Tag Archives: thermal spa

Sunday 9th March 2014 – WHAT A BEAUTIFUL DAY …

… and I’ve been taking full advantage of it. Not least in the Thermal Spa. And today’s verdict?

The Mudbath – same as yesterday (the mud had worn off during the night)
The Circular Shower – can’t see what this did that three friends with hosepipes couldn’t do (I, of course, don’t have three friends)
The Penetrating Shower – I was worried about this and when she said “lie face-down on the bed”, that did nothing to allay my fears. However it’s a horizontal bar of five or six very fine but high-pressure shower heads all aimed at your back.
In the jacuzzi, a rather large woman jumped in and landed right on my foot.
“I’m so sorry – was that your foot?”
“Yes it was” I replied “but don’t worry – I still have one left”.
I finished it off with a massage today. I was hoping for a young blond nymphette – I ended up with a retired former Soviet discus-thrower.
“I’ll massage your clavicles, shall I?”
“Not while I have my strength you won’t”.

chateau of arques rennes les bains aude france
Apart from that, I’ve been out and about again. This is the Chateau of Arques, about 15kms awy from here.

It dates from the aftermath of the Crusade against the Cathars and is said to control an important route used by transhumance farmers as they pass up and down to and from the higher slopes, but looking at its position here and how easily it is overlooked, it’s good that the transhumance farmers didn’t possess any cannon. A few bits of ordnance on the surrounding hills and the castle wouldn’t last long.

As it happens, it was a ruin up until about 120 or so years ago but has since had quite a decent renovation.


cardou chateau de blanchefort valley river salz peyrolles rennes les bains aude franceFrom there I went up to the village of Peyrolles. This is another place that features in all of these stories but there was nothing of interest to me.

That is except a plot of land (that wasn’t for sale, unfortunately) that had one of the best views that I have seen for a while – right up the Vallée du Salz past Cardou (on the left) and the ruins of the Chateau de Blanchefort (on the right) almost all the way to Rennes-les-Bains.


serres packhorse bridge old road rennes les bains aude franceThe modern road to Rennes-les-Bains is not the original road by any means, as I mentioned the other day.

The original road runs from Serres and goes over the river by this absolutely magnificent packhorse bridge, passing right by the foot of Cardou and then through the village of Montferrand to its final destination.


old road serres rennes les bains cardou aude franceNow, does this road remind you of anything? It ought to do, because you have seen something similar before.

Do you remember when I wrote my magnum opus about Riccarton Junction back in 2007/2008? We found the road that went down there too and there were not half some striking similarities. It made me feel quite at home, I tell you


cardou rennes les bains aude franceBut as for Cardou itself, it’s a magnificent, awe-inspiring mountain and you can see why it’s featured so much in the folklore of many of these legends.

Despite the fact that there are dozens of other mountains around, one or two of which are higher that Cardou, it’s nevertheless the dominant feature all the way around here – see it from miles around.


tomb of god jesus rock fall scree cardou rennes les bains aude franceBut one or two of the legends of Cardou are not quite so wholesome and healthy. At least two writers have insisted that Jesus is buried somewhere up there in a tunnel and that the rockfall that you see there was engineered to cover the traces of the excavation.

Mind you, neither of these two authors explained in any kind of detail how this rockfall was engineered in the days before controlled explosive. The usual historical way of doing this, by piling the rock on a large wooden platform and then burning the platform, would not have been sufficient to have produced this fall.

But no matter what method they chose, it must surely have been an interesting experience for the watchers at the foot of Cardou.


nicolas poussin bergers d'arcadie les pontils serres arques rennes les bains aude franceNow if any place is ever likely to push Rennes-le-Chateau off the top of the pile of places about which more rubbish has been talked than anywhere else on the planet, then it has to be this place.

This is a lieu-dit (or hamlet called) Les Pontils on the road between Serres and Arques and it has a quite eerie claim to fame.


nicolas poussin bergers d'arcadie les pontils serres arques rennes les bains aude franceIt may not look like much but on that flat platform over there was until 1988 a tomb that has been said by so many people to be the inspiration behind the painting Les Bergers d’Arcadie – “The Shepherds of Arcadia” – by Nicolas Poussin.

If this is so, then it’s a magnificent feat by Poussin seeing as how he painted his oeuvre in the 1630s, and yet all of the evidence available places the building of the tomb to … errr … 1903.

Someone did reply that there was an earlier, identical tomb here that was destroyed on royal orders later in the 17th Century but that begs the questions “how did they know that it was identical?” and “how did they know that this was the spot?” We’re dealing with a period before photography and GPS recording. And no-one as far as I am aware, has produced any kind of evidence to support this story of a royal order.

It’s connected with a phrase “Et In Arcadia Ego” which may people claim is bad Latin (there’s no verb) and hides an anagram or a coded message, but Latin is one of those languages where there is no pronoun (the verb is declined in order to reflect the doer of the action) but Ego is a pronoun and is used for emphasis or else in certain cases when there is no verb. And in that case it is put at the end of the sentence so the phrase would be something like “And I, in Arcadia”. That’s perfectly acceptable to say that in English and the construction is also good Latin.


grave family gelis cemetery rennes les bains aude franceBut if you want a real mystery, one that no-one has picked up, go to the cemetery in Rennes les Bains. We have four main actors in this conspiracy – Saunière of course, his two friends Boudet and Gélis, and his servant girl Denarnaud.

And what do they all have in common? The answer to that is that each one of their families has a tomb in the cemetery at Rennes-les-Bains, although not one of the actors is buried in it.

You could make up a decent conspiracy theory about this too.


grave jean vie cemetery rennes les bains aude franceBut that’s not all that’s exciting in the cemetery either. What about this?

This is a grave belonging to someone called Jean Vié and I bet he’s glad that he’s here because he must have been called some rotten names at school. His name is a phonetic expression of the pronunciation of the name of the month – janvier – January.

Not only that, the way that the date is expressed – 7 bre – is quite common masons’ shorthand for the month of September, but couple that with the emphasis of the date 1 (as in first), you could make up a date of 17 January – and that was a day upon which a lot of things happened during this mystery.

That would make a good conspiracy theory too – totally overlooked by everyone so far.


plaque commemorative abbe boudet church rennes les bains aude franceOur January man is said to be the predecessor to the Abbé Boudet and it is also said that Boudet officiated over his interment – which if he did, his appointment to the church here must have been extremely rapid.

And one thing that should be mentioned is that the January man is buried in the plot right next door to Boudet’s family plot.

Coincidence or what?


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Wednesday 5th March 2014 – THE VIEW FROM MY HOTEL BEDROOM …

view from balcony hotel gaspa ordino andorra… was quite impressive late this afternoon. Not quite right now though because the sun had disappeared behind the mountains but 5 minutes earlier it was warm and gorgeous and I’d been sitting out on the balcony reading a book.

You may be wondering why I’d been doing that but the truth is that I was totally whacked.


bus L6 ordino andorra la vellaI’ve been on the public transport again – something that I seem to be doing more and more as I go about my business. This time though, it’s the bus. Something that I’ve not used since I was in Montreal in August.

Just €1:80 it was from the hotel into Andorra la Vella, the capital, and that’s good value at any price, especially as parking for anything over 2:00 metres (Caliburn is 2:12 metres) costs the proverbial arm and leg. And being on the bus is much less stressful too.


andorra national sports stadiumI found the Andorran National Sports stadium too. Andorra were playing Moldova in a friendly so I was determined to go to watch the game but, as you might expect, the best-laid plans of mice and men quite often go gang awa’ when I’m involved. The stadium is undergoing a total rebuilding and the match was being played elsewhere. GRRRRR!

But what a stadium! I’ve seen better stadia than this in the Puy-de-Dôme league back home. I’m not surprised that it’s undergoing rebuilding, but a well-known phrase involving silk purses and sows’ ears springs readily to mind.


historic old town andorra la vellaStill, my journey wasn’t totally wasted. I spent most of the day wandering around to see what there was to see.

This is part of the old city and you can see how the place must have looked before the money started arriving. It’s a shame that there isn’t a great deal left. Everywhere you go, there are modern buildings and major construction work and it is a little depressing to see history being swept away. Although what seems to be being swept away are buildings from the 1950s and 60s and the first stage of reconstruction.


old parliament building casa de la vall andorra la vellaI found the old Parliament building – replaced by a modern multi-million Euro concrete-and-glass monstrosity three or four years ago. There was a free guided tour on offer too – in English I was told, but it turned out to be a fine example of classical Spanglish renowned the world over.

Apparently there were originally 24 members of the Parliament but this was enlarged to 28 some years ago. Now there is a proposal to enlarge the Parliament to 42 (cynics amongst you can well-speculate upon the reasons) and so a larger building is required.


old parliament building casa de la vall andorra la vellaI’m not quite sure why though – a good weekend’s work with three or four sledgehammers and a couple of acrows and we could soom make room for the required number of seats (if they really do need to enlarge the number of deputies) in the Casa de la Vall but of course, that wouldn’t make a nice shiny new office building though, would it?

I shall have to stop doing this – I’m becoming far too cynical for my own good. But then again, I blame my lifelong employment in the tourist industry and at the seat of European political power.


church st esteve andorra la vellaNext to the Casa de la Vall is the Church of St Esteve. Not Esteban as you might expect but Esteve, for one thing that I learnt here in Andorra la Velle is that the official language of the country is not Spanish but, since 1993, Catalan. No wonder I’ve been having difficulty making myself understood here.

The church dates from the 12th Century but fell victim to what in the UK would have been described as “Victorian Frightfulness”, which is a great shame.


thermal therapeutic baths andorra la vellaWe talked about modern buildings just now, and here’s one. What do you think that this might be?

My first thought was that it was a cathedral designed by someone from the Donald Gibson School of Wanton Vandalism in Coventry, but it is in fact a temple of the modern 21st Century religion – a fitness centre and thermal spa. I did go for a wander around inside but, quite frankly, it left me speechless and, as you know, that’s not something that happens very often.


old stone building andorra la vellaBut occasionally, on my travels I did come across the odd building that was worth photographing, but it wasn’t always possible to find a good viewpoint for a photograph without being cluttered up my modern buildings, road signs and vehicular traffic.

Hence, a photo like this is something of a rarity, which is a shame. But then, I do wonder just how long this building will be here.


tax free shop selling guns andorra la vellaEvery third shop in Andorra is a tax-free shop, so it seems. And while yesterday we had a photograph of how friendly and accommodating the country is to terrorist bombers, here is a photo of how friendly and accommodating the country is to mass murderers, school assassins and armed robbers. Every weapon you want, and ammunition too, on display in the windows.

But with these tax-free shops, it’s clearly illegal to label the products with their prices. Seeing a priced item in one of these places is a rarity. My Spanish isn’t up to much, my Catalan even less, and so I’m not likely to be able to ask the prices or even to engage the shopkeeper in meaningful conversation, so from a real tourist point of view, these shopkeepers are wasting their time.


solar panels andorra la vellaAndorra la Vella means “Andorra in the Valley” and so I couldn’t overlook the opportunity of taking a photo of the valley once I had found a suitable viewpoint.

But it wasn’t necessarily the valley that had caught my eye, but if you look at the roof in the very foreground of the photo, you’ll see that it’s equipped with some solar panels. We do occasionally have some sun here in Andorra la Vella – there was a bit today in fact – and it does clear the mountains across the valley.

So there you are.


So no wonder I’m whacked – especially as I also had a busy night too.

While I worked at Shearings in the summer season all those years ago, I had a winter job driving coaches for a local company in Crewe, with right miserable old boss in charge. Last night he had all of his coaches out, taking a huge group of passengers for a weekend to France (I’ve done this).

And all of his coaches too – even down to an early-1960s Harrington-bodied AEC that heaven alone knows where he must have dug that up from.

Anyway, it all descended into chaos. With these 8 or 10 coaches, we each had our passenger list? But we never picked up the people we were supposed to pick up – there were amendments, additions, crossings out until the passenger list was just hopeless. And why we were not setting out intil 14:00 onn Saturday afternoon for our weekend out was something that was totally beyond me.

It did recall a real adventure with this company when I, and another driver, were taking two coaches to Blackpool. We each had our passenger list but when I arrived at the pickups there were very few of my passengers but a load of other people who were waiting for a coach from the company for whom I was working. The other driver had arrived first and just picked up the first passengers that he could, and left me the rest.

“Nothing very important in the significant run of things” I hear you say, but in fact the coaches were doing different optional excursions – hence the two coaches – and this led to all kinds of confusion and recriminations, and the other driver making alternative arrangements with regard to employment opportunities.

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