Tag Archives: dorset inuit

Friday 14th September 2018 – WELL, WHAT A NIGHT!

*************** THE IMAGES ***************

There are over 3,000 of them and due to the deficiencies of the equipment they all need a greater or lesser amount of post-work. And so you won’t get to see them for a while.

You’ll need to wait til I return home and get into my studio and start to go through them. And it will be a long wait. But I’ll keep you informed after I return.
***************

I was off on my travels yet again, and on a couple of occasions too. Up in the High Arctic with a couple of my fellow-passengers. And I wish that I could recall what was going on in there because it was certainly exciting and also very important. I remember thinking that I need to be able to recall this when I awake

But fat chance of that!

Up on the deck there were a few icebergs floating around. Flat top and sheer sides, just as they had calved off from the glacier. The ones with more extravagant shapes have been at sea for quite a while and have had the time to erode, either by sun, rain or wave action.

And while I was admiring everything, I suddenly realised that I had yet to take my medication. So I went back down to do it.

Back up here, I was just in time to see the light as the sun came up behind the mainland of Greenland. Nothing special unfortunately – we can thank the low cloud for that.

My bad night had caught up with me yet again. We had two lectures this morning – one of the Power of Observation which was really nothing more than an egocentric (of which there are more than enough on this trip) photo exhibition, followed by a talk on tectonic plate theory and the Movement of Continents. And I fell off to sleep on a couple of occasions.

But by now we had entered the Tasiussaq Fjord. This is our destination for today. Our rather timid captain managed to find his way in up to a certain point, despite how narrow it was, and we all enjoyed the manoeuvring.

I went for my lunch and ended up chatting to three people whom I didn’t know. And they didn’t stick around very long either. I have this affect on people, don’t I?

They ran out of zodiacs to take us ashore. There was an extreme hiking party out and also a kayaking group. That latter sounded exciting but it’s been 50 years since I was last in a kayak and that was on a canal. Sea-kayaking at my time of life with my (lack of) recent experience is maybe not the way forward.

We had to wait until the first load came back and meantime, I fell asleep. And I could feel myself rising out of my body and floating upwards, and it’s been years since I’ve last had an out-of-body experience.

However we were soon off and into a really impressive fjord. It’s been a long time since I’ve ever seen anything so beautiful.

On shore, we had a little climb up to the raised beach, and then it was something of a hike across the isthmus to the other side of the headland.

Over there, there was a Thule village of sod houses – some from about 600 or 700 years ago, one reasonably modern-ish Inuit sod-house and a couple of indeterminate age in-between.

The archaeologist with our party delighted us all by recounting a lovely little story about how she went on an exploration of a village of sod huts, going from one to another to examine them, and walked into one to find that it was still occupied! And the occupant offered her a mug of tea.

There were several caches for keeping meat – one cache for each kind of meat apparently including moose, and we also discovered what might have been some kayak stands or may even have been umiak stands.

Inuit and Thule houses, and even Dorset houses depend upon flat land and a sea view. And this sea view here couldn’t be better. There was even a little beach at the foot of it, but not the kind of place where you would be in your bikini or your cozzy.

There was an alternative way back, around on the far side of the lake so Strawberry Moose and I came back that way.

I’d forgotten to say that he was with me, and indeed he had had some really good photo opportunities. At least he had a good time.

And so did I. I bet that it was the first time that Everyone Is Everybody Else has ever been played in Tasiussaq Fjord. And the timing was perfection itself.

We managed the trip back to the ship without encountering a storm today, and I came up to my room to have a shower and a clothes-washing session. And at the de-briefing, I fell asleep yet again.

It’s been a long day.

For the evening meal I was once more at the Naughty Table and we all disgraced ourselves thoroughly, much to the chagrin of a woman who had come along quite by accident. And here I am, not fit to be seen out without a keeper and even I can’t keep up with the rest of them.

We have a very early start tomorrow so the little music concert that we had with Sherman Downey didn’t last too long, and Strawberry Moose was unlucky in that he didn’t get a dance. Mind you, no-one else did. it was one of those evenings.

Back down to the cabin to put His Nibs away, only to find that for some reason or another I’d managed to lose my room key. I was also ambushed by our Entertainments Manager about my ETA for when we cross back over into Canada, whenever that might be. It’s lucky that Rhys printed out a copy for me last year. I was able to brandish that.

A few days ago, Ashley, one of the Inuit girls on board, told us all an Inuit legend about a woman who could change herself into a fox in order to taunt her lover. Of course, Liege And Lief, and in particular, Crazy Man Michael sprung immediately to mind so I invited her to listen to it. And she enjoyed it tremendously.

Now, I have work to do in order to catch up with stuff that’s dragging. And I’m in a rush because it needs to be done fairly quickly for, as I said just now, we have a very early start tomorrow.

I’ll have to get a wiggle on.

And in other news, I’ve now gone well over the 1,000 photos for this voyage. I did that the other day and forgot to mention it.

Friday 19th September 2014 – NEWFOUNDLAND

I was half-expecting to find myself on the old “Caribou” again seeing as how we were sailing from Cape Breton Island to Newfoundland. Not the old, old Caribou because that was sunk by a U-boat in 1943 but its replacement, which was out here still when I passed by in 2010.

stena traveller highlanders ferry marine atlantic newfoundland canada september 2014However, Marine Atlantic has been spending your (or, rather, the Canadian Government’s taxpayers’ money) on some new ships, such as the Highlanders, which brought us over here to Newfoundland.

But don’t be misled, because it might be new to here, but it’s not “new” by any means”. IT is in fact the old Stena Traveller, built in Russia and which formerly did the run between Hoek van Holland and Killingholme in the United Kingdom until it was retired.

She’s now had 40 feet cut out of her middle, been rewelded, and is now sailing across here on one of the roughest ferry crossings in the world.

twin hills newfoundland canada september 2014Once I’d sorted myself out I set off up the coast, passing one of the most famous sites in Newfoundland.

These are the Twin Hills, and remind me of something out of a Leslie Nielsen film. And may a Newfoundland schoolboy has doubled up in laughter at seeing them, which just goes to show that it isn’t only me with a Juvenile mind.

cape ray lighthouse newfoundland canada september 2014From here I went on to Cape Ray lighthouse.

The lighthouse itself is of no real significance (it’s the third on the site, the other two having burnt down) except that it guards the entrance to the Strait of Belle Isle, but it’s here that the first submaring telegraph cable was laid between Newfoundland and the North American mainland, as far back as 1856.

There have also been archaeological excavations here that revealed a fairly complex Dorset-Inuit settlement, a camp for hunting harp seal.

typical newfoundland scenery canada september 2014Carrying on northwards we encounter some typical Newfoundland scenery. Mountains, rivers, lakes, islands, flat plain and trees.

And not to mention the heavy rainclouds because Newfoundland is noted for its somewhat excessive number of rainy days per year – about 300 or something like that.

But considering that this is at sea level or thereabouts, you can see that the climate has changed dramatically since we crossed the Gulf of St Lawrence.

boutte de cap st george newfoundland canada september 2014This is the Boutte de Cap St George – the head of the peninsula that sticks out to guard the entrance to the bay, the name of which I can’t remember, upon which the town of Stephenville is situated.

Beautiful weather isn’t it, but you’ll see across the bay the storm that is raging. And five minutes after taking this photo I got the lot right upon my head.

mainland newfoundland canada september 2014Newfoundlanders are noted for their … well … eccentricity, so I feel quite at home here. And I would do too in a garden such as this. This is one of two in the small town of Mainland that have been imaginatively decorated, so hats off to the owners.

But as you might expect, I’m probably the only vehicle to drive down here for the last 6 months or something, yet when I stopped to take a photo here, half of the town turned out in their vehicles to create an almighty traffic jam.

It always happens to me.

Tonight I’ve found a small campsite just outside Corner Brook. It’s been a good few days since I’ve had a shower and a shave so that’s the reason that I’m not dossing in a layby. A good shower will do me the world of good.