory was another one of the “4” trips, so that hadn’t even arrived.
A little later I was in a car heading to the north of Manchester – a rough area – so I had a CB radio with me. I was chatting to a few people and they began to ask me questions, about what my car looked like and so on. I knew that soon I would have to stop for fuel so I started to give them all kinds of false details about me and the car so that we wouldn’t be recognised.
The discussion moved on then to another erstwhile taxi owner who had never been particularly successful and had fallen foul of the taxi licensing laws. He had been allowed to start again with just one car but hadn’t been successful and I was trying to buy him out. But the discussion concerned his own ineptitude and incompetence.

After our return from the Recycling Centre, I had to go shopping. And come back and go again because, in the kind of thing that only I can do, I forgot to take any money.

A shower, shave and clean clothes were next, and then we attacked the Thanksgiving meal. 14 of us, there were, and we made tons of food, much of which wasn’t eaten and went into the fridge. And then Rachel and I attacked the mountains of washing up.

Although it’s early, I’m in bed. I’m totally exhausted and I’ve crashed out twice already. I managed just enough effort to put a pile of clothes in the wash, and that’s my lot until the morning

Saturday 30th September 2017 – AS I MIGHT HAVE SAID …

hatteras ferry north carolina usa september septembre 2017 … the other day, North Carolina is a ferry-spotter’s paradise.

We haven’t finished with them yet by any means, because now that we are on Ocracoke Island, we still have to get off.

There is more than one way to skin a cat, and one of the ways is to take the ferry over to Cape Hatteras. We’ve done that before, but so what?

bluff shoal motel ocracoke usa september septembre 2017While you admire the photo of my little home-from-home, let me tell you about my night.

I was dead to the world, that’s for sure, and our first nocturnal visitor was Michel from the football club – telling me everything that had gone wrong at the football club – just like he had done once in te Auchan in Montlucon.

As for our next visitor, it was either Nerina, Laurence or Cécile.And we were in my house, or whatever house that it was where I was living. It was up forsale although you would never have thought so with the mess – and someone came to see it. It was Christiane (what is she doing here?). My partner showed her round the ground floor and abandoned me to leave me to show her around the cluttered upstairs, even though I didn’t have a clue what I was doing. I took her outside and showed her the jungle that was the grounds. She said that the car parking didn’t correspond to what she needed, so I showed her my idea which would have suited her – except that I kept on getting it wrong when I was trying to explain. After she had left I was sitting in the garden when my Inuit guide from Mulligan came in. He had a chain saw and began to cut up logs lengthways ready to sut them “across”. I was thinking to myself that I could do that, and there were plenty of other things that he would have been more profitably employed in doing.

My porridge didn’t take long to cook in the slow cooker, and I was away pretty smartish by 09:15, complete with free coffee from the motel.

ocracoke island hatteras ferry north carolina usa september septembre 2017A leisurely drive took me down to the far end of the island where I didn’t have to wait too long for a ferry.

You don’t here, by the way. There’s a regular shuttle service and there’s quite a rapid service, especially at this time of the year.

Had I come by here tomorrow, it would have been a different matter because they are going over to the winter timetable.

ocracoke island hatteras ferry north carolina usa september septembre 2017One thing that takes some getting used to is the route that the ferry takes.

This distance between Hatteras and Ocracoke island doesn’t look very much, but it takes 40 minutes to do the route, because you have to go in a rather exaggerated “S” route between the islands.

The channels across Pamlico Sound are quite shallow and despite the low draught of these boats, they can still easily run aground if they get it wrong.

ocracoke island hatteras ferry north carolina usa september septembre 2017The channel is marked for the entire length with marker buoys and signs, like these just here.

You can’t see for the sun unfortunately, but the buoys are marked red and green, for “port” and “starboard” just like a ship’s lights, but I was convinced that on occasion the ferry was passing to the wrong side.

But the channel and the sandbanks change after each storm so that’s not a surprise.

pelican pamlico sound north carolina usa september septembre 2017A wonderful bird is the pelican,
His bill will hold more than his belican,
He can take in his beak
Enough food for a week
But I’m damned if I see how the helican.

and what does a pelican have in common with an Income-Tax Collector?
Well, they can bot shove their bills up their @r$e$

hatteras north carolina usa september septembre 2017Only seven or so cars on the ferry so it didn’t take long to unload. And we were soon belting off northwards up Hatteras Island.

The village of Hatteras itself is quite pretty and probably well-worth a poke around on another occasion, but i don’t have that much time.

I want to be north of Chesapeake Bay by tonight and it’s a long way to go.

cape hatteras lighthouse north carolina usa september septembre 2017We do have to stop at some point because even though we’ve seen it before, we have to go to look at Cape Hatteras Lighthouse.

It’s the most famous construction on the whole of the Outer Banks.

Mind you, the Outer Banks just here are quite famous if you are a mariner. Not for nothing is Cape Hatteras known as “The Graveyard Of The Atlantic” with the amount of ships that have come to grief here.

old site of cape hatteras lighthouse north carolina usa september septembre 2017The lighthouse didn’t used to be back there. Until 1999 it was just in front of where this sign is.

You can see from the sign how the sea level has risen over the last 140 years, which prompted the romoval of the lighthouse to a safer spot.

But even though it’s so graphically laid out here, the USA Government still denies the existence of global warming and rising sea levels.

rising sea levels hatteras island north carolina usa september septembre 2017Yes, the official position of the US President is to deny clmate change, global warming and rising sea levels. Yet here on Hatteras Island the evidence is impossible to ignore.

Everywhere are signs “water on highway” and despite the absence of rain and strong winds, you can see that the sea is slowly encroaching onto the roadway.

This will all be under water in 10 years or so.

nights in rodanthe north carolina usa september septembre 2017We’ve been here before of course, and I reckoned that I would show you a photo once more of Rodanthe.

It’s significant because a couple of years after I had been here in 2005, they made a film set in Rodanthe.

And much to my surprise it really was filmed here too.

rodanthe north carolina usa september septembre 2017And the film seems to have brought unlimited tourists to visit the area, and with it the tourist attractions.

My memory of Rodanthe was that it was a quiet, sleepy place with a few tumbledown cabins and houses.

Not any more though. The tourists are out in force and have brought wads of cash with them. So the developers have cashed in.

herbert C Bonner bridge pea island north carolina usa september septembre 2017Here’s something else that is changing so dramatically too.

The Herbert C Bonner bridge was a quiet, sleepy bridge when we came by here in 2005.

Today, as the sea levels are rising, the bridge approaches are slowly being submerged and so they are constructing this huge mega-bridge right across Oregon Sound with its several miles of raised causeway approaches.

Not that it will do them much good because the rest of the Outer Banks will shortly be under water as we have seen.

From here, I don’t hang about. We miss out the Wright Brothers site at Kill Devil Hills (not Kittyhawk) just up the road because we have been there before, and eventually come off onto the mainland where I stop for lunch and fuel at, coincidentally,the same petrol station where I stopped in 2005.

strawberry moose buccaneer north carolina usa september septembre 2017But out haste doesn’t prevent us from yet another photo opportunity, does it?

This area is well-known for its pirate and privateer activity, and so Strawberry Moose decides to get in on the action.

Finding a suitable boat, he now tries to find a suitable crew, or else he will be all at sea.

We cross into Virginia just after here, and enter the city of Norfolk. And Norfolk is a nightmare to navigate.

There are two ways to go north – one is the I-95 and sit in traffic queues in Washington DC and Baltimore all day, or else cross Chesapeake Bay and cross the Delaware River and follow the New Jersey Coast.

But the Bay crossing in Norfolk, despite being one of the most famous in the whole of North America, is so badly signposted it’s unbelievable.

You drive around for hours down a succession of small street and eventually you see a small one-foot square blue-and-white sign.

Blink and you miss it.

chesapeake bay crossing virginia usa september septembre 2017Unfortunately, you can’t see it very well because there is nowhere to stop and photograph it.

For a start, it’s 23 miles long, 17 miles of which is across water, and if that’s not something of a record I’m not sure what is.

And not only that, it shortens my route by 153 kms, so the toll fee of $13:00 is a bargain when you take the cost of Strider’s fuel into consideration.

chesapeake bay crossing virginia usa september septembre 2017It’s not just a bridge either.

It crosses a busy shipping lane up to Baltimore and so in a couple of places it dives into tunnels. And these are quite long enough on their own.

And that was quite a shame because there were three or four mammoth container ships sailing up the Hampton Roads and I missed them.

On the other side of the river I put my foot down and move north towards the Maryland border.

But 18:00 looms up, I’m tired and I’m still in Virgnia. And at 18:10 the Shore Lodge Motel in Olney looms up out of the gloom.

The room is clean and comfortable and after much negotiating we agree on $70:00, incuding taxes, which is not unreasonable.

I do without tea yet again and crash out more-or-less straight away, but I’m awoken by a group of people chatting by the ice machine just outside the door.

After about a couple of hours of this, I’m beyond fed up, so I ask them if they wouldn’t mind going somewhere else to chat. Well, that wasn’t actually what I said, but it meant that.

But my sleep has gone now, and this is going to be a bad night.

Thursday 28th September 2017 – WHAT WITH …

… having crashed out so completely and for so long yesterday afternoon, it was well into the small hours this morning and I was still awake.

But I heard the alarms go off at 05:00 and 05:15 respectively but somehow it was gone 08:00 when I was up and about.

My first thought was that I can’t go anywhere in the state that I was in, so I staggered off down to the office to see about staying for an extra day. But we couldn’t thrash out a suitable deal and so I took that as my cue to be moving on.

houses on stilts north myrtle beach south carolina usa september septembre 2017After breakfast we hit the road, and back through familiar territory from 2005.

When we were up here back then, I pointed out to you that most of the houses along the seafront are up on stilts.

We’re smack in the hurricane belt here and while they might not be as devastating as elsewhere, the fact that it’s so low-lying around here means that there can be some impressive tidal surges.

atlantic coastal waterway north myrtle beach usa september septembre 2017Just inland from the coast is what they call the “Atlantic Coastal Waterway”.

It’s like a canal that’s made up of rivers, lagoons behind the sandbanks and canalised sections to join everything up, and its purpose is to allow the “snowbirds” to sail their yachts and cabin cruisers down to Florida from Washington DC and Manhattan without having to do anything dangerous like going out into the open sea.

They aren’t really “salt-water mariners” here.

north myrtle beach south carolina usa september septembre 2017I mentioned yesterday that North Myrtle Beach is probably one of the most exclusive places in the USA.

Here, the “second homes” of the rich and famous are built around little marinas branching off the Atlantic Coastal Waterway so that they can sail down here and drop anchor in their own back gardens

You can’t do that at Rhyl or New Brighton.

southport fort fisher ferry cape fear river north carolina usa september septembre 2017I’m never in a very good mood when I see a car ferry. As you know, it always makes me cross.

And so being in the vicinity of the ferry across Cape Fear River, I decide to head that way instead of taking Highway 17 North-Eastwards.

And just by way of a change, I don’t have to wait too long as they don’t go on to winter hours until Saturday. That’s not something that happens to me every day.

bald head island ferry southport north carolina usa september septembre 2017There’s another ferry from here that goes out to Bald Head Island.

Bald Head Island is really nothing more than an endless succession of sandbanks, a couple of which have been stabilised by a healthy plant growth, and is the home to a mainly-seasonal population.

Its chief claim to fame, if it was one, is that it’s an important turtle-breeding and nesting area. And that I’ve yet to find the time to visit it.

Don’t let anyone ever tell you that it was the Union Army that won the Civil War. When things were on an even basis, the South could hold its own quite comfortably.

What did for the South was the naval blockade that stopped supplies of arms and munitions reaching the fighting armies and preventing the South from exporting its produce to gain foreign exchange.

fort fisher north carolina usa september septembre 2017Wilmington was just about the last open port remaining, protected by Fort Fisher which was just over there to the left of the crane and which we visited in 2005.

When Fort Fisher fell to the Union forces in January 1865, the Union Army controlled the entrance to the port.

They took Wilmington a couple of weeks later and in the absence of any supplies at all, the Confederacy collapsed in a matter of days.

heat 98°F north carolina usa september septembre 2017By now though, the heat was ridiculous. 98°F, whatever that is in real money.

Luckily a Home Depot loomed up so I could take refuge in there and see if they had Terry’s batteries, but no joy – although the aircon was welcome.

Back on the road again, I stopped for some fuel and some of that iced slush as the heat really was oppressive, and then round about Jacksonville, found the first of the “Outer Banks Islands” – the sandbanks that protect the North Carolina Shore.

Some of them are inhabited, some connected by bridges, and some of them even have roads.

Emerald Isle is one such, and that’s my destination for tonight. There’s bound to be a motel or two along here and I eventually come across the Oak Grove Motel in Salter Path.

I’ve stayed in better places than this, but not many for $60 with kitchen and air conditioning.

First thing is to sit on my bed and … errr … relax.

Second thing is to notice the time – 21:00. Was I that relaxed?

So no tea again tonight. I just curl up down the bed and make the most of it.

And quite right too.

Sunday 5th June 2011 – HERE’S AN INTERESTING …

WOMEN ONLY WALK SIGN LADYBOWER RESERVOIR SHEFFIELD UK… notice.

I was always under the impression that the 21st Century was going to be all about doing away with sexual and gender discrimination, and promoting equality and all of this lark.

So what part in modern society does a “gender-discriminative” event such as this have to play?

And not only that, it is a blatant ageist-discriminatory event and even worse, it discriminates against single parents who are prevented by this ageism from bringing along their children – but yet no childcare or creche facilities are on offer.

The Sheffield City Council and its employees should hang their heads in shame. An event such as this has no place in modern society

ladybower reservoir sheffield UKThis was photographed at one of my habitual haunts – the Forestry Commission car park at the Ladybower Reservoir. That was where I spent Saturday night.

We’ve been here on many occasions in the past as it is one of my favourite spots. And you’ve been lucky enough to have seen the photographs in winter when there have been no leaves on the trees to obscure the view.

But I’ve known this area for much longer than that. It was here that the 1971-72 North West Schools Orienteering Championships took place and Yours Truly finished 18th – and no, there were many more than 18 entrants.

Having dropped Caroline off last night, I come over the top via Axe Edge, Buxton and Castleton to arrive here. A beautiful drive in the dark and even better in the daylight.

It was quite late by the time that I arrived so I treated myself to a lie-in (well, it IS Sunday) and then off to Towsure in Sheffield for some gas and some other assorted bits and pieces.

One thing that I wanted was a new mounting for the jockey wheel on the Sankey trailer. I want to tart that up a little this year. It’s showing its age

strawberry moose helena morley UKThis afternoon I went to Morley, just off the M62 to meet Helena, one of my friends from school. Something else for which Social Media has a lot to answer.

We haven’t seen each other in … oohhh … 38 years I suppose; so we had a lot of news to catch up on over a coffee or two.

Of course Strawberry Moose took the moment to have a photo opportunity like he does. He’s quite a hound for publicity.

Right now I’m at the Motorway Services at Washington on the M1 not too far from Newcastle-upon-Tyne heading to the seaside at Whitburn where I’ll be staying the night if all goes well.

Tomorrow His Nibs is being reunited with his sister. It’s been a good few weeks since they have seen each other and he has some things to give her.